Schwarzhorn (Monte Rosa Massif)
| Schwarzhorn | ||
|---|---|---|
 The Schwarzhorn (Corno Nero) in the Monte Rosa massif |
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| height | 4321 m slm | |
| location | Italy | |
| Mountains | Valais Alps | |
| Dominance | 0.3 km → Ludwigshöhe | |
| Notch height | 41 m ↓ notch to Ludwigshöhe | |
| Coordinates | 45 ° 54 '54 " N , 7 ° 51' 43" E | |
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| First ascent | August 18, 1873 by Marco Maglionini, Albert de Rothschild under the leadership of Eduard Cupelin, Peter and Niklaus Knubel and two porters | |
| Normal way | Glacier tours through the southwest and northwest flanks (WS) | |
The Schwarzhorn ( Italian Corno Nero ) is a 4,321 meter high peak in the Italian Alps .
It belongs to the Monte Rosa massif in the Valais Alps, which lie on the border between Switzerland and Italy. The Schwarzhorn itself is located on the ridge that extends south from Ludwigshöhe to the Vincent Pyramid . Valley locations are Zermatt in Switzerland and Alagna on the Italian side.
history
The first ascent of the Schwarzhorn took place on August 18, 1873 by Marco Maglionini and Albert de Rothschild, who were led by mountain guides Peter and Niklaus Knubel from St. Niklaus and Eduard Cupelin.
Routes
- The most common normal route leads as a glacier tour with rocky passages from the Italian side over the Gnifettihütte (3647 m) through the northwest flank and over the Zurbriggenjoch to the summit. Here are overcome by up to 43 ° in the firn slopes, the maximum difficulty in rocky passages in the summit area is in the I. difficulty . Total walking time 2½ – 3 hours from the Gnifetti hut.
- The ascent through the southwest flank and the Vincentjoch has difficulties in grade I + and leads through firn up to 40 °. This route, which starts at the Gnifettihütte, is also mainly a glacier tour. Walking time 2½ hours.
In winter and spring, these two climbs can also be carried out as ski tours with ski depots below the summit.
literature
- Michael Waeber: Valais Alps. Area guide for hikers, mountaineers, ski tourers and climbers. The most popular climbs to all important peaks with descriptions of all recommended ski tours. 13th edition. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-2416-X .
- Helmut Dumler, Willi P. Burkhardt: Four-thousanders in the Alps. 12th, updated edition. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2001, ISBN 3-7633-7427-2 .
Web links
- Schwarzhorn at 4000m - the four-thousanders of the Alps