Berlin pancakes

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Berlin pancakes dusted with powdered sugar and injected plum jam

Berliner Pfannkuchen (short: Berliner ) is a fist-sized deep- fried pastry that is fried in fat , consists of sweet yeast dough with a jam filling and is usually dusted with fine sugar or covered with a glaze.

Terms and dissemination

Normal "Berliner" (left in front) and three "Spezial-Berliner"

In the earliest traditions, the pastry is called donut . The word Krapfen is derived from Middle High German  krāpfe  for 'hook, clip' as an abbreviation for 'hook-shaped pastry' and Old High German  krāpho, crāpho  'hook, claw, claw', related to cramp and spasm. Today, however, there is no uniform name for this pastry in the German language and there are many regional synonyms .

preparation

Berlin pancakes with icing

For Berlin pancakes, a sweet yeast dough is made with egg , milk and butter (or other fat). The egg content is relatively high because it reduces the amount of fat that is absorbed during baking.

In the classic method, after the first rising, the dough is rolled out to about the thickness of a finger, cut out round, filled with jam and put together from two parts. The edge is glued with water or egg white. In a further cooking rest, the dough is left to rise again and then fried in fat while being turned occasionally . This creates a collar as a protruding bead at the seam. Today this method is only widespread in the household.

In the method commonly used today, the pancakes are filled with a sweet mass using a piping bag or a special filling device before or after baking . A filling device for filling pancakes with jam only after baking comes from the Wechselburg inventor and inventor Arthur Uhlig. This invention was patented around 1923. The fillings of the Berlin pancake vary from region to region. Besides jam (in the southwest and the north rather jam rotfärbendem fruits such as cherries, strawberries, raspberries, etc., to the east mostly red four-fruit jam, in Bavaria and Austria rather apricot jam ) is also in East Germany plum used in Baden, Swabia and Franconia also hagebuttenmark ( Hiffenmark). Other recipes also contain cream or vanilla cream , nougat or alcohol, for example egg liqueur .

In trade and industry, Berlin pancakes are made directly from a round piece and only filled with special filling machines after baking. The dough is portioned and shaped with semi or fully automatic dough dividing and knitting machines. These donuts are also fried in hot fat and turned twice. The light-colored collar arises because less than half of the dough is immersed in the fat.

After baking, Berlin pancakes are sprinkled with powdery sweet snow (which, unlike powdered sugar, does not melt) or coarse sugar (sweetened), or apricot and glazed, or just dipped or basted in icing ( fondant ) or cocoa-based fat glaze. There are variants in which the icing is flavored with rum ("Rum-Berliner"). There are many other variants with colored and flavored glazes as well as variants in which the icing is sprinkled with sugar or chocolate sprinkles.

variants

Internationally there are several variants in which the pastry is not filled inside, but is cut after baking and the fillings are arranged in them. In the Jewish cuisine is called similar pastries as Sufganiyah .

  • Australia: Renamed Kitchener bun for political reasons during World War I. It consists of a cut Berliner, which is filled with whipped cream .
  • Belgium: The boules de Berlin (French) and Berlijnse bollen (Dutch) available there look similar to German pancakes. However, they are cut through and also filled with plum jam or vanilla cream. In the Netherlands they are called Berliner bollen , or Berlijnse bollen ; Preparation like in Belgium.
  • Brazil: There they are called sonhos (literally "dreams"). They are often filled with goiabada or cream .
  • Bulgaria : In Bulgarian cuisine there are понички (ponichki), which are filled with custard or berry jam.
  • Portugal : "Bola de Berlim" is a typical sweet of the beaches in summer.

regional customs

Berlin pancakes are a traditional pastry for New Year's Eve and Carnival (preferably on Rose Monday and Shrove Tuesday). Then it is a joke custom to fill individual specimens with, for example, mustard , onions or even sawdust instead of jam, without you being able to see it from the outside. As before, on these seasonal occasions there are Berlin pancakes with egg liqueur, chocolate sauce or vanilla pudding filling and egg liqueur icing. Originally, pancakes were only used as a holiday pastry in some regions, but today they are available all year round.

origin

Yeast balls baked in lard are documented in northern Germany as early as the 16th century. Most of the time, however, they were irregularly shaped, left unfilled and baked in the oven. There and in Denmark there are still many different variants of the wort . Nevertheless, various forms of donut are known from ancient times.

According to popular legend, Berlin pancakes were invented in 1756 by a Berlin confectioner who wanted to serve as a gunner under Frederick the Great and proved unfit for military service, but was allowed to stay with the regiment as a field baker. As a “thank you” he created the first “pancakes”, gave the yeast dough pieces the round ball shape of cannon balls and, since no oven was available, baked them over an open fire in pans filled with hot fat.

One of the first reliable records of pancakes with sweet stuffing and fried in fat is Amaranthes' women's lexicon from 1715.

The supra-regional spread of Berlin pancakes went hand in hand with the rise of Berlin as an industrial city and capital of the newly formed German Empire in the second half of the 19th century. The Economic Encyclopedia by Johann Georg Krünitz (published 1778 to 1858) only mentions a rectangular “Nuremberg pancake” made from yeast dough. In the extraordinarily successful “Practical Cookbook” by Henriette Davidis there was a recipe for “Berlin pancakes” as early as 1847. This is a light, oak-rich yeast dough that is filled with various fruit preparations before baking, then fried in clarified butter (without turning the dough pieces) and then sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon. This means that a recipe is already available at this point in time that essentially corresponds to today's type of preparation, the most important difference being the deep-frying fat used. At the end of the 19th century, many nationally oriented cookbooks contain recipes for the preparation of Berlin pancakes, in the New Bourgeois Cookbook by Hedwig Albrecht (published in Dresden in 1896), the recipe is even just headed "Pancakes" in the Berlin style. When the Berlin pancakes were usually offered filled is not yet known - they were at the end of the 19th century.

Web links

Commons : Berliner  - Collection of images, videos and audio files
Commons : Faschingskrapfen  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. The history of the donut. In: ichkoche.at. Retrieved June 21, 2020 .
  2. Duden. In: duden.de. Retrieved June 22, 2020 .
  3. Berliner / Krapfen. In: atlas-alltagsssprache.de. June 15, 2011, accessed December 23, 2018 .
  4. ^ Jürgen Eichhoff: Card 2-61 . In: Word atlas of German colloquial languages . tape I / II . Francke, Berlin 1977.
  5. Faschingskrapfen in the Upper Austrian customs calendar accessed on February 26, 2017
  6. DE369689C - Dough pump. In: patents.google.com. Retrieved December 23, 2018 .
  7. ^ IREKS Arkady Institute for Bakery Science (ed.): IREKS ABC of the bakery. 4th edition. Institute for Bakery Science, Kulmbach 1985.
  8. How the Berliner came to Portugal
  9. Holger Reischock: Inner values . In: Berliner Zeitung . February 23, 2009.
  10. Amaranthes: Usable, gallant and curious lexicon of women , 1715, column 1467 , entry "Pans = cake to make".
  11. Henriette Davidis: Practical cookbook for the common and fine kitchen . 3rd, increased and improved edition. Schaub, Düsseldorf 1874, p. 324 .