Skull (Hohe Tauern)
| Skull | ||
|---|---|---|
 Skull from the northwest, behind it on the right the Hohe Riffl |
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| height | 3151 m above sea level A. | |
| location | State of Salzburg , Austria | |
| Mountains | Austrian Central Alps , Hohe Tauern , Glockner Group , Kapruner / Stubacher Kamm | |
| Coordinates | 47 ° 7 '36 " N , 12 ° 39' 35" E | |
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| First ascent | 19 September 1885 by Ludwig Purtscheller single-handedly | |
| Normal way | UIAA grade III climbing tour through the southern flank or dangerous hanging glacier ascent from the northeast | |
The Totenkopf is a 3151 meter high mountain in the Glockner Group in the Hohe Tauern , a mountain range in the Central Alps . The mountain is located in the Austrian state of Salzburg. It has three peaks, the east or main peaks , and two firn-covered secondary peaks. To the northwest, the mountain emits a pronounced 1.3 kilometer long ridge, to the southeast, a firn edge covered with cornices runs over to the Hohe Riffl . The skull has huge rock faces on the north and south sides, which are separated by the northwest ridge. It was first climbed on September 19, 1885 by Ludwig Purtscheller single- handedly. Due to its easy accessibility from the Rudolfshütte and its demanding tours, it is a popular climbing mountain .
location
The skull lies in a secondary ridge that branches off to the northwest from the Kapruner / Stubacher ridge and extends down to the dammed Tauernmoossee (water level at 2023 meters). In the north, east and south the mountain is surrounded by small crevice-rich glaciers . Below the north face of the Totenkopf lies the Untere Rifflkees , in the east extends up to the summit of the hanging glacier Upper Rifflkees , also known as Die Totenlöcher , and in the west lies the Totenkopfkees . Séracs , ice towers that make access difficult and dangerous, form the northern edge of the Upper Rifflkee . Neighboring mountains in the course of the southeastern firn cutting edge are the 3338 meters Hohe Riffl and beyond the dead holes, above the Kapruner Törl crossing , the Torkopf at 3101 meters. The Rifflkarkopf (3016 m) still lies along the northwest ridge . The next significant settlement is Uttendorf in Salzburg, about 19 kilometers away as the crow flies , in a north-westerly direction in the Stubach Valley .
Bases and routes
Ludwig Purtscheller's path in 1885 led from the Wasserfallalpe in the northern Kaprun Valley up to the Kapruner Törl, at an altitude of 2,639 meters, and then over the Obere Rifflkees, held up by knee-deep snow (quote from Purtscheller), over the northeast side in a good four hours to the summit. His descent took him through the southern flank down to the Rifflkees and on to the Rudolfshütte. There is no such thing as a normal route to the skull in the literature. Purtscheller's ascent from the northeast is a dangerous glacier ascent with 534 meters of altitude and critical crevasses. An ascent is also possible when crossing the Hohen Riffl, a challenging high-altitude tour from the east. Climbers prefer the pure rock or combined rock / ice tours in the difficulty levels UIAA III to V through the north and south walls, as well as over the west and north-east ridge ( for example, a climbing route with 9 pitches in UIAA grade has been running over the southwest pillar since 1983 IV and V-, as well as two key points UIAA V).
Literature and map
- Willi End : Alpine Club Guide Glockner Group , Bergverlag Rother , Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-1266-8
- Eduard Richter : The development of the Eastern Alps , III. Volume published by the German and Austrian Alpine Club, Berlin 1894
- Alpine Club map 1: 25,000, sheet 40, Glockner group
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ Communications of the German and Austrian Alpine Club , Volume XII, Munich 1886, p. 68
- ↑ Willi End: Alpenvereinsführer Glocknergruppe , Munich 2003, p. 480 ff., Margin no. 1727 ff.