Lene Gammelgaard

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Lene Gammelgaard (born December 18, 1961 ) is a Danish author , keynote speaker , motivational speaker , lawyer , journalist , psychological advisor , mountaineer and expedition guide . Her book 'The Final Challenge: How I Survived the Tragedy on Mount Everest' , originally 'Climbing High', was published by HarperCollins in 1998 and has sold over a million copies to date. The work gained worldwide attention because it first contained personal accounts of the tragic disaster on Mount Everest in 1996 . At that time, more than 30 climbers were surprised by a change in weather while trying to climb the summit of Mount Everest. Eight climbers, including experienced guides like Scott Fischer and Rob Hall , did not survive.

Gammelgard lives in Denmark . Until 1992 she was married to the mountaineer Soren Smidt. Through her work as a keynote speaker and adventurer, she has traveled to countless countries. She also advises companies as a motivational speaker .

She was the 35th woman and the first Scandinavian to climb Mount Everest . She reached the summit via the southeast ridge on May 10, 1996 as a participant in the Sagarmatha Environmental Expedition led by Scott Fischer . The 1996 expedition has received enormous attention in the history of ascent of Mount Everest to this day. ' The Final Challenge: How I Survived the Tragedy on Mount Everest ' is her best-selling book and has been translated into 13 languages. In the 2015 movie Everest , her role was played by the Danish actress Charlotte Bøving .

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Early life

Lene Gammelgaard Nielsen was born on December 18, 1961 in Copenhagen to Kirsten Nielsen, social therapist, and Helge Nielsen, CEO. Because of the father's career, the family experienced several changes of residence. This enabled her to get to know different life concepts and different parts of the world at an early age.

At the age of 22, she had to cope with the painful loss of one of her brothers, who died in a tragic accident. This stroke of fate resulted in an intense confrontation with the subject of the unpredictability and injustice of human existence.

Career

At the age of 20, Lene Gammelgaard hired as a sailor, sailed through the Caribbean and crossed the Atlantic.

In 1982 she completed her legal training at the University of Copenhagen, specializing in tax and corporate law. She worked full time as a financial analyst at Erik Moller's Efter Successere, at the time Denmark's largest stock brokerage company, and studied on the side. This was followed by a period of rest in 1988, characterized by a three-month sailing trip from New Zealand to Gibraltar as co-navigator of a Nautical 42. She then worked as a purchasing manager with a legal focus at the Pinetta Textile Company. She also supported Greenpeace as a project manager and activist. 1991 followed a supplementary study at the Danish School of Media and Journalism .

At that time Gammelgaard discovered her passion for mountaineering. She spent three months on a climbing and trekking expedition in the Dhaulagiri massif and practiced her first attempt at climbing Island Peak in Nepal. During this tour she also met Scott Fischer. He would later become her close friend and mentor.

In 1993 she studied psychotherapy using the American twelve-step program . Her focus was on addiction therapy and the development of life-changing behavioral patterns based on personal responsibility. She co-founded two institutions for addiction therapy and behavioral research and developed and directed a therapy program with a focus on the mental attitude towards self-dependent behavior.

In 1995 she set out on an expedition to the Karakoram in Pakistan with Scott Fischer and Mountain Madness . They reached the Broad Peak Base Camp and the Gondogoro La Pass at an altitude of 5614 meters. Scott Fischer was invited to climb Mount Everest with him in the spring of 1996. On May 10, 1996, Gammelgaard reached the summit as part of the memorable expedition, in which a bad weather onset killed many participants, including Scott Fischer. Lene Gammelgaard was among the survivors. These tragic events were followed by a phase of media attention.

The following year she went on a reconnaissance trip to Peru , Chile and Argentina and led an expedition to Kilimanjaro . This was followed by another educational trip and a film documentary about Greenland .

In 1998, Lene Gammelgaard led twelve Danes up Kilimanjaro as an expedition leader. In the same year the bestseller 'Climbing High' was published, followed a year later in Denmark by her book 'Håbets Sejr - The Victory of Hope' .

She lived in Nepal for 14 months to officially adopt her daughter.

In 2008, ' Storm over Everest ', a documentary by US filmmaker David Breashears, was released . The film portrays the climbers who were trapped in the death zone of Mount Everest in May 1996 . In the same year Lene was presented with the Mt. Everest Golden Jubilee Medal.

Ten years after the spring 1996 events, Gammelgaard published To the Summit and Safe Return. In this book she reports on her personal experiences on Everest.

She currently runs her own consulting company, Lene Gammelgaard Consult, ApS. She also works as a lecturer , speaker and author.

Works

  • The last challenge , 1999, Munich: Econ-und-List-Taschenbuch-Verlag. ISBN 3-612-26694-2 .
  • To The Summit and Safe Return: A strategy for personal and professional fulfillment, 2016, CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform. ISBN 978-1-5397-0446-1

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. EverestHistory.com: Lene Gammelgaard. In: www.everesthistory.com. Retrieved December 9, 2016 .
  2. NOLS - Sagarmatha Environmental Expedition. (No longer available online.) In: www.nols.edu. Archived from the original on March 26, 2016 ; Retrieved December 9, 2016 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.nols.edu