Front Gubachspitze

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Front Gubachspitze
The Vordere Gubachspitze (center) above the Simonykees.  Next to it the Reggenspitze, the Reggentörlturm and the Reggentörl (from right to left)

The Vordere Gubachspitze (center) above the Simonykees. Next to it the Reggenspitze, the Reggentörlturm and the Reggentörl (from right to left)

height 3316  m above sea level A.
location East Tyrol , Austria
Mountains Venediger group
Dominance 0.43 km →  Hintere Gubachspitze
Notch height 94 m ↓  notch to the rear Gubachspitze
Coordinates 47 ° 3 '32 "  N , 12 ° 15' 32"  E Coordinates: 47 ° 3 '32 "  N , 12 ° 15' 32"  E
Vordere Gubachspitze (Tyrol)
Front Gubachspitze
First ascent around 1854 by Andreas Berger and surveyor
Normal way From the Essener-Rostocker Hütte over the Reggentörl to the south-west flank and finally over the south-west ridge ( I )
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The Vordere Gubachspitze , formerly Goupachspitze , ( 3316  m above sea level ) is a mountain peak of the Maurerkamm in the Venediger Group in East Tyrol ( Austria ). It is located in the north of the municipality of Prägraten am Großvenediger . Neighboring peaks are the Hintere Gubachspitze in the north and the Reggenspitze in the south.

location

The Vordere Gubachspitze forms a small rock triangle over the ridge of the Umbalkee in the west , while in the east it breaks off steeply to the Simonykees. The north ridge connects the Vordere Gubachspitze with the Hinteren Gubachspitze ( 3392  m above sea level ) via a firn gap , the south ridge runs like a ridge over the Reggenspitze ( 3230  m above sea level ) to the Reggentörl ( 3056  m above sea level ). In addition to the north and east ridge, the Vordere Gubachspitze also has a south-west ridge to the Umbalkees and an east ridge to the Simonykees . East of the Vorderen Gubachspitze lies the rearmost Maurertal , in the southeast the rearmost Umbaltal .

History and career opportunities

The Vordere Gubachspitze was first climbed around 1854 by surveyors with Andreas Berger. The summit received its first tourist visit on August 1, 1887, when K. Schulze and Josef Auer climbed the Hintere Gubachspitze and also climbed the Vordere Gubachspitze via the southwest ridge. The north ridge was first climbed on July 8, 1926 by H. Peterka and H. Majer, who also descended the east ridge for the first time.

The normal route to the Vordere Gubachsitze leads from the Essener-Rostocker Hütte on the initially marked trail to the Reggentörl, with the last 350 meters in altitude leading over the Simonykees. The further ascent runs around the Reggentörlturm to the southwest flank and finally on the south ridge to the summit ( I ). The entrance to the north ridge is on the Firnsattel between the Gubach peaks, whereby you first follow the sharp rock ridge. The rock ridge has some airy climbing spots, which can, however, be bypassed on the west side before the steep summit exit follows ( II ). The east ridge is ideal for the descent, whereby you first climb deeper over flat rocks until the ridge breaks off with a short steep wall. Then you follow down a chimney and return to the ridge on a ribbon. After one step you reach the Ostgratauslauf ( II ).

literature

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