schnitzel

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schnitzel

Wiener Schnitzel is a thin, breaded and fried schnitzel made from veal . It is one of the most famous specialties of Viennese cuisine . Schnitzel from other types of meat are also colloquially referred to as if they are prepared in Viennese breading . In a common variant, pork is also used and the dish is then referred to as "Schnitzel Wiener Art" or "Wiener Schnitzel vom Schwein".

History and origin of name

The name "Wiener Schnitzel" was coined in the 19th century, it can already be found in Maria Anna Neudecker's very latest general cookbook from 1831 as "Wiener Schnitzel from veal". In the then widespread cookbook Die Süddeutsche Küche by Grazerin Katharina Prato , the dish was listed under the “veal schnitzel” in the 26th edition of 1897, but only referred to as “crumbled schnitzels”. In the 34th edition of 1903, the expression "Wiener Schnitzel" can be found as a subsequent alternative name; The Upper German diminutive "Schnitzel" is, unlike Neudecker, only used in this name, otherwise Schnitzchen is used throughout.

The Wiener Schnitzel possibly goes back to the Cotoletta alla milanese in Northern Italy , which is similarly prepared from slightly thicker chops and found its way to Vienna in the 14th or 15th century . However, this hypothesis has not been proven.

Legend has it that Field Marshal Radetzky brought the recipe back from Italy in 1857 . In 2007, however, the linguist Heinz-Dieter Pohl conclusively demonstrated that this story was made up. According to Pohl, Radetzky was only associated with schnitzel in 1969 in the Italian gastronomy guide Guida gastronomica d'Italia , which appeared in German in 1971 under the title Italien tafelt . There it was claimed that it was actually the cotoletta alla milanese ; it had never been mentioned in Austria before. A Count Attems, adjutant of the Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph , passed on a report by Radetzky on the situation in Lombardy and mentioned a delicious breaded veal chop in a side note. After Radetzky's return, the emperor personally asked him for the recipe. Pohl comments on this anecdote with the words: “Scientifically, this story is irrelevant, it does not contain any sources and it is not mentioned in the literature by and about Radetzky […]. In no biographical work about the monarchy does a Count Attems appear who corresponded to this time and position. ”Pohl doubts that Wiener Schnitzel was even taken over from Italy and justifies this by the fact that other“ imported dishes ”in Austrian cuisine always use the original term was retained, even if in Germanized form, for example with goulash or pancakes , and the schnitzel is not mentioned in special cookbooks on Italian cuisine. He also points out that even before the schnitzel, there were several dishes in Viennese cuisine that were breaded and baked in fat, above all the well-known fried chicken , which was first mentioned in a cookbook in 1719. At the end of the 19th century, the schnitzel that was prepared in the same way was called Wiener Schnitzel , analogous to the Viennese fried chicken .

As early as 1879, Prato mentioned several Italian dishes such as macaroni , risi e bisi and risotto , but no cotoletta . Sometimes the equally unoccupied variant is mentioned that a Byzantine princess brought the breaded and baked schnitzel to the Babenberger Hof in Vienna.

preparation

For the preparation, folded out in a butterfly cut , about four millimeters thin and lightly pounded veal schnitzel from the leg, such as. B. Frikandeau , lightly salted, turned first in flour, then in beaten egg and finally in freshly grated breadcrumbs . The crumbs must not be pressed on so that the breading stays dry and can "prompt", ie the schnitzel is only loosely wrapped after baking. Then the schnitzels are immediately baked in plenty of lard or clarified butter in the pan at 160–170 ° C until golden yellow. The schnitzel must float in the fat, otherwise they will not cook evenly: The fat cools down too much and penetrates the breading, making it greasy. During baking, the schnitzel is gently swept back and forth in the pan several times - due to the hot fat on the top, the breading does not lie completely on the meat and thus rises a little. In addition, during the baking process, you can use a spoon to repeatedly scoop fat from the pan onto the top of the schnitzel. After the underside is baked golden yellow, the schnitzel is turned over and baked to the end.

Traditionally, Wiener Schnitzel in Austria was only served with head salad ( lettuce ), potato salad ( potato salad ), cucumber salad and parsley potatoes , today rice , French fries or fried potatoes are also common. The set has also changed over time. At the beginning of the 20th century, capers and anchovies were used in the kuk Hofmundküche to feed the court. Today a garnish consisting of a lemon wedge or wedge and a bunch of parsley is common.

Similar dishes

A popular variant is made from the much cheaper pork instead of veal. In order to avoid misleading consumers by simulating a higher quality product, the Austrian and German food guidelines stipulate that a product called "Wiener Schnitzel" must consist of veal. For the pork variant, "Schnitzel Wiener Art" or "Wiener Schnitzel vom Schwein" has become established.

The Arnsberg Administrative Court had to decide in 2009 on the admissibility of the latter variant in Germany . In its judgment, the court took the view that, at least in Germany, there was no general opinion that a “Wiener Schnitzel” had to consist exclusively of veal. Rather, the majority of consumers in Germany generally understand this to be breaded schnitzel.

Also comparable to Wiener Schnitzel are surschnitzel made from sur meat ( cured meat ) and breaded turkey or chicken schnitzel. In addition to the cotoletta alla milanese, the stuffed cordon bleu schnitzel and the Parisian schnitzel with breading only from egg and flour are prepared in a similar way .

In Japan there is a similar dish called Tonkatsu .

literature

  • Ingrid Haslinger: Development stages of some typical dishes of Viennese cuisine. In: Julia Danielczyk, Isabella Wasner-Peter (ed.): “Today the table has to bend completely”. Viennese cuisine and their cookbooks . Mandelbaum-Verlag, Vienna 2007, ISBN 978-3-85476-246-1 , pp. 11–48 (catalog of the exhibition of the same name in Vienna City Hall , October 18, 2007 to May 9, 2008).
  • Richard Zahnhausen: The Wiener Schnitzel. Structure and history of an everyday dish. In: Viennese history sheets. Vol. 56 (2001), No. 2, pp. 132-146, ISSN  0043-5317 .

Web links

Commons : Wiener Schnitzel  - Collection of Images
Wiktionary: Wiener Schnitzel  - explanations of meanings, word origins, synonyms, translations

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Maria Anna Neudecker: Very recent general cookbook . Prague 1831, p. 48 ( limited preview in Google Book Search [accessed October 21, 2014]).
  2. ↑ Katharina Prato: The South German Kitchen . 26th edition. Styria, Graz 1897, p. 253 ( austrian literature online [accessed October 21, 2014]).
  3. ↑ Katharina Prato: The South German Kitchen . 34th edition. Styria, Graz 1903, p. 274 ( Internet Archive [accessed October 21, 2014]).
  4. ↑ Stol.it: The Wiener Schnitzel does not come from Milan ( Memento from September 27, 2007 in the Internet Archive )
  5. ↑ http://members.chello.at/heinz.pohl/Wiener_Schnitzel.htm or http://members.chello.at/heinz.pohl/Wiener%20Schnitzel_Ursprung.htm
  6. ^ A b c Heinz-Dieter Pohl: The Austrian kitchen language. A lexicon of typical Austrian culinary specialties (with linguistic explanations) . Praesens-Verlag, Vienna 2007, ISBN 3-7069-0452-7 , ( Studia interdisciplinaria Ænipontana 11), p. 154 ff.
  7. ^ Heinz-Dieter Pohl: The Austrian kitchen language. A lexicon of typical Austrian culinary specialties (with linguistic explanations) . Praesens-Verlag, Vienna 2007, ISBN 3-7069-0452-7 , ( Studia interdisciplinaria Ænipontana 11), p. 155.
  8. ↑ Heinz-Dieter Pohl: On the Bavarian-Austrian kitchen language (PDF; 283 kB)
  9. ^ Friedrich Hampel - kuk Hofkoch, Lucullus. Handbook of Viennese Culinary Art , 1. – 3. Edition, Vienna 1915, recipe no. 147
  10. ↑ Judgment: Pork schnitzel may still be called “Wiener Schnitzel vom Schwein” from November 10, 2009, accessed on March 24, 2020.