Torstein
| Torstein | ||
|---|---|---|
 Dachstein Südwand, on the far left the Torstein |
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| height | 2948 m above sea level A. | |
| location | Upper Austria , Salzburg , Austria | |
| Mountains | Dachstein massif , Dachstein mountains | |
| Dominance | 1.5 km → Hoher Dachstein | |
| Notch height | 283 m ↓ lower wind gap | |
| Coordinates | 47 ° 28 '28 " N , 13 ° 35' 7" E | |
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| rock | Dachstein Limestone | |
| First ascent | in August 1819 by Jakob Buchsteiner | |
| Normal way | Southeast ridge (II) from the Unteren Windlucke | |
| particularities | Tri-border region | |
The Torstein is 2948 m above sea level. A. the second highest mountain in the Dachstein Mountains . It is located on the border between the Austrian federal states of Salzburg and Upper Austria on the southern edge of the Dachstein plateau . Its south face is the highest face in the entire Dachstein massif at around 1000 meters . According to literature, the mountain is the mightiest elevation of the massif.
Location and surroundings
The Torstein lies at the western end of the south edge of the extensive Dachstein plateau . It emits pronounced ridges to the north, south-east, south-west and west . The southwest ridge is called Windlegergrat . The western end of the Gosau glacier reaches just below the summit at an altitude of about 2900 meters. Neighboring mountain to the east is separated by the notch lower wind Lucke m in 2665, the Mitterspitz . In the northwest, separated by the Windlegerscharte crossing (2401 m), the Eiskarlspitz lies along the ridge at an altitude of 2480 meters. The north ridge of the Torstein is called the Schneebergwand . The closest settlement is Filzmoos, a good 5 kilometers as the crow flies to the southwest .
History of ascent and tourist development
The first documented ascent of the Torstein was achieved by the imperial hunter Jakob Buchsteiner, known as Jackl , single-handedly in August 1819 . This ascent in the course of the national survey, and another in August 1823, were already discussed at the time, and also assumed as a possible first ascent of the main summit .
The way of Jakob Buchsteiner in August 1819 led from the Windlegerscharte in a curve in an easterly direction over the Gosau glacier around the Thorstein and over the Untere Windlücke and an ice ridge to the summit. Today's normal route leads over the southeast ridge from the Unteren Windlucke in difficulty UIAA II to the summit. Countless climbing routes with high levels of difficulty up to UIAA VI A2 , in the southwest corner , have been climbed to reach the summit since the beginning of the 20th century . The first woman to climb the 1000 meter high south face was Fritzi Gruber on July 30, 1946. The Seethalerhütte to the east , at an altitude of 2740 meters, or the Adamekhütte (2196 m) to the north can serve as a base.
Literature and map
- August von Böhm : The Dachstein Group. In: Eduard Richter (Red.) The development of the Eastern Alps. Volume I, Berlin 1893.
- Willi End : Dachstein Mountains East. Dachstein Group. (= Alpine Club Guide ) Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, Munich 1980, ISBN 3-7633-1234-X . (A guide for valleys, huts and mountains with 78 pictures, 15 ascent sketches and a seven-color overview map 1:50 000)
- Alpine Club Map 1: 25,000, sheet 14, in: Dachstein Mountains. (= Alpine Club map. Trail markings and ski routes. 14/11) German Alpine Club, Munich 2012, ISBN 978-3-928777-27-8 .
Individual evidence
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^ Franz Carl Weidmann, 1822 (and the same: depictions from the Steyermärkschen Oberlande. 1834); Response from Carl Schmutz (with Mikitsch): The first ascent of the Dachstein or Thorstein on August 5, 1823. In: Der Aufmerksame , Grazer Zeitung , 1825, No. 21, 22; and: Ascent of the easternmost and highest peak of the Thor or Dachstein, August 5, 1823 In: Wiener Zeitung , November 2, 1824;
See discussion of the sources The first ascent of the Dachstein was the first ascent of the Torstein; and ascent of the Hohe Dachstein 1823. EnnstalWiki (both accessed August 22, 2019). - ^ August von Böhm : The Dachstein Group. In: Eduard Richter (Red.) The development of the Eastern Alps. Volume I, Berlin 1893, p. 328 ff.
- ^ Willi End: Dachstein Mountains East. Dachstein Group. Munich 1980, margin no. 455 ff.