Caffa (fabric)
In the 17th and 18th centuries, two different types of fabrics were referred to as caffa or kaffa .
Flat weave
Outside Germany Caffas were painted with different colors and patterns colorful, plain woven cotton fabric , similar Kattunen (here Calicot or shirting ) that in 1605 the East Indies were made and especially of Bengal were acted out.
Caffard
The so-called Caffard even Cafard it was different kinds of tissue that has been made in France, with a chain of silk - or Florettgarn and a shot of plain linen or linen zwirn , Floretseide, camel hair , wool or cotton , so-called satin Caffard or damas cafard , d. H. half silk "false" damask . In the so-called Caffard de Village , the warp was made of linen, the weft was made of wool. The name Cafard , or “hypocrite” in French, results from the fact that the fabric pretends to be of higher quality than it actually is.
Pile fabric
In Germany, floral patterned were as Caffas plushes and velvets traded that in the 17th century, especially in Hamburg and later in Gera by Caffamachern were produced. Also, Offenbach , Hanau , Berlin, Frankfurt, Linz , Usingen and Bohemian factories were in the late 18th and early 19th centuries producer of this tissue. In France, in the area around Lille , very coarse grades were made under the name of caffa de bois .
Manufacturing
In addition to rod velvet, in which the pattern chain is lifted by the step connection of the loom , Caffa was also made with an attachment similar to damask weaving , in which pulling or fiddling boys pull out the harness cords for lifting the pattern chain from the side by hand.
A distinction was made between caffas with cut and uncut pile . Only the floral design formed a protruding pile. A piece of fabric was made 5/8 or 7/8 cubits (based on the Leipzig cubit of 0.566 meters about 40 or 50 centimeters) wide and 50 to 60 cubits (about 28-34 meters) long.
Caffas in which the pattern was not woven could be printed , but also tie-dye .
material
The base fabric and pile of the caffas were mostly made of wool, in Bohemia sometimes also from camel hair. It was a very coarse pile fabric with 600–700 twisted warp threads per fabric width made of washed wool, the fat wool of the pile was twice as fine as the warp material.
Caffas were made in many different colors; but mostly they were the most popular in their scarlet red base color. The dyeing was done after weaving.
use
The light, yet warm fabric could be processed into garments (e.g. vests for men) and worn in winter and summer. Caffas were probably mainly used for pillows and covers e.g. B. in carriages, or used as upholstery fabric on chairs and sofas .
literature
- Thomas Meyer to Capellen: Lexicon of tissues. Technology, ties, trade names . German specialist publisher, 4th, fundamental. act. u. exp. Ed., Frankfurt am Main 2012, ISBN 978-3-86641-258-3 , keyword "Caffa"
- Johann Georg Krünitz : Economic Encyclopedia or general system of the state, city, house and agriculture. Volume 7. Berlin 1776. Keyword "Caffa" ( online version )
Individual evidence
- ↑ Gottfried Christian Bohn u. Gerhard Philipp Heinrich Norrmann : Waarenlager, or, dictionary of product and commodity knowledge: The well-experienced businessman, second division, Volume 1 . Verlag CE Bohn, 1805, pp. 293-294 online
- ^ Library of the Literary Association in Stuttgart, Volumes 56–58, 1860, p. 255.
- ^ Johann Georg Krünitz : Economic Encyclopedia or general system of the state, city, house and agriculture . Volume 7. Berlin 1776. Keywords “Atlas” and “Damast” ( online version ).
- ^ A b Albert F. Jöcher: Complete encyclopedia of goods science in all its branches: Containing all articles of the material or specialty, drug, dyed, delicatessen or Italian trade; of the iron, short and junk goods, wood and wooden goods trade; of manufactured goods or cut and stocking goods […] Volume 1 . Verlag Basse, 1839, p. 227 Online .
- ↑ Small conversation lexicon in five volumes: Short but clear explanation of everything worth knowing in the field of religion, philosophy, history [...]. Volume 1. Herder Verlag, 1854, p. 751 online .
- ↑ a b c d e Gottfried Christian Bohn u. Gerhard Philipp Heinrich Norrmann: Waarenlager, or, dictionary of product and commodity knowledge: The well-experienced businessman, second division, Volume 1 . Verlag CE Bohn, 1805, p. 293 Online
- ^ Johann Heinrich Gottlob von Justi: Complete treatise from the Manufacturen und Fabriken, Volume 2. Verlag Rothenschen Buchhandlung, 1761, p. 54 online