List of famous climbers

This list contains the names, dates of life and greatest achievements of famous or particularly successful (male or female) mountaineers .

For men, classic are partly full speed listed -Bergsteiger, partly modern all-round mountaineers in rock , ice , waterfall , big wall - and free solo -Klettern or altitude mountaineering are active, sometimes even people who only by a only first ascent were noticed. The line between mountaineers and pure climbers is often difficult to draw. If a sport climber makes a notable appearance in the alpine scene, he will be listed here; for pure sport climbers or boulderers see the list of well-known sport climbers .

This list also includes all female alpinists who are famous, known or successful in the broadest sense. Since, for historical, social and cultural reasons, mountaineering was and largely still is a male domain for decades and centuries, the number of famous women in mountaineering is very limited. Therefore, a strict selection or a separation between alpine mountaineering and pure climbing, as with the male mountaineers above, is not necessary. Classical alpinists are listed here as well as sport climbers.

The most important mountaineers

It is difficult to make objective statements about which mountaineers were the most important, because pioneering individual achievements are often juxtaposed with entire careers that are exceptional in their entirety. Furthermore, it is difficult to weigh up the different requirements of mountaineering in the individual epochs against each other. It makes sense to speak of the “best mountaineers of their time” who were ahead of their time in their own alpine historical (and often geographical) context. The fame of a mountaineer depends to a decisive extent on how much he markets himself and, for example, presents himself to a wider readership with book publications.

Reinhold Messner (* 1944), who was the first to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders - including Mount Everest as the first without additional oxygen - is probably the most famous mountaineer of our time. He is considered a complete alpinist, who achieved pioneering achievements in rock climbing, classic mountaineering and high-altitude mountaineering and made a name for himself with countless publications and lectures.

If one wanted to list several “best mountaineers”, the names Hermann Buhl (1924–1957), Walter Bonatti (1930–2011) and Jerzy Kukuczka (1948–1989) would have to be mentioned, who achieved extraordinary results above all in rock climbing, but also in high altitude mountaineering . Alexander Huber (* 1968) is still in his active days, but is already one of the greats.

The extended circle also includes Gaston Rébuffat (1921–1985), Kurt Diemberger (* 1932), Chris Bonington (* 1934), Doug Scott (* 1941), Hans Kammerlander (* 1956) and Thomas Huber (* 1966). The last few decades in particular have produced an abundance of mountaineers who climb at the highest levels of difficulty, which is why it is becoming increasingly difficult to find the "best".

Ludwig Purtscheller (1849–1900), Angelo Dibona (1879–1956), Paul Preuss (1886–1913), George Mallory (1886–1924), Emilio Comici (1901–1940) were among the best mountaineers or climbers of their time . Anderl Heckmair (1906–2005), Heinrich Harrer (1912–2006), Peter Habeler (* 1942), Reinhard Karl (1946–1982) and Jean-Christophe Lafaille (1965–2006).

Chronological listing

Men

Born until 1800

Francesco Petrarca, the first mountaineer in history?

Francesco Petrarca (1304–1374) - first ascent of Mont Ventoux (1336), first ever documented mountain ascent for alpine motifs.
Bonifacio Rotario d'Asti (?) - First to climb the Rocciamelone in 1358 .
Antoine de Ville (1450–1504) - In 1492 he was the first to climb Mont Aiguille , which was the first ever official ascent of a difficult mountain; In addition to Francesco Petrarca's ascent of Mont Ventoux, this is considered to be the birth of alpinism .
Francesco De Marchi - first to climb Corno Grande , highest peak of the Gran Sasso massif (1573)
Pastor Bickel (around 1625) - first to climb the Großer Widderstein (1669), according to other sources (1664).
Michel-Gabriel Paccard (1757–1827) - first to climb Mont Blanc (1786).
Jacques Balmat (1762–1834) - first to climb Mont Blanc (1786).
Josef Pichler (1765–1854) - first to climb the Ortler .
Valentin Stanič (1774–1847) - first to climb the Watzmann (1800).
Karl Thurwieser (1789–1865) - first to climb some peaks, e.g. B. the Dachstein .
Josef Naus (1793–1871) - Carried out the first historically secured ascent of the Zugspitze (1820).
Francesco Lacedelli (1796–1886) - Paul Grohmann's first mountain guide in the Dolomites .

Born 1801–1850

Edward Whymper, the first to climb the Matterhorn

Gottlieb Samuel Studer (1804–1890) - first to climb several Alpine peaks.
Josef Maria Tresch-Exer (1818–1886) - first to climb several three-thousanders in Uri.
John Tyndall (1820-1893) - first to climb the Weißhorn (1861).
Franz Josef Lochmatter (1825–1897) - He introduced the first alpine ice ax in Switzerland.
Christian Almer (1826–1898) - first climber of some Western Alps peaks, e.g. B. Mönch (1857), Eiger (1858), Barre des Écrins (1864).
Hermann von Schlagintweit (1826–1882) - together with Adolph and Robert , who held the altitude record of their time ( 6785 m on the Kamet ), known as the Schlagintweit brothers .
Melchior Anderegg (1828–1914) - mountain guide legend, first to climb some high Alpine peaks, e.g. B. Alphubel , Monte Disgrazia , Grandes Jorasses .
Josef Anton Specht (1828–1894) was the first to climb some Eastern Alps peaks, e.g. B. Zuckerhütl (1862) and Piz Buin (1865).
Johannes Zumtaugwald (1826–1900) first climber of Dom (1858), Rimpfischhorn (1859) and Täschhorn (1862).
Michel Auguste Croz (1830–1865) - mountain guide legend, numerous first ascents, e.g. B. Monte Viso (1861), Barre des Écrins (1864) and Matterhorn (1865).
Santo Siorpaes (1832–1900) - mountain guide legend, more than 20 first ascents in the Dolomites, e.g. B. Cimon della Pala , Hohe Gaisl
Leslie Stephen (1832–1904) - first to climb several high Alpine peaks, e. B. Bietschhorn , Zinalrothorn .
Peter Knubel (1832–1919) - first ascent of the 5642 m high Elbrus in the Caucasus in 1874.
Josef Marie Lochmatter (1833–1882) - At the latest with the second ascent of the Hörnli ridge in 1868, he was considered a great authority on the Matterhorn.
Stephan Steinberger (1833–1905) - 1854: First known solo attempt on the Großglockner and first ascent of the Königspitze solo.
Johann Grill (1835–1917) - first to climb the Pflerscher Tribulaun (1874), first to climb the Watzmann east face (1881).
Paul Grohmann (1838–1908) - first to climb several prominent Alpine peaks, e. B. Marmolada (1864), Olperer (1867), Langkofel (1869), Große Zinne (1869).

Hermann von Barth, the great developer of the Northern Limestone Alps

Jean-Estéril Charlet-Straton (1840–1925) - First winter ascent of Mont Blanc (1876); First to climb the Petit Dru (1879).
Paul Güßfeldt (1840–1920) - first to climb Piz Scerscen (1877); was the first German to stand on the Matterhorn in 1868 ; completed the first winter ascent of the Grandes Jorasses in 1891 ; climbed the Aconcagua up to 6400 m as early as 1882 and was the companion of Kaiser Wilhelm II .
Julius Pock (1840–1911) - developer of the Karwendel and Stubai Alps .
Edward Whymper (1840–1911) - first to climb the Barre des Écrins (1864), the Aiguille Verte and the Matterhorn (1865).
Josef Imboden (1840–1925) - first ascent of the 6,058 m high Khanla Kang in the Kangchenjunga group of the Himalayas in 1883.
Theodor Harpprecht (1841–1885) - first to climb the Thurwieserspitze, among others .
Julius von Payer (1842–1915) - first to climb the Adamello (1864) and several peaks in the Ortler group.
Johann Santner (1840–1912) - first ascent of the Santner peak (1888), numerous other first ascents.
Gottfried Merzbacher (1843–1926) - first to climb the Totenkirchl and several high peaks of the Caucasus , did research in the Karakoram and Tian Shan .
Alois Pollinger (1844–1910) - inventor of the abseiling technique with double rope.
Hermann von Barth (1845–1876) - “discoverer” and developer of the Northern Limestone Alps , numerous first ascents in the Karwendel and Wetterstein .
Alfred Graf von Pallavicini (1848–1886) - first to climb the famous Pallavicini channel on the Grossglockner (1876).
Edward Theodore Compton (1849–1921) - painter and mountaineer, first direct ascent of the Zugspitze from the Höllental (1878), first ascent of the Torre di Brenta (1882), the Cima Brenta Bassa (1883) and the Great Fermeda (1887).
Ludwig Purtscheller (1849–1900) - first to climb Kilimanjaro (1889), climber of over 1700 Alpine peaks.
Alois Ennemoser ? First ascent of some peaks in the Ötztal Alps , e.g. B. Watzespitze (1869).
WAB Coolidge (1850–1926) - over 1000 summit climbs in the Alps.

Born 1851–1880

Georg Winkler, first to climb the Winklerturm

Albert Mummery (1855–1895) - “guideless” mountaineer who made difficult tours in the Alps; tried to be one of the first ever to climb an eight-thousander and was killed on Nanga Parbat in 1895 .
Matthias Zurbriggen (1856–1917) - mountain guide, meanwhile altitude record of 6890 m in the Karakoram , first to climb the Aconcagua (1897).
Karl Blodig (1859–1956) - First mountaineer who, according to his counting method, climbed all four-thousanders or 68 four-thousanders in the Alps.

Oscar Eckenstein (1859–1921) - inventor of the ten-pointed crampon and the associated Eckenstein technique. Set a new altitude record of 6,600 meters on K2 in 1902 .
Vittorio Sella (1859–1943) - First winter crossings of the Matterhorn (1882), the Dufourspitze (1884) and the Mont Blanc (1888).
Emil Zsigmondy (1861–1885) - companion of Ludwig Purtscheller , carried out the first longitudinal crossing of the Meije with him (1885).
Eugen Guido Lammer (1863–1945) - pioneer of driverless mountaineering, writer.
Ludwig Norman-Neruda (1864–1898) - first ascents in the Bernina group, in the Valais and Pala group , namesake of a north-east face route on the Liskamm.
César Ollier (1865–1930) - One of the first to climb Mount Kenya (1899); one of the first to climb the Peutereygrates (1893)
Luigi Rizzi (1869–1949) - Together with Angelo Dibona, the first to climb the Laliderer North Face (1911) and the Meije South Face (1912).

Georg Winkler (1869–1888) - At the young age of less than 19 years, top climber who was lost on the Weisshorn and first climber of the Winklerturm in the Rosengarten .
Josef Lochmatter (1872–1915) - 1900 ski expedition to Norway, winter first climber of the Weisshorn ( 4505 m ) on January 10, 1902 and of the Matterhorn ( 4478 m ) over the Hörnligrat on January 31, 1911.
Hans Pfann (1873–1958) - numerous first ascents e.g. B. Fleischbank Nordgrat (1898), climbed 132 four-thousand-meter peaks, first traversed both Ushba peaks in 1903, first climber of Illampu in 1928, at the age of 82 he was still climbing Piz Palü . The Pointe Pfann in the Montblanc area and the Pfannkamin at the Totenkirchl remind of him .
Oscar Schuster (1873–1917) - pioneer from Saxon Switzerland and first to climb the Ushba south summit in the Caucasus, which in 1903 was considered the most difficult mountain in the world.
Otto Ampferer (1875–1947) - first ascent of the Schlüsselkarspitze west ridge (1898), first ascent of the Campanile Basso (1899), first ascent of the Habicht north ridge (1901).
Angelo Dibona (1879–1956) - South Tyrolean mountain guide, meanwhile one of the best climbers ever, namesake of the Dibona edge on the Großer Zinne .

Otto Hahn, 1938

Otto Hahn (1879–1968) - nuclear physicist, pioneer of radiochemistry, Nobel laureate and passionate mountaineer, who from 1907 to 1943 climbed numerous four-thousand-meter peaks without a driver (including Matterhorn , Mönch , Jungfrau , Finsteraarhorn , Dent Blanche , Allalinhorn , Südlenzspitze , Nadelgrat ) and many others (for example Grossglockner , Drei Zinnen ) climbed. Bearer of the "Golden Edelweiss" of the German Alpine Club (DAV).

Gustav Jahn (1879–1919) - Viennese mountaineer and alpine painter, Gesäuse and Dolomites pioneer.

Giovanni "Tita" Piaz (1879–1948) - climbing legend from the Dolomites, inventor of the Piaz technique .

Adolf Schulze (1880–1971) - "Uschba-Schulze", the first to climb the Uschba southern summit in the Caucasus, which in 1903 was considered the most difficult mountain in the world.

Born 1881–1890

Josef Knubel (1881–1961) - 1917 first ski ascent of the 4545 m high cathedral .

Rudl Eller (1882–1977) - first ascent of the Dibona edge on the Großer Zinne (1908).

Hans Fiechtl (1884–1925) - inventor of the rock hook forged from one piece, together with Otto Herzog first climber of the Schüsselkarspitze south face ( V + , 1913).

Konrad Kain (1883–1934) - numerous first ascents, e.g. B. Mount Robson (1913).

Rudolf Kauschka (1883–1960) - From 1904, he was the first to climb several Bohemian peaks.

Oliver Perry-Smith (1884–1969) - First ascents as a climber in Saxon Switzerland , "Fehrmannverschnenung" ( V− ) on the Campanile Basso (1908).

Günter Dyhrenfurth (1886–1975) - Himalaya expert and expedition leader, numerous first ascents in European mountains.

Rudolf Fehrmann (1886–1948) - climber and first-time climber of routes in Saxon Switzerland and the Dolomites .

George Mallory (1886-1924) - mountaineer pioneer on Mount Everest , participant in several expeditions , died in 1924 while attempting to climb it.

Erwin Merlet (1886–1939) - developer of the Pala group and mountain painter.

Paul Preuss (1886–1913) - free climbing pioneer, climbed more than 1200 peaks despite his short life, rejected belaying methods and abseiling.

Emanuel Strubich (1887–1922) - Numerous difficult first ascents in Saxon Switzerland and the Alps.

Otto Herzog (1888–1964) - climber and pioneer of the VI. Grades , numerous first ascents, namesake of the Herzogkante on the Lalidererspitze in the Karwendel , first mountaineering use of the karabiner and the rope crossing.

Arnold Lunn (1888–1974) - first ski ascent of the Dom in 1917 , first traversal of Bisjoch on skis in 1920 , first ascent of Eiger on skis in 1947 .

Wilhelm von Redwitz (1888–1949) - undertook several first ascents, like yours. West wall of the Totenkirchl (1913), the south wall of the Musterstein (1920) and the south wall base of the Great Zinne (1929).

Emil Solleder (1899–1931) - extreme climber, led the VI on the Civetta north-west face . Degree one (1925).

Born 1891–1900

Hans Dülfer (1892–1915) - climbing pioneer, carried out the most difficult first ascents, especially in the Wilder Kaiser , z. B. “Dülfer-Riss der Fleischbank ” single- handedly (1913).

Luis Trenker (1892–1990) - mountain guide, homeland and mountain filmmaker (“Der Kampf ums Matterhorn ”, 1928), writer.

Alfred Horeschowsky (1895–1987) - first to climb the Illampu ( 6368 m ) in 1928; 1923 first solo ascent of the Pallavicini channel on the Großglockner .

Paul Bauer (1896–1990) - Head of the Department for Mountaineering and Hiking in the German Reich Association for Physical Exercise and the German Himalaya Foundation ; Organizer of the rescue expedition for the German Nanga Parbat Expedition in 1937 .

Karl Prusik (1896–1961) - inventor of the Prusik knot , two-time president of the Austrian Alpine Club , also carried out some first ascents.

Peter Aufschnaiter (1899–1973) - expedition leader on Nanga Parbat in 1939 , escaped to Tibet with Heinrich Harrer .

Gunther Langes (1899–1972) - developer of the Pala group and author of climbing guides.

Willo Welzenbach (1899–1934) - First-class ice climber, 36 first ascents in the Alps, e.g. B. the north face of the Great Wiesbachhorn , where an ice hook was used for the first time ; died in the course of the German Nanga Parbat expedition in 1934 .

Angelo Dimai (1900–1985) - extreme climber, first to climb the Great Zinne north face (1933).

Ulrich Inderbinen (1900–2004) - legendary mountain guide from Zermatt , climbed the Matterhorn 371 times , most recently at the age of 90.

Willy Merkl (1900–1934) - Many extreme Eastern Alps tours; Participant in the first (1932) and leader of the second German Nanga Parbat expedition (1934) died there.

Fritz Wiessner (1900–1988) - Performed many extreme tours in the Eastern Alps in the 1920s ; First ascent of Mount Waddington (1936) and first free ascent of Devils Tower (1937). Failed as an expedition leader in 1939 just below the summit of K2 .

Born 1901–1910

Emilio Comici (1901–1940) - extreme climber, first climber of the Great Zinne North Face (1933), one of the first climbers in the VI. Degree at all.

Josef Aschauer (1902–1995) - Berchtesgaden climber with many first ascents, especially in the 1920s on the Watzmann and Hohen Göll , mountain rescuers, skiers and ski jumpers.

Peter Aschenbrenner (1902–1998) - extreme all-round mountaineer with over 2,400 summit climbs and a few first ascents, second climber of the Great Zinne north face (1933), participant in three Nanga Parbat expeditions.

Andrew Irvine (1902–1924) - mountaineering pioneer on Mount Everest , died in 1924 while attempting to climb it.

Uli Wieland (1902–1934) - participant in the German Nanga Parbat Expedition in 1934 and died in this.

Giuseppe Dimai (1903-1946) - extreme climber, first to climb the Great Zinne north face (1933).

Franz Xaver Schmid (1905–1992) - Together with his brother Toni, first climber of the Matterhorn north face (1931), army mountain guide.

Matthias Auckenthaler (1906–1936) - Tyrolean climbing pioneer, first climber of the Direkter Furchetta north face, Lafatscherverschneigung and Lalidererspitze north face.

Willy Häntzschel (1906–1993) - first to climb difficult trails in Saxon Switzerland.

Anderl Heckmair (1906–2005) - first to climb the Eiger north face in 1938.

Marcel Ichac (1906–1994) - Karakoram (1936), Annapurna (1950), French film director, mountaineer and mountain film pioneer.

Walter Pause (1907–1988) - extreme classic mountaineer; Author of the famous book "In extreme rock".

Hans Ertl (1908–2000) - first ascent of the Königspitze north face (1930); First ascent of the Ortler north face (1931); First ascent of Sia Kangri in the Karakoram (1934).

Leo Maduschka (1908–1932) - The Munich top climber was also literary active in his short life. Frozen to death in the sudden fall in the Civetta Northwest Face.

Raffaele Carlesso (1908–2000) - first to climb the Torre Trieste south face

Riccardo Cassin (1909–2009) - extreme climber with approx. 2500 ascents in numerous countries, including more than 100 first ascents or first ascents, e.g. B. Mount McKinley South Face (1961).

Giusto Gervasutti (1909–1946) - set out with two broken ribs and three loose teeth for the first ascent of the north-west face of the Ailefroide in the Écrins massif .

Günther Hepp (1909–1937) - First ascent of Simon 6545 m , Nepal Peak 7100 m , Siniolchu 6897 m with the German Himalayan Expedition in 1936 . Died in an ice avalanche during the 1937 Himalayan expedition on Nanga Parbat at an altitude of 6,200 m . Worked as a cameraman on the documentary "Battle for the Himalayas".

Vinzenz Peristi (1909–1943) - several first ascents in the Dolomites together with Batista Vinatzer .

Toni Schmid (1909–1932) - Together with his brother Franz, he first climbed the Matterhorn north face (1931), died in 1932 on the Wiesbachhorn .

Fritz Kasparek (1910–1954) - 1st winter ascent of the Great Zinne North Face (1938), also 1st winter ascent in VI. Degree at all, first ascent of the Eiger north face (1938).

Born 1911–1920

Hias Rebitsch (1911–1990) - extreme climber and free climbing pioneer, took part in the Nanga Parbat expedition in 1938 , opened numerous climbing routes in the VI. Degree .

Ludwig Vörg (1911–1941) - First successful retreat after 100 hours together with Matthias Rebitsch from the Eiger north face (1937), first climber of the Eiger north face (1938).

Heinrich Harrer (1912-2006) - first ascent of the Eiger north face (1938), spent seven years in Tibet as a teacher of the Dalai Lama , first to climb the Carstensz pyramid (1962), and many other (research) expeditions all over the world.

Pasang Dawa Lama (1912–1982) - almost reached the summit of K2 in 1939 , first climbed Cho Oyu (1954).

Herbert Tichy (1912–1987) - Pilgrim in disguise to Kailash (1935), first climbed Cho Oyu (1954).

Batista Vinatzer (1912–1993) - famous Dolomite climber; u. a. 1932 the Furchetta north face (VI), 1933 the Stevia crack (free VII) and 1936 the Marmolada south face with Ettore Castiglioni (VI +).

Charles Houston (1913–2009) - Led the first American expedition to K2 (1938), took part in the first exploration tour of Mount Everest south side (1950). He was a pioneer in the field of altitude medicine and wrote numerous medical and alpine works.

Toni Kurz (1913–1936) - Berchtesgaden top climber, died in 1936 on the north face of the Eiger .

Edmund Hillary, the first to climb Mount Everest

Rudolf Peters (1913–2008) - inventor of the twelve-pointed crampon and the ice ax with a toothed pick ; first ascent of the 450 m high Schlüsselkarspitze south-east face (1934); first ascent of the Gandes-Jorasses north face (1935); first winter ascent of the Dachstein south face (1940).

Achille Compagnoni (1914–2009) - first to climb the K2 (1954).

Anderl Hinterstoißer (1914–1936) - Berchtesgaden top climber, died in 1936 on the north face of the Eiger .

Tenzing Norgay Sherpa (1914–1986) - first to climb Mount Everest (1953).

Lutz Chicken (1915–2011) - participant in the Nanga Parbat expedition in 1939 and mountain companion of Heinrich Harrer and Peter Aufschnaiter .

Guido Magnone (1917–2012) - climbed the Piz Badile north face (1948), the Eiger north face (1952) and for the first time the west face of the Drus (1952), first to climb the Fitz Roy (1952).

Maurice Herzog (1919–2012) - Together with Louis Lachenal, he was the first person to stand on top of an eight-thousander ( Annapurna , 1950).

Edmund Hillary (1919–2008) - first to climb Mount Everest (1953).

Born 1921–1930

Louis Lachenal (1921–1955) - Together with Maurice Herzog, he was the first person to stand on top of an eight-thousander ( Annapurna 1950).

Gaston Rébuffat (1921–1985) - One of the best climbers of the post-war period; made the second ascent of the Walker pillar (1945), took part in the successful Annapurna expedition (1950), was the first to climb all six great north faces of the Alps , and the first to climb the south face of the Aiguille du Midi (1956).

Lionel Terray (1921-1965) - One of the greatest French climbers; climbed the Grandes Jorasses north face (1946), together with Louis Lachenal , second climber of the Eiger north face (1947), took part in the successful Annapurna expedition (1950), was the first to climb the Fitz Roy (1952) and the Makalu ( 1955 with Jean Couzy ), directed the first ascent of Jannu (1962).

Fritz Moravec (1922–1997) - Together with Josef Larch and Johann Willenpart, first climber of Gasherbrum II (1956), multiple author.

Jean Couzy (1923–1958) - participant of the expedition that climbed the first eight-thousander ( Annapurna 1950), together with Lionel Terray first climber of Makalu (1955).

Sepp Jöchler (1923-1994) - Led the eighth ascent of the Eiger North Face by (1952), mounted together with Herbert Tichy , and Pasang Dawa Lama to Cho Oyu first (1954).

Karl Lukan (1923–2014) - excellent mountaineer and alpine expert who left a great journalistic work.

Hermann Buhl (1924–1957) - One of the best extreme climbers and mountaineers ever in the 1950s. He was the first to climb the Piz Badile Northeast Face (1952), climbed the Watzmann East Face solo on a winter night (1953), and was the first to climb two eight-thousanders ( Nanga Parbat 1953, single-handedly , Broad Peak 1957).

Ludwig Graßler (1925–2019) - inventor and first climber of the Alpine crossing dream path Munich-Venice from Munich to Venice (1974).

Lino Lacedelli (1925–2009) - first to climb the K2 (1954).

Marcus Schmuck (1925–2005) - Extreme climbing in the Alps ( Laliderer North Face , Dru West Face), first to climb Broad Peak (1957), leader of various expeditions.

Armando Aste (1926-2017) - led the first Italian winter ascent of the north face of the Eiger (1962), was the first to climb the southern tower of the Torres del Paine , and wrote several books.

Toni Egger (1926–1959) - Outstanding rock and ice climber of the 1950s, possibly led the controversial first ascent of Cerro Torre together with Cesare Maestri (1959), during which he died in the descent.

Willi Unsoeld (1926–1979) - Together with Tom Hornbein, the first American to climb Mount Everest over the difficult west ridge (1963), and climb Mount Rainier more than 200 times .

Cesare Maestri was able to graduate VI in the 1950s. Climb down grade

Heinrich Roiss (1927–1959) - climbed the most difficult walls in the Dolomites and the North Tyrolean Alps, member of the Gasherbrum expedition (1956), first to climb the Haramosh (1958).
Pete Schoening (1927-2004) - Rescued at K2 five mountaineers life (1953), mounted with Tony Kaufman to Gasherbrum I first (1958), ascended the Mount Vinson first (1966).
Fritz Wintersteller (1927–2018) - Performed numerous first ascents, climbed Broad Peak together with Hermann Buhl , Kurt Diemberger and Marcus Schmuck first (1957), climbed all four-thousand-meter peaks in the Alps.
Erich Vanis (1928–2004) - ninth ascent of the Eiger north face (1952), participation in three eight-thousander expeditions, climbed Mount McKinley and Aconcagua .
Richard “Dick” Bass (1929–2015) - First to climb the Seven Summits after the Mount Kosciuszko version.

Peter Diener (* 1929), the only German first to climb an eight-thousander ( Dhaulagiri 1960)

Cesare Maestri (* 1929) - Extreme rock climber of the 1950s, climbed the VI. Degree from; controversial first ascent of Cerro Torre together with Toni Egger (1959); bored himself up to the same summit by force in 1970.

Jim Whittaker (* 1929) - The first American to climb Mount Everest (1963). First ascent of Mount Kennedy (1965). Head of the expedition to K2, which made the first ascent by US mountaineers possible (1978), head of the Everest Peace Climb (1990).

Walter Bonatti (1930–2011) - climbed the north faces of the Drei Zinnen in winter (1953), was involved in the first ascent of K2 (1954), made alpine history with his solo ascent of the Dru west pillar (1955), climbed Gasherbrum IV ( 7925 m ) first (1958), climbed the Walkerpfeiler in winter (1963) and ended his climbing career with a winter solo ascent of the north face of the Matterhorn , and was one of the best mountaineers ever

Joe Brown (1930–2020) - first ascent of the Kangchenjunga (1955), Muztagh Tower (1956) and Trango Tower (1976). A total of more than 100 first ascent and first ascent routes.

René Desmaison (1930–2007) - Over 1000 tours in the Alps, 114 of which were first ascents. Was the first to climb through the Dru West Face in winter . First ascent of the “Shroud” in the Grandes-Jorasses north face (1968), first solo ascent of the entire Peuterey ridge , first ascent of the western pinnacle direct north face.

Toni Hiebeler (1930–1984) - first winter climber of the Eiger north face (1961) and the Civetta north west face (1963).

Tom Hornbein (* 1930) - together with Willi Unsoeld, legendary first ascent of Mount Everest West Ridge (1963), also the first to cross the mountain.

Josef Larch (1930–2011) - first climber of Gasherbrum II together with Fritz Moravec and Johann Willenpart (1956).

Born 1931–1940

Albert Hirschbichler (1931–1959) - German-Austrian mountaineer. Climbed the north face of the Eiger in 1953, the 12th ascent of this wall. Passage u. a. the Bischofsmütze north face, the Große Zinne north face, the Civetta north west face and the Piz Badile north east face.
Ray Genet (1931–1979) - Alaskan climber. Successfully led around 25 ascents of Mount McKinley and participated in the first winter ascent in 1967. On the way back from the summit of Mount Everest on October 2, 1979, I froze to death on the southeast ridge.
Toni Kinshofer (1934–1964) - First winter crossing of the Karwendel main ridge, first winter ascent of the Eiger north face (1961), second ascent of Nanga Parbat and at the same time first ascent over the Diamir flank (1962).
Barry Bishop (1932–1994) - Under the direction of Edmund Hillary together with Wally Romanes, Michael Gill (New Zealand) and the British Michael Ward first ascent of Ama Dablam (1961). Ascent of Mount Everest with the American Everest Expedition (1963).

Kurt Diemberger, the first to climb two eight-thousanders

Kurt Diemberger (* 1932) - climbed the legendary foam roller on the Königspitze (1956), was one of the first to climb the three big north faces of the Alps (1956-1958). He is also the only living first to climb two eight-thousanders ( Broad Peak 1957, Dhaulagiri 1960).

Don Whillans (1933–1985) - first to climb the Frêney central pillar on Mont Blanc (1961), first to climb the over 2000 m high south face on Annapurna (1970)

Michl Dacher (1933–1994) - Mount a. a. together with Reinhold Messner the K2 (1979, first German on the K2) and the Cho Oyu (1983).

Dietrich Hasse (* 1933) - first ascent of the Direttissima of the Great Zinne North Face (1958), various expeditions, technical climber developer of the Meteora rocks in Greece .

Siegi Löw (1933–1962) - first ascent of the Direttissima of the Große-Zinne -Nordwand (1958), second ascent of Nanga Parbat (1962), died there during the descent.

Chris Bonington (* 1934) - the first Briton to climb the north face of the Eiger (1962), first to climb the Ogre together with Doug Scott (1977), first to climb the Kongur (1980), and lead numerous expeditions to the Himalayas .

John Harlin (1935–1966) - top climber of the early 1960s. Killed during the first ascent of a Direttissima route through the north face of the Eiger .

Royal Robbins (1935-2017) - Difficult first ascents in Yosemite (northwest face of Half Dome 1957, Salathé wall at El Capitan (California) 1961).

Pit Schubert (* 1935) - founding member of the DAV security group (1968), president of the UIAA security commission.

Karl Golikow (1935–1972) - Killed on the northeast face of Piz Badile .

Wang Fuzhou (1935–2015) - First Chinese on Mount Everest , first ascent of the north route over the Three Steps (1960). First to climb Shishapangma .

Lothar Brandler (1936–2016) - extreme climber of the 1950s and 1960s, first ascent of the Direttissima on the Große-Zinne -Nordwand (1958), mountain filmmaker.

Eric Jones (* 1936) - One of the best solo climbers of the 1960s and 1970s; in 1969 he climbed the Bonatti pillar on the Petit Dru ; In 1982 he climbed the north face of the Eiger solo .

Felix Kuen (1936–1974) - climbed the Nanga Parbat over the Rupal face (1970), first ascent of the Sugar Loaf north face (1972).

Jörg Lehne (1936–1969) - first ascent of the Direttissima of the Great Zinne North Face (1958), reached a height of 7125 m on Nanga Parbat in 1961 , died on the Walker pillar .

Claudio Barbier (1938–1977) - In 1961, single-handedly climbed all five north faces of the Three Peaks in a single day .

Yvon Chouinard (* 1938) - pioneer of extreme climbing, first to climb the "North America Wall" on El Capitan (1964), founder of the outdoor company Patagonia .

Marcel Ruedi (1938–1986) - multiple eight-thousander climber.

Hanns Schell (* 1938) - quadruple eight-thousander climber; First to climb several seven-thousanders in the Karakoram .

Robin Smith (1938–1962) - Opened the Shibboleth (E2) and Yo-Yo (E1) routes, which were among the most difficult routes in Great Britain , in the 1950s ; In 1962 he had a fatal accident while climbing Pik Garmo in the Pamirs .

Ian Clough (1937–1970) - Together with Chris Bonington first climber of the central Frêneypsteilers on Mont Blanc (1961) and British first climber of the Eiger north face (1962).

Richard Goedeke (* 1939) - extreme all-round mountaineer, climbing guide and book author, probably the first to climb the 20 most prominent peaks in the Alps.

Gerhard Schmatz (1929-2005) - Extreme all-round mountaineer, climbed the highest mountains around the world, such as Mount Vinson , Manaslu , Mount Everest , Hidden Peak , Cho Oyu , Shisha Pangma , Mount McKinley etc.

Dougal Haston (1940–1977) - first ascent of the Annapurna south face (1970), first ascent of Mount Everest south west face (1975), first ascent of the Eiger north face - Direttissima (1966).

Born 1941–1950

Sigi Hupfauer (* 1941) - together with Gerhard Schmatz 1st German on the Manaslu (1973); one of the most successful German high altitude mountaineers.
Doug Scott (* 1941) - 45 expeditions to high mountains, including 40 first ascents and first ascents; First ascent of Changabang (1974), first ascent of Mount Everest Southwest Face with Dougal Haston (1975), first ascent of Ogre together with Chris Bonington (1977).
Rolf Walter (1941–1985) - first ascent of Lhotse Shar (1970) together with Sepp Mayerl , Kangchenjunga W summit (1975), numerous most difficult routes in the Western Alps, Dolomites, Gesäuse. Killed together with his wife Senta after climbing the Peuterey ridge in a sudden fall just below the Mont-Blanc summit.
Yannick Seigneur (1941–2001) - 500 first ascents, first winter crossing of the Peuterey ridge (1972), climbed several eight-thousanders , e.g. B. First ascent of the Makalu West Pillar (1971).
Peter Habeler (* 1942) - Together with Reinhold Messner, he made the first eight-thousander ascent in alpine style ( Hidden Peak 1975) and the first ascent of Mount Everest without additional oxygen (1978), made first ascents in the Rocky Mountains , is considered the first Europeans at El Capitan .
Klaus Hoi (* 1942) - One of the early advocates of free climbing; many first ascents and a. in the Dachstein massif and in the Gesäuse ; First ascents in winter: Dachstein- Süd-Wand (1963), Dachstein-Nord-Wand (1964), Torstein- Süd-Wand (1972).
Hugo Stelzig (* 1942) - a congenial rope partner - according to the Alpenverein Graz in its news 1/2012 - by Klaus Hoi, with whom he opened up over 500 new routes in the walls of the Dachstein massif and those of the Gesäuses .
Jim Bridwell (1944-2018) - climbing legend, over 100 first ascents in Yosemite (including the first ascent of El Capitan in one day, 1975), was also active in Patagonia and Mount Everest .
Oswald Oelz (* 1943) - alpine and altitude physician, climbed the three great north faces of the Alps , climbed the Seven Summits in third place after the more difficult Carstensz pyramid version (1990).

Reinhold Messner, the most famous mountaineer in the world

Hans Engl (* 1944) - Third (and also first German) ascent of Mount Everest without additional oxygen (1978).

Horst Fankhauser (* 1944) - eight-thousander climber, hut keeper.

Reinhold Messner (* 1944) - Unofficially climbed the VII degree as early as 1968 , plus numerous extreme first ascents in the Alps. Outstanding performance in high altitude mountaineering: u. a. first on all 14 eight-thousanders , together with Peter Habeler, first on Mount Everest without additional oxygen (1978). Successful publicist.

Wolfgang Nairz (* 1944) - traveled over 50 times to Nepal and led numerous Himalayan expeditions, including the Austrian expedition in 1978, during which he himself was the first Austrian, and Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler to climb the summit for the first time without additional oxygen of Mount Everest reached (s).

Heini Holzer (1945–1977) - free climbing pioneer, extreme steep-wall skier. In the 1960s he climbed the most difficult routes together with Reinhold Messner . In 1973 he was the first to ski down the Bianco ridge . Died in 1977 on the north face of Piz Roseg .

Reinhard Karl (1946–1982) - meanwhile fastest ascent of the north face of the Eiger (1969 in 1½ days), free climbing pioneer. Climbed the first route that was officially graded VII (" Pumprisse " in the Wilder Kaiser , 1977). As the first German to climb Mount Everest (1978).

Günther Messner (1946–1970) - extreme climber, first to climb the Rupal face on Nanga Parbat with Reinhold Messner . Killed while descending.

Bernd Arnold (* 1947) - many first climbing ascents in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains .

Gerhard Baur (* 1947) - Various first ascents in the Alps; became known above all for his award-winning work as a mountain filmmaker, u. a. Film documentation of a Kangchenjunga ascent in 1975.

Alessandro Gogna (* 1947) - some first ascents in the Alpine region, author, publisher, mountain photographer.

Voytek Kurtyka (* 1947) - undertook some extremely difficult alpine-style tours on eight-thousanders , e.g. B. with Jerzy Kukuczka the first crossing of the three Broad Peak peaks (1984), 1st ascent of the Gasherbrum IV west face (1985).

Albert Precht (1947–2015) - several hundred first ascents on the Hochkönig , solo climber.

Renato Casarotto (1948–1986) - Climbed the north-northeast pillar of Fitz Roy (1979) in an eight-day solo, and was the first to climb the Broad Peak north summit (1983).

Jerzy Kukuczka (1948–1989) - climbed second and often on new routes or all 14 eight-thousanders in winter .

Franz Oppurg (1948–1981) - First solo ascent of Mount Everest. Entrepreneur of many tours in the Alps, army mountain guide.

Ang Rita Sherpa (* 1948) - climbed Mount Everest ten times.

Joe Tasker (1948–1982) - 1st ascent of the Changabang west face (1976), 1st ascent of the Kangchenjunga north-west side (1978), first ascent of the Kongur (1981).

John Roskelley (* 1948) - first climber of Gauri Sankar , Great Trango and Uli Biaho Tower . Piolet d'Or 2014 for his life's work.

Friedl Mutschlechner (1949–1991) - Numerous difficult tours in the Alps, some eight-thousander expeditions.

Jeff Lowe (1950–2018) - Belonged to the climbing elite in Yosemite Valley around 1970 , around 500 first ascents. Piolet d'Or 2017 for his life's work.

Peter Boardman (1950–1982) - functionary and high-altitude climber who died on Everest , including Kangchenjunga and Changabang West Face.

Krzysztof Wielicki (* 1950) - climbed all 14 eight-thousanders (1980–1996) in fifth place , three of them first in winter and another three on new routes.

Born 1951–1960

Patrick Gabarrou (* 1951) - first ascent of more than 300 routes, 20 of them on Mont Blanc .

Helmut Kiene (* 1952) - climbed the first route that was officially graded VII ("Pumprisse" in the Wilder Kaiser, Fleischbankpfeiler , 1977). Second solo ascent of the entire Peutereygrat in 1975.

Pat Morrow (* 1952) - The first to climb the Seven Summits after the more difficult Carstensz pyramid version.

Fausto de Stefani (* 1952) - climbed 13 of the 14 eight-thousanders .

Robert Schauer (* 1953) - climbed a total of five eight-thousanders , including the first Austrian to climb Mount Everest .

Wladislaw Tersyul (1953-2004) - climbed twelve eight-thousanders , died in 2004 while descending from Makalu .

Kurt Albert (1954–2010) - inventor of red point climbing (approx. 1975), difficult sport climbing all over the world, also classic tours (e.g. Eiger north face approx. 1972).

Carlos Buhler (* 1954) - first American on Kangchenjunga and Lhotse, first to climb the Ama-Dablam east face .

Jon Krakauer (* 1954) - climber of Mount Everest (with additional oxygen); was involved in the Everest disaster in 1996.

Bernd Kullman (* 1954) - climber of Mount Everest (1978) in jeans.

Stephen Venables (* 1954) - first Briton to climb Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen (1988); 1983 first ascent of Kishtwar Shivling ( 5935 m ) in the Indian Kashmir Himalayas with Dick Renshaw; 1990 First ascent of Mount Carse ( 2230 m ) over the northwest ridge with Brian Davison.

Franček Knez (1955–2017) - made almost 800 first ascents and almost 5500 routes in the Alps, the Himalayas, Patagonia, Yosemite and the Andes. Fastest ascent of the Eiger north face in 1982, new routes a. a. at El Capitan , Fitz Roy , Matterhorn , Cerro Torre , Torre Egger and Trango Tower .

Guy Lacelle (1955-2009) - ice climbing pioneer; in his day he opened up some of the most difficult ice climbing routes in the world; multiple award winner; died in an avalanche on December 10, 2009 at the Bozeman Ice Festival in Montana , USA.

Heinz Mariacher (* 1955) - First redpoint the legendary sport climbing routes on the Marmolada -Südwand " way through the fish " ( IX ) and ( "Modern Times" VIII ). Numerous solo ascents, pioneer of modern free climbing movement, decided bolts -Gegner.

Nazir Sabir (* 1955) - most successful Pakistani mountaineer, multiple eight-thousander .

David Breashears (* 1955) - mountain filmmaker, multiple climber of Mount Everest ,

Hanspeter Eisendle (* 1956) - extreme all-round mountaineer, opened sport climbing routes up to the Xth degree , free solo ascents, was also active on eight-thousanders , on El Capitan and in Patagonia ; climbed the Ortler north face and the Große Zinne north face with Hans Kammerlander and climbed 256 km by bike in 24 hours.

Scott Fischer (1955–1996) mountain guide, died in the 1996 Everest disaster .

Mick Fowler (* 1956) - climbed many extreme Himalayan routes with minimal equipment and often solo; 1. Ascent of the north face of Changabang (1997), winner of the Piolet d'Or 2003.

Hans Kammerlander (* 1956) - climber of 12 eight-thousanders , extreme all-round mountaineer, solo climber, all four Matterhorn rates in 24 hours, Ortler north face and 256 km by bike and the Great Zinne north face in 24 hours. , meanwhile fastest ascent of Mount Everest as well as first partial ski run, first ski run Broad Peak .

Juanito Oiarzabal (* 1956) - climbed all 14 eight-thousanders (1985-1999) in seventh place .

Peter Athans (* 1957) - high-altitude climber with many eight-thousand-meter climbs; was involved in the Everest disaster in 1996.

Patrick Berhault (1957–2004) - In 2001 he crossed the Alps along the length of the Alps, climbing numerous peaks via difficult paths (e.g. the three great north faces in autumn / winter); died in 2004 after attempting to climb all 82 four-thousand-meter peaks in the Alps after the 64th summit.

Reinhard Patscheider (1957–1998) - climbed solo through the Eiger north face in less than five hours (1983), was also active on eight-thousanders . Accident at Grand Combin in 1998 due to bad weather.

Reinhard Schiestl (1957–1995) - extreme all-round mountaineer, numerous first, solo, speed and enchaînement ascents.

Anatoly Bukrejew (1958–1997) - multiple eight-thousander climber; was involved in the Everest disaster in 1996; was killed in an avalanche during a winter ascent of Annapurna .

Peter Croft (* 1958) - Numerous extreme solo and speed climbs, e.g. B. El Capitan and Half Dome in One Day (1986), " The Nose " in 4:22 hours (1992).

Alex Lowe (1958–1999) - all-round climber, several spectacular ascents in the Karakoram (K2 north face, Great Tango Tower, Peak 4810) and many first ascents in Yosemite .

Heinz Zak (* 1958) - mountain photographer and extreme climber, was the first to cross the Karwendel main ridge alone and in winter (36 peaks in three days), was second to climb the famous " Separate Reality " route free solo (2005).

Greg Child (* 1959) - First climbed the Gasherbrum IV Northwest Ridge (1986) and the Shipton Spire (1996), climbed the K2 without bottled oxygen (1990).

Beat Kammerlander (* 1959) - climbed the north face of the Eiger in winter (1980), climbed the central pillar on Heiligkreuzkofel solo (1981), opened one of the most difficult alpine sport climbing routes in the world with " Silbergeier " ( X ) (1993).

Erhard Loretan (1959–2011) - third climbed all 14 eight-thousanders (1982–1995).

Ed Viesturs (* 1959) - climbed all 14 eight-thousanders (1989-2005), Mount Everest five times.

Götz Wiegand (* 1959) - He climbed a. a. Mountains in the former USSR , in the High Tatras , in the Himalayas : Shisha Pangma (1994), Cho Oyu (1997), Manaslu (1999) Makalu (2000), Tashi Kang ( 6386 m / 2003), Peak Europa ( 6403 m / 2006) as the first ascent.

Appa Sherpa (* 1960/62) - high-altitude mountaineer, mountain guide, sirdar / boss of the local supporters. Record holder: As of May 2011, 21 times on the summit of Mt. Everest

Eric Escoffier (1960–1998) - climbed Gasherbrum II , Gasherbrum I and K2 within three weeks (1985), wanted to be the first to climb all 14 eight-thousanders before Reinhold Messner ; returned to high-altitude mountaineering, contrary to all expectations, after a serious accident with hemiplegia.

Wolfgang Güllich (1960–1992) - Climbed the world's 1st route in the XI with Action Directe . Degree (1991).

Norbert Joos (1960–2016) - extreme all-round mountaineer; had climbed the three big north faces of the Alps at the age of 19 . Started numerous extreme high alpine routes, together with Erhard Loretan was the first Swiss to climb the Nanga Parbat (1982) and the K2 (1985), a total of 13 eight-thousanders .

Silvo Karo (* 1960) - carried out well over a hundred extreme first ascents in the Alps, in the Himalayas and in Patagonia (on Cerro Torre , Fitz Roy , Bhagirathi III , Mount Everest and others), sport climbing up to grade 8a .

Joe Simpson (* 1960) - happily survived several borderline situations, known from the book & film " Sturz ins Leere " / "Touching the Void".

Born 1961–1970

Ralf Dujmovits (* 1961) - first German to stand on all eight-thousanders, organizer of guided eight-thousand-meter tours, most successful German high-altitude mountaineer to date.

Dave Hahn (* 1961) - stood 14 times on Mount Everest , making him the holder of the ascent record among non-Sherpas (as of 2012).

Rob Hall (1961–1996) - mountain guide, died in the 1996 Everest disaster .

Walter Laserer (* 1961) - climbed the Seven Summits after the more difficult Carstensz pyramid version (until 2006).

Christophe Profit (* 1961) - climbed the three great north faces of the Alps solo in just 22½ hours (1985), and solo in winter in 42 hours (1987).

Diego Wellig (* 1961) - multiple eight-thousander climber, climbed all four ridges of the Matterhorn with Hans Kammerlander within 24 hours.

Thomas Bubendorfer (* 1962) - Numerous extreme first and solo ascents; had climbed the north faces of the Eiger , Grandes Jorasses , Matterhorn and Droites alone, without a rope and in record time at the age of 21 ; climbed through z. B. the Eiger north face solo in under five hours (1983).

Carlos Carsolio (* 1962) - youngest climber of all 14 eight-thousanders .

Christoph Hainz (* 1962) - extreme all-round mountaineer, climbed the Eiger north face solo in 4 ½ hours , opened the most difficult sport climbing routes up to the 10th degree , climbed the superdirettissima of the Great Zinne north face solo in 8 hours in winter.

Christian Kuntner (1962–2005) - climbed 13 eight-thousanders , cycled about 10,000 km on the Silk Road .

Andreas Orgler (1962–2007) - Climbed at the 8th degree in the early 1980s , around 250 first ascents on rock, around 70 first ascents on icefalls, around 50 solo first ascents and around 20 first skis, 1995 winner of the Piolet d'Or . Accident in 2007 while hang-gliding in Australia.

Conrad Anker (* 1962) - Climbing the west face of Latok II (1997) with the Huber brothers and Toni Gutsch , found the body of George Mallory (1999), and was the first to climb the east face of Mount Vinson (2001).

Xaver Bongard (1963–1994) - El Capitan in Yosemite National Park : Iron Hawk (5.9, A4 +), Lost America (5.10, A5), Sea of Dreams (5.10, A5), Jolly Roger (5.10, A5) all as respective first solo ascent; First ascents: Northeast pillar of the Great Trango Tower (6b, A4 +, 85 ° in the ice); Crack Baby (V 6) Icefall on the Zallershorn .

Simon Yates (* 1963) - known from the book & film " Sturz ins Leere " / "Touching the Void", see Joe Simpson .

Valery Babanov (* 1964) - two-time winner of the Piolet d'Or , first to climb the Nuptse Shar I (2004).

Stefan Glowacz (* 1965) - multiple winner of sport climbing competitions, first climber of the route “ The Emperor's New Clothes ” ( X + , 1994), opened an extreme route (2005) together with Robert Jasper on Murallón in Patagonia .

Jean-Christophe Lafaille (1965–2006) - Was one of the world's best extreme mountaineers, climbed eleven eight-thousanders solo or in small expeditions. Climbed ten alpine north faces solo within 16 days (1995). Climbed Shishapangma solo in winter.

Andreas "Andy" Josef Holzer (* 1966) - best known and most successful blind mountaineer.

Thomas Huber (* 1966) - extreme climber (" End of Silence ", X , 1994), free ascent of the famous Salathé Wall on El Capitan ( 8a + , 1996), 1st ascent of the Latok-II -Westwand (1997), first Free ascent of a route on El Capitan in one day (“Freerider”, 1998), second ascent of Ogre ( 7285 m ) and first ascent of Ogre III (2001), speed climber.

Göran Kropp (1966–2002) - Rode a bike from Sweden to Nepal and climbed Mount Everest alone and without additional oxygen (1996).

Christian Stangl (* 1966) - Successful Skyrunner , climbed difficult routes on the Shisha Pangma and on Cho Oyu solo, carried out the fastest ascent of Mount Everest from the north (16:42 hours), climbed all Seven Summits in 58:45 Hours.

Markus Kronthaler (1967-2006) - Austrian extreme mountaineer; climbed u. a. Shisha Pangma and Broad Peak .

Simone Moro (* 1967) - First non-Polish winter ascent of an eight-thousander : Shishapangma (2005), first winter ascent of Makalu (2009) in alpine style without additional oxygen; honored with the UNESCO International Fair Play Award (2001) for renouncing a mountain destination and choosing to rescue a British mountaineer.

Mauro "Bubu" Bole (* 1968) - extreme all-round mountaineer; Matterhorn north face solo, first repetition of the most difficult alpine sport climbing route in the world ("Bellavista", 8c ), most difficult mixed climbs up to M13.

Alexander Huber (* 1968) - extreme climber (second climbing route worldwide in the XIth grade "Om", 1992), "Open Air" (XI +, 1996), first red point ascent of the famous Salathé Wall on El Capitan ( 8a + , 1995), 1 Ascent of the Latok II west face (1997), Cho Oyu ( 8188 m , 1998), Direttissima through the Große Zinne north face free solo ( VIII , 2003), the most difficult alpine sport climbing route in the world (“Pan Aroma” XI− , 2007), speed climber.

Robert Jasper (* 1968) - extreme mountaineer; The world's most difficult mixed climbing routes , climbed the three large north faces of the Alps solo and in record times (1991), including the first ascent of Odyssey ( X- / 8a + ), the most difficult route through the Eiger north face . Fastest ascent of Cerro Torre .

Luis Stitzinger (* 1968) - Climbed Cho Oyu , Gasherbrum II , Nanga Parbat , Dhaulagiri and Broad Peak ; first ski run of Jerzy Kukuczka (from the shoulder) on K2 ; among other things he climbed the Aconcagua , the Muztagata and the Mount McKinley .

Tomaž Humar (1969–2009) - extreme high-altitude mountaineer, carried out around 1500 tours, 70 of which were first ascents. Climbed the Dhaulagiri south face alone in alpine style (1999). Was saved from death in an unprecedented rescue operation on Nanga Parbat in 2005 and died in November 2009 after a broken leg on Langtang Lirung .

Matthias Robl (1969–2008) - German mountaineer, performance, ski and high altitude mountaineer.

Herbert Hellmuth (* 1969) - climbed the Seven Summits according to the more difficult Carstensz pyramid version, as the first German hobby mountaineer on Mount Everest , K2 and Kangchenjunga

Karl Unterkircher (1970–2008) - successful high-altitude climber; climbed Mount Everest and K2 within just two months.

Born 1971–1980

Walter Nones (1971–2010) - expedition mountaineer who climbed Island Peak and Lobuche East Summit in 1995 ; followed by Mount McKinley (1999) and the Aconcagua (2003); In 2004 he had success at K2 .

Dean Potter (1972–2015) - extreme slackliner , free solo and speed climber. Among other things, he managed the 3rd free solo ascent of Separate Reality .

Stephan Siegrist (* 1972) - first ascent of the extreme Eiger north face route “La vida es silbar” (up to 7b + , 2003) together with Ueli Steck ; also performed the north face trilogy ( Eiger , Mönch , Jungfrau ) in 25 hours (2004).

Denis Urubko (* 1973) - 15th climber who managed to climb all 14 eight-thousanders. He also made the first winter ascent of Makalu together with Simone Moro .

Tormod Granheim (* 1974) - climbed the Aconcagua in 2002 and went down on skis over the Poland glacier, climbed the Muztagh Ata and the Kuksay Tagh ( 7184 m ) in a week and also went back on skis; In 2006, the ascent of Mount Everest followed with the first ski descent over the Norton Couloir .

Much Mayr (* 1975) - extreme climber, has freely climbed several big walls on El Capitan, freely climbed the French guide on the north face of the Western Zinne ( 8a + ).

Aron Ralston (* 1975) - Became famous for a hand amputation he carried out himself, his incredible story is told in the feature film 127 Hours with leading actor James Franco . After his accident, he single-handedly climbed all 59 four-thousand-meter peaks in Colorado.

Ueli Steck (1976-2017) - solo climber, sport climbing routes up to 8b , ice climbing routes up to difficulty level 11, extreme speed ascents on large walls ( north face of the Eiger up to eight-thousanders in Asia) - On April 30, 2017 he died from a crash Record attempt on Mount Nuptse near Mount Everest.

Robert Steiner (* 1976) - writer and extreme climber; survived a spectacular mountain accident on the Grandes Jorasses in 1997, which led to his first book.

Roger Schäli (* 1978) - Various first ascents, including the Magic Mushroom on the north face of the Eiger, Taku Tower in Alaska.

Pemba Dorjee Sherpa (* 1978?) - Fastest ascent of Mount Everest via the southern route in 8:10 hours (2004).

Born 1981–1990

Peter Ortner (* 1983) - First free ascent of the "Compressor Route" on Cerro Torre with David Lama. Conqueror of the Trango Tower ( 6251 m ) over the difficult route Eternal Flame (IX + / X-). First successful ascent of Chogolisa ( 7668 m ) since 1986 with David Lama.
Dani Arnold (* 1984) - second fastest solo ascent of the Eiger north face in 2:28 hours (2011) and fastest ascent of the Salbitschijen West Ridge in 1:35 hours.
David Lama (1990–2019) - First free ascent of the “Compressor Route” on Cerro Torre with Peter Ortner (2012). First ascent of the central headwall on the 1500 meter high east face of Moose's Tooth in Alaska with Dani Arnold (2013).

Women

Margaret Claudia Brevoort in prominent company (left outside Christian Almer , right William Coolidge )

Marie Paradis (1778–1839) - The first woman on Mont Blanc (1808).

Henriette d'Angeville (1794–1871) - The second woman on Mont Blanc (1838).

Margaret Claudia Brevoort (1825–1876) - first winter ascents of the Wetterhorn and Jungfrau (1874); Unlike her, her dog Tschingel was accepted into the Alpine Club .

Lucy Walker (1836–1916) - The first woman on the Matterhorn (1871).

Annie Smith Peck (1850–1935) - climbed the Matterhorn in 1895 , in 1908 the Huascarán (at that time it was the highest mountain in South America with an estimated 7,300 m ) and held the height record for female mountaineers until its altitude revision, in 1911 she climbed the Coropuna at the age of 61 .

Jeanne Immink (1853–1929) - The first woman to climb in the fourth grade .

Beatrice Tomasson (1859-1947) - Erstbegeherin the Marmolada -Südwand.

Elizabeth Alice Hawkins-Whitshed (1860/61-1934) - The first woman to climb the Aiguille du Tour , the Col du Chardonnet and other major mountains in winter.

Ilona and Rolanda von Eötvös (1880–1945 and 1878–1953) - first climbers of the south faces of Tofana di Rozes and Grohmannspitze

Claude Kogan (1919–1959) - Set the height record for women in 1954 with 7800 m . In 1959 he led the first all-women expedition in the Himalayas. Killed on Cho Oyu .

Helma Schimke (1926–2018) - One of the best mountaineers of the 1950s and 1960s. Climbed in the VI. Degree .

Ekaterina Mamlejewa (* 1930) - first Soviet 7000 woman.

Junko Tabei (1939-2016) - First woman to climb Mount Everest (1975) and first woman to climb the Seven Summits (1992).

Hannelore Schmatz (1940–1979) - First German on Mount Everest (1979), died on the descent.

Wanda Rutkiewicz (1943–1992) - climbed the north face of the Eiger (1973) and stood eight times on the summit of an eight-thousander .

Renata Rossi (* 1953) - In 1984 she became the first female mountain guide in Italy.

Sandy Hill (ex Sandy Hill Pittman) (* 1955) - climbed the Seven Summits , climbed Mount Everest as the 34th woman (1996), always had a huge press hustle and bustle during her activities (e.g. through live internet connections).

Barbara Hirschbichler (* 1959) - was the first German to climb grades IX + (1989), X− (1993) and X (1994), numerous extreme tours in the Alps and the Andes , and climbed Cho Oyu without Sherpa help (1998 ) and the Gasherbrum II (2000).

Catherine Destivelle (* 1960) - multiple winner of climbing competitions, first woman in difficulty level 8a + (1990), solo climber of the four large alpine walls .

Lynn Hill (* 1961) - One of the best sport climbers of all time, multiple winner of climbing competitions, became famous for the first free ascent of " The Nose " on El Capitan (1993).

Pasang Lhamu (1961–1993) - as of 1993 as the first Sherpani and Nepalese on Mount Everest ; she died of exhaustion on the way to base camp; in Nepal she is revered as a national heroine; she was posthumously awarded the "Nepal Tara", the highest honor in the country.

Nives Meroi (* 1961) - Italian mountaineer who has so far climbed 11 eight-thousanders and is currently one of the three most successful high-altitude mountaineers.

Alison Hargreaves (1962–1995) - climbed the Eiger north face when she was six months pregnant, climbed all six major north face of the Alps solo (1993), was the first woman to climb Mount Everest and K 2 alone and without additional oxygen climbed (1995).

Ines Božič Skok (* 1962) - climbed more than 500 difficult routes in Slovenia, in the Dolomites, the central u. Western Alps and the USA. Standing as the second woman on the summit of Cerro Torre , was the first woman to climb the "Philipp-Flamm" ( VI-, A1 or VI + ) on the Civetta .

Oh Eun-sun (* 1966) - was the first woman to climb all eight-thousanders, making her one of the most successful high-altitude mountaineers.

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (* 1970) - wife of Ralf Dujmovits . The third climbed all eight-thousanders , the first without additional oxygen, making her one of the most successful high-altitude mountaineers at the moment.

Daniela Jasper (* 1971) - extreme mountaineer. Including first ascent of Vol de Nuit on Mont Blanc du Tacul (M8-) and Beta block Super (ice climbing on the largest waterfall in Switzerland, WI7). Climbed the north face of the Eiger on four different routes (record for women).

Alix von Melle (* 1971) - most successful German high-altitude climber; climbed Cho Oyu , Gasherbrum II , Nanga Parbat , Dhaulagiri and Broad Peak ; she also climbed Aconcagua , Muztagata , Mount McKinley and others.

Edurne Pasaban (* 1973) - Spanish mountaineer, climbed all eight-thousanders in second place and is currently one of the most successful high-altitude mountaineers.

Ines Papert (* 1974) - Most successful ice climber in the world.

Cecilie Skog (* 1974) - first woman to complete the Explorer Grand Slam ( North Pole , South Pole and the Seven Summits ); first Norwegian on an eight-thousander (2003: Cho Oyu ).

Alexandra Robl (* 1975) - alpinist, performance, ski and high altitude mountaineer.

Marlies Czerny (* 1986) - probably the first woman to climb all 82 4000m peaks in the Alps.

Alphabetical listing (men and women)

I.

Ichac, Marcel (1906-1994)
Imboden, Josef (1840–1925)
Immink, Jeanne (1853–1929)
Inderbinen, Ulrich (1900–2004)
Irvine, Andrew (1902-1924)

J

Jahn, Gustav (1879–1919)
Jasper, Daniela (* 1971)
Jasper, Robert (* 1968)
Jöchler, Sepp (1923–1994)
Jones, Eric (born 1936)
Joos, Norbert (1960–2016)

K

Cain, Konrad (1883–1934)
Kaltenbrunner, Gerlinde (* 1970)
Kammerlander, Beat (* 1959)
Kammerlander, Hans (* 1956)
Karl, Reinhard (1946–1982)
Davo Karničar (1962–2019)
Karo, Silvo (* 1960)
Kasparek, Fritz (1910–1954)
Kauk, Ron (* 1957)
Kiene, Helmut (* 1952)
Kinshofer, Toni (1934–1964)
Knez, Franček (1955–2017)
Knubel, Josef (1881–1961)
Knubel, Peter (1832-1919)
Kobusch, Jost (* 1992)
Kogan, Claude (1919–1959)
Krakauer, Jon (* 1954)
Kronthaler, Markus (1967-2006)
Kropp, Göran (1966–2002)
Kuen, Felix (1936–1974)
Kukuczka, Jerzy (1948–1989)
Kullmann, Bernd (* 1954)
Kuntner, Christian (1962-2005)
Kurtyka, Voytek (* 1947)
Kurz, Toni (1913–1936)

L.

Francesco Lacedelii (1796-1886)
Lacedelli, Lino (1925-2009)
Lacelle, Guy (1955-2009)
Lachenal, Louis (1921–1955)
Lafaille, Jean-Christophe (1965-2006)
Lammer, Eugen Guido (1863–1945)
Lama, Pasang Dawa (1912–1982)
Langes, Gunther (1899–1972)
Larch, Josef (1930–2011)
Laserer, Walter (* 1961)
Lehne, Jörg (1936–1969)
Lochmatter, Josef (1872–1915)
Lochmatter, Franz Josef (1825-1897)
Lochmatter Josef Marie (1833–1882)
Löw, Siegi (1933–1962)
Loretan, Erhard (1959–2011)
Lowe, Alex (1958-1999)
Lowe, Jeff (1950-2018)
Lukan, Karl (1923–2014)
Lunn, Arnold (1888–1974)

M.

Maestri, Cesare (* 1929)
Magnone, Guido (1917–2012)
Mallory, George (1886-1924)
Mariacher, Heinz (* 1955)
Mayerl, Sepp (* 1937)
Mayr, Much (* 1975)
Mazeaud, Pierre (* 1929)
Melle, Alix von (* 1971)
Merkl, Willy (1900–1934)
Merlet, Erwin (1886–1939)
Merzbacher, Gottfried (1843–1926)
Messner, Günther (1946–1970)
Messner, Reinhold (* 1944)
Meutzner, Frank (* 1965)
Miller, Fritz (* 1984)
Moravec, Fritz (1922–1997)
Moro Simone (* 1967)
Morrow, Pat (born 1952)
Mummery, Albert (1855–1895)
Mutschlechner, Friedl (1949–1991)

N

Naglich, Axel (* 1968)
Nairz, Wolfgang (* 1944)
Naus, Josef (1793–1871)
Nones, Walter (1971-2010)
Norman-Neruda, Ludwig (1864–1898)

O

Oelz, Oswald (* 1943)
Oiarzabal, Juanito (* 1956)
Ollier, César (1865–1930)
Oppurg, Franz (1948–1981)
Orgler, Andreas (1962-2007)

P

Paccard, Michel-Gabriel (1757–1827)
Pallavicini, Alfred von (1848–1886)
Papert, Ines (* 1974)
Paradis, Marie (1778-1839)
Pasang Lhama (1961-1993)
Patscheider, Reinhard (1957–1998)
Pause, Walter (1907–1988)
Payer, Julius von (1842–1915)
Peristi, Vincent (1909–1943)
Perry-Smith, Oliver (1884-1969)
Peters, Rudolf "Rudl" (1913-2008)
Petrarca, Francesco (1304-1374)
Pfann, Hans (1873-1958)
Piaz, Giovanni "Tita" (1879–1948)
Pichler, Josef (1765-1854)
Pock, Julius (1840-1911)
Pollinger, Alois (1844–1910)
Potter, Dean (1972-2015)
Precht, Albert (1947–2015)
Preuss, Paul (1886–1913)
Prezelj, Marko (* 1965)
Paul Pritchard (* 1967)
Profit, Christophe (* 1961)
Prusik, Karl (1896–1961)
Purtscheller, Ludwig (1849–1900)

R.

Rabanser, Ivo (* 1970)
Rainer, Kuno (1915–1993)
Ralston, Aron (* 1975)
Rasp, Franz (1939–1988)
Rebitsch, Mathias (1911–1990)
Redwitz, Wilhelm von (1888–1949)
Rebuffat, Gaston (1921–1985)
Richards, Dorothy Pilley (1894-1986)
Rittler, Leo (1907–1931)
Rizzi, Luigi (1869–1949)
Robbins, Royal (1935-2017)
Robl, Alexandra (* 1975)
Robl, Matthias (1969-2008)
Roiss, Heinrich (1927–1959)
Rossi, Renata (* 1953)
Roskelley, John (born 1948)
Ruedi, Marcel (1938–1986)
Rutkiewicz, Wanda (1943–1992)

S.

Sabir, Nazir (* 1955)
Santner, Johann (1840–1912)
Schäli, Roger (* 1978)
Schauer, Robert (* 1953)
Schell, Hanns (* 1938)
Schiestl, Reinhard (1957–1995)
Schimke, Helma (1926-2018)
Schlagintweit, Adolph (1829–1857)
Schlagintweit, Hermann von (1826–1882)
Schlagintweit, Robert von (1833-1885)
Closer, Martin (1929–2008)
Schlömmer, Leo (* 1936)
Schmatz, Gerhard (1929-2005)
Schmatz, Hannelore (1940–1979)
Schmid, Franz Xaver (1905–1992)
Schmid, Toni (1909–1932)
Schmuck, Marcus (1925-2005)
Schoening, Pete (1927-2004)
Scholz, Peter (1943–1972)
Schubert, Pit (* 1935)
Schulze, Adolf (1880–1971)
Schuster, Oscar (1873-1917)
Schwanda, Hans (1904–1983)
Scott, Doug (born 1941)
Seigneur, Yannick (1941-2001)
Sella, Vittorio (1859-1943)
Sherpa, Ang Rita (* 1948)
Sherpa, Appa (* 1960/62)
Sherpa, Pemba Dorjee (* 1978?)
Sherpa, Tenzing Norgay (1914–1986)
Siegrist, Stephan (* 1972)
Siffredi, Marco (1979-2002)
Simpson, Joe (* 1960)
Siorpaes, Santo (1832-1900)
Skog, Cecilie (* 1974)
Smith, Robin (1938-1962)
Smith Peck, Annie (1850-1935)
Solleder, Emil (1899–1931)
Specht, Joseph Anton (1828-1894)
Spitzenstätter, Walter (* 1940)
Stangl, Christian (* 1966)
Stanic, Valentin (1774-1847)
Steck, Ueli (1976-2017)
Stefani, Fausto de (* 1952)
Steinberger, Stephan (1833–1905)
Steiner, Franz (1884–1965)
Steiner, Georg "Irg Steiner" (1885–1972)
Steiner, Johann (1848–1907)
Steiner, Robert (* 1976)
Stelzig, Hugo (* 1942)
Stephen, Leslie (1832-1904)
Stitzinger, Luis (* 1968)
Studer, Gottlieb Samuel (1804–1890)

T

Tabei, Junko (1939-2016)
Tasker, Joe (1948-1982)
Terray, Lionel (1921-1965)
Tersyul, Wladislaw (1953-2004)
Thurwieser, Karl (1789–1865)
Tichy, Herbert (1912–1987)
Tomasson, Beatrice (1859-1947)
Trenker, Luis (1892–1990)
Tyndall, John (1820-1893)

U

Unsoeld, Willi (1926–1979)
Unterkircher, Karl (1970–2008)
Urubko, Denis (* 1973)

V

Toni Valeruz (* 1951)
Vanis, Erich (1928-2004)
Venables, Stephen (* 1954)
Viesturs, Ed (* 1959)
de Ville, Antoine (1450–1504)
Vinatzer, Batista (1912–1993)
Vörg, Ludwig (1911–1941)
Vallejo, Iván (* 1959)

W.

Wagner, Helmut (* 1939)
Walker, Lucy (1836-1916)
Walter, Rolf (1941–1985)
Wang Fuzhou (1935-2015)
Wellig, Diego (* 1961)
Welzenbach, Willo (1899–1934)
Whillans, Don (1933–1985)
Whittaker, Jim (born 1929)
Wiedmann, Otti (* 1935)
Wiegand, Götz (* 1959)
Wieland, Ulrich (1902–1934)
Wielicki, Krzysztof (* 1950)
Wiessner, Fritz (1900–1988)
Winkler, Georg (1869–1888)
Wintersteller, Fritz (1927–2018)
Whymper, Edward (1840-1911)
Wohlleben, Michi (* 1990)

Y

Yates, Simon (* 1963)

Z

Zak, Heinz (* 1958)
Zsigmondy, Emil (1861-1885)
Zumtaugwald, Johannes (1826–1900)
Zurbriggen, Matthias (1856–1917)

Sources and web links

The data on this list was taken from many different websites, often the homepages of the respective alpinists, and in some cases also from mountain books. The following pages also provide valuable information:

Individual evidence

^ Antoine de Ville. geneanet.org, accessed April 25, 2012 .
↑ Zumtaugwald, Johann - personal folder. (PDF; 520 kB) In: Historical Alpine Archives of the Alpine Clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol. Deutscher Alpenverein eV, January 3, 1985, p. 2 , accessed on March 20, 2013 .
↑ Christian Imboden: Mountains: Profession, Vocation, Fate . Rotten Verlag, Visp 2013, ISBN 3-907624-48-3 . P. 146.
↑ Christian Imboden: Mountains: Profession, Vocation, Fate . Rotten Verlag, Visp 2013, ISBN 3-907624-48-3 . P. 92: Ski guide.
↑ Christine Schemmann: The Second Life of Otto Hahn - The Nobel Prize Winner was an excellent mountaineer. In: Der Bergsteiger , 46th vol., No. 8, 1979. pp. 472–473.
↑ “East Tyrol South: Lienz, Drautal, Pustertal, Villgraten, Lesachtal. 50 selected valley and mountain hikes ” . In: Google Books. Page: 41. Retrieved April 29, 2012.
↑ Nicho Mailänder: Back on the river - The life of Rudl Peters . In: DAV Panorama . No. 4 , 2009, p. 48 ff . ( online [PDF; accessed February 1, 2013]).
↑ Nordwand my life with the Eiger, Delius Kasing Verlag, ISBN 978-3-667-10295-9
↑ Ueli record: Steck completes the north face of the Eiger in two hours 22 minutes Spiegel Online, November 23, 2015.
↑ Elizabeth Le Blond. (No longer available online.) In: Oxford Dictionary of National Biography. Archived from the original on October 4, 2012 ; accessed on February 12, 2013 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2
↑ Le Blond, Elizabeth Alice Frances. In: Catalog of the German National Library. Retrieved February 12, 2013 .
↑ Nordwand my life with the Eiger, Delius Klasing Verlag, 2015, ISBN 978-3-667-10295-9

[1] Antoine de Ville. geneanet.org, accessed April 25, 2012 .

[2] Zumtaugwald, Johann - personal folder. (PDF; 520 kB) In: Historical Alpine Archives of the Alpine Clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol. Deutscher Alpenverein eV, January 3, 1985, p. 2 , accessed on March 20, 2013 .

[3] Christian Imboden: Mountains: Profession, Vocation, Fate . Rotten Verlag, Visp 2013, ISBN 3-907624-48-3 . P. 146.

[4] Christian Imboden: Mountains: Profession, Vocation, Fate . Rotten Verlag, Visp 2013, ISBN 3-907624-48-3 . P. 92: Ski guide.

[5] Christine Schemmann: The Second Life of Otto Hahn - The Nobel Prize Winner was an excellent mountaineer. In: Der Bergsteiger , 46th vol., No. 8, 1979. pp. 472–473.

[6] “East Tyrol South: Lienz, Drautal, Pustertal, Villgraten, Lesachtal. 50 selected valley and mountain hikes ” . In: Google Books. Page: 41. Retrieved April 29, 2012.

[7] Nicho Mailänder: Back on the river - The life of Rudl Peters . In: DAV Panorama . No. 4 , 2009, p. 48 ff . ( online [PDF; accessed February 1, 2013]).

[8] Nordwand my life with the Eiger, Delius Kasing Verlag, ISBN 978-3-667-10295-9

[9] Ueli record: Steck completes the north face of the Eiger in two hours 22 minutes Spiegel Online, November 23, 2015.

[10] Elizabeth Le Blond. (No longer available online.) In: Oxford Dictionary of National Biography. Archived from the original on October 4, 2012 ; accessed on February 12, 2013 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2

[11] Le Blond, Elizabeth Alice Frances. In: Catalog of the German National Library. Retrieved February 12, 2013 .

[12] Nordwand my life with the Eiger, Delius Klasing Verlag, 2015, ISBN 978-3-667-10295-9