Game shearing
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A deer shear is a lush fur coat made from wolf fur , sometimes also from bear fur , the hair worn outwards. The skins of the long-haired Russian arctic wolf , also known as the white wolf, were mainly used for this purpose . These furs were once a popular form of protection against the cold for sleigh rides , and in the early days of the automobile there too.
However, the meaning in the literature and thus apparently also in linguistic usage fluctuates between “loincloth made of fur” and “coarse travel coat” to “fine fur coat”.
Use, history
It was common for patients to be “prescribed” a warming deer shear for certain diseases. Georg Christoph Lichtenberg (1742–1799) said it would be “ lucky if she (the doctors) just prescribed wild shearing ”. When Joseph Victor von Scheffel (1826-1886) reads "Mrs. Aventura":
“ Your body is stretching in the infirmary,
glad that it is in the deer shearing. "
In addition to being used as a travel, carriage and hospital coat, the deer shearing also took on the task of elegant company clothing. Willibald Alexis (1798–1871) lets a “ tall man ” appear in “Isegrimm” from 1854 , “ whose sable- studded wild shear indicated the noble gentleman .”
The sable trimmings also indicate that the term game shearing was used quite generously at times, here probably for a cloth coat lined with strong fur with a sable collar, on a massive wolf coat it would look rather strange and poor despite its high value. Christian Fürchtegott Gellert (1715–1769), Friedrich Christian Laukhard (1758–1822) and Karl Immermann (1796–1840) also mention “white”, “green” and “purple” wild animals. Since such courageous coloring of fur was not common at the time, fur-lined fabric coats or perhaps fur worn with the leather on the outside should also be meant here.
As a rule, however, the term wild shearing refers to the travel coat with the fur on the outside, which you put on at home instead of the fur-lined house coat or in the office, for example when you feel unwell or when it is very cold. The Upper Austrian dialect poet Franz Stelzhamer (1802–1874) rhymes:
“ But it would be better if you were sitting
with us in a warm
pulpit , wearing wild shear
and woolen socks and were a gracious gentleman there. "
The apparently related term "Witzschoura" is mentioned in a specialist furrier book from 1914 for a new type of fur coat, the original idea of which comes from Russia. The archetype of Witzschoura must be thought of as a Barchentjacke think that was externally coated with bear or wolf.
When the use of game shearing became unnecessary due to better space heating, the term was also forgotten. The coat type was once again in great demand at the time of the first, still open cars, but with that the more modern-sounding name of the motorist coat came up. Often it was now made from raccoon fur , which was usually cheaper . American college students discovered it for themselves in the 1920 / 1930s, but now as a raccoon short coat. It was considered a status symbol (raccoon-coat-collegiate fashion). After that, a fashion era for long-haired men's furs also largely ended.
Description of the production of a game shear from 1782
“The cover, or actually the lining, is dyed full canvas or fuchsia , so it is cut by the tailor and also has to guide the furrier when cutting the fur. The fur, which in this case can also be called covering, is usually from wolf skins, but sometimes also from bear pelts. For each of the two front parts abc Fig. XVI. the furrier takes a whole wolf skin. Is this great. so he only puts heads with an excessive nath in a above ; but if the fur is small, half a hide must be attached to the top in a planned way. The head of the lower skin is in fact knocked away, that is, cut off, and the half-skin that has been planned must be sewn to it in such a way that the head falls above. The furrier also cuts every back part from a whole hide, and puts heads on top. He cuts the sleeves fg from a single fur. There are still two pieces to be noted. First of all, all parts of the deer must be cut in such a way that the league or the line of hair does not fall up but down, and this occurs with all articles of fur clothing. Because the hair going up would easily stand on end and straighten up when worn. Furthermore, secondly, all parts of the game shearing are excessively sewn together. "
etymology
The word comes from Polish, where it means wilczura ( wilˈt̯ʈ͡ʂura ), derived from "wilk" (pl., Wolf). So it is with Karl Friedrich Kretschmann (1738-1799) still according to the original meaning: " The tiger is processed into valances , the bear must blankets and Müffe give the wolf Wild Churen, the rhinoceros coach belt. "
In 1871 Karl Weigand was probably the first to suspect that the word Wildschur, which corresponds to the German language feeling, originally had nothing to do with game and Schur. Until then, no one had apparently doubted the German origin of the word. Around 1900 the origin from Polish is recorded and explained in more detail by Ludwig Sütterlin in the German dictionary and by Friedrich Kluge in his etymological dictionaries.
The Polish original word seems to have found its way into Western European fashion in a further modified form, see → Witgchouras . In a book about fur fashion, a “witzschoura” from 1810 is shown, which, however, has little in common with game shearing. The lady wears a sleeveless cape that comes down over her hips and is lined with ermine fur or imitation ermine and broadly trimmed. Other sources derive witzschoura as coming from Russian, denoting a fur coat.
According to Adelung's dictionary, the word in the Braunschweig Chronicle, rhyming around 1300, is in Leibnitzens Script. Th. 3, p. 116. B. 86, “Wintschur”. This information was obviously not available to Bruno Schier in 1950. He states that the word Wildschur is quite young, he mentions the "Journey of Sophia from Memel to Saxony" by Johann Timotheus Hermes (1738–1821) as the first mention . Since Hermes was an East German and spent his entire life there, Schier assumes that he was introducing a special East German word into German literature.
According to the Duden, it is “ folk etymology based on German Wild u. Schur ".
Further meaning
The Greeks reported under the name "Zeira" (ancient Greek) of a cloak-like covering used by the Thracians and Arabs , which was held together with a belt. This "Zeira" was also translated as Wildschur.
See also
swell
- Brockhaus' Kleines Konversations-Lexikon , fifth edition, volume 2. Leipzig 1911., p. 984, here online .
- Adelung: Grammatical-Critical Dictionary of High German Dialect , Volume 4. Leipzig 1801, p. 1547 here online .
Individual evidence
- ↑ New venue for the arts and crafts , 130. tape, Ch. H. Schmidt's furrier Art The furrier art, or thorough instruction ... . Weimar 1844, p. 174
- ↑ Workshops of the modern arts , chapter Der Kirschner . 1762; Halle, Berlin, p. 310.
- ↑ a b c Bruno Schier: On the word and factual history of the Wildschur . In: The fur industry , XX. Volume 5/6, 1950, Hermelin-Verlag Dr. Paul Schöps, pp. 13-16
- ↑ Bruno Schier, primary source German dictionary , 14th vol., 2nd department, Leipzig 1913, col. 120
- ↑ Bruno Schier, primary source Franz Stelzhammer, Collected Works . Stuttgart 1855, III, p. 272
- ^ H. Werner: The furrier art. Publishing house Bernh. Friedr. Voigt, Leipzig 1914, pp. 188, 195.
- ↑ Anna Municchi: Ladies in Furs 1900-1940 . Zanfi Editori, Modena 1992, pp. 53-57 (English) ISBN 88-85168-86-8
- ^ PN Sprengel's arts and crafts in tables . 2nd collection, 2nd edition, Verlag der Buchhandlung der Realschule, Berlin 1782, p. 456.
- ↑ Bruno Schier , primary source Karl Friedrich Kretschmann, Complete Works . Leipzig 1784–1799, VI, p. 165.
- ↑ Bruno Schier, primary source Karl Weigand: German dictionary , 2nd volume, Gießen 1871, p. 1083
- ↑ Bruno Schier, primary source Friedrich Kluge: Etymological dictionary of the German language , 11th edition, ed. by Alfred Götze, Berlin 1934, p. 690
- ^ Elisabeth Ewing: Fur in Dress . BT Batsford Ltd., London 1981, p. 93. ISBN 0-7134-1741-2 . Caption: Fur-lined and fur-trimmed witzschoura, from an Ackermann print ( Rudolph Ackermann ?) Of 1810, the fur either real or imitation ermine, with black spots. Victoria and Albert Museum.
- ↑ www.lexikus.de Max von Boehn: The mode - people and fashion in the nineteenth century. 1790 to 1817 . Last accessed April 11, 2012.
- ↑ Bruno Schier, primary source Johann Timotheus Hermes: Sophien's journey from Memel to Saxony . Leipzig 1769 to 1773, II, p. 158. Quote: "When you see a pleasant and amiable man in a dressing gown or a deer."