Front oil pit tip

Front oil pit tip
	View from Krummgampental to the Vordere Ölgrubenspitze
height	3452 m above sea level A.
location	Tyrol , Austria
Mountains	Ötztal Alps
Dominance	1.46 km → Bliggspitze
Notch height	242 m ↓ Bliggschartl
Coordinates	46 ° 54 ′ 0 ″ N , 10 ° 46 ′ 0 ″ E Coordinates: 46 ° 54 ′ 0 ″ N , 10 ° 46 ′ 0 ″ E
First ascent	August 17, 1876 by Johann Praxmarer and Ignaz Schöpf with the "hut landlady of the Gepatschhaus "
Normal way	from the south over the Südscharte ( II )

The front oil pit tip is 3452 m above sea level. A. high mountain of the Kaunergrat in the Ötztal Alps in Tyrol . It is separated from the Hinteren Ölgrubenspitze by the 3044 m high Ölgrubenjoch. The Ölgrubenkopf lies in the ridge that extends south to the Ölgrubenjoch.

The Vordere Ölgrubenspitze has two peaks, the south summit at 3452 m and the lower north summit at 3451 m .

The Vordere Ölgrubenspitze is extremely rewarding because of its outstanding view, but requires mountaineering skills and mountaineering experience. Its boldly towering summit structure made of gray rock gives it an unmistakable sight.

Ascent history

The first ascent of the southern summit took place on August 17, 1876 by the mountain guides Johann Praxmarer and Ignaz Schöpf with the "hut landlady of the Gepatschhaus ". They climbed through the small Hochkar north of the Ölgrubenjoch to the ridge height south of the summit and won the summit over the southern ridge of the mountain.

The north summit was conquered on August 8, 1881 by John Percy Farrar , with Johann Praxmarer as a mountain guide, the first to climb the south summit.

Routes

The normal route leads from the Taschachhaus on the way to the Ölgrubenjoch to the plateau with the glacial lakes. There you leave the path and come up north-west through wide debris lanes. You continue along a stream to a glacier remnant, which you bypass or cross. Above it, an earthy channel leads to the ridge ( UIAA I ) and, crossing the oil pit head, into the southern notch of the Vorderen Ölgrubenspitze. When descending into the saddle, you avoid a steeper ridge drop in the western flank (rubble channels, UIAA I) or stay directly on the ridge (UIAA II).

On the ridge you now climb up to the steep, gray summit of the Ölgrubenspitze. Thereby you overcome a smaller, brittle rock step. Finally, turn left to a steep gully that descends from the summit and rises steeply in it (UIAA II, extremely fragile) to the summit with a summit cross and summit book.