Aiguille du Chardonnet
Aiguille du Chardonnet | ||
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Aiguille du Chardonnet (left) and Aiguille d'Argentière , from the Aiguille des Grands Montets (west) |
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height | 3824 m | |
location | France | |
Mountains | Mont Blanc massif | |
Coordinates | 45 ° 58 '8 " N , 7 ° 0' 5" E | |
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First ascent | R. Fowler, M. Balmat and M. Ducroz on September 20, 1865 | |
Normal way | North flank and west ridge ( AD , ice up to 40 °, places III in the rock ) | |
Aiguille du Chardonnet (left) and Aiguille d'Argentière , |
The Aiguille du Chardonnet is a 3824 m high mountain in the Mont Blanc massif . The summit is located in the French department of Haute-Savoie, about 500 meters from the border between Switzerland and France .
location
The Aiguille du Chardonnet is located in the eastern Mont-Blanc massif about five kilometers east of Argentière . The mountain range is surrounded by several glaciers: the Glacier d'Argentière runs to the south-west, the Glacier du Tour to the north and the Glacier de Saleina to the east . The immediate southern neighbor of the summit is the Aiguille d'Argentière , which is separated from the Aiguille du Chardonnet by the Col du Chardonnet ( 3323 m ). To the south, this chain stretches over the Tour Noir to Mont Dolent . North of the Aiguille du Chardonnet is the Aiguille du Tour .
The actual summit forms a ridge running from east to west. This ridge descends to the south in 600 to 800 meters high rock faces crisscrossed by ridges. To the north, the mountain has a steep, glaciated flank, which is interrupted by rocky ridges and which slopes down to the Glacier du Tour.
Climbing opportunities
The normal route leads over the westernmost part of the north flank to the west ridge, which leads over the pre-summit to the main summit. The difficulties are AD , ice up to 40 °, places III in the rock . The starting point is the Refuge Albert 1er ( 2706 m ) or the Cabane du Trient ( 3170 m ). The route was opened on August 1, 1879 by Percy-W. Thomas first climbed with guides Josef Imboden and Josef Marie Lochmatter from St. Niklaus in the Swiss canton of Valais.
A classic combined tour is the Forbesgrat (east ridge) with difficulties in the ice up to 53 ° and rock III , total AD.
The best-known route through the north face is the north spur, first climbed by A. Migot in 1929, also called the Migot rib after the first climber (difficulty D ).
Several challenging routes lead through the complicated structure of the southern flank.