Cima d'Ambiéz
| Cima d'Ambiéz | ||
|---|---|---|
| height | 3102 m slm | |
| location | Trentino , Italy | |
| Mountains | Brenta Group | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 8 '55 " N , 10 ° 52' 31" E | |
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| Type | Felsberg | |
| rock | tied main dolomite | |
| First ascent | September 5, 1880 by the Englishmen George Gaskell and M. Holzmann led by R. Kaufmann von Pinzolo. | |
| Normal way | from the Agostinihütte over the south ridge | |
The Cima d'Ambiéz is a 3102 meter high mountain in the southern part of the Brenta Group , a mountain range in the southern Limestone Alps in the Italian province of Trento . It is primarily a popular destination for climbers because of its impressive, very steep east face, around 350 meters high, and its easy accessibility . The mountain sends pronounced ridges to the north and south. The Cima d'Ambiéz was first climbed on September 5, 1880 by the English alpinists George Gaskell and M. Holzmann, led by R. Kaufmann from the northwest.
Surroundings
Together with the 3173 meter high Cima Tosa and the Crozzon di Brenta (3135 m), the mountain forms a continuous mountain range that looks very dominant to the west . West below the Cima d'Ambiez is extending glacier Vedretta Val d'Agola to an altitude of 3000 meters, the east is the smaller Vedretta d'Ambiez , which over the Firnrinne Bocca d'Ambiez , also a path transition, with the west of the Cima Tosa lying connected to the Vedretta dei Camosci . Neighboring mountains in the north are the Cima Tosa and the Crozzon the Brenta, in the east is the Punta dell'Ideale with an altitude of 2950 meters. To the west the area drops into the Val Nardis and to the northwest into the Val d'Agola . Nearest towns are in the northwest, the about 8 km in a straight line away Madonna di Campiglio in Campigliotal containing 7.5 km to the east Molveno and less than 9 km south to San Lorenzo in Banale .
Bases and routes
The way of George Gaskell and his companions in 1880 led from Pinzolo in the northwest through the Val d'Agola and over the Vedretta d'Agola glacier up to the Bocca dei Camosci at 2,784 meters. From there, they went through the Firnrinne that the AMBIEZ from west to south by the Denti d'Ambiez ( Ambiezzähne separates), and reached the summit via the south-west side. It took them about 6½ hours for the tour.
Since the Cima d'Ambiéz consists of solid, well-grippy and stepped rock, a variety of routes lead to the summit. The normal route given in the literature, i.e. the easiest ascent, starts at the Rifugio Agostini at 2,410 meters in the south of the mountain. It runs over one of the rock bands characteristic of the Brenta on the south-east face and then over the south ridge in an easy climb of difficulty UIAA II to the summit in two hours. Further bases in the extensive area of the Cima Tosa are the Rifugi Tosa and Pedrotti (2491 m) in the east, the Rifugio Brentei (2182 m) in the northeast and the Rifugio XII Apostoli (2489 m) in the west , which are linked by a network of via ferrata .
In 1909, the first serious guide was climbed through the east face, the main Lömpel route (named after its first climbers) in today's UIAA grade IV. In 1939 Fox and Stenico opened a route through the southeast face in UIAA grade V +, and in 1941 the Aste-Salice route in UIAA grade VI- was added. Up until the 1980s, there were more and more enjoyable climbs on the rock of the Cima d'Ambiez.
Map and literature
- Karl Schulz in Eduard Richter (ed.): The development of the Eastern Alps, III. Volume , Berlin 1894
- Heinz Steinkötter: Alpine Club Leader Brenta Group , Munich 1988, ISBN 3-7633-1311-7
- Alpine Club Map 1: 25,000, sheet 51, Brenta group
Individual evidence
- ↑ George Gaskett in: The Alpine Journal , Volume X, London 1881
- ^ Heinz Steinkötter: Alpine Club Leader Brenta Group , Munich 1988