Kaisersemmel

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Kaisersemmel

The Kaisersemmel (also Kaiserweck (en) , Kaiserbrötchen or Sternsemmel ) is a crust-rich, crispy (crispy), star-shaped white pastry originally from Austria . As with other white pastries, the minimum baking weight is 46 g, smaller shapes are called jourgebacks . Variants weighing up to 80 g are also available. In contrast to the hand-made Viennese Kaisersemmel , generally shorter production steps, the use of machines and the addition of rye flour to the wheat flour are possible.

Origin and meaning

The Kaisersemmel at the festive court table in Vienna. Martin van Meytens, after 1760.

Who is the inventor of the Kaisersemmel cannot be determined without a doubt. Some bear the name on Kaiser Friedrich III. back, who had rolls baked with his portrait in 1487.

According to another version, a Viennese baker named Kayser is said to have invented the Kayser roll around 1730. He recognized the taste improvement by increasing the crust portion.

According to another story, the price and weight of bread rolls were regulated in a statute in the 18th century. However, the bakers could hardly make a profit due to the high price of flour. In 1789, the bakers' guild sent a delegation to Emperor Joseph II to ask for free pricing for the bread roll . The emperor was so impressed by the craftsmanship of the bakers that he approved the deletion of the roll from the statutes and from then on the roll was called the Kaisersemmel.

According to other accounts, since the reign of Emperor Franz Joseph I from 1848 to 1916, the term "Kaiser" in connection with food and drinks was soon seen as the highest increase, which was considered the best of its kind.

Another possible origin of the name is the derivation of the Italian "a la casa" ("after the style of the house").

Regardless of the uncertain origin of the name, there is evidence that the Kaisersemmel itself already existed at the court of Maria Theresa in the 18th century. Emperor rolls can be recognized in a painting by the court painter Martin van Meytens from the period between 1760 and 1770. The painting, which is located in Schönbrunn Palace , shows the court table in the Great Antecamera of the Vienna Hofburg .

At the Paris World's Fair in 1867 , the Kaisersemmel gained international fame. In the 19th century, someone in Vienna was considered poor if they did not eat Kaiser rolls, but instead "Mundsemmel [n] or even Schusterlabel" (Schusterlaberln, -laiberln).

Wiener Kaisersemmel

The Wiener Kaisersemmel (also hand roll ) is a variant of the Kaisersemmel. In the Austrian food book it is defined as "white pastries" in Codex chapter B 18 "Baked products", sub-chapter "Pastries (small baked goods)". It is a hand-knitted, crust-rich, crisp, star-shaped biscuit made of wheat. It is characterized by a long dough that must take at least two hours. It is widespread in Austria, especially in Vienna . It was also included in the register of traditional foods of the Ministry of Life for all of Austria, especially Vienna.

There are two options for making breadcrumb dough: direct (one-step) or indirect (step-by-step) dough production. A pre-dough (mixture of flour, water and yeast) is prepared before the main dough is prepared. This is then mixed with flour and other ingredients to make the main dough. The dough temperature should be around 25 ° C.

Traditionally, the dough is slowly kneaded by hand until the dough has a smooth surface. With the help of machines, the ingredients are mixed and the dough is then intensively kneaded. The dough is loosened during the rest of the dough that follows for a total of two hours. During this resting time, the dough is pushed together four times. The dough is then immediately weighed out and shaped in such a way that a smooth surface is created. In technical terms, this means that the dough is "ground". The dough weight of a roll is around 56 g. Dust the ground pieces with flour and roll them back and forth with both hands. The molds are covered and given a short rest period of around 15 minutes.

For molding (shaping) by hand, light rye flour is recommended: the five parts of the bread roll, the so-called lye, tear better and the star of the roll becomes more beautiful. In addition, the incorporated flour caramelises during baking and is an important flavor carrier. The star-shaped incisions cause a higher proportion of crust and are responsible for the "cracking" when breaking apart.

After resting, the dough piece is tapped into a round spot and then the lye is shaped by hand. The dough is compacted with it. The result is the juicy, compact interior of the hand roll, which is reminiscent of cotton wool . Finally, the first and last lye are firmly pressed together. The rolls formed in this way are placed on a cloth with the star facing down. The rolls are covered and flattened a little. Before baking, the rolls are lightly moistened with water.

Recipe component in Austrian cuisine

The Kaisersemmel is part of various recipes in Austrian cuisine . These include bread dumplings , bread roll, bread soup , breadcrumbs soup or blunze . In the breading of Wiener Schnitzel , breadcrumbs are used, which are traditionally made from Kaiser rolls in Austrian bakeries.

Austrian supermarkets offer breadcrumbs that are advertised with pictures of Kaiser rolls.

Others

The phrase "crack like a roll" in Austria means "almost broke".

In the Austrian crime series Kommissar Rex , the four-legged lead actor's preference for Kaiser rolls with extra sausage is a running gag .

The prices of standard black and white bread and bread rolls were officially regulated in Austria as a staple food until around 1965. Prices were raised at irregular intervals. The price sequence for the bread roll (defined baking weight; long or round bread roll) contained 55 - 60 - 62 groschen after 1960 . The 62 g price was an anachronism , since otherwise there were no more uneven prices in retail. Even prices that ended in 5 groschen were rare at the time, in order to simplify totaling on the invoice pad and giving out (change). 1-groschen coins were extremely rare, officially 1-Reichspfennig coins were of the same value (and largely shaped in the same way); 2 groschen were also rare. Merchants therefore often rounded the final amount to the next round 5 or 10 groschen, or gave out a stollwerck (caramel chewing sugar in folded paper) with a retail value of 10 groschen.

literature

  • Richard Havel, Josef E. Stöger: Special expertise for bakers. Österreichischer Gewerbeverlag, Vienna 1984, ISBN 3-85207-762-1 , pp. 104, 111.
  • Hans-Ludwig Janßen, Udo Saalfeld, Alfred Mar u. a .: Textbook of the bakery. Trauner Verlag, Linz 2007, ISBN 978-3-85499-201-1 , pp. 261-266, 276f., 282f, 893-894.
  • Heinz Dieter Pohl : From apple strudel to stewed plums. Small handbook of the Austrian kitchen language. Verlag Carl Ueberreuter, Vienna 2008, ISBN 978-3-8000-7369-6 , p. 58.
  • Claus Schünemann, Günter Treu u. a .: Technology of baked goods production . Specialized textbook for bakers. 9th edition. Gildefachverlag, Alfeld / Leine 2005, ISBN 3-7734-0150-7 , pp. 67, 89, 100–102, limited preview in the Google book search.
  • Gerd Wolfgang Sievers: Austria, a land of pleasure. What kitchen and cellar have to offer. Leopold Stocker Verlag, Graz 2007, ISBN 978-3-7020-1166-6 , p. 292.

Movies

  • One morning in Vienna. About bakers and bakeries. Documentary, Austria, 2009, 22:45 min., Script and director: Hermann Sternath, production: ORF , series: Österreich-Bild , matinee , first broadcast: January 11, 2009 on ORF2 , summary by ORF2, ( memento from January 21 2018 in the Internet Archive ). Video clip about the preparation of the hand roll.
    “... about machine rolls and the coveted hand roll, which for many is the queen of the pastry range. How should, may, must it be? "

Web links

Commons : Kaisersemmel  - collection of pictures, videos and audio files
Wiktionary: Kaisersemmel  - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations

Videos

Individual evidence

  1. a b 2.2.2. White biscuits ( Memento from July 15, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) (PDF; 197 kB) in the Austrian Food Book, Codex Chapter B 18, subsection 2.2.2 White biscuits.
  2. a b c Stefan Hebenstreit: Hitlerweck and Kaisersemmel. Campaign gifts and political propaganda devotional items from the oven. In: Thomas Gimesi, Werner Hanselitsch (Ed.), Giving, Taking, Tausch , Lit, Münster 2010, ISBN 978-3-643-50211-7 , pp. 73-88, p. 74, reference , cites this source in Brockhaus, 1888.
  3. The Dioscuri. First General Association of Officials of the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, Gerold, Volume 17, Vienna 1888, p. 446.
  4. Joseph Wechsberg , Ruth Brandon: The lost world of the great spas. Harper & Row, New York 1979, ISBN 0060145846 , p. 121, limited preview in Google Book Search.
    German edition: Joseph Wechsberg, An almost forgotten world ; With a chapter on American seaside resorts by Ruth Brandon; Heimeran, Munich 1980, ISBN 978-3-7765-0287-9 .
  5. a b c d Kaisersemmel . Entry No. 164 in the register of traditional foods of the Austrian Federal Ministry for Agriculture, Regions and Tourism .
  6. Rudolf von Gottschall, Friedrich Bienemann: Our time: German review of the present. Monthly for the conversation lexicon. Second volume, editor August Kurtzel. Verlag FA Brockhaus, Leipzig 1888, p. 417: reference point ; see: Schusterlaberln. In: Leaves for regional studies of Lower Austria , 1865.
  7. Video: Production of hand rolls from Alexander Schukoff film.
  8. ^ Franz Maier-Bruck : Classic Austrian cuisine . Seehamer Verlag, Weyarn, 2003, ISBN 978-3-932131-98-1 , pp. 533-535.
  9. Bread soup is prepared like a classic bread soup in Lower Austria . Only rolls are used instead of black bread. In contrast to the breadcrumbs , where bread rolls are also part of the recipe , no eggs are used here. In Styria , bread soup has always been given to women who have recently given birth . Cf. Franz Maier-Bruck: From eating in the country. Classic farmer's cuisine and home-style cooking . Book publishers Kremayr and Scheriau / Orac, Vienna 2006, ISBN 978-3-7015-0493-0 , p. 147 and p. 366.
  10. Yes! Breadcrumbs, of course, at shop.billa.at
  11. Spar breadcrumbs on spar-zillertal.at
  12. Breadcrumbs / breadcrumbs for Wiener Schnitzel, Ankerbrot, Vienna on spiceworld.at
  13. crack like an emperor's roll • to be almost broke. In: Ostarrichi .org .
  14. APA : Companies are cracking like emperor rolls. In: Die Presse , December 5, 2008.