1400–1500 in European fashion and Columbia County, New York: Difference between pages

Coordinates: 42°15′N 73°38′W / 42.25°N 73.63°W / 42.25; -73.63
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
(Difference between pages)
Content deleted Content added
VisualWikitext
 
No edit summary
 
Line 1: Line 1:
:''There is also a [[Columbia, New York|Town of Columbia]] in New York.''
[[Image:Les Tres Riches Heures du duc de Berry avril detail.jpg|right|thumb|300px|Full-bodied houppelandes with voluminous sleeves worn with elaborate headdresses are characteristic of the earlier 15th century. Detail from ''[[Très Riches Heures du Duc de Berry]]''.]]
{{Infobox U.S. County|
'''Fashion in 15th century Europe''' was characterized by a series of extremes and extravagances, from the voluminous gowns called [[houppelande]]s with their sweeping floor-length sleeves to the revealing [[doublet (clothing)|doublet]]s and [[hose (clothing)|hose]] of [[Renaissance Italy]]. [[Hat]]s, [[hood]]s, and other [[headdress]]es assumed increasing importance, and were swagged, draped, jewelled, and [[feather]]ed.
county = Columbia County|
state = New York |
seal = Columbia County ny seal.png |
map size = 225|
founded = 1786|
seat = [[Hudson, New York|Hudson]] |
area_total_sq_mi =648 |
area_land_sq_mi =636 |
area_water_sq_mi =13 |
area percentage = 1.93% |
census yr = 2000|
pop = 63094 |
density_km2 =38|
web = www.columbiacountyny.org|
|}}


'''Columbia County''' is a [[county]] located in the [[U.S. state]] of [[New York]]. As of the [[United States Census 2000|2000 census]], the population was 63,094. The [[county seat]] is [[Hudson, New York|Hudson]]. The name comes from the Latin feminine form of the name of [[Christopher Columbus]], which was at the time of the formation of the county a popular proposal for the name of the [[United States|United States of America]]. Columbia County is part of the [[Capital District|Albany-Schenectady-Amsterdam, NY Combined Statistical Area]].
As Europe continued to grow more prosperous, the urban middle classes, skilled workers, began to wear more complex clothes that followed, at a distance, the fashions set by the elites. National variations in clothing seem on the whole to have increased over the century.<ref name="Boucher">Boucher, François: ''20,000 Years of Fashion'', Harry Abrams, 1966.</ref>


==General trends==
== History ==
The first exploration of Columbia County was in 1609, when [[Henry Hudson]], an explorer, sailed across the Atlantic, and up the [[Hudson River]]. An accident to his craft forced him to stop at what is now known as Columbia County, and search around for food and supplies.<ref name="disc1">{{Cite web|author=Columbia County, NY.com|title=History of Columbia County, New York|year=|publisher=|accessdate=2008-02-11|url=http://www.columbiacountyny.com/history.html}}</ref> The [[Native Americans in the United States|Americans]] that had lived there were the [[Mahican|Mohican Indians]]. In 1612, a trade was established to colonize regions of the land. This led to the creation of Fort Orange (today Albany)and New Amsterdam (today the city of New York). This allowed traders to stop along the shores of the Hudson, which led to the growth of small settlements that were intended to supply the trader's ships with supplies.<ref name="disc1">{{Cite web|author=Columbia County, NY.com|title=History of Columbia County, New York|year=|publisher=|accessdate=2008-02-11|url=http://www.columbiacountyny.com/history.html}}</ref>
[[Image:Petrus Christus 003 detail.jpg|right|thumb|200px|Bold pomegranate- or artichoke-patterned silks are characteristic of the 15th century, as are richly coloured velvets and woolens. Fine linen was important for headdresses and for the shirts and chemises revealed by new lower necklines and slashing.]]
===Dominance of the Burgundian court===
With England and France mired in the [[Hundred Years War]] and its aftermath and then the English [[Wars of the Roses]] through most of the century, European fashion north of the [[Alps]] was dominated by the glittering court of the [[Duchy of Burgundy]], especially under the fashion-conscious power-broker [[Philip III, Duke of Burgundy|Philip the Good]] (ruled 1419-1469). Having added [[Holland]] and [[Flanders]] to their dominion, the Dukes of Burgundy had access to the latest fabrics of Italy and the East and to English wool exports through the great trading cities of [[Bruges]] and [[Antwerp]].<ref>Parry, ''History of Costume'', p. 199</ref> Purchases of fabrics through Italian merchants like the two cousins [[Giovanni Arnolfini]] amounted to a noticeable proportion of all government expenditure.<ref> 2% to the elder Giovanni alone, in 1444-6, p195 National Gallery Catalogues, The Fifteenth Century Netherlandish Paintings, Lorne Campbell, 1998, ISBN 185709171X </ref> Especially in Florence, where [[sumptuary law]]s prevented the citizens from wearing the most luxurious cloths on which the city's fortunes were built, the materials of men's clothing in particular often appear plain in paintings, but contemporaries who understood the difference in grades of cloth very well would have appreciated the beauty and great expense of a very fine grade.<ref name="frick">Frick, Carole Collier. [http://books.google.com/books?vid=ISBN0801869390 Dressing Renaissance Florence: Families, Fortunes, and Fine Clothing.] Johns Hopkins University Press (2002).</ref>


In 1649, the region of land near Claverack were purchased and in 1667, more land was purchased.<Ref name="disc2">{{Cite web|author=Rootsweb|title=History of Columbia County|year=|publisher=|accessdate=2008-02-11|url=http://www.rootsweb.com/~nycolumb/}}</ref> This brought the settlement of the Dutch, which led to the development and growth of the regions. In 1664, the English took over New Netherland and renamed it the Province of [[New York]]. At this time, Fort Orange was renamed [[Albany, New York|Albany]].<Ref name="disc2">{{Cite web|author=Rootsweb|title=History of Columbia County|year=|publisher=|accessdate=2008-02-11|url=http://www.rootsweb.com/~nycolumb/}}</ref>
===Fabrics and furs===
[[Wool]] was the most popular [[textile|fabric]] for all classes by far, followed by [[linen]] and [[hemp]].<ref name="Koslin">Koslin, Désirée, "Value-Added Stuffs and Shifts in Meaning: An Overview and Case-Study of Medieval Textile Paradigms", in Koslin and Snyder, ''Encountering Medieval Textiles and Dress'', p. 237-240</ref> Wool fabrics were available in a wide range of qualities, from rough undyed cloth to fine, dense [[broadcloth]] with a velvety nap; high-value broadcloth was a backbone of the [[England|English]] economy and was exported throughout Europe.<ref name="Crowfoot">Crowfoot, Elizabeth, Frances Prichard and Kay Staniland, ''Textiles and Clothing c. 1150 - c. 1450''</ref> Wool fabrics were dyed in rich colours, notably reds, greens, golds, and blues, although the actual blue colour achievable with dyeing with [[woad]] (and less frequently [[indigo]]) could not match the characteristic rich [[lapis lazuli]] [[pigment]] blues depicted in contemporary [[illuminated manuscript]]s such as the ''[[Très Riches Heures du duc de Berry]]''.<ref name="Koslin" />
[[Silk]]-weaving was well-established around the [[Mediterranean Sea|Mediterranean]] by the beginning of the century, and figured silks, often silk [[velvet]]s with silver-gilt [[weft]]s, are increasingly seen in Italian dress and in the dress of the wealthy throughout Europe. Stately floral designs featuring a [[pomegranate]] or [[artichoke]] motif had reached Europe from [[China]] in the previous century and became a dominant design in the [[Ottoman Empire|Ottoman]] silk-producing cities of [[Istanbul]] and [[Bursa]], and spread to silk weavers in [[Florence]], [[Genoa]], [[Venice]], [[Valencia, Spain|Valencia]] and [[Seville]] in this period. <ref name="Koslin" /> <ref>[http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_Of_Art/viewOne.asp?dep=20&item=12%2E49%2E8&viewMode=0&section=description Late 15th century Italian (Venice) Velvet at the Metropolitan Museum of Art]</ref>


A significant settlement developed in 1710, when 1200 [[Germany|Germans]] were brought to Livingston Manor, which was located in what is now known as [[Dutchess County, New York|Dutchess County]], and is now known as [[Germantown, New York|Germantown]].<Ref name="disc2">{{Cite web|author=Rootsweb|title=History of Columbia County|year=|publisher=|accessdate=2008-02-11|url=http://www.rootsweb.com/~nycolumb/}}</ref> They were brought as indentured servants by England's Queen Anne and New York's Governor Hunter to make tar from the pine trees in the Catskill Mountains.<Ref name="disc2">{{Cite web|author=Rootsweb|title=History of Columbia County|year=|publisher=|accessdate=2008-02-11|url=http://www.rootsweb.com/~nycolumb/}}</ref>
Fur was worn, mostly as a lining layer, by those who could afford it. The grey and white squirrel furs of the Middle Ages, [[vair]] and [[miniver]], went out of style except at court, first for men and then for women; the new fashionable furs were dark brown [[sable]] and [[marten]]. Toward the end of the century, wild animal furs such as [[lynx]] became popular.<ref>Favier, Jean, ''Gold and Spices: The Rise of Commerce in the Middle Ages'', 1998, p. 66</ref> [[Ermine]] remained the prerogative and hallmark of royalty.


Columbia County was formed in 1786 from portions of Albany County. In 1799, the southern boundary of Columbia County was moved soutward to include that portion of Livingston Manor located in Dutchess County.
===Slashing===
Contemporary chroniclers identify the source of the fashion for slashing garments (to reveal a lining or full undergarment beneath) to the actions of [[Switzerland|Swiss]] soldiers in the aftermath of the [[Battle of Grandson]] in [[1476]].<ref>Laver, ''Concise History of Costume and Fashion'', p. 78</ref> Supposedly the Swiss plundered the rich fabrics of the [[Burgundy|Burgundian]] nobles and used the scraps to patch their tattered clothes. In reality, images appear of sleeves with a single slashed opening as early as mid-century, although the German fashion for "many small all-over slits" may have begun here.<ref>Payne, op cit p.241, </ref> Whatever its origin, the fad for multiple slashings spread to [[Germany|German]] [[Landsknechts]] and thence to France, Italy, and England, where it was to remain a potent current in fashionable attire into the mid-[[1600-1650 in fashion|seventeenth century]].


==Government and Politics==
A second result of the defeat at Grandson was the decline of Burgundy as a fount of culture and fashion. The heiress [[Mary of Burgundy]] married [[Maximilian I, Holy Roman Emperor]] but died young. In the last decade of the century, [[Charles VIII of France]] [[Italian Wars|invaded Italy]] and was briefly declared [[Kingdom of Naples|King of Naples]]. As a result, the French nobility were introduced to the fabrics and styles of Italy, which would combine with German influence to dominate fashion in France (and later, England) in the [[1500-1550 in fashion|first half of the sixteenth century]].<ref>Laver, ''Concise History of Costume and Fashion'', chapters 3 and 4 ''passim''</ref>
Columbia County government is controlled politically by Republican elected officials as it has been for decades. But from 1996 - 2007 new voter registrations by Democrats have outpaced those by Republicans by a margin of 4 to 1. <ref name="test"> [http://www.elections.state.ny.us/EnrollmentCounty.html].|New York State - Board of Elections - Enrollment by County</ref> This substantial shift in party affiliation is due in large part to an influx of people from New York and other cosmopolitan locales who now live either full or part-time in Columbia County. The rise in the number of Democrats has resulted in there being a virtual tie in the numbers of Democrats, Republicans and those not registered in a political party in Columbia County. In 2006 [[Kirsten Gillibrand|Kirsten Gillibrand (D-Hudson)]] scored a major upset unseating three-term incumbent Republican Congressman, [[John Sweeney|John Sweeney (R-Troy)]]. In the 2007 election cycle, Democrats came within 2 seats of taking control of the Board of Supervisors


The Board of Supervisors under the leadership of Supervisor Art Baer (R-Hillsdale) is functioning in a coalition government of sorts, with members in the minority having greater access to information and inclusion in process than was provided in most of the past decades. The political makeup of the electorate is at a virtual tie between Republicans, Democrats and those not in a political party. But the trend has been an increase in Democrats and decline in Republican voters, setting the stage for the [http://ccnydems.org Columbia County Democratic Committee] to achieve a shift in power, perhaps as early as the 2009 elections. In the most recent Presidential elections Columbia County is considered a Democratic leaning county. John Kerry won 51% or a 5 point margin over George Bush in 2004.
==Women's fashion==
{{Expand-section|date=August 2008}}
===Gown, kirtle, and chemise===
[[Image:Petrus Christus 004 detail.jpg|thumb|right|200px|Fur-trimmed Burgundian gown of mid-century has a V-neck that displays the black kirtle and a band of the chemise. Hair is pulled back in an embroidered hennin and covered by a short veil.]]
[[Image:Giovanna Tornabuoni full length.jpg|right|thumb|200px|Giovanna Tornabuoni and her attendants in Italian fashion of the 1480s. The tight slashed sleeves reveal the full chemise sleeves beneath. She wears a ''giornea'' over a kirtle or ''gamurra''.]]
[[Image:Maria van Bourgondi.jpg|right|thumb|200px|[[Mary of Burgundy]] wears a headdress comprising a truncated-cone hennin, a jewelled padded roll, and a sheer veil.]]
Women's fashions of the fifteenth century consisted of a long gown, usually with sleeves, worn over a [[kirtle]] or undergown, with a linen [[chemise|chemise or smock]] worn next to the skin. The long-waisted silhouette of the [[1300-1400 in fashion|previous period]] was replaced by a high-waisted style with fullness over the belly, often confined by a belt. The wide, shallow scooped neckline was replaced by a V-neck, often cut low enough to reveal the decorated front of the kirtle beneath.
[[Image:Leonardo da Vinci 046.jpg|thumb|right|[[Cecilia Gallerani]], mistress of Ludivico Sforza, Duke of Milan. This famous portrait was painted by Leonardo Da Vinci c.1489. She is wearing a blue square.necked gown with slashed sleeves showing her red chemise underneath. Blue and red were the Sforza family colours.]]


==Geography==
Columbia County is in the eastern part of New York State, southeast of [[Albany, New York|Albany]] and immediately west of the [[Massachusetts]] border. The western border is the [[Hudson River]].


According to the [[United States Census Bureau|U.S. Census Bureau]], the county has a total area of 648&nbsp;[[square mile]]s (1,679&nbsp;[[km²]]), of which, 636&nbsp;square miles (1,647&nbsp;km²) of it is land and 13&nbsp;square miles (32&nbsp;km²) of it (1.93%) is water.
Various styles of overgowns were worn. The ''[[cotehardie]]'' fitted smoothly from the shoulders to the hips and then flared by means of inserted triangular gores. It featured sleeves tight to the elbow with hanging streamers or ''tippets''. The tight fit was achieved with lacing or [[button]]s. This style faded rapidly from fashion in favor of the houppelande, a full robe with a high collar and wide sleeves that had become fashionable around 1380 and remained so to mid-century.<ref name="Payne">Payne, Blanche: ''History of Costume from the Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century'', Harper & Row, 1965.</ref> The later houppelande had sleeves that were snug at the wrist, making a full "bag" sleeve. The bag sleeve was sometimes slashed in the front to allow the lower arm to reach through.


The terrain is gentle, rolling hills, rising sharply into the [[Taconic Mountains|Taconic]] and [[Berkshire Mountains]] along the state line.
Around 1450, the gown of northern Europe developed a low V-neck that showed a glimpse of the square-necked kirtle. The neckline could be filled in with a sheer linen partlet. Wide turn-backs like revers displayed a contrasting lining, frequently of fur or black velvet, and the sleeves might be cuffed to match. Sleeves were very long, covering half of the hand, and often highly decorated with embroidery. Fine sleeves were often transferred from one dress to another.


The highest point is on the [[Massachusetts]] state line near the summit of '''Alander Mountain''', at approximately 2,110 feet (643 m) above sea level, in the town of Copake. The lowest point is at or near sea level along the Hudson.
In Italy, the low scoop-neck of the early decades gave way to a neckline that was high in front with a lower V-neck at the back at mid-century. This was followed by a V-neckline that displayed the kirtle or ''gamurra'' (sometimes spelled ''camorra''). Sleeveless overgowns were popular, and the gamurra sleeves displayed were often of rich figured silks. A sideless overgown called the ''giornea'' was also worn with the gamurra or kirtle. Toward the end of the period, sleeves were made in sections or panels and slashed, allowing the full chemise sleeves below to be pulled through in puffs along the arm, at the shoulder, and at the elbow. This was the beginning of the fashion for puffed and slashed sleeves that would last for two centuries.<ref name="Payne" />


===Adjacent counties===
The ''partlet'', a sort of separate yoke to fill in a low neckline, appeared in this period, usually of sheer fabric (linen or possibly silk) with an open V-neckline. Burgundian partlets are usually depicted worn under the gown (but over the kirtle); in Italy the partlet seems to have been worn over the gown and could be pointed or cut straight across at the lower front.
*[[Rensselaer County, New York|Rensselaer County]], [[New York]] - north
*[[Berkshire County, Massachusetts|Berkshire County]], [[Massachusetts]] - east
*[[Dutchess County, New York|Dutchess County]], [[New York]] - south
*[[Ulster County, New York|Ulster County]], [[New York]] - southwest
*[[Greene County, New York|Greene County]], [[New York]] - west
*[[Albany County, New York|Albany County]], [[New York]] - northwest
*[[Litchfield County, Connecticut|Litchfield County]], [[Connecticut]] - southeast


==Demographics==
Two uniquely Spanish fashions appear from the 1470s. The ''verdugada'' or ''verdugado'' was gown with a bell-shaped [[hoop skirt]] with visible casings stiffened with reeds, which would become the [[farthingale]]. The earliest depictions of this garment come from [[Catalonia]], where it is worn with pieced or slashed sleeves and the second new style, a chemise with trumpet sleeves, open and very wide at the wrist.<ref name="Boucher" />
{{USCensusPop
|1790 = 27496
|1800 = 35322
|1810 = 32390
|1820 = 38330
|1830 = 39907
|1840 = 43252
|1850 = 43073
|1860 = 47172
|1870 = 47044
|1880 = 47928
|1890 = 46172
|1900 = 43211
|1910 = 43658
|1920 = 38930
|1930 = 41617
|1940 = 41464
|1950 = 43182
|1960 = 47322
|1970 = 51519
|1980 = 59487
|1990 = 62982
|2000 = 63094
|estyear = 2007<ref>[http://www.census.gov/popest/counties/tables/CO-EST2007-01-36.xls Population Estimates as of July 1, 2007 by U.S. Census Bureau]</ref>
|estimate = 62363
|footnote = Source<ref>[http://www.empire.state.ny.us/nysdc/StateCountyPopests/CountyPopHistory.PDF New York State Department of Economic Development]</ref>
}}
As of the [[census]]{{GR|2}} of 2000, there were 63,094 people, 24,796 households, and 16,588 families residing in the county. The [[population density]] was 99 people per square mile (38/km²). There were 30,207 housing units at an average density of 48 per square&nbsp;mile (18/km²). The racial makeup of the county was 92.09% [[Race (United States Census)|White]], 4.52% [[Race (United States Census)|Black]] or [[Race (United States Census)|African American]], 0.21% [[Race (United States Census)|Native American]], 0.80% [[Race (United States Census)|Asian]], 0.03% [[Race (United States Census)|Pacific Islander]], 0.90% from [[Race (United States Census)|other races]], and 1.45% from two or more races. 2.53% of the population were [[Race (United States Census)|Hispanic]] or [[Race (United States Census)|Latino]] of any race. 17.2% were of [[Germans|German]], 14.7% [[Italian people|Italian]], 14.5% [[Irish people|Irish]], 9.0% [[English people|English]], 6.3% [[Polish people|Polish]] and 6.1% [[United States|American]] ancestry according to [[Census 2000]]. 94.0% spoke [[English language|English]] and 2.1% [[Spanish language|Spanish]] as their first language.


There were 24,796 households out of which 29.90% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 52.20% were [[Marriage|married couples]] living together, 10.30% had a female householder with no husband present, and 33.10% were non-families. 27.10% of all households were made up of individuals and 11.50% had someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size was 2.43 and the average family size was 2.95.
The sideless surcoat of the [[1300-1400 in fashion|14th century]] became fossilized as a ceremonial costume for royalty, usually with an ermine front panel (called a ''plackard'' or ''placket'') and a mantle draped from the shoulders; it can be seen in variety of royal portraits and as "shorthand" to identify queens in illuminated manuscripts of the period.


In the county the population was spread out with 24.10% under the age of 18, 6.40% from 18 to 24, 26.90% from 25 to 44, 26.30% from 45 to 64, and 16.40% who were 65 years of age or older. The median age was 40 years. For every 100 females there were 99.00 males. For every 100 females age 18 and over, there were 95.30 males.
===Hairstyles and headdresses===


The median income for a household in the county was $41,915, and the median income for a family was $49,357. Males had a median income of $34,702 versus $25,878 for females. The [[per capita income]] for the county was $22,265. About 6.40% of families and 9.00% of the population were below the [[poverty line]], including 11.80% of those under age 18 and 6.80% of those age 65 or over.
A variety of hats and headdresses were worn in Europe in this century.


== Cities, towns, and villages ==
The ''crespine'' of Northern Europe, originally a thick hairnet or [[snood]], had evolved into a mesh of jeweler's work that confined the hair on the sides of the head by the end of the fourteenth century. Gradually the fullness at the sides of head was pulled up to the temples and became pointed, like horns (''à corné'').<ref name="Payne" />
*[[Ancram, New York|Ancram]] (town)
*[[Austerlitz, New York|Austerlitz]] (town)
*[[Canaan, New York|Canaan]] (town)
*[[Chatham (town), New York|Chatham]] (town)
*[[Chatham (village), New York|Chatham]] (village)
*[[Claverack, New York|Claverack]] (town)
*[[Claverack-Red Mills, New York|Claverack-Red Mills]]
*[[Clermont, New York|Clermont]] (town)
*[[Copake Lake, New York|Copake Lake]]
*[[Copake, New York|Copake]] (town)
*[[Gallatin, New York|Gallatin]] (town)
*[[Germantown (town), New York|Germantown]] (town)
*[[Germantown (CDP), New York|Germantown]]
*[[Ghent (town), New York|Ghent]] (town)
*[[Greenport, Columbia County, New York|Greenport]] (town)
*[[Hillsdale, New York|Hillsdale]] (town)
*[[Hudson, New York|Hudson]] (city)
*[[Kinderhook (town), New York|Kinderhook]] (town)
*[[Kinderhook (village), New York|Kinderhook]] (village)
*[[Livingston, New York|Livingston]] (town)
*[[Lorenz Park, New York|Lorenz Park]]
*[[New Lebanon, New York|New Lebanon]] (town)
*[[Niverville, New York|Niverville]]
*[[Philmont, New York|Philmont]] (village)
*[[Stockport, New York|Stockport]] (town)
*[[Stottville, New York|Stottville]]
*[[Stuyvesant, New York|Stuyvesant]] (town)
*[[Taghkanic, New York|Taghkanic]] (town)
*[[Valatie, New York|Valatie]] (village)
: ''=> labels in parentheses indicate official political designation''.


<table width = 75% border = 2 align="center">
By mid-century, the hair was pulled back from the forehead, and the crespine, now usually called a ''caul'', sat on the back of the head. Very fashionable women shaved their foreheads and eyebrows.
<tr><td width = 35% align="center">

<td width = 30% align="center">'''North:''' [[Rensselaer County, New York|Rensselaer County]]</td>
Any of these styles could be topped by a padded roll, sometimes arranged in a heart-shape, or a veil, or both. [[Veil]]s were supported by wire frames that exaggerated the shape and were variously draped from the back of the headdress or covered the forehead.
<td width = 35% align="center">

</td></tr>
Women also wore the chaperon, a draped hat based on the [[hood]] and [[liripipe]], and a variety of related draped and wrapped [[turban]]s.
<tr>

<td width = 10% align="center">'''West:''' [[Hudson River]]<br />[[Greene County, New York|Greene]] and [[Ulster County, New York|Ulster]] Counties</td>
The most extravagant headdress of Burgundian fashion is the [[hennin]], a cone or truncated-cone shaped cap with a wire frame covered in fabric and topped by a veil. Later hennins feature a turned-back brim, or are worn over a hood with a turned-back brim <ref>M. Vibbert, ''Headdresses of the 14th and 15th Centuries'', The Compleat Anachronist, No. 133, SCA monograph series (August 2006)</ref>.
<td width = 35% align="center">'''Columbia County'''</td>

<td width = 30% align="center">'''East:''' [[Berkshire County, Massachusetts|Berkshire County]], [[Massachusetts]] </td>
Women of the merchant classes in Northern Europe wore modified versions of courtly hairtyles, with coifs or caps, veils, and [[wimple]]s of crisp linen (often with visible creases from ironing and folding). A brief fashion added rows of gathered frills to the coif or veil; this style is sometimes known by the German name ''kruseler''.<ref name="Kohler">Kõhler, ''History of Costume''</ref>.
<tr><td width = 35% align="center">

<td width = 30% align="center">'''South:''' [[Dutchess County, New York|Dutchess County]]</td>
The general European convention of completely covering married women's hair was not accepted in warmer Italy.<refname="Payne" /> Italian women wore their hair very long, wound with ribbons or braided, and twisted up into knots of various shapes with the ends hanging free. The hair was then covered with sheer veils or small caps. Toward the 1480s women wore chin-length sections of hair in loose waves or ripples over the ears (a style that would inspire "vintage" hair fashions in the [[1600-1650 in fashion|1620s and '30s]] and again in the [[1840s in fashion|1840s]] and [[1850s in fashion|1850s]]). Blond hair was considered desirable (by [[Botticelli]] for one), and visitors to Venice reported that ladies sat out in the sun on their terraces with their hair spread out around large circular disks worn like hats, attempting to bleach it in the sun. Chemical methods were also used.
<td width = 35% align="center">

</table>
===Style gallery - Northern Europe 1400s-1440s===
<gallery>
Image:Christine de Pisan and her son.jpg|1 - 1410-11
Image:Christine de Pisan and Queen Isabeau detail.jpg|2 - 1410-11
Image:Franko-flämischer Meister 002.jpg|3 - c. 1410
Image:Rogier van der Weyden 029.jpg|4 - 1430
Image:Eyck magarete.jpg|5 - 1439
Image:Van der Weyden Crucifixion Triptych.jpg|6 - 1443
Image:Rogier van der Weyden- Seven Sacraments Altarpiece - Baptism, Confirmation, and Penance; detail, baptism.jpg|7 - 1445-50
Image:Isabella of portugal.jpg|8 - 1445-50
Image:MargaretAnjou.jpg|9- 1445-1450

</gallery>
#[[:Image:Christine de Pisan and her son.jpg|Image]] of [[Christine de Pisan]] in a cotehardie. She wears a wired "horned" headdress with a veil. France, 1410-11.
#[[:Image:Christine de Pisan and Queen Isabeau detail.jpg|Christine de Pisan presents her book to Queen Isabeau]], who wears a figured houppelande lined in [[ermine]] with a broad collar and a heart-shaped headdress. Her books stress that women should dress appropriately to their station in life, as her own less sumptuous headdress here reflects.<ref>Laura Rinaldi Dufresne, “A Woman of Excellent Character: A Case Study of Dress, Reputation and the Changing Costume of Christine de Pizan in the Fifteenth Century,” Dress 16:2 (1990), 105–117. Depictions after de Pisan's death in 1430 tend to "promote" her socially.</ref>
#[[:Image:Franko-flämischer Meister 002.jpg|This woman]] wears a houppelande of dark blue figured fabric with a narrow belt. Her hair is shaved back from her forehead, and she wears a blunt pointed cap (now over-restored), France or Flanders, c. 1410.<ref>This, the earliest panel portrait of a woman, has been heavily restored or "improved" at various points, most recently by [[Joseph Duveen, 1st Baron Duveen of Millbank|Lord Duveen]] in 1922-3, who wanted it to become a [[Pisanello]]. The bee-hive hair above the cap should be ignored, and the striping and quilting in the cap are not seen in older photographs and drawings, where it appears flat and made from one piece of cloth. The clothes on the body are original apart from retouched areas. See J.O. Hand & M. Wolff, Early Netherlandish Painting, p 90-97, National Gallery of Art, Washington(catalogue)/Cambridge UP,1986, ISBN 0521340160</ref>
#[[:Image:Rogier van der Weyden 029.jpg|Modestly-dressed woman]] wears a linen headdress and a grey gown lined in black fur confined with a belt at the high waist. Her veil is pinned to her cap, and has sharp creases from ironing, Netherlands, 1430.
#[[:Image:Eyck magarete.jpg|Margarete van Eyck]] wears a horned headdress with a ruffled veil called a ''kruseler''. Her red gown is lined in grey fur, 1439.
#[[:Image:Van der Weyden Crucifixion Triptych.jpg|Gown]] with fur-lined bag sleeves, Bruges, 1443.
#[[:Image:Rogier van der Weyden- Seven Sacraments Altarpiece - Baptism, Confirmation, and Penance; detail, baptism.jpg|Two women at a baptism]] (likely godmother and mother) wear heart-shaped headdresses with veils and belted, fur-lined gowns open at the fron to display the chemises beneath, Burgundy, 1445-50.
#[[:Image:Isabella of portugal.jpg|Isabella of Portugal]], Duchess of Burgundy, wears an elaborate embroidered and jeweled headdress with a sheer veil. Her gown is made of an artichoke-patterned red velvet on a gold ground, lined with ermine, and laces at the front opening. She wears a sheer linen partlet and a checkered belt, c. 1445-50<ref>On the dating of this image, see notes at [[:Image:Isabella of portugal.jpg]]</ref>
#[[Margaret of Anjou]], Queen consort of Henry VI of England. She is wearing the close-fitting cotehardie with gold buttons and tight gold sleeves which end in cuffs. Her red mantel is richly embroidered at the neck and clasped with a brooch.

===Style gallery - Northern Europe 1450s-1470s===
<gallery>
Image:Rogier van der Weyden 027.jpg|1 - c. 1455
Image:Emilia detail.jpg|2 - c. 1460
Image:Meister des Jouvenel des Ursins 001 detail 1.jpg|3 - c. 1460
Image:Meister des Jouvenel des Ursins 001 detail 2.jpg|4 - c. 1460
Image:Memling kast judgement detail.jpg|4 - 1467-71
Image:Hugo van der Goes 004 detail1.jpg|5 - 1476-78
Image:Elizabeth woodville.jpg|6 - ?1470s
</gallery>
#[[:Image:Rogier van der Weyden 027.jpg|1450s fashion]] shows the hair pulled smoothly back from the face and confined in a caul or early hennin beneath a sheer veil. The gown has a wide V-neckline that shows the dark kirtle beneath and is worn with a wide red belt and a sheer partlet at the neck, Netherlands.
#[[:Image:Emilia detail.jpg|Emilia in the garden]] in this illustration from [[Boccaccio]], Emilia wears the formal ermine-trimmed sideless surcoat that identifies royalty in illuminated manuscripts of this period, 1460.
#[[:Image:Meister des Jouvenel des Ursins 001 detail 1.jpg|Ladies]] in another illustration from Boccaccio wear tall steeple hennins with white veils. A long gown with a train has fur at the cuffs and neckline and is worn with a wide belt, c. 1460.
#[[:Image:Meister des Jouvenel des Ursins 001 detail 2.jpg|An attendant]] in from the same illustration wears a red hood with a long liripipe. Her blue gown is "kirtled" or shortened by poufing it over a belt, c. 1460.
#[[:Image:Memling kast judgement detail.jpg|Woman]] wears a simple headdress of draped linen and a red gown trimmed with white fur. Note that the sleeve is only attached to the gown at the top, 1467-71.
#[[:Image:Hugo van der Goes 004 detail1.jpg|Maria Portinari]] wears a truncated cone hennin with a veil draped over the back. The black loop on her forehead is thought to be part of the wire frame that balances the hennin. Her gown has a black collar trimmed in white fur and she wears an elaborate ''carcanet'' or [[necklace]], Netherlands, 1478-78.
#[[:Image:Elizabeth woodville.jpg|Elizabeth Woodville]], Queen consort of [[Edward IV of England]], wears a black gown with patterned collar and cuffs and a matching truncated English hennin beneath a sheer veil. ?1470s.<ref>This is one of several extant copies of a work likely from life, between her marriage in 1464 and the death of her husband in 1483; Parry, ''History of Costume'', shows a brass rubbing dated 1479 with the same style of headdress and neckline.</ref>

===Style gallery - Northern Europe 1480s-1490s===
<gallery>
Image:Memling magdalene.jpg|1 - 1480
Image:Meister der tiburtinischen Sibylle 001 detail.jpg|2 - 1480-85
Image:Memling True Love.jpg|3 - 1485-90
Image:Anne Beaujeu.jpg|4 - c. 1490s
Image:MargaretheofAustria_JeanHey.jpg|5 - 1490s
Image:Octavien de Saint-Gelais 1 detail.jpg|6 - 1496-98
Image:Octavien de Saint-Gelais 2 detail.jpg|7 - 1496-98

</gallery>
#[[:Image:Memling magdalene.jpg|Mary Magdalene]] is portrayed in contemporary dress of 1480. The low front opening now laces over the kirtle or an inserted panel or plackard, and the gown is draped up to reveal the richer fabric of the kirtle skirt.
#[[:Image:Meister der tiburtinischen Sibylle 001 detail.jpg|Long gowns]] of the 1480s are carried looped up to allow walking, displaying the kirtle beneath.
#[[:Image:Memling True Love.jpg|In this allegory of True Love]], the woman wears a pointed hennin with a sheer veil. Her gown is laced across her kirtle, Netherlands, 1485-90.
#[[:Image:Anne Beaujeu.jpg|Anne de Beaujeu]], Regent of France, in the ceremonial ermine-trimmed sideless surcoat and mantle of royalty, c. 1490s. The small cap worn with her coronet is a new French fashion of the last decade of the century.
#[[:Image:MargaretheofAustria_JeanHey.jpg|Margaret of Austria]] wears a red velvet front-opening gown lined in ermine. Her hood has black velvet lappets and gold embroidery, 1490s.
#[[:Image:Octavien de Saint-Gelais 1 detail.jpg|Hypsipylé, first wife of Jason]] is depicted wearing an embroidered coif or cap decorated with small slashes, with her hair braided down her back underneath. She wears a square-necked gown with flared sleeves, French, 1496-98.
#[[:Image:Octavien de Saint-Gelais 2 detail.jpg|Another fashionable headdress]] of this period features a striped veil wrapped over an embroidered padded roll with a jewel, worn over a coif tied under the chin. The portion over the brow is probably a matching "forehead cloth" rather than part of the coif. The loose, square-necked gown of figured silk is worn over a black partlet, French, 1496-98.

===Style gallery - Italy 1400s-1460s===
<gallery>
Image:Gentile da Fabriano 017.jpg|1 - 1423
Image:Lippo lippi woman.jpg|2 - c. 1440
Image:Domenico Veneziano 004.jpg|3 - c. 1450
Image:Battista sforza.jpg|4 - 1465-70
Image:Bianca Maria Visconti.jpg|5 - c.1445
</gallery>

#[[:Image:Gentile da Fabriano 017.jpg|Italian]] headdresses. The woman on the left wears a veil twisted into a [[turban]]. The woman on the right wears her hair in a long, thick braid encased in sheer fabric and twisted around her head. Her simple gown laces up the front with a single lace, 1423.
#[[:Image:Domenico Veneziano 004.jpg|Italian sleeveless gown]] of mid-century has an obvious waist seam and a skirt pleated to the bodice. The figured underdress has a high front neckline and wide upper sleeves. Hair is lightly covered with a cap and veil twisted into a turban.
#[[:Image:Lippo lippi woman.jpg|Woman at a casement]] wears a fur-lined red gown with a belt at the high waistline and full slashed sleeves over adark patterned undersleeves gathered to the elbow. Her headdress features a red chaperon, Florence, c. 1440.
#[[:Image:Battista sforza.jpg|Battista Sforza, Duchess of Urbino]] wears her hair wrapped in ribbon, coiled at her ears, and covered with a ruched veil. Her black gown is high necked in front and lower at the back, typical of Italian fashion at this time, and is worn with floral sleeves, probably attached to an underdress, 1465-70.
#[[Bianca Maria Visconti]] is depicted as the Virgin Mary with her son Galeazzo as the infant Jesus in this portrait c.1445. She is wearing a high-waisted gown of embroidered gold with tight-fitting sleeves, and her blonde hair is partially covered by a long black veil.

===Style gallery - Italy and Spain 1470s-1490s===
<gallery>
Image:Antonio Pollaiuolo 004.jpg|1 - 1470
Image:Sandro Botticelli 066.jpg|2 - 1476-80
Image:Pedro García de Benabarre St John Retable Detail.jpg|3 - 1470s
Image:Domenico Ghirlandaio Portrait of a Lady Larger.jpg|4 - c. 1490
Image:Portrait-of-a-lady-_1485_Neroccio_dei_Landi.jpg|5 - c. 1490
Image:Vittore Carpaccio 079.jpg|6 - c. 1490
Image:Gallegocatholicmonarchs isabella.jpg|7 - 1490-95
Image:La Belle Ferronière.jpg|8 - 1490-96
</gallery>
#[[:Image:Antonio Pollaiuolo 004.jpg|Florentine woman]] wears sleeves of figured silk with the fashionable pomegranate motif, 1470.
#[[:Image:Sandro Botticelli 066.jpg|Simonetta Vespucci]] wears her very long hair in a knot at the back with a tail wrapped in black cord or ribbons. A single braid is studded with pearls, and a long loose lock is looped over the braid. Her neckline is lower and squared, 1478-80.
#[[:Image:Pedro García de Benabarre St John Retable Detail.jpg|Princess Salome]] and her attendants are pictured in Catalonian dress of the 1470s. This image is one of the earliest depictions of the ''verdugada'' or [[farthingale]], a skirt stiffened with reeds set in casings, that would spread to Italy briefly in the 1480s and '90s<ref>Boucher, ''20,000 Years of Fashion''</ref>, and to France and England in the sixteenth century. The flaring chemise sleeves of striped or embroidered fabric are uniquely Spanish at this time, but the small cap and wrapped braid of hair are common to both Spain and Italy.
#[[:Image:Domenico Ghirlandaio Portrait of a Lady Larger.jpg|1490 portrait of a lady]] features the sheer pointed partlet worn over the gown that was popular in Italy at this time. This woman wears a small cap with a brim on the back of her head; it ties under her chin.
#[[:Image:Neroccio de' Landi 001.jpg|Neroocio de' Landi's "Lady"]] wears a V-necked, high-waisted gown with hanging sleeves over a floral silk gamurra with a square neckline. Her cap is of the same floral silk. Siena, c. 1490.
#[[Two Venetian Ladies|Two Venetian ladies]] with blonde frizzy hair and caps. The very high waist is typical of Venice. Note the ''[[chopine]]s'' or platform shoes to the left. As with other similar pictures, historians argue as to whether these are patrician ladies or courtesans.
#[[:Image:Gallegocatholicmonarchs isabella.jpg|Isabella of Castille]] in her crown wears an overgown with long hanging sleeves over pieced and jewelled undersleeves and a gold brocade kirtle. Her companion (probably her daughter Juana or Joanna) wears undersleeves fastened up the back over full chemise sleeves. Her red gown is open from the waist down in back and has very long hanging sleeves, one of which is looped up over her right shoulder. Her hair is braided and wrapped with a knot or tassel at the end. Spain, 1490-95.
#[[:Image:La Belle Ferronière.jpg|Da Vinci's]] [[La Belle Ferronière]] wears her long hair smoothed over her ears and pulled back into a braid. Her sleeves are tied to her gown, and the chemise beneath is pulled out in puffs between the ribbon ties. The puffs and the lower waist would be important fashion trends in the next decades.

==Men's fashion==
[[Image:Botticelli magi detail.jpg|right|thumb|200px|Italian fashion of the 1470s features short gowns worn over doublets, and hats of many shapes.]]
[[Image:Aveu René 2.jpg|right|thumb|200px|Hats in a variety of styles are also worn by this group of French noblemen in high-collared gowns lined with fur, c. 1470.]]
[[Image:Vittore Carpaccio 038.jpg|right|thumb|200px|Late in the century, a new style of loose gown with revers and collar appeared. Italy, 1495]]
===Shirt, doublet, and hose===
The basic costume of men in this period consisted of a shirt, doublet, and hose, with some sort of overgown.

Linen shirts were worn next to the skin. Toward the end of the period, shirts (French ''[[chemise]]'', Italian ''camicia'', Spanish ''camisa'') began to be full through the body and sleeves with wide, low necklines; the sleeves were pulled through the slashings or piecing of the doublet sleeves to make puffs, especially at the elbow and the back of the arm. As the cut of doublets revealed more fabric, wealthy men's shirts were often decorated with [[embroidery]] or applied braid.

Over the shirt was worn a doublet. From around the mid-century very tight-fitting doublets, belted or tailored to be tight at the waist, giving in effect a short skirt below, were fashionable, at least for the young. Sleeves were generally full, even puffy, and when worn with a large chaperon, the look was extremely stylish, but very top-heavy. Very tight hose, and long pointed shoes or thigh-boots gave a long attenuated appearance below the waist, and a chunky, solid one above. The doublet was often elaborately pleated, especially at the back, the pleats being achieved by various means. In Italy both shirt and doublet were often high, tight and collarless at the front of the neck; sometimes they are shown higher at the front than the back.

Men of all classes wore short ''braies'' or [[Breeches#Etymology|breeches]], a loose undergarment, usually made of linen, which was held up by a belt. [[Hose (clothing)|Hose]] or [[chausses]] made out of wool were used to cover the legs, and were generally brightly colored. Early hose sometimes had leather soles and were worn without shoes or boots. Hose were generally tied to the breech belt, or to the breeches themselves, or to a [[Doublet (clothing)|doublet]].

As doublets became shorter, hose reached to the waist rather than the hips, and were sewn together into a single garment with a pouch or flap to cover the front opening; this evolved into the [[codpiece]].

The hose exposed by short tops were, especially in Italy late in the century, often strikingly patterned, parti-coloured (different colours for each leg, or vertically divided), or embroidered. Hose were cut on the [[bias (textile)|cross-grain or bias]] for stretch. <ref name="Kohler" />

===Gowns and outerwear===
The [[Houppelande]], in Italy called the ''cioppa'', is the characteristic overgarment of the wealthy in the first half of the 15th century.<ref name="Laver">Laver, ''Concise History of Costume and Fashion''</ref>. It was essentially a gown with fullness falling from the shoulders in organ pleats<ref>Parry, ''History of Costume''</ref> and very full sleeves often reaching to the floor with, at the start of the century, a high collar. The houppelande could be lined in fur, and the hem and sleeves might be dagged or cut into scallops. It was initially often worn belted, but later mostly hanging straight. The length of the garment shortened from around the ankle to above the knee over this period. The floor-length sleeves were later wrist-length but very full, forming a bag or sack sleeve, or were worn off the arm, hanging ornamentally behind.

A sideless overgown or [[tabard]], called a ''giornea'' in Italy and a ''journade'' in France<ref>Boucher, François: ''20,000 Years of Fashion'', p, 197</ref>, was popular. It was usually pleated and was worn hanging loose or belted. Young men wore them short and older men wore them calf- or ankle-length.

The middle of the century in Burgundy saw what seems to have been the earliest occurrence of the male fashion for dressing all in black, which was to reappear so strongly in the "Spanish" style of the mid-16th&ndash;17th century and again in the 19th&ndash;20th centuries. This was apparently begun by Duke [[Philip the Good]].<ref>Anne Hollander, ''Seeing through Clothes'',1978, The Viking Press,ISBN 0380487772</ref>

In [[Venice]], the patrician class, after the age of joining the [[Republic of Venice#Government|Great Council]], wore their long red robes as a uniform virtually unchanged throughout the century. In contrast, the young men and the famous [[courtesan]]s of the city dressed very extravagantly.

In the last decades of the century, a new style of [[gown]] appeared; this was of various lengths, generally worn unbelted, and featured wide turned back revers and collar.<ref>Parry, ''History of Costume'', p. 219-20</ref>

Short or long [[cloak]]s or mantles were worn overall for ceremonial occasions and in bad weather; these typically fastened on one shoulder.

===Headgear===
[[Image:Italienischer Meister des 15. Jahrhunderts 001.jpg|right|thumb|200px|Young Italian men wear brimless caps, ''The Betrothal'', c. 1470<ref>Boucher, ''20,000 Years of Fashion'', p. 214</ref>]]
Early in the century, the hood remained a common component of dress for all classes, although it was frequently worn around the neck as a cowl or twisted into the fantastical shapes of the [[chaperon (headgear)|chaperon]]. [[Hat]]s of various styles&mdash;tall-crowned with small brims or no brims at all, or low-crowned with wider brims pulled to a point in front&mdash;began to compete with the draped chaperon, especially in Italy.<ref>Laver, ''Concise History of Costume and Fashion''</ref> A brimless scarlet cap became nearly universal for young Florentines in particular, and was widely worn by older men and those in other cities.

In mid-century, a bowl haircut with the hair shaved at the back of the neck was stylish. In Germany, and briefly in Venice, a wide shock of frizzy blond hair was often seen on images of lovers (and angels) in the later part of the century - less often in portraits. By the end of the century, shoulder-length hair became fashionable, a trend that would continue into the [[1500-1550 in fashion|early 16th century]].
<br style="clear: all"/>

===Style gallery 1400-1450===
<gallery>
Image:Livre de Chasse 51v.jpg|1 - 1405-10
Image:John the Fearless D of Burgundy.jpg|2 - 1400-19
Image:Masaccio 032.jpg|3 - c. 1425
Image:Jan van Eyck 091.jpg|4 - 1433
Image:Chancellor rolllin detail.jpg|5 - c.1435
Image:Chausses 1440 Cleeves.jpg|6 - 1440
Image:Pellegrinaio Santa Maria della Scala n4 detail.jpg|7 - 1442
Image:Van der weyden miniature detail Philip.jpg|8 - 1447-8
</gallery>
#[[:Image:Livre de Chasse 51v.jpg|The lord]] on the left wears a long figured houppelande with full sleeves lined in fur, while the men of his household wear short solid-coloured gowns with parti-coloured or matching hose. Several of the men wear hoods around their necks, and some wear hats. France, ''Livre de Chasse'', 1405-10.
#[[:Image:John the Fearless D of Burgundy.jpg|John the Fearless]] (d. 1419), Duke of Burgundy and father of Philip the Good, wears a fur-lined black houppelande with high neck and dagged sleeves over a red doublet. His bag-shaped hat has a rolled brim and is decorated with a jewel. Early 15th century.
#[[:Image:Masaccio 032.jpg|Young man]] wears a draped chaperon and a dark gown over a reddish doublet. Note the characteristic high front neckline compared to the back neckline, Florence, 1425.
#[[:Image:Jan van Eyck 091.jpg|A chaperon]] worn in elaborate twists, 1433.
#[[:Image:Chancellor rolllin detail.jpg|Chancellor Rolin]] wears a bold floral patterned gown with fur trim and bag sleeves. The "bowl" haircut with the back of the neck shaved was popular in mid-century.
#[[:Image:Chausses 1440 Cleeves.jpg|Hose or chausses]] worn with braies and tied to a belt, 1440.
#[[:Image:Pellegrinaio Santa Maria della Scala n4 detail.jpg|Back view]] of a knee-length Italian ''cioppa'' or houppelande of figured silk. One sleeve is turned back to the shoulder to reveal the lining and the doublet sleeve beneath. Sienna, 1442.
#[[:Image:Van der weyden miniature detail Philip.jpg|Philip the Good]], Duke of Burgundy, wears an elaborately draped chaperon with a black-on-black figured silk short gown with width at the shoulder, 1447-48.

===Style gallery 1450-1500===
<gallery>
Image:Meister des Jouvenel des Ursins 002 detail.jpg|1 - 1460s
Image:Le Livre du cœur d'amour épris1 edited.jpg|2 - late 1460s
Image:Antoine bastard of burgundy memling.jpg|3 - 1467-70
Image:Arsen 5104 f14 detail2.jpg|4 - 1468-70
Image:Particoloredhose.jpg|5 - c. 1470
Image:Sandro Botticelli 067.jpg|6 - 1478
Image:Hans Memling 024.jpg|7 - 1487
Image:Albrecht Dürer 103.jpg|8 - 1498
</gallery>
#[[:Image:Meister des Jouvenel des Ursins 002 detail.jpg|Back view]] of the conjoined hose of the fifteeth century. The man on the right has slashed undersleeves. Note V-shaped back neckline, 1460s.
#[[:Image:Le Livre du cœur d'amour épris1 edited.jpg|France, late 1460s]] Short doublet, heavily pleated, with chaperon and thigh boots.
#[[:Image:Antoine bastard of burgundy memling.jpg|Antoine, Bastard of Burgundy]], all in black, wears a soft "sugarloaf" hat and a doublet laced at the neck with a collar. He wears the emblem of the [[Order of the Golden Fleece]] around his neck, 1467-70.
#[[:Image:Arsen 5104 f14 detail2.jpg|A prince]] (right) wears a long floral patterned gown, while his attendants wear very short doublets with hose. All wear long pointed shoes, France, 1468-70.
#[[:Image:Particoloredhose.jpg|Parti-coloured hose]] are worn with a sideless gown belted at the waist. Italy, c. 1470.
#[[:Image:Sandro Botticelli 067.jpg|Giuliano de' Medici]] wears the high collarless Italian style at the neck, 1478.
#[[:Image:Hans Memling 024.jpg|Maarten van Nieuvenhove]] wears an open gown fastened across his chest with pairs of ribbon ties. Beneath the gown he wears a brown velvet doublet with sleeves buttoned to the wrist. Bruges, 1487.
#[[:Image:Albrecht Dürer 103.jpg|At the very end of the century]], [[Albrecht Dürer]]'s self-portrait shows the influence of Italian fashion: His low-necked shirt or chemise of fine linen, gathered and trimmed with a band of gold braid or embroidery, is worn under an open-fronted doublet and a cloak tied over one shoulder. His hair is worn long, under a draped pointed hat with a [[tassel]], 1498.

==Footwear==

During most of the fifteenth century, both men and women wore narrow shoes with pointed toes. Very long pointed shoes, called ''[[poulaine]]s'' or ''crackowes'' (after their reputed [[Poland|Polish]] origin), were popular early in the period.<ref>Laver, ''Concise History of Costume'', pages 71-72</ref>. They stayed in fashion longer in Northern Europe. [[Pattens]], or wooden [[clog]]s with cloth straps over the instep, were worn over poulaines and other soft shoes outdoors and in public areas (see picture below and [[:Image:Walraversijde49.jpg|photo]]). A blunt toed-shoe began to appear in the last decades of the century.
<gallery>
Image:Jan van Eyck 004.jpg|1 - 1434
Image:Renaud de montauban banquet detail poulaines.jpg|2 - mid-century
Image:Fastolf_Master_-_Juni_detail.jpg|3 - c. 1450
Image:Hieronymus Bosch 093 pouches and pattens.jpg|4 - 1475-80

</gallery>
#[[:Image:Jan van Eyck 004.jpg|Pattens]] from the [[Arnolfini Portrait]], 1434
#[[:Image:Renaud de montauban banquet detail poulaines.jpg|Servant]] wears extreme poulaines, from an illustrated manuscript of [[Renaud de Montauban]].
#[[:Image:Fastolf_Master_-_Juni_detail.jpg|Man reaping grain]] wears ankle-high shoes over hose rolled at the knee. Working-class shoes changed only slowly over the centuries. C. 1450
#[[:Image:Hieronymus Bosch 093 pouches and pattens.jpg|Middle-class]] costume features ankle-high shoes with a natural toe. The man on the right wears pattens, 1475-80.

==Children's fashion==
<gallery>
Image:Van der weyden miniature Charles.jpg|1 - 1447-48
Image:Andrea Mantegna 004.jpg|2 - 1461
Image:Andrea Mantegna 083.jpg|3 - 1474
Image:Hugo van der Goes 004 detail2.jpg|4 - 1476-78
</gallery>
#[[:Image:Van der weyden miniature Charles.jpg|Charles]], son of Philip III of Burgundy, wears a gold floral figured short gown, black hose, and pointed shoes with pattens underneath, and a "pudding-basin" haircut 1447-48.
#[[:Image:Andrea Mantegna 004.jpg|Young boy]] holding a teething ring wears a short gown with a sash and open-toed shoes, Italy, 1461.
#[[:Image:Andrea Mantegna 083.jpg|Two Gonzaga princes]] wear the family colours with parti-coloured hose with ornamental points (laces).
#[[:Image:Hugo van der Goes 004 detail2.jpg|Margherita Portinari]] a banker's daughter of Bruges<ref>Miller, I: "Miraculous childbirth and the Portinari altarpiece", ''The Art Bulletin'', June 1, 1995, online at http://www.encyclopedia.com/doc/1G1-17239634.html; retrieve 3/19/2007</ref> wears a green gown laced up the front with a single lace over a dark kirtle. Her hair is worn loose under a black cap with a pendant jewel, Netherlands, 1476-78.

==Working class clothing==

<gallery>
Image:Livre de Chasse 40v.jpg|1 - 1405-10
Image:Les Très Riches Heures du duc de Berry juillet braies.jpg|2 - 1410
Image:Les Très Riches Heures du duc de Berry juillet sheep shearing.jpg|3 - 1410
Image:Les Très Riches Heures du duc de Berry juin haymaking.jpg|4 - 1410
Image:Fra Angelico Ship Detail.jpg|5 - 1437
Image:Fra Angelico 054.jpg|6 - late 1440s
Image:Hieronymus Bosch 093 detail 1.jpg|7 - 1475-80
Image:492px-Vittore Carpaccio 004 detail.jpg|8 - 1494
</gallery>
#[[:Image:Livre de Chasse 40v.jpg|Older huntsmen]] wear looser gowns belted at the waist while younger men wear fashionable short gowns fitted through the body and belted at the hip. The higher-ranking figures wear less practical clothes and chaperons, ''Livre de Chasse''.
#[[:Image:Les Très Riches Heures du duc de Berry juillet braies.jpg|Peasant reaping]] in linen braies and shirt, ''Les Très Riches Heures du duc de Berry''.
#[[:Image:Les Très Riches Heures du duc de Berry juillet sheep shearing.jpg|Man and woman shearing sheep]]. She wears a black hood with a long liripipe and a scrip or bag at her waist. He wears a floppy black hat tied under the chin, ''Les Très Riches Heures du duc de Berry''.
#[[:Image:Les Très Riches Heures du duc de Berry juin haymaking.jpg|Women raking hay]] work barefoot and wear their kirtles looped up over long-sleeved linen smocks, ''Les Très Riches Heures du duc de Berry''.
#[[:Image:Fra Angelico Ship Detail.jpg|Workmen]] on a dock wear short gowns with hats, Italy, 1437.
#[[:Image:Fra Angelico 054.jpg|The very poor of Florence receive alms]] in well-worn and basic versions of the clothes of the more prosperous.
#[[:Image:Hieronymus Bosch 093 detail 1.jpg|Workman]] showing fastening of the hose to the short doublet by means of points or ties, 1475-80.
#[[:Image:492px-Vittore Carpaccio 004 detail.jpg|Venetian]] [[gondolier]]s wear open-fronted, slashed doublets and hose divided into upper and lower sections, 1494.


==See also==
==See also==
{{portal|New York}}
{{Commonscat|15th century fashion}}
*[[Arnolfini portrait]]
*[[Byzantine dress]]
*[[Chaperon (headgear)|Chaperon]]
*[[Hennin]]
*[[Houppelande]]


==Notes==
==References==
<references />
{{reflist|2}}


==External links==
==External links==
* [http://www.columbiacountyny.com Columbia County, NY]
*[http://www.metmuseum.org/Works_Of_Art/viewOne.asp?dep=20&item=12%2E49%2E8&viewMode=0&section=description Late 15th century Italian (Venice) Velvet at the Metropolitan Museum of Art]
* [http://www.usgennet.org/usa/ny/state/his/bk3/ch5.html Early history of Columbia County]
*[http://www.renaissancewoman.net/realmofvenus/seamstress/figuredfabrics.htm 15th and 16th century figured textiles at Renaissance Woman]
* [http://www.hrvh.org/collections/inst-intro.htm?inst=23 Columbia County Historical Society Digital Collections]
*[http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/sca/15th/ 15th Century Female Flemish Dress: A Portfolio of Images, by Hope Greenberg]
* {{dmoz|Regional/North_America/United_States/New_York/Counties/Columbia|Columbia County}}
*[http://www.florentine-persona.com/femflorence.html Women's Clothing in 15th Century Florence]
* [http://ccnydems.org Columbia County Democratic Committee]
*[http://www.getty.edu/art/exhibitions/flemish/theme_1a.html Burgundian wedding c1470, from the Getty]
*[http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/burgundian-reference.html Burgundian women's dress] including [http://cadieux.mediumaevum.com/burgundian-hennin.html Images of Burgundian hennins]
*[http://www.florentine-persona.com/menflorence.html Men's clothing in 15th century Florence]
*[http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/glossary.html Glossary of some medieval clothing terms]
*[http://cleftlands.case.edu/BurgundianCostume.pdf Article on Burgundian women's dress]

==References==


{{Columbia County, New York}}
*Black, J. Anderson, and Madge Garland: ''A History of Fashion'', 1975, ISBN 0-6880-2893-4
{{New York}}
*Boucher, François: ''20,000 Years of Fashion'', Harry Abrams, 1966
*Crowfoot, Elizabeth, Frances Prichard and Kay Staniland, ''Textiles and Clothing c. 1150 -c. 1450'', Museum of London, 1992, ISBN 0-1129-0445-9
*Favier, Jean, ''Gold and Spices: The Rise of Commerce in the Middle Ages'', London, Holmes and Meier, 1998, ISBN 0841912327
*Kõhler, Carl: ''A History of Costume'', Dover Publications reprint, 1963, from 1928 Harrap translation from the German, ISBN 0-4862-1030-8
*Koslin, Désirée and Janet E. Snyder, eds.: ''Encountering Medieval Textiles and Dress: Objects, texts, and Images'', Macmillan, 2002, ISBN 0-3122-9377-1
*Laver, James: ''The Concise History of Costume and Fashion'', Abrams, 1979
*Payne, Blanche: ''History of Costume from the Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century'', Harper & Row, 1965. No ISBN for this edition; ASIN B0006BMNFS


{{coord|42.25|-73.63|display=title|type:adm2_region:US-NY_source:UScensus1990}}
===Further reading===


[[Category:Columbia County, New York| ]]
*Newman, Paul B.: ''Daily Life in the Middle Ages''


[[ar:مقاطعة كولومبيا، نيويورك]]
{{History of fashion}}
[[Category:History of clothing (Europe)]]
[[cs:Columbia County (New York)]]
[[de:Columbia County (New York)]]
[[Category:Medieval costume]]
[[es:Condado de Columbia (Nueva York)]]
[[Category:15th century|Fashion]]
[[bpy:কলম্বিয়া কাউন্টি, নিউ ইয়র্ক]]
[[it:Contea di Columbia (New York)]]
[[nl:Columbia County (New York)]]
[[no:Columbia County (New York)]]
[[nds:Columbia County (New York)]]
[[pl:Hrabstwo Columbia (Nowy Jork)]]
[[pt:Condado de Columbia (Nova Iorque)]]
[[sv:Columbia County, New York]]
[[zh:哥倫比亞縣 (紐約州)]]

Revision as of 06:24, 13 October 2008

There is also a Town of Columbia in New York.
Columbia County
County
Official seal of Columbia County
Seal
Map of New York highlighting Columbia County
Location within the U.S. state of New York
Map of the United States highlighting New York
New York's location within the U.S.
Coordinates: 42°15′N 73°38′W / 42.25°N 73.63°W / 42.25; -73.63
Country United States
State New York
Founded1786
SeatHudson
Area
 • Total648 sq mi (1,680 km2)
 • Land636 sq mi (1,650 km2)
 • Water13 sq mi (30 km2)  1.93%
Population
 (2000)
 • Total63,094
 • Density100/sq mi (38/km2)
Websitewww.columbiacountyny.org

Columbia County is a county located in the U.S. state of New York. As of the 2000 census, the population was 63,094. The county seat is Hudson. The name comes from the Latin feminine form of the name of Christopher Columbus, which was at the time of the formation of the county a popular proposal for the name of the United States of America. Columbia County is part of the Albany-Schenectady-Amsterdam, NY Combined Statistical Area.

History

The first exploration of Columbia County was in 1609, when Henry Hudson, an explorer, sailed across the Atlantic, and up the Hudson River. An accident to his craft forced him to stop at what is now known as Columbia County, and search around for food and supplies.[1] The Americans that had lived there were the Mohican Indians. In 1612, a trade was established to colonize regions of the land. This led to the creation of Fort Orange (today Albany)and New Amsterdam (today the city of New York). This allowed traders to stop along the shores of the Hudson, which led to the growth of small settlements that were intended to supply the trader's ships with supplies.[1]

In 1649, the region of land near Claverack were purchased and in 1667, more land was purchased.[2] This brought the settlement of the Dutch, which led to the development and growth of the regions. In 1664, the English took over New Netherland and renamed it the Province of New York. At this time, Fort Orange was renamed Albany.[2]

A significant settlement developed in 1710, when 1200 Germans were brought to Livingston Manor, which was located in what is now known as Dutchess County, and is now known as Germantown.[2] They were brought as indentured servants by England's Queen Anne and New York's Governor Hunter to make tar from the pine trees in the Catskill Mountains.[2]

Columbia County was formed in 1786 from portions of Albany County. In 1799, the southern boundary of Columbia County was moved soutward to include that portion of Livingston Manor located in Dutchess County.

Government and Politics

Columbia County government is controlled politically by Republican elected officials as it has been for decades. But from 1996 - 2007 new voter registrations by Democrats have outpaced those by Republicans by a margin of 4 to 1. [3] This substantial shift in party affiliation is due in large part to an influx of people from New York and other cosmopolitan locales who now live either full or part-time in Columbia County. The rise in the number of Democrats has resulted in there being a virtual tie in the numbers of Democrats, Republicans and those not registered in a political party in Columbia County. In 2006 Kirsten Gillibrand (D-Hudson) scored a major upset unseating three-term incumbent Republican Congressman, John Sweeney (R-Troy). In the 2007 election cycle, Democrats came within 2 seats of taking control of the Board of Supervisors

The Board of Supervisors under the leadership of Supervisor Art Baer (R-Hillsdale) is functioning in a coalition government of sorts, with members in the minority having greater access to information and inclusion in process than was provided in most of the past decades. The political makeup of the electorate is at a virtual tie between Republicans, Democrats and those not in a political party. But the trend has been an increase in Democrats and decline in Republican voters, setting the stage for the Columbia County Democratic Committee to achieve a shift in power, perhaps as early as the 2009 elections. In the most recent Presidential elections Columbia County is considered a Democratic leaning county. John Kerry won 51% or a 5 point margin over George Bush in 2004.

Geography

Columbia County is in the eastern part of New York State, southeast of Albany and immediately west of the Massachusetts border. The western border is the Hudson River.

According to the U.S. Census Bureau, the county has a total area of 648 square miles (1,679 km²), of which, 636 square miles (1,647 km²) of it is land and 13 square miles (32 km²) of it (1.93%) is water.

The terrain is gentle, rolling hills, rising sharply into the Taconic and Berkshire Mountains along the state line.

The highest point is on the Massachusetts state line near the summit of Alander Mountain, at approximately 2,110 feet (643 m) above sea level, in the town of Copake. The lowest point is at or near sea level along the Hudson.

Adjacent counties

Demographics

Historical population
CensusPop.Note%±
179027,496—
180035,32228.5%
181032,390−8.3%
182038,33018.3%
183039,9074.1%
184043,2528.4%
185043,073−0.4%
186047,1729.5%
187047,044−0.3%
188047,9281.9%
189046,172−3.7%
190043,211−6.4%
191043,6581.0%
192038,930−10.8%
193041,6176.9%
194041,464−0.4%
195043,1824.1%
196047,3229.6%
197051,5198.9%
198059,48715.5%
199062,9825.9%
200063,0940.2%
2007[4] (est.)62,363Expression error: Unrecognized punctuation character "".
Source[5]

As of the censusTemplate:GR of 2000, there were 63,094 people, 24,796 households, and 16,588 families residing in the county. The population density was 99 people per square mile (38/km²). There were 30,207 housing units at an average density of 48 per square mile (18/km²). The racial makeup of the county was 92.09% White, 4.52% Black or African American, 0.21% Native American, 0.80% Asian, 0.03% Pacific Islander, 0.90% from other races, and 1.45% from two or more races. 2.53% of the population were Hispanic or Latino of any race. 17.2% were of German, 14.7% Italian, 14.5% Irish, 9.0% English, 6.3% Polish and 6.1% American ancestry according to Census 2000. 94.0% spoke English and 2.1% Spanish as their first language.

There were 24,796 households out of which 29.90% had children under the age of 18 living with them, 52.20% were married couples living together, 10.30% had a female householder with no husband present, and 33.10% were non-families. 27.10% of all households were made up of individuals and 11.50% had someone living alone who was 65 years of age or older. The average household size was 2.43 and the average family size was 2.95.

In the county the population was spread out with 24.10% under the age of 18, 6.40% from 18 to 24, 26.90% from 25 to 44, 26.30% from 45 to 64, and 16.40% who were 65 years of age or older. The median age was 40 years. For every 100 females there were 99.00 males. For every 100 females age 18 and over, there were 95.30 males.

The median income for a household in the county was $41,915, and the median income for a family was $49,357. Males had a median income of $34,702 versus $25,878 for females. The per capita income for the county was $22,265. About 6.40% of families and 9.00% of the population were below the poverty line, including 11.80% of those under age 18 and 6.80% of those age 65 or over.

Cities, towns, and villages

=> labels in parentheses indicate official political designation.
North: Rensselaer County
West: Hudson River
Greene and Ulster Counties		 Columbia County East: Berkshire County, Massachusetts
South: Dutchess County

See also

References

  1. ^ a b Columbia County, NY.com. "History of Columbia County, New York". Retrieved 2008-02-11.
  2. ^ a b c d Rootsweb. "History of Columbia County". Retrieved 2008-02-11.
  3. ^ [1].|New York State - Board of Elections - Enrollment by County
  4. ^ Population Estimates as of July 1, 2007 by U.S. Census Bureau
  5. ^ New York State Department of Economic Development

External links

42°15′N 73°38′W / 42.25°N 73.63°W / 42.25; -73.63

Retrieved from "https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=1400–1500_in_European_fashion&oldid=244935842"