Ultar Sar

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Ultar Sar - Bojohagur Duanasir II
Ultar Sar, to the left (behind) the Bojohagur Duanasir; far left Hunza Peak and Bublimotine.

Ultar Sar , to the left (behind) the Bojohagur Duanasir ; far left Hunza Peak and Bublimotine .

height 7388  m
location Gilgit-Baltistan ( Pakistan )
Mountains Batura Muztagh ( Karakoram )
Dominance 6.38 km →  Shispare
Notch height 688 m ↓  ( 6700  m )
Coordinates 36 ° 23 '27 "  N , 74 ° 42' 59"  E Coordinates: 36 ° 23 '27 "  N , 74 ° 42' 59"  E
Ultar Sar (Karakoram)
Ultar Sar
First ascent July 11, 1996 by Akito Yamazaki and Kiyoshi Matsuoka
Normal way Southwest route from Bathbakor base camp
Ultar Sar (center in front, with black flank), to the left of the Bojohagur Duanasir and behind that the Shispare

Ultar Sar (center in front, with black flank), to the left of the Bojohagur Duanasir and behind that the Shispare

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Ultar Sar , Ultar , Ultar II or Bojohagur Duanasir II is the southeasternmost main peak of the Batura Muztagh , a sub-area of ​​the Karakoram .

It is located about 10 km northeast of Karimabad , a city on the Karakoram Highway in the Hunza Valley in the autonomous region of Gilgit-Baltistan in northern Pakistan . Although it is not one of the highest peaks in the Karakoram, it appears to be very dominant over the surrounding terrain due to its steep walls and flanks. Its southern flank rises more than 5300 m above the Hunza River .

Ascent history

The Ultar Sar drew attention in the 1990s for being considered what is believed to be the highest, unclimbed, and independent peak in the world. However, this is wrong with regard to the unclimbed Gangkhar Puensum in Bhutan , as this is higher and will remain unclimbed in the near future due to a ban. During the 1980s and 1990s, more than 15 expeditions attempted to reach the difficult-to-climb summit, many unsuccessful and several climbers injured or died.

The first two attempts were made in July 1996 by two separate Japanese expeditions; the first group (from the Tokai division of the Japanese Alpine Club ) was led by Akito Yamazaki , and the second by Ken Takahashi . The first rope team included Yamazaki and Kiyoshi Matsuoka. They reached the summit on the morning of July 11th from the southwest in alpine style ; on their ascent they were en route at night to avoid the danger of falling rocks or ice. On the way down, they were caught in a violent storm that forced them to bivouac for several days without food. On arrival at the base camp, Akihito Yamazaki died of altitude sickness and exhaustion (Kiyoshi Matsuoka had an accident a year later on the nearby Bublimotin ).

The second rope team consisted of Takahashi and four others: Masayuki Ando, ​​Ryushi Hoshino, Wataru Saito and Nobuo Tsutsumi. They climbed the south ridge. There have been no successful climbs to the summit since 1996.

Secondary peaks and glaciers

A western secondary peak of Ultar Sar is the Bojohagur Duanasir ( 7329  m ), which was climbed by a Japanese group in 1984. The Hunza Peak ( 6270  m ) and the Bublimotin rock needle ( Ladyfinger Peak ) are located along the southwest ridge of the massif . Another striking rock spire rises up in the east ridge, the Gulmit Tower .

The glaciers that drain the slopes of the massif are starting clockwise from the north: the Ghulkin Glacier , the Gulmit Glacier , the Ahmad Abad Glacier , the Ultar Glacier , and the Hasanabad Glacier (some of these have multiple names .)

Neighboring peaks

The Gulmit Tower in the east ridge of Ultar Sar.

In the northwest, connected to the north ridge of Bojohagur Duanasir, the closest neighbor is the pyramidal Shispare ( 7611  m ). Beyond the Hunza Valley, Lupghar Sar ( 7200  m ) and Momhil Sar ( 7343  m ) in the Hispar Muztagh are to the east .

swell

  • Jerzy Wala, Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram , Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, 1990.
  • Jerzy Wala, Orographical Sketch Map of the Batura Muztagh , 1988.
  • American Alpine Journal, 1997.
  • Himalayan index

Web links

Commons : Ultar Sar  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ^ Jozef Nyka: Asia, Pakistan, Ultar Sar, First Ascent . American Alpine Journal, 1997, vol. 39.
  2. ↑ Slawomir Kawecki: Gulmit Tower (5,810m), Southeast Ridge, Attempt. . American Alpine Journal 2012.