Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza at the Leading World Cup in Imst 2009

Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza (born September 7, 1980 in Eibar ) is a Basque sport climber . He succeeded in the world's first onsight ascent of a route with a difficulty level of 8c + . In 2009 he became world champion in sport climbing .

Career

Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza was one of the world's best sport climbers. With his first place at the International World Games in Duisburg in 2005, he indicated for the first time what he permanently confirmed in the following two years: numerous World Cup successes in 2006 and 2007 led to the Basque playing a dominant role. In both seasons he was able to win the overall World Cup. At the World Championships in Aviles, Spain, in September 2007, Lakunza had to defeat his compatriot Ramón Julián Puigblanque and be satisfied with the silver medal. In 2009 he won the world title ahead of the Czech Adam Ondra .

Outside the hall, Lakunza is also very active. He made a name for himself above all with the first “on-sight” ascent of an 8c + route, the “Bizi Euskaraz”, on December 12, 2007. But he also has numerous other routes on his list.

Due to a serious car accident, he had to take a break from his competitive climbing career and climbing at the upper limit in 2011. In 2017 he managed an extremely difficult route for the first time with the route "Papichulo" (9a +).

successes

Competitions

  • World championships
    • World Champion in Qinghai (China) 2009
    • Vice World Champion in Aviles (Spain) 2007
    • Vice World Champion in Chamonix (France) 2003
  • European championships
    • First in Paris in 2008
  • Rock master
    • 2008 winner
  • World cup
    • Overall victory in 2006, 2007
    • Victory in Chuncheon (South Korea) 2010
    • Victory in Chamonix (France) 2009
    • Victory in Bern (Switzerland) in 2008
    • Victory in Valence (France) 2007
    • Victory in Marbella (Spain) 2006
    • Victory in Edinburgh (Great Britain) 2003
  • World Games

rock

  • Papichulo (9a +)
  • Pachamama (9a +)
  • Novena Enmienda (9a +)
  • La Rambla (9a +)
  • Fuck the System (9a)
  • Fabela pa la Enmienda (9a)
  • Esclatamaster (9a)
  • Faxismoaren Txontxongiloak (9a)
  • Mendeku (9a)
  • Ini Ameriketan (9a)
  • Il Domani (9a)
  • Kinematix (9a)
  • Psikoterapia (9a)
  • Begi Puntuan (9a)
  • Action Directe (9a)
  • Realization (9a +) (Usobiaga used the route's original name for the route: biography )
  • Bizi Euskaraz (8c +) on sight
  • Mosca Cullonera (8c) on sight
  • Gaua (8c) on sight
  • Pata Negra (8c) on sight
  • Mas de Veinte (8b +) on sight

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. [1] - "Papichulo, 9a +, by Patxi Usobiaga"
  2. Patxi Usobiaga climbs Realization.Retrieved July 3, 2010