Great wasteland

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Great wasteland
View from Weng to the Gesäuse entrance, the Great Ödstein far right, the right light-shadow border is the Ödsteinkante (from NW)

View from Weng to the Gesäuse entrance, the Great Ödstein far right, the right light-shadow border is the Ödsteinkante (from NW)

height 2335  m above sea level A.
location Styria , Austria
Mountains Gesäuse , Ennstal Alps
Dominance 1.7 km →  Hochtor
Notch height 182 m ↓  southwest. Haindlkarturm
Coordinates 47 ° 33 '14 "  N , 14 ° 36' 45"  E Coordinates: 47 ° 33 '14 "  N , 14 ° 36' 45"  E
Great Ödstein (Styria)
Great wasteland
rock Dachstein Limestone
Age of the rock Norium
First ascent around 1850 by Johnsbacher Jäger Fehringer, called "Festl"
Normal way Church ridge of Johnsbach , II and I, alpine
Hochtorgruppe, with the Großer Ödstein on the left to the Hochtor on the right, from the Hohe Zinken (from SW)

Hochtorgruppe, with the Großer Ödstein on the left to the Hochtor on the right, from the Hohe Zinken (from SW)

Template: Infobox Berg / Maintenance / BILD1

The Great Ödstein is a mountain with a height of 2335  m above sea level. A. im Gesäuse , Ennstal Alps . With its striking north-west edge, it forms the entrance to the Gesäuses narrow valley with the Großer Buchstein opposite , where the Rotte Gesäuse entrance , which is part of the municipality of Admont, is located immediately to the northwest .

The Große Ödstein is the southwest corner pillar of the long ridge that runs from the Planspitze over the Hochtor to the Ödstein.

First ascent

Although the Großer Ödstein was climbed over the church ridge by the Johnsbach hunter Fehringer, called "Festl", as early as 1850 , he still enjoyed the "call of inaccessibility" for a longer period of time before the Ramsau leader Johann Grill , called Kederbacher, and Josef Pöschl succeeded in the first tourist ascent of the Ödstein over the church ridge. With the first guideless ascent on June 6, 1881, the third in total, the great Gesäus pioneer Heinrich Heß, together with A. Heinzel and G. Kreuzer , also made a note of the ascent history . The first winter ascent and fourth ascent of the church ridge was made by Emil Zsigmondy and Carl Diener on April 3, 1882.

The north-west edge was conquered for the first time on August 25, 1910 by the South Tyrolean guides Angelo Dibona and Luigi Rizzi and the two brothers Guido and Max Mayer from Vienna. Finally, on June 8, 1928, Hubert Peterka and Franz Schaffler succeeded in climbing the flat north face in the first attempt using classic climbing.

Routes

  • Kirchengrat : normal ascent, difficulty level II and I, 850 meters in altitude, from Johnsbach a remarkable 1600 meters in altitude .
  • Northwest edge (also Ödsteinkante ): V and IV + (two pitches), otherwise III, 805 meters in altitude.
  • Direct north face : V (places), IV, 675 meters in altitude.
  • Crossing the entire ridge from the Großer Ödstein to the Hochtor via Teufelsturm, Festkogel, Festkogelturm, Haindlkarwand, first climbed by Emil Zsigmondy, O. Fischer and L. Friedmann on June 3, 1884, is one of the generous journeys in the Gesäuse with a lower level of difficulty ( 2 digits III-, III + when crossing the Teufelsturm, II and I). Due to the long ascent via the Kirchengrat and the descent to the Hesshütte , the tour places high demands on the fitness of the hikers. The crossing can also be done in the opposite direction.

geology

The summit of the Großer Ödstein is formed from Dachstein limestone, to the north and east of the summit the main dolomite also extends high, followed by Dachstein dolomite and Raibler layers . The base of the mountain range, especially on the west side down to the Johnsbach valley, is formed by Wetterstein dolomite, which still contains relics of Wetterstein limestone.

literature

  • Willi End : Gesäuse mountains. A guide for valleys, huts and mountains (= Alpine Club Guide. Nördliche Kalkalpen series. ). Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, Munich 1988, ISBN 3-7633-1248-X .
  • Josef Hasitschka, Ernst Kren, Adolf Mokrejs: The Ödstein. A king among kings in the Gesäuse. Schall-Verlag, Alland 2010, ISBN 978-3-900533-61-8 ( online ).

Web links

Commons : Großer Ödstein  - Collection of images, videos and audio files