Alphubel
| Alphubel | ||
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| height | 4206 m above sea level M. | |
| location | Canton of Valais , Switzerland | |
| Mountains | Allalin group or Mischabel , Valais Alps | |
| Dominance | 2.3 km → Taschhorn | |
| Notch height | 355 m ↓ Mischabeljoch | |
| Coordinates | 632 907 / 101370 | |
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| First ascent | August 9, 1860 by the guides Melchior Anderegg , Peter Perren and Franz Andenmatten with TW Hinchliff and Leslie Stephen | |
| Normal way | Glaciated alpine tour | |
The Alphubel is a 4206 m high mountain in the Valais Alps in Switzerland. The mountain, which belongs to the Allalin group, is located south of the Mischabel on the ridge between the Mattertal and the Saas Valley on the soil of the communities of Täsch and Saas-Fee .
geography
North of the Alphubel is the higher Täschhorn , the southernmost peak of the Mischabel, from which it is separated by the Mischabeljoch (3847 m), while the ridge in the south runs less clearly via Alphubeljoch (3771 m) to Feechopf (3888 m) and Allalinhorn . While the terrain slopes down steeply to the west into the Mattertal, the east side is flat and downright lovely compared to its neighbors. The characteristically flat summit of the Alphubel is mostly firn-covered and, in addition to the main summit, has a northern summit with a height of 4188 m, which, however, hardly stands out from the flat summit.
The Alphubel sends a clear, ice-free rock ridge to the west, the Rotgrat , down to the Täschhütte (2701 m), while the north-south main ridge and an unnamed ridge running northeast are largely covered with ice. Due to its considerable height and the relatively small inclination of its slopes are located in the summit area of Alphubel several glaciers : the northwest and west of the summit is the now disintegrated into three ice Weingarten glacier , which until about 3100 reaches down m and the same in the glacier foreland Weingartensee is located. The entire eastern flank is taken up by the Fee Glacier , one of the larger glaciers in the region, which extends over several square kilometers and still almost reaches the valley basin near Saas-Fee. In the southwest, the Alphubel Glacier is the smallest glacier on the summit.
Ascent history
The first ascent took place on August 9, 1860 by TW Hinchliff and Leslie Stephen with the guides Melchior Anderegg , Peter Perren and Franz Andenmatten.
Routes
The morphology of the Alphubel and its proximity to the Saas-Fee mountain railways make the Alphubel one of the comparatively easy-to-climb four-thousand-meter peaks in the Swiss Alps . Nevertheless, all climbs have the character of an alpine tour with all the objective dangers of such.
The normal route leads from Berghaus Längflue (2867 m) above Saas-Fee over the flat but crevice-rich Fee Glacier to the summit. The ascent takes 4–5 hours and is rated WS on the SAC high-altitude tour scale.
Another option with the valley town of Saas-Fee is an alpine tour from Mittelallalin (3457 m), which can be easily reached with the Metro Alpin . From there the ascent leads, e.g. T. over Fels, via Feejoch (3826 m), Feechopf and Alphubeljoch to the summit (also WS, 4h).
From the west, the most famous route leads from Täsch via Täschalp and Täschhütte and from there over the Alphubel glacier and Alphubeljoch over the south-south-east running main ridge ("Eisnase") to the summit. This route takes about 5 hours and is also rated as WS.
Huts and bivouacs
- Täschhütte
- Mountain house Längflue
- Britanniahütte , via Mittelallalin
- possibly Kinhütte
- Mischabeljochbiwak on the eponymous yoke between Alphubel and Täschhorn
literature
- Helmut Dumler, Willi P. Burkhardt: Four-thousanders in the Alps. 12th, updated edition. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2001, ISBN 3-7633-7427-2 .
- Hermann Biner: Alpine tours in Valais. From Trient to the Nufenen Pass . 3. Edition. SAC-Verlag, Bern 2002, ISBN 3-85902-204-0 .
- Michael Waeber: Valais Alps. Area guide for hikers, mountaineers, ski tourers and climbers. The most popular climbs to all important peaks with descriptions of all recommended ski tours . 13th edition. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2003, ISBN 3-7633-2416-X .
