Shoe model

A shoe model is a certain type of shoe that differs from other types of shoes by optical or functional features . If the visible features (shapes, materials) are the same, it is the same shoe model ; if they clearly differ from each other, it is a different shoe model . Most of these features are on a shoe upper limit designated shoe upper. Characteristics of the shoe bottom, such as the shape or height of the heel, are rarely used to differentiate between different shoe models.

history

All shoe models that exist today are based on a small number of basic models , most of which were developed in the 19th century. At this time, shoe fashion began to develop differently in terms of the number of available models and qualitative differences. In earlier times there was even already fads in the field of footwear ( toed shoes , Kuhmaulschuhe ), but these were relatively the same for all buyers and proven over many decades. It wasn't until the 19th century that things began to change: the first fashion journals came up, industrial shoe production created new models or model variants to stand out from the handmade shoes, and the dandies of that time set new trends. For the first time, the women's skirts became shorter, so that the shoes also came more into focus. Improved manufacturing processes such as invisible steel reinforcements for the bottom of the shoe (steel hinge spring from Salvatore Ferragamo ), new tanning techniques ( chrome tanning ) and thus new possibilities for leather coloring, the emergence of haute couture and other developments led to a previously unknown variety of models.

Definitions and demarcations

There are various ways to differentiate and classify shoe types. But this does not necessarily lead to a breakdown according to shoe models. For example, rich simple distinctions in three basic models such as sandal , shoe and boot is not sufficient to do justice to the variety of different models.
Even a classification based on cultural-historical criteria and differentiating between five basic models (sandals, moccasins or opanke , boots, slippers and loafers) does not go far enough .
The division into eight shoe model categories is also common : pumps , oxfords, sandals, boots, moccasins, loafers , buckle shoes and clogs .

The latter distinction is the shoe model reality already much closer, although not nearly captured the number of really existing shoe models, not to mention their subgroups. In fact, the categorization turns out to be very problematic in the professional world. If you differentiate, for example, according to the type of shoe fastening (loafer, monk strap, lace-up shoe ), that doesn't help in the end. You won't notice a closure in either women's pumps or moccasins, but despite this same criterion, they are fundamentally different types of shoes. But regardless of the various attempts at categorization, there is consensus on the definition of the respective shoe models. A rubber boots is always a rubber boots and a hiking boot always a hiking boot .

criteria

If you consider the criteria that lead to the different models, these are primarily differences in the shaft area. For example, the presence of a shoe fastener distinguishes slip-on shoes ( pumps , loafers and moccasins ) from other models (lace-up shoes, buckled shoes, etc.). Floor characteristics are also seldom decisive for the distinction (example: a slip-on shoe with heel is a pumps or a loafer , without a heel is a moccasin ).

Cap-toe oxford

Black blucher with shaft made from one piece of leather

Black derby, Goodyear welted with rubber sole

This is explained using the example of Oxford (French Richelieus) , a classic men's shoe model that is considered the most elegant shoe model for a suit:

Lacing criterion:

If it is a so-called closed lacing, is the shoe model an Oxford, if it is an open lacing, the shoe model is called a Blücher or Derby . The term open (or closed) has nothing to do with a tied (or not tied) bow, but rather refers to the shaft cut, where the V-shaped converging closure parts end under the front part of the Oxford, while they are T-shaped in the Derby are open to the front.

Shaft height criterion (e.g. pumps / loafers, low shoes, booties, boots, shaft boots, etc.)

one and the same shaft cut can be, for example, an oxford shoe or an oxford boot, depending on the height (one ends in the crook of the foot, the other is at least above the ankle)

Shank section criterion (number of shank parts and their arrangement to one another)

If the entire outer shoe consists of only one piece of leather, it is called a wholecut or one piece Oxford . If at least the front part is seamless, this is called a smooth Oxford or, as a technical term, a plain Oxford . The otherwise identically cut Oxford cap-toe, however, has an additional cross-cap over the toes.

Criterion decorations (hole decorations - so-called broguing , upper part edges, shoe decorations in the form of metal applications, etc.)

If the above-mentioned cap-toe Oxford still has an ornamental hole decoration on the transverse cap, it is a half brogue Oxford . If, on the other hand, there are other decorations on the upper part edges and if the cross cap is extended like a wing on the sides of the shoe (so-called wing cap), it is a so-called full brogue Oxford ; If it extends to the rear shaft seam on the heel (heel seam), the shoe model is called Longwing .

Models of women's shoes

Colloquially: pumps (strictly speaking no pumps, as there is no one-piece shaft)

Ladies' standard dance shoe as deux-pieces

Sandal

Shoe models for women have in part developed from men's shoes ( pumps and D'Orsay). In general, women aim for a more feminine appearance. This is done through individual features or a combination of these:

Shoe decorations (e.g. decorative bows attached to the shaft),
thinner straps (so-called straps, for example in sandals),
higher heels (as in the case of the mule in contrast to the slipper intended for men),
a larger selection of colors and materials for the uppers (men's shoes are predominantly black or brown and consist of simply top-dyed or dyed-through cowhide or calf leather),
wider cut-out shafts (the feet are more exposed than in men's shoes, see ballerina .)
production on so-called women's lasts, which are based not only on the size but also on the shape of the woman's foot.

Special women's shoe models emerged increasingly at the end of the 19th century, when the skirts / dresses became shorter and even allowed a view of the shoes. Well-known designers created new models or variants of them. Women's shoe models and women's shoe fashion only become possible through the work of well-known designers. A small selection of well-known names: Manolo Blahnik , Jimmy Choo , Robert Clergerie, Patrick Cox, Ann Demeulemeester, David Evins, Salvatore Ferragamo , Bernard Figueroa, Maud Frizon, Emma Hope, Charles Jourdan, Behnaz Kanani, Christian Lacroix , Beth Levine, Christian Louboutin , Paul Mayer, John Moore, André Perugia , Andrea Pfister, Dries van Noten, Roger Vivier , Masahiro Wakabayashi, Stuart Weitzman u. v. a. m.

Despite the variety of models, which at first glance appears to be very large, all women's models can be traced back to just a few basic types: These include pumps , ballerinas , buckle shoes, high heels , peep toes , sandals , mules, deux-pièces, slings , etc. Due to the constantly changing fashion , which repeatedly changes individual details (heel heights, heel shapes, tip shapes, heels, shaft heights, etc.) of the women's shoes, the diversity of the women's models seems larger than it actually is.

Articles on individual shoe models

Baby shoes , bathing shoes , Ballerina , Balmoral , hiking boot , Blucher , boat shoes , bridal shoes , brogue , Budapest , Bundschuh , Chelsea boot , clog , cowboy boots , Derby , Deux-Pièces , espadrilles , flip-flops , Fullbrogue , George boat , Geta- shoe , rubber boots , Gymnastiksandale , brogue , half shoes , Halfbrogue , slippers , wooden shoes , wooden sandal , slipper socks , jodhpur boot , running shoes , leather shoes , loafers , longwing , Mary Jane , moccasin , monk shoe , moon boots , Norwegians , slippers , platform Shoe , Peep Toe , Pumps , pointed shoe , snow shoe , sneaker , sports shoes , Trotteur , dance shoes , sneakers , hiking boots , turnshoe .

literature

Linda O'Keeffe: Shoes . Könemann, Cologne 2005, ISBN 3-8331-1098-8 .
Colin McDowell: Shoes - Beauty, Fashion, Imagination . Heyne, Munich 1989, ISBN 3-453-03606-9 .
Angela Pattison, Nigel Cawthorne: Shoes. Fashions & designs in the 20th century . Bassermann, Niedernhausen 1998, ISBN 3-8094-0655-4 .
Helge Sternke: Everything about men's shoes . 2nd Edition. Nicolai, Berlin 2011, ISBN 978-3-89479-252-7 .