Mustau

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Mustau
height 3840  m
location China ( Xinjiang ) and Kazakhstan
Mountains Saur Mountains
Dominance 269 ​​km →  Nairamdal
Notch height 3252 m
Coordinates 47 ° 2 '54 "  N , 85 ° 33' 58"  E Coordinates: 47 ° 2 '54 "  N , 85 ° 33' 58"  E
Mustau (Xinjiang)
Mustau
particularities unclimbed mountain with the greatest notch height
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The Mustau (also Muz Tau or Muztau , Kazakh for Iceberg ; chinese  木斯岛山 , Pinyin Mùsīdǎo Shān ; Kazakh / Russian Сауыр жотасы , Saýyr Jotasy , engl transcription. Sauyr Zhotasy not used locally) is the highest mountain in the Saur Mountains , to the border between China and Kazakhstan .

height

With an altitude of 3840 or 3835 (1983) m, it is also the highest mountain in the Saur Tarbagatai mountain range, which is itself part of the Tian Shan . Because the Saur Mountains in the northeast by the Irtyschtal from Altai and in the southwest by the Dzungarian Gate from Djungarian Alatau , two higher mountains, is disconnected, the Mustau with 3252 m has a large saddle height . This makes it one of the 70 most prominent mountains in the world, the 30 most prominent Asia and the ten most prominent Central Asia (4th place according to the UNSD definition). Behind the Dschengisch Tschokusu and the Bogda Feng it is also the third most prominent mountain in the Tian Shan area; also the eight most prominent in China and the most prominent mountain in Kazakhstan. It is also one of the highest mountains in Kazakhstan.

geography

The summit of Mustau is located 600 m east of the border in China's Xinjiang Region , Ili District , Tacheng Governorate and Hoboksar County , 200 m from the Jeminay District border of Altay Governorate . Geographically, it is located in the Djungarian region , north of the Djungarian basin. The north and east flanks of the mountain are flatly glaciated, the snow reaches 100 m to the summit and does not melt in summer. A river rises just a few hundred meters south. The nearest place is Hoboksar 29 km away in the southeast, in the southwest it is 31 km to Tiebukenwusanxuang and in the northeast it is 36 km to Biesitierekexiang . The closest place in Kazakhstan is Saryterek in East Kazakhstan , Saissan County , 57 km northwest. 100 km to the northwest is the Saissansee . The Mustau is only 120 km from the Eurasian Pole of Inaccessibility .

Attempts to climb

The Mustau has been the most prominent unclimbed mountain on earth since 2014 (first ascent of Mount Boising ). A Russian expedition explored the Saur Mountains in 2008 and reached the western sub-peak. In 2017, the Australian Ed Hannam climbed the eastern minor summit of the Mustau, Mitch Murray lagged a little before that. During a second attempt at first ascent in 2018, Ed Hannam, Eric Kowalski, Alex Tang, Libor Jelenek and Wayne Stanley turned back 100 m below the summit due to weather conditions. Ascents are difficult due to the Chinese border guards, although the mountain itself is not a major mountaineering challenge.

Individual evidence

  1. Sauyr Zhotasy 2018, the North Buttress route. Almost. , Ascent report, September 13, 2019.
  2. Sauyr Zhotasy, Kazakhstan / China on peak excavators
  3. ^ The Central Asian Republics Ultra Prominence Page , Peaklist.org
  4. Placement in lists of Peakbagger: Most Prominent Mountains in the World , Asia , Central Asia and the Tien Shan .
  5. Tallest Mountains In Kazakhstan , worldatlas
  6. Geographical information from Google Maps and OpenStreetMap .
  7. Virgin Peaks: The World's Unclimbed Mountains , Atlas and Boots, February 17, 2018 (7th Sauyr Zhotasy)
  8. Ed Hannam: Sauyr Zhotasy East, First Known Ascent , American Alpine Club, 2018
  9. ^ Ed Hannam: Muz Tau (Sauyr Zhotasy), Attempt from the Northeast , American Alpine Club, 2019
  10. Sauyr Zhotasy East. First Documented Ascent , Ice Climbing Japan, September 12, 2017.