German Gate (Metz)

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German Gate, view around 1900

The German Gate ( French Porte des Allemands ) is located in the French city ​​of Metz , Lorraine . The gate system , which is the only one of 17 medieval city gates of the Metz city wall, was named after the neighboring former hospital of the Teutonic Order , which was established around 1210 near the church of St. Eucharius ( Saint-Eucaire ). The name should therefore also be translated with Deutschherrentor . The Torburg formed the main entrance to the city of Metz from the east.

historical overview

German Gate, city side

Until the middle of the 12th century, the city of Metz was only enclosed by the city wall from late antiquity, which was renewed and slightly expanded at the end of the 9th and beginning of the 10th century. When several suburbs developed outside the city walls in the 12th century, the Metz authorities decided to protect the city's economic interests by building a new wall. The work was completed around 1230. With a total length of 5500 meters, the new city wall now protected 20,000 residents in an urban area of ​​160 hectares. In the following centuries, numerous works and extensions changed the fortifications, especially at the end of the 15th century, when the original main wall from the 13th century was reinforced by a lower wall in front of it.

At the beginning of the 16th century, the city wall comprised twelve gates and 76 towers, which were maintained by the city administration and the Metz guilds. Half of the towers are reminiscent of the city's guilds, which were also responsible for guarding and supplying them, such as the barbers, bakers, butchers, stock market makers (bag makers), saddlers, talc candle makers, wax candle makers, boiler makers, the carpenters, the wagner, the chamois tanners, the red tanners, the white tanners, the nail smiths, the pewter foundries, the shoemakers, the cutlers, the roofers, the cloth weavers, the makers of buckled shoes, the fishermen, the herring dealers, the wool dealers, the farriers, the bricklayers, the haberdashery dealers, the furriers, the painters, the tin foundry, the middlemen, the tailors, the cooper, the weavers, the rag dealers, the winemakers, and a. The remaining towers were financed by the city and guarded by payees.

The wall proved its resilience in numerous sieges and wars between the 13th and the middle of the 16th century. After that, the structure of the defensive structures deteriorated. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the Metz city wall was changed by Vauban and Louis de Cormontaigne . It was integrated into the new fortifications with their bastions and in some places it was razed in favor of the new defensive structures. During the Reichslandzeit (1871-1918) further elements of the city wall were torn down between 1899 and 1905. Ultimately, only 1000 meters of wall (one sixth of the original medieval wall length) northeast of the historic city center of Metz, the former Seillefront, remained at a reduced height and without the original battlements.

Construction of the city gate

The German Gate was built around 1230 as a passageway guarded by two slender round towers with conical roofs. This older gateway was plastered with mortar. Two further, much larger fortification towers with crenellated wreaths and the pointed arch bridge over the Seille with a wall-protected entrance were added in 1445 by the city architect Henri de Ranconval and expanded in 1480 with a wide arcade on the west side of the bridge. The part of the Torburg located out of town was built at an angle to the bridge in order to avoid a direct line of fire from possible attackers. This younger bulwark consists of an elaborate ashlar made of Jaumont stone on the outside. On the towers you can still see traces of impact from shots fired during the siege of the city by Emperor Charles V in 1552. The youngest component of the Torburg is the bridgehead built by Philipp Dex as a triangular bulwark between 1526 and 1529 ; two new firing chambers were added in 1550.

During the renovations of the Metz city ​​fortifications by the royal French fortress builders Vauban (around 1680) and Cormontaigne (in the years 1744–1752), the German Gate was the only medieval city gate to be included unchanged in the new defense concept. The gate castle was restored in the years 1859–1862 by the Direction du Génie Militaire and the Metz Academy. The gate system underwent further restoration by the Metz cathedral builder and Lorraine monument conservator Paul Tornow and his assistant Wilhelm Schmitz from 1892. The crenellated wreaths were also restored. The city of Metz purchased the building in November 1900 and set up a museum in it in 1907 . During the Second World War , the German Gate was badly damaged by artillery fire in October 1944 . On November 18, the destroyed bridge was made accessible again by means of a temporary wooden walkway. The first restoration work began in 1946; Since the extensive renovation in 1968, the gate has been accessible to pedestrians again. On December 3, 1966, the German Gate was officially listed as a historical monument . The most recent renovations were carried out in 1996. After the renovation work carried out in 2013, the gate system is used as a cultural venue.

Reconstructions of the historical appearance of the German Gate

Outre-Seille district

Fortifications of the city of Metz, plan of the city of Metz from 1652

The German Gate controlled the road from Mainz to Metz, an old Roman road that runs as "Rue des Allemands" through the "Outre-Seille" district into the city center and to Metz's Stefansdom . The district takes its name from the fact that up to 1903 a side arm of the Seille flowed at the place of today's street "Rue Haute-Seille" , which was then filled in for hygienic reasons. From the point of view of the city center, the quarter was "beyond the Seille". Outre-Seille was enclosed as an island between the side arm and the main arm of the Seille and was outside the walled city center until the 13th century. The quarter was a rural suburb of medieval Metz. The street name "Rue du Champé" is a reminder of the fields (Champ = field) that were cultivated here until the 13th century. The suburb of Outre-Seille only became part of Metz with the construction of the new city wall.

The "Rue des Allemands" (German street) takes its name from the hospital of the Teutonic Knights, which has been there since the beginning of the 13th century. The houses on the street have low roofs and are made of yellow Jaumont stone . The origins of numerous houses on the street go back to the Middle Ages. The St. Eucharius Church (St. Eucaire) on the road was first mentioned in a document for the year 942. A relic of St. Blaise of Sebaste is kept here, in whose honor there is a pilgrimage every February 3rd, during which small breads and pastries are blessed and then consumed by the faithful to prevent sore throats .

In addition to the old Roman road from Metz to Mainz (Rue des Allemands), the Outre-Seille district was still crossed by the Rue Mazelle (Mazellenstraße) as a traffic axis from the Porte Mazelle (Mazellentor). It made the connection between Metz and Strasbourg . Mazellenstraße takes its name from the Roman market hall ( Macellum = market hall), because the Metz cattle market took place on Mazellenplatz from Roman times until the middle of the 20th century. The quarter thus had two gates out of town, the German Gate and the Mazellentor, both of which led over the Seille. The Seille, a right tributary of the Moselle, flows 138 km from the Salzland (Saulnois) to Metz, where it flows into the Moselle at the Teufelsturm (Tour du Diable). On the river, which was navigable from the 9th to the 16th century, salt was transported from the Salzgau to Metz on flat barges and stored here in the salt vaults of the "Rue Saulnerie". The name of the Seille goes back to the word salt (French "sel"). The water of the river was also used by the tanners of the "Rue des Tanneurs" (Gerberstrasse), who also disposed of their bad-smelling waste in the river. The animal skins were hung up to dry in the roof trusses and galleries of the tanner's houses. The old tanner's houses were replaced by new buildings in the 1980s that more or less imitate the old architecture. The Seille was also used for defense purposes. With the help of weirs, the surrounding area of ​​the German Gate was flooded.

In the Middle Ages, the Outre-Seille district was dominated by the workshops and houses of the craftsmen; later the workers settled here. In the 20th century, the area was considered to be a social and hygienic problem district, so that the Mayor of Metz, Raymond Mondon, wanted to completely level it to the ground in the 1960s, similar to the western Pontiffroy district on the opposite bank of the Moselle. Only the historic churches should be preserved. However, under Mayor Jean-Marie Rausch, the quarter with its dense historical buildings was subjected to a general renovation. Today there are numerous antique shops, cabinet makers, restorers and bookbinders in the quarter.

The "Rue des Allemands" runs from the Deutsches Tor to the "Place des Pareiges". The square takes its name from the Pareigen, the patrician families of the free imperial city of Metz, who made up the members of the city council that ruled the imperial city from 1234 to 1552.

Niederwall

Metz, Deutsches Tor, view down the rope, on the left the caponier of Philippe Dex
Metz, caponier depicting Philippe Dex / d'Esch

In front of the capital city wall is a low wall from the 16th century, which was supposed to withstand the penetration power of the modern cannons of the time and made it possible to bombard the enemy at two different levels. The Niederwall was built between 1526 and 1530 under the aegis of the patrician Philippe d'Esch / Philippe Dex / Philippe Desch, partly on pillars and consists of three long, straight sections. The "Tour d'Esch" is built at an obtuse angle so that the attacker can be shot at the bottom of the trench with two cannons. The richly decorated tower based on Italian models was built in 1527 about 30 m from the German Gate. On the base there are bells, moon faces and diamond blocks alternating. The artillery tower was originally crowned by a Janus-headed bust of Philipp von Esch. The loopholes of the Eschturm are designed as monster faces and devil grimaces. Above that there are small openings for ventilation of the interior as well as additional loopholes.

The caponier, richly decorated with bas-reliefs, shows, among other things, its client Philippe Dex, the wall administrator at the time and responsible for the maintenance of the fortifications of the city of Metz. The commander of the German Gate was shown to mock the enemy with his pants down. He stretches his grimacing head between his legs and shows the viewer his drooping genitals and his open anus . The Niederwall strengthened the city wall erected in the 13th century and supplemented the city's defense system. In the event of an attack, the city defenders now had two fields of fire. At the end of the 14th century, a defunct tower (tin boiler maker tower, Tour des Potiers d'étain) connected the city wall from the 13th century and the part of the wall that was subsequently built in the 14th century to protect the La Grève district on today's Boulevard Maginot had been.

Fortification of the La Grève district

German Gate, field side

The initially completely unpaved area at the confluence of the two arms of the rope, "La Grève" (Stadenviertel), was enclosed by a wall at the end of the 14th century. Presumably in the Middle Ages a wooden framework supplemented this defense system, from which the Metz soldiers could shoot arrows and projectiles at the attackers below them. In a northerly direction the tower "Tour des Esprits" (ghost tower) or "Tour des Barbiers et Tour des Chandeliers de Cire" (bath and candle maker tower) rises at the corner of the wall. It was badly damaged when the city was conquered in 1944, so that on the upper floor of its interior one can see a ribbed vault and a fireplace. Here the tower guard warmed up on cold days. With its cannon loops, the tower shows the adaptation of the defenses to the technical development of firearms and served to defend the two adjacent water gates of the Seille. The remains of the bridge "Pont des Grilles de la Basse-Seille" (lattice bridge on the lower Seille) still remind of the course of the Seille, which flowed here until 1904 and was then filled in. The bridge originally served as the water gate of the Seille at a height of 13 m over the river. Today, after the river bed has been filled, 6 m are still visible and the formerly high structures and grids are missing. In the 1930s, the inner walls of the lattice gates were removed. The stone blocks of the two vaults are provided with numerous stonemason's marks, which the medieval craftsmen used to mark their stones.

In front of the "Porte en Chandeleirue" (Kesselschmiedetor), which has been walled up since the end of the Middle Ages, a part of the once 200 m long coppice reinforces the main wall, which is reinforced here by the so-called city towers (Tours de la Cité). Their names remind us that in the Middle Ages the Metz city administration was responsible for their maintenance. The city wall, which was built at the end of the 12th century at the confluence of the Seille and Moselle rivers to protect a densely built-up area, was shortened by 6 m in height from 1906 when the area was filled in. The Niederwall, which was renovated around the middle of the 19th century, is almost invisible in the 1980s due to the construction of a promenade.

Immediately in front of the breakthrough, which was created in the intermediate wall for the main road Metz-Ost, the Gothic arch construction of the "Tour des Chandeliers" (candle maker tower) from the 14th century rises up on the city wall. The chimney-like construction is the remnant of a wall tower on which a battlement lay. Here you could bring the attacker into distress through a concealed throwing opening. The tower also served to defend a concealed exit in the fortification wall. Due to the backfilling of the area at the beginning of the 20th century, the height of the candle maker tower has been greatly shortened.

Fortification section "Porte Sainte-Barbe"

Down the rope, after the three city towers, there was the large Porte Sainte-Barbe (St. Barbarator) with a river bridge and massive front gate on a river island. A wooden bridge led from the cuboid entrance gate, which was built at the end of the 14th century, to the other bank of the river. The construction time of the entire gate system extended from the 13th to the 15th century. The city motto of the free imperial city of Metz was carved over the tower-flanked gate passage of the barbarian: "Si nous avons paix dedans, nous avons paix dehors" ("If we have peace inside, we will also have peace outside."). The inscription, which is currently in the Cour d'Or city museum in Metz, was created in connection with a medieval popular uprising. In the years 1324 to 1326 there was a conflict between the city government, the Paraiges (from Latin "Parentela" or "Paragium": clan), with the Count of Luxembourg, John of Bohemia , the Archbishop of Trier, Baldwin of Luxembourg , the Count of Bar, Edward I , and the Duke of Lorraine, Frederick IV . The so-called " War of the Four Lords " was contractually ended on March 3, 1326, but as a result of the devastating economic situation a popular uprising broke out in August 1326, in which the patrician upper class of the Free Imperial City of Metz was expelled. They then besieged the city and were able to force the restitution of the old balance of power through starvation. There were further uprisings in the city in 1347, 1356 and 1405/1406. The leaders of the revolts were banished or drowned by the Metz city oligarchy. The inscription demonstratively affixed above the barbarian should call every city citizen to reason and lead to the acceptance of the balance of power.

The city gate and its immediate vicinity were demolished in 1904 in favor of the construction of the Metz-Diedenhofen / Thionville railway line and replaced at the beginning of the 20th century by the "Pont Sainte-Barbe" (St. Barbara bridge). As a result, there has been a gap of 150 m in the city wall since then. In 1980 the so-called "Porte de la Madeleine" (Magdalenentor) was built into the preserved city wall. The neo-classical gate belonged to a prison that was set up opposite St. Martin's Church after the French Revolution.

Attachment section rope mouth

The section of fortification in the triangle where the Seille flows into the Moselle leads to a series of towers maintained by the various guilds of the city of Metz, such as the tailor's tower (Tour des Tailleurs), the bricklayer's tower (Tour des Massons), the coppersmith's tower ( Tour des Chauldronniers) and the stable master tower (Tour des Maréchaux). The Devil's Tower rises at the confluence of the Seille in the right arm of the Moselle. It is also called the "Cursed Tower" (Tour Maudite) and was the responsibility of the guild of money changers . The tum is over 10 m thick and originally had three casemates, of which only the lower one with its three loopholes has been preserved since 1723.

Further city wall towers connect up the Moselle.

Different views of the German Gate

Fortification Bellecroix

Plan of fortress Saarlouis (1740), which starting in 1680 on the orders of Louis XIV. For the protection of Metz, the capital of the newly created Province de la Sarre was created
Metz, Fort de Bellecroix, Saarlouiser Tor / Porte de Sarrelouis

The passage outside the city of the German Gate leads to the Bellecroix hill. The hill was integrated into the defense system of the city of Metz under the fortress builder Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban in the 17th century. Until then, there had been a pilgrimage site (Chapelle de la Belle Croix) there, which had been laid out in the 10th century. Vauban's successor, Louis de Cormontaigne , built the "Fort de Bellecroix" and the "Fort Moselle" from 1734 to 1740. The "Fort de Bellecroix" served to defend Metz in the north and east and secured the section on the lower Seille. The "Fort Moselle", on the other hand, was supposed to secure the banks of the Moselle in the northeast of the city. The Metzer fortress area on the Bellecroix hill under Cormontaigne has ditches of 3000 m in length and underground passages of 4600 m in length. The Bellecroix fortress consists of four bastions , three curtains and three demi-lunas (crescent-shaped outer works). The Saarlouiser Tor (Porte des Sarrelouis), built at the time, connects the German Gate in Metz with the Saarlouis fortress, which was newly built under Louis XIV . The Saarlouiser Tor is architecturally structured by Tuscan double pilasters , bosses and an antique triangular gable . Under Emperor Napoleon III. the systems on the Bellecroix hill were reinforced again. When two mighty belts of fortifications were built around the city ( fortress Metz ) after 1870 , the earlier fortifications lost their importance. The Bellecroix buildings were used as barracks until World War II and were finally abandoned in 1954. The fortifications have been restored and can currently be viewed from the outside. The entire old town of Metz can be seen from a vantage point.

Historical events

In 1473, Emperor Friedrich III moved. solemnly entered the city through the gate. The city magistrate of Metz presented him with a gold cup, which was filled with Metz gold coins instead of an alcoholic welcome drink.

On September 21, 1940, Gauleiter Josef Bürckel, accompanied by Mayor Richard Imbt, entered the conquered city of Metz with great pomp through the German Gate. A banner stretched across the street bore the inscription "Metz greets his Gauleiter". The former mayor of Metz, Roger Joseph Foret (term of office: 1911–1918), ceremoniously handed Bürckel the keys to the city on a velvet pillow. Several thousand people waved swastika flags, showed the Hitler salute and threw flowers on the path the Gauleiter was walking along .

On October 5, 1941, the Reich Minister for Public Enlightenment and Propaganda , Joseph Goebbels , was led through the German Gate into the city by district leader Hieronymus Merkle, also with a large propaganda contingent.

See also

literature

(in alphabetic order)

  • René Bour: Histoire de Metz, Metz 1997.
  • Dieter Heckmann: The Teutonic Order Metz (1210 / before 1241–1552) between Germania and Romania, in: Recognizing boundaries, overcoming boundaries, ed. by Wolfgang Haubrichs , Kurt-Ulrich Jäschke and Michael Oberweis, Festschrift for Reinhard Schneider on the completion of his 65th year of life, Sigmaringen 1999, pp. 237–248.
  • Dieter Heckmann: Quelques aspects de comparaison entre les commanderies de l'ordre teutonique à Metz et Liège au moyen-age, in: Mendicants, Military Orders and Regionalism in Medieval Europe, ed. by Jürgen Sarnowsky, Aldershot 1999, pp. 59-68.
  • Dieter Heckmann: The land register of the German Order Coming Metz from 1404 (-1406), in: Rheinische Vierteljahresblätter 64 (2000), pp. 168-207.
  • Eduard-Hermann Heppe: Das Deutsche Thor in Metz, in: Die Denkmalpflege, 4th year, No. 7 (May 28, 1902), pp. 49–53.
  • Philippe Hubert and Christian Legay: Metz - ville d'architectures, Metz 2004.
  • François-Yves Le Moigne: Histoire de Metz, Univers de la France et des pays francophones, Toulouse 1986.
  • Horst Rohde and Armin Karl Geiger: Military history travel guide Metz, Hamburg 1995.
  • Jean Thiriot: Portes, tours et murailles de la cité de Metz - une évocation de l'enceinte urbaine aux XVIe et XVIIe siècles, Metz 1971.
  • Claude Turel: Metz - deux mille ans d'architecture militaire, Metz 1986.

Individual evidence

  1. Jean Thiriot: Portes, tours et la cité de murailles de Metz, Metz 1971, p 45f.
  2. Pierre-Édouard Wagner: The Middle Ages Metz, Eine Patrician Republic, German translation by Margarete Ruck-Vinson (Èditions du patrimoine, Center des monuments nationaux), Paris 2014, p. 39.
  3. Niels Wilcken: Vom Drachen Graully to the Center Pompidou-Metz, Metz, a cultural guide, Merzig 2011, pp. 139–145.
  4. Julien Trapp: Metz, The medieval city wall, information publication ed. by the city of Metz (Service Patrimoine Culturel / Municipal Agency for Cultural Heritage), n.d. and n.d.
  5. Niels Wilcken: Vom Drachen Graully to the Center Pompidou-Metz, Metz, a culture guide, Merzig 2011, p. 141.
  6. ^ Niels Wilcken: Architektur im Grenzraum, The public building industry in Alsace-Lorraine 1871-1918 (publications by the Institute for Regional Studies in Saarland, Volume 38), Saarbrücken, 2000, pp. 366-367.
  7. Julien Trapp: Metz, The medieval city wall, information publication ed. by the city of Metz (Service Patrimoine Culturel / Municipal Agency for Cultural Heritage), n.d. and n.d.
  8. Christian Fauvel: Metz 1940–1950, De la tourmente au renouveau, Metz 2017, p. 152.
  9. Pierre-Édouard Wagner: The medieval Metz, Eine Patrizier Republik, German translation by Margarete Ruck-Vinson (Èditions du patrimoine, Center des monuments nationaux), Paris 2014, p. 46.
  10. ^ Niels Wilcken: Vom Drachen Graully to the Center Pompidou-Metz, Metz, a cultural guide, Merzig 2011, pp. 135-139, 145.
  11. Julien Trapp: Metz, The medieval city wall, information publication ed. by the city of Metz (Service Patrimoine Culturel / Municipal Agency for Cultural Heritage), n.d. and n.d.
  12. Pierre-Édouard Wagner: The medieval Metz, Eine Patrizier Republik, German translation by Margarete Ruck-Vinson (Èditions du patrimoine, Center des monuments nationaux), Paris 2014, pp. 45–46.
  13. Julien Trapp: Metz, The medieval city wall, information publication ed. by the city of Metz (Service Patrimoine Culturel / Municipal Agency for Cultural Heritage), n.d. and n.d.
  14. Pierre-Édouard Wagner: The medieval Metz, Eine Patrizier Republik, German translation by Margarete Ruck-Vinson (Èditions du patrimoine, Center des monuments nationaux), Paris 2014, pp. 43–45.
  15. ^ Westphal, above given names: History of the city of Metz, German bookshop (G. Lang), Part I, Until 1552, Metz 1875, p. 119.
  16. Pierre-Édouard Wagner: The medieval Metz, Eine Patrizier Republik, German translation by Margarete Ruck-Vinson (Èditions du patrimoine, Center des monuments nationaux), Paris 2014, p. 11.
  17. Julien Trapp: Metz, The medieval city wall, information publication ed. by the city of Metz (Service Patrimoine Culturel / Municipal Agency for Cultural Heritage), n.d. and n.d.
  18. Pierre-Édouard Wagner: The medieval Metz, Eine Patrizier Republik, German translation by Margarete Ruck-Vinson (Èditions du patrimoine, Center des monuments nationaux), Paris 2014, p. 42.
  19. Pierre-Édouard Wagner: The medieval Metz, Eine Patrizier Republik, German translation by Margarete Ruck-Vinson (Èditions du patrimoine, Center des monuments nationaux), Paris 2014, p. 42.
  20. Julien Trapp: Metz, The medieval city wall, information publication ed. by the city of Metz (Service Patrimoine Culturel / Municipal Agency for Cultural Heritage), n.d. and n.d.
  21. Pierre-Édouard Wagner: The medieval Metz, Eine Patrizier Republik, German translation by Margarete Ruck-Vinson (Èditions du patrimoine, Center des monuments nationaux), Paris 2014, p. 46.
  22. Niels Wilcken: Vom Drachen Graully to the Center Pompidou-Metz, Metz, a cultural guide, Merzig 2011, p. 144.
  23. Aurélien Davrius: Metz in the 17th and 18th Centuries, Towards the Enlightenment Urban Development, German translation by Margarete Ruck-Vinson (Èditions du patrimoine, Center des monuments nationaux), Paris 2014, p. 63.
  24. Nadine Martzloff: Vie quotidienne au Moyen Age d'apres Philippe de Vigneulles, chronique messin, Collection la Moselle l'essentiel, Metz 1996, p. 34.
  25. Niels Wilcken: From the dragon Graully to the Center Pompidou-Metz, Metz, a cultural guide, Merzig 2011, p. 142.
  26. Christian Fauvel: Metz 1940–1950, De la tourmente au renouveau, Metz 2017, pp. 35–37.
  27. ^ François Roth: La porte des Allemands, sentinelle sur la Seille, in: Vieilles maisons françaises, No. 265, January 2016, p. 37.
  28. Christian Fauvel: Metz 1940–1950, De la tourmente au renouveau, Metz 2017, p. 82.

Web links

Commons : Deutsches Tor (Metz)  - Collection of images

Coordinates: 49 ° 7 ′ 4 ″  N , 6 ° 11 ′ 8 ″  E