High violin
| High violin | ||
|---|---|---|
 High violin from the Hundsbachalm (from the northwest) |
||
| height | 3393 m above sea level A. | |
| location | Tyrol , Austria | |
| Mountains | Ötztal Alps | |
| Dominance | 7.8 km → Verpeilspitze | |
| Notch height | 456 m ↓ Northern Pollesjoch | |
| Coordinates | 47 ° 0 ′ 19 ″ N , 10 ° 54 ′ 28 ″ E | |
|
||
| First ascent | 1853 during surveying work under the direction of Captain Ganahl | |
| Normal way | from the southwest of the Opel hut from | |
The Hohe Geige is a mountain in the Ötztal Alps in the Austrian state of Tyrol at an altitude of 3393 m above sea level. A. , according to other information 3395 m above sea level. A. It is the highest point in the Geigenkamm , a mountain range that runs from south to north. To the north, east and west, the mountain sends pronounced ridges over which climbing routes lead.
Location and surroundings
The high violin is located in the center of the violin ridge that runs from north to south. It is flanked by glaciers to the north and east . To the west of the north ridge, the Rötkarlferner stretches to just below the summit and to the east, the twice as extensive, around two kilometers long, Outer Pirchlkarferner extends at a right angle from north to east. The Inner Pirchlkarferner lies south of the east ridge, known as the Outer Wilde Schneide . Neighboring mountains in the north ridge are the Hohe Kogel with 3296 meters, in the east the 3021 meter high Fotzenkarstange and in the south the Ampferkogel (3186 m). The western flank of the Hohe Geige falls into the Pitztal , the east into the Pollestal , a western side valley of the Ötztal near the village of Huben near Längenfeld . The next important place is Planggeross , a district of the municipality of St. Leonhard in Pitztal , which is about 3.5 kilometers as the crow flies southwest of the Hohe Geige.
Tourist development
The Rüsselsheimer Hütte (former Chemnitzer Hütte ), located at an altitude of 2323 meters , east of Planggeross, serves as a base for ascent of the Hohe Geige . From there, the normal route , the easiest ascent, leads through the southwest flank of the mountain in about 3½ hours to the summit cross of the Hohe Geige. An alternative ascent leads over the west ridge in 4 hours from the hut to the summit. The west ridge can be reached via a hiking trail at the Gabinten lookout point (2650 m). The ridge is mostly coarse and only exceeds the UIAA I level in the upper part. Some exposed passages and climbing areas (UIAA II to III) are insured there. Objectively, the west ridge is safer to climb and is increasingly replacing the normal route as a standard ascent. Another alternative is the so-called ice path in combination with the north ridge. Here the ascent leads over the north-facing Rötkarferner to the north ridge. Depending on the season, the rest of the ascent is combined through rock and ice. The difficulty does not exceed UIAA II on the last section of the ridge.
The Hohe Geige was climbed for the first time in 1853 as part of surveying work under the direction of Captain Ganahl. During the first tourist ascent in 1873, Theodor Petersen and the mountain guide C. Bezien reached the summit from the Vorderen Pollesalm (1776 m) to the east of the mountain via the Inner Pirchlkarferner. The north ridge was climbed for the first time in 1887. In 1935 the east ridge, called the Äussere Wilde Schneide , was conquered for the first time in seven hours and in some difficult climbing in UIAA grade III.
Literature and map
- Walter Klier : Alpine Club Guide Ötztaler Alpen , Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2006, ISBN 3-7633-1123-8
- Alpine Club Map 1: 25,000, sheet 30/5, Ötztal Alps - Geigenkamm
Individual evidence
- ↑ austrianmap.at ( BEV 1: 50.0000)
- ↑ a b Walter Klier: Alpine Guidebook Oetztal Alps . Bergverlag Rother , Munich 2006, ISBN 3-7633-1123-8 , pp. 168-171
