Indienne
With Indienne ( French Indienne , English, Indian ' Indianshirting , formerly pressure perkal or chintz is called an original hand-painted with Indian-exotic motifs, later industrially printed) Kattungewebe .
history
The painting of cotton fabrics has been practiced in India since the 2nd millennium BC. Chr. Developed and required both high artistic skills and a very specialized technical knowledge in dealing with the colors used. Merchants from Holland , Denmark , England and Portugal imported the goods into Europe in the 17th century. In the culturally leading France, the Indian fabrics ( French toiles indiennes ) got their name. There they found decorative use as a luxury item as covers for seating furniture or as wallpaper. The colorful cotton fabrics owed their great popularity to the fact that they were much easier to care for than silk , despite their splendor . In addition, they were more comfortable to wear than linen, for example, at a relatively low price . Added to this was the preference for chinoise designs or for chinoiseries in general , which emerged in Europe at this time and lasted until the end of the 18th century .
With the development of the textile industry in the second half of the 18th century, the demand for inexpensive cloths increased , especially for aprons and simple house and children's clothing . With the expansion of industrial cotton processing and the refinement of machine dyeing techniques , Indiane manufactories emerged in Europe. Armenian merchants opened the first manufacturing facility in 1640 in Marseille , England and Holland followed in the 1670s. In addition, the motifs were adapted more to European tastes: European plants appeared in Indian scenes. Until the 1790s, most of the indiennes came from India.
In France, in particular, the traditional producers and suppliers of (silk) fabrics and clothes gradually experienced considerable business losses as a result of the new mass product. At their insistence, Louis XIV initiated the protection of the French textile industry, which was mainly focused on the production of silk goods, and in 1686 had the production and import of cotton fabrics prohibited. The same thing happened in England from 1700 to 1774. On the one hand, this caused an increasing surreptitious trade with the indiennes, which are still coveted, and, on the other hand, the establishment of an indiennes economy in neighboring French states. At the end of the 18th century, eight to ten thousand people were working in the indiennes factories in Switzerland. The largest factories had several hundred employees, mostly seasonal workers, as bleaching and drying in the open air was not possible in winter. After the opening of the French market in 1759, the specialist knowledge that had meanwhile been built up all around led to a large number of foreign management staff working in France.
Sun founded Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf 1759 in Jouy-en-Josas the largest and most important French factory for printed fabrics in Indienne style. The factory, at times the largest in Europe, survived the turmoil of the French Revolution and the Napoleonic Wars and was not closed until 1843. Toile-de-Jouy is still a synonym for indiennes in France. In German-speaking countries, the first indienne factories were established in Constance and in the Swiss canton of Aargau . Geneva entrepreneurs, who had fled the patrician counterrevolution in 1782 , ran an indienne factory in the former island monastery during their exile in Constance . In the cloister of today serves as a hotel building is to a mural to be seen. In the area around Möriken-Wildegg in Switzerland, numerous calico printing plants had settled in the second half of the 18th century. The company Laué & Cie was still operating an indienne factory in the 19th century. Another center of European indienne production in the 18th and early 19th centuries was the area around Lake Neuchâtel and Lake Biel . In the Principality of Neuchâtel at the time, in particular, there were several large indienne factories.
The indiennes became most widespread in the 1780s, when they became affordable for large parts of the population. They were part of a globalized trade: Indian workers mass-produced goods for the European market, as European production methods took hold in India. Cotton and cotton towels were transported to Europe from Asia and America. Last but not least, the finished indiennes served as barter and trade goods in the Atlantic triangular trade .
Even today, the best indienne fabrics come from France. The production center is in Rouen . A specialty was indienne from Marseille , which - colored with natural colors obtained from madder - was kept exclusively in red tones. Another center of the indienne-making with large-flowered patterns and scenes from mythology was Nancy .
See also
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ a b Brockhaus Picture Conversations Lexicon . tape 2 . Leipzig 1838, p. 587 ( online ).
- ↑ a b H. Schöpfer: History of the wallpaper manufacture in France . In: Journal for Swiss Archeology and Art History . 1990, ISSN 0044-3476 ( online ).
- ^ Ingrid Ehrensperger: The indienne printing house in the three-lake region in the 18th and 19th centuries ; Pierre Caspard: Au temps des indiennes: Neuchâtel au milieu du monde in: Elisabeth Crettaz-Stürzel and Chantal Lafontant Valloton: Sa Majesté en Suisse , Neuchâtel 2013, ISBN 978-2940489-31-2 , p. 252
- ↑ Gilles Forster: Les indiennes de traite: une contribution neuchâteloise à l'essor del'économie atlantique in: Elisabeth Crettaz-Stürzel and Chantal Lafontant Valloton: Sa Majesté en Suisse , Neuchâtel 2013, ISBN 978-2940489-31-2 , p. 270