Polenta e osei

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"Polenta e osei dolce" - different sizes
torresano
Polenta with roasted pigeons

Polenta e osei ( pronunciation : [ poˈlenta e ɔˈzɛ: i ]) ( Italian polenta and birds ) is the name of two culinary specialties from Italy . Polenta e osei salata ( Italian salted polenta and birds ) is the original dish from Veneto , consisting of roasted wild birds with polenta . Polenta e osei dolce ( Italian sweet polenta and birds ), on the other hand, is a dessert from Bergamo that visually imitates the meat dish, but contains neither meat nor polenta.

designation

In the Venetian dialect , birds ( Italian uccelli ) are called osei or oxei . Both uccellini and osei mean the small songbirds such as thrushes, sparrows, larks, blackbirds and the like. a. except for the quail. In the Venetian dialect, the spelling poenta e osei is also used.

In 2007, the Bergamo Chamber of Commerce and Agriculture stipulated in its production regulations for the sweet polenta e osei dolce that this designation must not be "translated".

Polenta e osei salata

For the meat version of polenta e osei be in the kitchen wild birds used as larks (ital. Allodole) , chokes (ital. Tordi) , Sparrow (ital. Passeri) , buntings (ital. Ortolan ), quail (ital. Quaglia ).

The feathers of the slaughtered birds are first plucked, eyes and claws removed, then they are flamed to remove all hair. Since they are very small and tender, the prepared birds are eaten with their bones. Whether the intestines are removed is a matter of taste; Connoisseurs prefer the birds cooked and eaten without exception. In the Italian cookbook La cucina degle stomachi deboli (German: Kitchen for weak stomachs ) from 1858, it is recommended "to roast the plucked, singed and well-smelling birds without eyes and down feathers without emptying their stomachs ". In the Guida gastronomica d'Italia (German: Gastronomic Guide of Italy) of 1931, leaving the innards is described as an "indispensable precaution for the highest quality of the dish". This custom can be traced back to the 15th century in the cookbook Libro de arte coquinaria by Maestro Martino .

Regional production methods

In Lombardy , the birds are alternately skewered with sage leaves and pieces of lardo and fried in the pan, the resulting roast is used for the sauce. A cornmeal porridge is formed into a mound and topped with the roasted birds.

In Tuscany (ital. Osei in intingolo ): small birds fried in butter with sage leaves and garlic, in a sauce made from red wine and tomato puree.

In Brescia - called polenta e osei allo spiedo - they are put on a spit alternately with cubes of pork loin and roasted over coals ; the gravy is used for the sauce.

history

In Italy, maize was first grown in the Polesine , an area around the Po Delta where other crops were difficult to grow because of the hot and humid climate.

In the middle of the 16th century the Venetians and especially the inhabitants of the Terraferma were very poor. The newly introduced corn plant was a welcome source of food because it was easy to cultivate and even grown in the Polesine. The few rich locals were able to supplement their traditional menu with the new dish polenta (such as polenta e osei or polenta e baccála; German : polenta with birds or stockfish) , while this became the main staple for the poorer people.

Brescia and Bergamo were part of the Republic of Venice at that time , so the influences of Venetian rule are reflected in the Lombard cuisine. Polenta later caught on here, but it has also remained an integral part of it to this day.

Bird trapping also has its origins in the poverty of the rural population; wild birds were caught with nets for food. The landlords provided their servants and day laborers with cheap food such as legumes, beets, polenta and wild birds.

Bird protection and traditions

The amendment to Article 21 in the Italian Hunting Act 157/1992 implemented EU legislation in 2014: Wild birds may neither be bought nor sold, nor can they be imported from non-EU countries. The mallard, the partridge, the pheasant and the wood pigeon - species that do not belong to the culinary tradition of Brescia and Bergamo, are exempt from the prohibitions. This sparked long-standing debates about the preservation of the eating and hunting traditions of northern Italy. The change in the law was called the "anti-polenta-e-osei law" by opponents, and the restaurateurs who served the typical dish were outraged. Several parliamentarians asked for a change in the legislation.

Since then, polenta e osei can no longer be offered in the trattorias . Hunters can only eat their prey in their own homes, with friends and family. Should a restaurant serve polenta e osei with legally hunted thrushes, for example, there is a risk of heavy fines.

According to the Italian hunting law, wild birds and wild mammals are protected, but exceptionally from the third Sunday in September to 31 December the following can be hunted: quail (Coturnix coturnix); Lovebirds (Streptopelia turtur), blackbirds (Turdus merula); Sparrows (Passer italiae); Tree Sparrows (Passer montanus); House sparrows (Passer domesticus); Larks (Alauda arvensis); Virginia quail (Colinus virginianus); Partridges (Perdix Perdix); Red partridge (Alectoris rufa); Sardinian Partridge (Alectoris barbara).

The Italian Hunting Act (Art. 4 and Art. 19-bis) provides for exceptions for the autonomous regions and provinces, which in turn issue regional regulations and annual bird trapping quotas. For example, in 2017 the quota for ruff , lark , lapwing , ptarmigan , quail and others in Lombardy was reduced.

reception

Giancarlo Passeroni (1713–1803), Italian satirist and poet of the 18th century, mentioned polenta ai tordi (German: corn porridge with thrushes) in his most famous satire II Cicerone in 1756 . Luigi Coppola wrote a hymn of praise for polenta, in which he equated polenta with birds of a jelly:

Era il cibo degli Dei / la polenta con gli osei.

His poem La Canzone della Polenta (German: Lied von der Polenta) was published in the Corriere dell'Arno in 1881 . The Italian composer Luigi Denza wrote a melody for it, after which the song achieved fame that continues to this day in Italy. Marie-Henri Beyle , who had lived in Italy for a few years, reported in his work Rome, Naples et Florence of his participation in bird trapping with nets in Lombardy, of the joie de vivre that he experienced and the deliciousness of the dinner that resulted ucelletti and polenta consisted of.

In 1910, Escoffier had included some recipes for preparing wild birds with polenta in his culinary guide , including “Larks in the Piedmontese style”.

Polenta e osei dolce

In Bergamo's traditional gastronomy, a yellow dessert decorated with chocolate marzipan birds is also called polenta e osei , as it is an imitation of yellow corn porridge with roasted birds. Its origins go back to 1910 when Amadeo Alessio created this cake together with his wife Giuseppina; the two had been running the "Milanese" patisserie since 1907 .

ingredients

In 2007, the Bergamo Chamber of Commerce, Industry and Agriculture issued precise production instructions for polenta e osei dolce . External appearance: yellow with cream filled sponge hemisphere, decorated with chocolate birds on the slightly flattened top. Butter, chocolate and hazelnut creams are used for this. Other ingredients are Curaçao 14 °, yellow marzipan, chocolate marzipan or dark chocolate for making the birds, yellow granulated sugar, apricot puree, lemon peel, cocoa, but no added colorings or preservatives.

Manufacturing

A homogeneous mass is prepared from sugar, honey, eggs and egg yolks, flour, starch and yeast, poured into buttered, dome-shaped baking molds and baked. The diameter of the hemisphere depends on the desired weight, e.g. B. for a finished product weighing one kilogram, the dome has a diameter of 12/14 cm.

Butter, white chocolate, hazelnut cream, and rum are used for the chocolate and hazelnut buttercream to fill the cake.

For the buttercream to cover the cake, egg whites are beaten until stiff, the boiled sugar syrup is folded in and allowed to cool, then worked into the whipped butter.

The biscuit hemisphere is cut horizontally in half, moistened with curacao, filled with the chocolate-hazelnut buttercream and reassembled. The top of the cake is first covered with the buttercream and then with a layer of yellow marzipan. The “polenta” is sprinkled with yellow granulated sugar, on top of which the apricot puree is distributed in the middle of the flattened hemisphere. Alternately, candied lemon peel is made into the shape of a skewer and a little bird is made from chocolate marzipan, and the “polenta” is garnished with it (little bird with upturned feet).

Web links

Commons : Polenta e osei  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ dialetto Bresciano - Dictionnaire. Retrieved September 9, 2018 .
  2. ↑ Osei in Vocabolario - Treccani. Istituto della Enciclopedia Italiana, accessed September 25, 2018 (Italian).
  3. ↑ a b Poenta e osei (polenta e allodole) - Le ricette - Promozione turistica del Veneto. Retrieved September 15, 2018 (Italian).
  4. ↑ a b DISCIPLINARE DI PRODUZIONE DE LA POLENTA E OSEI. Camera di Commercio Bergamo, 2007, accessed September 9, 2018 (Italian).
  5. ^ A b Günther Schatzdorfer, Wolfgang Böck: Better. Simple: a culinary and cultural journey through the lagoons to Venice. Styriabooks, 2013, ISBN 978-3-99040-076-0 , Venice beyond Venice ( google.de [accessed September 25, 2018]).
  6. ^ Burton Anderson: The Foods of Italy: The Quality of Life . Italian Trade Commission, 2004, p. 117 ( google.de [accessed September 15, 2018]).
  7. ↑ La cucina degle stomachi deboli, ossia pochi piatti non comuni e di facile digestione; con alcune norms relative al buon governo delle vie digerenti . Giuseppe Bernardoni, 1858, p. 35 ( google.de [accessed on September 17, 2018]).
  8. ^ A b Touring Club Italiano, Fondazione italiana Buon Ricordo (ed.): Guida gastronomica d'Italia . 1931, ISBN 978-88-365-2940-7 , pp. 67–136 ( google.de [accessed September 17, 2018]).
  9. ↑ Maestro Martino: Libro de arte coquinaria (Beccafichi arrosto). In: uni-giessen.de. Thomas Gloning / Digital Version: Valeria Romanelli, p. 133 , accessed on September 18, 2018 (Italian).
  10. ↑ Marco Riva, Rossano Nistri, Monica Paolazzi: Polenta e osei. In: PER UN CODICE DELLA CUCINA LOMBARDA. P. 36 , accessed on September 17, 2018 (Italian).
  11. ^ Gillian Riley: The Oxford Companion to Italian Food . Oxford University Press, USA, 2007, ISBN 978-0-19-860617-8 , pp. 502 ( google.de [accessed September 25, 2018]).
  12. ↑ a b Maurizio Bettini: Roots: The deceptive myths of identity . Antje Kunstmann, 2018, ISBN 978-3-95614-244-4 , Culinary roots ( google.de [accessed September 25, 2018]).
  13. ^ Harlan Walker: Oxford Symposium on Food & Cookery, 1989: Staplefoods: Proceedings . Oxford Symposium, 1990, ISBN 978-0-907325-44-4 , Polenta - an italian staple (by Anna del Conte), p. 75 (English, google.de [accessed September 25, 2018]).
  14. ↑ Simone Ricci: Federcaccia Bergamo: "Il Piano anti-Bracconaggio minaccia la polenta e osei" - Caccia Passione . In: Caccia Passione . April 15, 2017 ( cacciapassione.com [accessed September 9, 2018]).
  15. ↑ a b Torna la rubrica il Cacciatore Bergamasco: Piano Ispra, lotta al bracconaggio o alla polenta e osèi? - www.fidcbergamo.it. Federcaccia Bergamo, April 13, 2017, accessed September 25, 2018 (Italian).
  16. ↑ "Polenta e osei" Vietata per legge Il caso finisce in Parlamento . In: Corriere della Sera . ( corriere.it [accessed September 9, 2018]).
  17. ↑ Quello che ha detto l'Europa sulla polenta e osei (ahinoi) - Bergamo Post . In: Bergamo Post . November 29, 2014 ( bergamopost.it [accessed September 9, 2018]).
  18. ↑ a b Repubblica Italiana Legge 157-92. In: italcaccia.toscana.it. Retrieved September 25, 2018 (Italian).
  19. ↑ Heinrich Erhard: The development of hunting rights in the southern part of Tyrol from the 19th to the beginning of the 21st century. South Tyrolean administration, accessed on September 10, 2018 .
  20. ↑ Lombardia, ridotto ancora il prelievo dell'allodola: carniere giornaliero portato a 10 capi • IoCaccio.it . In: IoCaccio.it . September 11, 2017 ( iocaccio.it [accessed November 27, 2018]).
  21. ^ Il Cicerone, poema di Giancarlo Passeroni . 1756, p. 99 (Italian, google.de [accessed September 25, 2018]).
  22. ↑ La Canzone della Polenta. In: Corrierre dell'Arno. Biblioteca Universitaria di Pisa, March 27, 1881, accessed September 15, 2018 .
  23. ↑ Corrado Barberis: Mangitalia: la storia d'Italia servita in tavola . Donzelli Editore, 2010, ISBN 978-88-6036-449-4 ( google.de [accessed September 15, 2018]).
  24. ↑ Cucina Bergamasca . In: ARTE, NATURA, STORIA, CULTURA E TRADIZIONI . (Italian, bergamasca.net [accessed September 25, 2018]).
  25. ^ Stendhal: Rome, Naples et Florence . Delaunay, 1826, Le Rocolo, p. 278–279 (French, google.de [accessed September 25, 2018]).
  26. ↑ Auguste Escoffier: A. Escoffier's culinary art guide. In: digital.slub-dresden. Pp. 658, 660 , accessed on September 16, 2018 .
  27. ↑ Polenta e osei. Prodotti tradizionali bergamaschi. Camera di Commercio di Bergamo, accessed September 25, 2018 (Italian).

literature

  • Polenta e osei. In: Günther Schatzdorfer, Wolfgang Böck : Better. Simple: A culinary and cultural journey through the lagoons to Venice. Styriabooks, 2013, ISBN 978-3-99040-076-0 .
  • Lombardy / Lombardia. In: Burton Anderson: The Foods of Italy: The Quality of Life. Italian Trade Commission, 2004, p. 117.
  • Provincia di Bergamo. In: Touring Club Italiano, Fondazione italiana Buon Ricordo (ed.): Guida gastronomica d'Italia. 1931, ISBN 978-88-365-2940-7 , pp. 67-136.
  • Small birds. In: Gillian Riley: The Oxford Companion to Italian Food. Oxford University Press, USA, 2007, ISBN 978-0-19-860617-8 , p. 502.
  • Culinary roots. In: Maurizio Bettini: Roots: The deceptive myths of identity. Antje Kunstmann, 2018, ISBN 978-3-95614-244-4 .
  • Polenta - an italian staple. In: Harlan Walker: Oxford Symposium on Food & Cookery, 1989: Staplefoods: Proceedings. Oxford Symposium, 1990, ISBN 978-0-907325-44-4 , p. 75.
  • Lombardia - Bergamo: i formaggi di quei facchini. In: Corrado Barberis: Mangitalia: la storia d'Italia servita in tavola. Donzelli Editore, 2010, ISBN 978-88-6036-449-4
  • Le rocolo. In: Stendhal : Rome, Naples et Florence. Delaunay, 1826, pp. 278-279.