Michel Darbellay

Michel Darbellay (born August 21, 1934 in Orsières ; † June 11, 2014 in Martigny ) was a mountaineer from Switzerland .

Career

Darbellay grew up with seven siblings and began climbing and mountaineering at an early age. He later worked as a mountain guide and ski guide and rose to become the technical director of Swiss mountain guide training. After his active mountaineering days, he and his wife opened a holiday camp for children and then ran a campsite in La Fouly .

His first single ascent of the Eiger north face in August 1963 within just 18 hours is considered to be his greatest alpine achievement . At the end of July even the top alpinist Walter Bonatti was forced to retreat in a solo attempt , other soloists such as Diether Marchart , Adolf Derungs or Adi Mayr had fatal accidents.

It is also known for its fast climbing times on famous alpine walls. In 1960 he completed the Petit Dru south west pillar (Bonattip pillar) in just twelve hours, in 1961 the Aiguille Noire west face in six and a half hours and in 1962 the Matterhorn north face in six hours.

He climbed the Matterhorn north face again in 1965 and the Eiger north face again in 1975 with a rope partner. In 1967/1968 he and Alessandro Gogna made the first winter ascent of the famous Piz Badile north-east face. He had further successes on the Civetta Northwest Face, the Grandes Jorasses Walker Pillar, the Aiguille du Midi South Face and the Grand Capucin East Face .

In 1964 he took part in an expedition to Nepal , where he took part in unsuccessful first ascent attempts on Dorje Lapka (6,966 m) and Ganchempo (6,378 m). In 1967 he made several first ascents in Greenland and in 1969 led an expedition to Mount McKinley . In 1969 he was in Alaska .

Selection of first ascents

• North face and east face of the Petit Clocher du Portalet
• Northeast face of Pointe Walker on the Grandes Jorasses
• North-east face of the Ponte Volluz
• North face of the Petit Grépillon
• Northeast face of Piz Badile in winter
• Winter crossing of the Aiguilles Dorées
• East face of Mont Dolent in winter
• North pillar at the Tête Biselx at the Aiguille Dorée with subsequent crossing

Web links

• Michel Darbellay 1934-2014
• The complete alpinist: mountain guide Michel Darbellay
• Michel Darbellay in the Historical Alpine Archives of the Alpine Clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol (temporarily offline)