velvet
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Velvet , also known as Samm (e) t (from ancient Greek ἑξάμιτος hexamitos , German 'six- thread ' ), is a fabric with an overlying, incorporated thread pile . The historical development of velvet has always been closely connected with silk weaving , at the beginning especially with medieval samit , a multi-colored, patterned silk fabric without pile.
Manufacturing
Another weft or warp thread system is incorporated into a linen or twill weave base fabric, which is why we speak of weft velvet (also known as velvet ) or warp velvet. This pile warp in warp velvet or the pile weft / pile weft in weft velvet forms pile knobs or loops / loops ( floats ) over the base fabric, which are cut open at the end of the manufacturing process and then result in the characteristic fiber pile on the right side of the fabric. In warp velvet, a distinction is made between rod velvet , which is made with pulling or cutting rods, and double velvet . Caffas were also made as rod velvet with draw looms in the 17th and 18th centuries .
Velvet was initially made from silk (natural silk velvet), today cotton velvet or chemical silk velvet is common.
properties
Velvet differs from velor and plush in the length of the pile . When it comes to velvet, it is the shortest (a maximum of two to three millimeters long), so velvet feels soft, but relatively the hardest of the three. Due to the pile, velvet has a grain direction that causes the fabric to look and feel differently with the grain or against the grain. The direction of the line must therefore be taken into account when processing.
Panne velvet (or mirror velvet) is a shiny, reflective velvet. It gets its look by pressing it flat or ironing it flat ("pannier") in any pattern. Panne velvet is used for women's outerwear, skirts, scarves or accessories.
history
Asia
Figure velvet brocades are used in Persia from 1587 for clothing fabrics and for interior design. Velvets of the Ottoman Empire (1413–1566) were exported to Europe on a large scale. Velvet weaving in China developed from 1644.
Europe
Velvet became hugely popular in Europe since the late Middle Ages and was later a major fabric type of the Renaissance . Warp velvet is proven in Italy in the early 14th century and was made in Venice , Florence , Genoa and Milan . In 1474 15,000 velvet weavers and other workers were employed in Milan. During this time it was already being used as an upholstery fabric, for example for pillows; also for sumptuous robes and wall covers. From the first half of the 17th century, France tried to break Italy's monopoly in velvet production. Claude Dangon from Lyon invented a method in 1605 by which velvet could be patterned in large repeats . Flemish weavers introduced velvet weaving to England in the second half of the 16th century. Main centers were Spitalfields , later Manchester , there with printed cotton velvet. Manchester also among other native Manchester called corduroy , which is mainly made from cotton.
In the Netherlands and Germany the velvet industry developed in the first half of the 18th century, for example in Leipzig since 1700, in Chemnitz, Meißen, Zwickau, Berlin, Potsdam and Krefeld around 1721. The Lower Rhine was for a long time the European center for production elaborate and precious fabrics made of velvet and silk .
The mechanical weaving mill in Linden near Hanover produced the well-known "Lindener Samt" (Velvet) from the middle of the 19th century.
Flock velvet (faux velvet)
Flocked velvet imitates real velvet through flocking by gluing short fiber flakes onto a base fabric.
jobs
literature
- Paul-August Koch, Günther Satlow: Large Textile Lexicon. Specialized lexicon for the entire textile industry. Volume L – Z, Deutsche Verl.-Anstalt, Stuttgart 1966, pp. 281–282
- Thomas Meyer to Capellen: Lexicon of tissues. Technology, ties, trade names. Deutscher Fachverlag, 4th edition, Frankfurt am Main 2012, ISBN 978-3-86641-258-3
- Brigitte Tietzel: History of the art of weaving. Technical basics and artistic traditions. DuMont Buchverlag, Cologne 1988, ISBN 3-7701-1828-6 , pp. 145–196
- Otto von Falke: Art history of silk weaving . 4th edition Tübingen: Wasmuth 1951.
Web links
Individual evidence
- ^ Johann Georg Krünitz : Economic Encyclopedia or general system of the state, city, house and agriculture. Volume 7. Berlin 1776, keyword "Caffa" ( online version )
- ↑ Alois Kießling and Max Matthes: Textile specialist dictionary. Verlag Schiele & Schoen, Berlin 1993, ISBN 9783794905461