Bifertenstock from the west
|location||Canton of Glarus , Switzerland|
|Mountains||Alps ( Glarus Alps )|
|Dominance||2.6 km → Glarner Tödi|
|Notch height||385 m ↓ Biferten gap|
|First ascent||September 7, 1863|
|Normal way||Via the Bänderweg ( WS )|
The Bifertenstock (on Romanesque also Péz or Piz Durschin called) is a high summit of the Glarus Alps in Switzerland . It was first climbed on September 7, 1863 by the journalist and co-founder of the Swiss Alpine Club Abraham Roth , Georg Sand and the factory owner Johann August Raillard-Stähelin with the mountain guide Heinrich Elmer and the porters Christian Vordermann and Jakob Stüssi.
Location and surroundings
The Bifertenstock lies on the border between the cantons of Glarus and Graubünden . Neighboring peaks are the Bündner Tödi in the west , the Piz Frisal in the south at the end of the Val Frisal running to the east and the Hintere Schiben in the northeast .
Routes to the summit
The route of the first to climb from the east, today's normal route , is given as " not very difficult " and takes five hours from the Bifertenhütte . The ascent takes place from the Bifertenhütte via the ribbon path , which is unique in the Alps and begins behind a short, sloping rocky area to be traversed horizontally. The slate band, filled with rubble, lies between two limestone banks in a rock face that is initially around 60 ° . At its end, you have to climb briefly over an initially 40 ° steep, then flatter firn field to the ridge , via which you can easily reach the summit.
- Alfred Amstad : The Akademikerweg on the Bifertenstock (3426 m). In: The Alps. Monthly publication of the Swiss Alpine Club. 18th year, 1942, pp. 316–319.