Rear Gubachspitze
| Rear Gubachspitze | ||
|---|---|---|
 The Hintere Gubachspitze in the middle of the Umbalkee seen from the rearmost Umbal Valley (west) |
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| height | 3387 m above sea level A. | |
| location | East Tyrol , Austria | |
| Mountains | Venediger group | |
| Dominance | 0.67 km → Western Simonyspitze | |
| Notch height | 69 m ↓ Scharte to the west. Simonyspitze | |
| Coordinates | 47 ° 3 '51 " N , 12 ° 15' 28" E | |
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| First ascent | August 1, 1887 by K. Schulze and Josef Auer | |
| Normal way | From the Essen-Rostocker Hütte over the Reggentörl to the northwest flank and finally over the southwest ridge ( I ) | |
The Hintere Gubachspitze , formerly Goupachspitze , ( 3387 m above sea level ) is the highest mountain peak of the Maurerkamm in the Venediger group in East Tyrol ( Austria ). It is located in the north of the municipality of Prägraten am Großvenediger . Neighboring peaks are the Vordere Gubachspitze in the southeast and the Western Simonyspitze in the northeast.
location
The small rock horn of the Hinteren Gubachspitze protrudes only slightly from the Umbalkees to the west, but has a mighty northeast face to the Simonykees to the east . The Hintere Gubachspitze lies between the Maurerkammscharte ( 3371 m above sea level ) in the north and the Vorderen Gubachspitze in the southeast. At the summit, the north ridge, the west ridge, the northeast flank, the southwest face and the northeast face meet, with the southeast ridge running to the Vorderen Gubachspitze and the eastern spur running to the Simonykees. The eastern spur represents a sharp, edge-like limb of the southeast ridge. East of the rear Gubachspitze lies the rearmost Maurertal valley , in the southeast the rearmost Umbal valley .
history
The Hintere Gubachspitze was first climbed on August 1st, 1887 by K. Schulze and Josef Auer over the north ridge, whereby the first climbers used the northwest flank for the descent. On August 5th of the same year, the northwest flank also served C. Rößler and Josef Auer for the first time as an ascent to the Hintere Gubachspitze. The south-west face was conquered for the first time on September 29, 1904 by I. Hechenbleikner, K. Berger and E. Franzelin, with this rope team descending on the south-east ridge. On July 8, 1926, H. Peterka and H. Mayer used the Ostsporn as an ascent route. The crossing of the south-west ridge and the south-west face in the descent, however, only succeeded on July 27, 1952 F. Bassi and A. Kröll.
Promotion opportunities
The normal route to the Hintere Gubachsitze leads from the Essener-Rostocker Hütte on the initially marked trail to the Reggentörl, with the last 350 meters above the Simonykees. The further ascent runs around the Reggentörlturm and under the Vorderen Gubachspitze and the southwest ridge of the Hinteren Gubachspitze until you reach its northwest flank. Then the final ascent takes place over the glacier and finally with easy climbing over the southwest ridge to the summit ( I ).
The entry via the southwest ridge ( II ) is at the deepest ridge foot at an apron conveyor, whereby an overhang must first be climbed upwards. This is followed by further overhangs, some of which are climbed through a channel, whereby the channel ends at a ridge flank flanked by two towers. After climbing over the ridge tower, another tower follows, which can also be bypassed on the right. Then there are only a few more pitches along the ridge to the summit. The ascent over the south-west face takes place from the highest firn angle in the summit fall line in an edge gorge and over this into the south-west face, whereby the ascent takes place initially through a channel and then over snow fields and slabs. The descent over the south-west face takes place through gutters and chimneys one pitch next to the summit (both variants II ). The ascent over the north ridge ( II ) requires a longer path over the Umbalkees, with the ascent from Reggentörl to the base of the south-west ridge ( 3215 m above sea level ) and further to the northwest to a flat firn floor ( 3205 m above sea level ). as well as subsequently leading to the Maurerkammscharte. From here you follow the north ridge over a wide firn ridge or large gneiss boulders to the summit. The southeast ridge ( III- ) is more difficult to complete, with the entry from Reggentörl on Umballkees via the notch between the Gubach peaks. Then the ascent follows the southeast ridge up to an overhang, which is climbed through a crack on the left. Then follow a narrow band back to the ridge and climb the summit at its edge. The most difficult designated variant is the ascent of the Ostsporn ( III + ). Starting from the Dellacher Keesfleckken, the Simonykees is committed and the Ostsporn is reached via numerous crevices, which is then climbed over an overhanging crack, a horn-shaped spike and solid blocks.
literature
- Georg Zlöbl: The three thousand meter peaks of East Tyrol in the Hohe Tauern National Park . Verlag Grafik Zloebl, Lienz-Tristach 2007, ISBN 3-200-00428-2 .
- Willi End / Hubert Peterka : Alpine Club Leader Venediger Group ; Bergverlag Rudolf Rother ; 4th edition 1994; ISBN 3-7633-1242-0 .
- Alpine Club Map 1: 25,000, sheet 36, Venediger Group , ISBN 3-928777-49-1 .
