Jules Jacot-Guillarmod

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Jules Jacot-Guillarmod (born December 24, 1868 in La Chaux-de-Fonds , † June 5, 1925 on a ship in the Gulf of Aden , Yemen ) was a Swiss doctor , alpinist , expedition mountaineer , author and photographer .

Jules Jacot Guillarmod on horseback in the Karakoram 1902

Life

Jules Jacot-Guillarmod grew up in La Chaux-de-Fonds and Saint-Blaise NE as the son of the animal painter Jules Guillarmod and Adèle Emma, ​​née Courvoiser. He studied medicine in Zurich and Lausanne . After graduating, he established himself as a family doctor in Corsier GE from 1998 to 1902 , in Lignières from 1904 to 1910 and then in St. Blaise until 1912. In 1907 he married Madeleine Bovet. From 1912 he ran a psychiatric clinic in the Castle of Prilly , which he was able to acquire in 1920 after the clinic was housed in Vennes from 1915 to 1920.

As often as his job allows, he hikes with his friends from the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) in the Alps and gives numerous lectures about his ascents and expeditions and regularly publishes articles on various topics in Swiss daily newspapers and magazines. He is a member of various clubs and societies. B. 1915–1917 President of the Diablerets Section of the SAC and 1917–1920 also President of the Association of Swiss Geographical Societies. He received various honors: Albert I of Monaco appointed him officer of the Order of Charles at the Alpinism Congress of 1920 and Fouad I of Egypt made him Grand Officer of the Order of the Nile at the International Geographical Congress in Cairo in 1925. As expedition doctor he took in 1902 at a by British Oscar corner stone led Karakorum expedition in part, together with Aleister Crowley , Guy Knowles and the Austrians Heinrich Pfannl and Viktor Wesseley . When attempting to climb K2 , he and Wesseley on the northeast ridge reached an altitude of approx. 6700 m, at this point a new world record in altitude.

First ascents

During an excursion with friends, Jacot-Guillardmod climbed his first mountain of 2169 meters in 1889. At the beginning of 1890, he bought his own pimple and hiked around Mont-Blanc . In 1893 he and one of his professors and students climb the Jungfrau , his first four-thousand-meter peak. In 1897 he and two companions set off from Martigny by bike to Chamonix and on July 14th he reached the summit for the first time and without a mountain guide. A few months later, on a further training course in Paris, he gave a lecture on this at the Club Alpin Français (CAF), which then accepted him as a member. His contacts with other members lead to the first attempt to organize a Himalayan expedition, which is given up due to a lack of the necessary funds.

Himalayan expeditions

K2 expedition 1902: (from left) Wessely, Eckenstein, Jacot-Guillarmod, Crowley, Pfannl, Knowles

In 1902 Jacot-Guillarmod took part as a doctor in an expedition to K2 in the Karakoram organized by the Englishman Oscar Eckenstein, the aim of which was to attempt an ascent. The other participants are two other Englishmen, including Aleister Crowley , and two Austrians. After arriving in Bombay on March 21, 1902, the group crossed India to Askolay and, using the maps drawn up by William Martin Conway, ascended to Concordia Square on the Baltoro Glacier, accompanied by over 150 porters. From there it penetrates to the foot of the K2 , a previously unknown area. In the base camp at 5700 m, the group remained blocked for almost two months due to the weather. Jacot-Guillarmod made his first experiences there with mountain sickness: migraines, loss of appetite, nausea, etc. However, he did not succeed in recognizing the connection between the altitude and these symptoms. On July 10, 1902, he explored the northeast ridge of the K2 with one of the Austrians and reached an altitude of 6700 m. The weather is getting worse and worse and one of the climbers begins to suffer from pulmonary edema. The group then makes its way back, this time through the east of the continent. From this seven-month stay, Jacot-Guillarmod brought back around a thousand stereo photographs of these little or unknown areas.

Two years later, Jacot-Guillarmod organized an expedition himself, this time to the Nepalese and 8,585 m high Kangchenjunga near Everest. In addition to two Swiss, he also succeeds in winning Aleister Crowley, whom he has known at K2 since 1902. To put together the expedition in Darjeeling, they bring in an Italian hotelier with local language skills. From Darjeeling the group advances on the border between Sikkim and Nepal. After overcoming the Yalung Chu valley, the ascent takes place over a steep glacier. In an avalanche, Nepalese porters and a Swiss person lose their lives at an altitude of 6700 m. So the expedition breaks off brutally and the return through the mountains of Sikkim takes place without Crowley, who broke away after the accident.

Other expeditions

Together with the Neuchâtel ethnologist George Montandon, he took part in a mission of the International Red Cross ICRC in 1919 to care for prisoners of war deported to Siberia and to clarify their repatriation. He was awarded the Order of St. Charles by the Prince of Monaco .

He was a member of many alpine associations, including the Swiss Alpine Club , the Club Alpin Français , the Academic Alpine Club Zurich , the Groupe de Haute Montagne and President of the Swiss Society for Geography, gave countless lectures and fought against railway projects on the Jungfrau , Matterhorn and Diablerets . At the International Congress of Geographers in Cairo , King Fuad I of Egypt appointed him Grand Officer de l'Ordre du Nil. In 1925 he set out alone to cross Africa from north to south, but had to abandon this project due to illness at Lake Victoria . He died on a French mail ship in the Gulf of Aden on June 5, 1925 and was buried in the port city of Aden.

Photographic estate

Around 1,600 stereo glass plates from the four research trips form the extraordinary cornerstone of the photo inventory. Jules Jacot-Guillarmod made countries and landscapes immortal; a series entitled “Europe” comprises almost 2,700 views: excursions to the mountains (France and Switzerland), military scenes, trips to Switzerland and views of the canton of Neuchâtel as well as photos of the family. 100 glass plates relate to his honeymoon, which he undertook to Constantinople in 1907. The inventory also includes 120 autochrome plates with Swiss subjects. All of these plates are currently being digitized. His personal diaries (approx. 6,000 pages), which are kept in the library of the city of La Chaux-de-Fonds, are a great help here.

Works

  • Journal du 1 er janvier 1886 au 27 may 1925, 74 carnets; Jacot-Guillarmod Fund, Bibliothèque de la ville de La Chaux-de-Fonds .
  • Nouvel an à la cabane Fridolin, L'Écho des Alpes , 1895, p. 117-131
  • Au Mont-Blanc, L'Écho des Alpes , 1897, p. 249-268
  • Autour de Chanrion, Patrie suisse , n ° 4, 1897, p. 279-281
  • La pellotine chez les aliénés , Thèse de doctorat de Jules Jacot-Guillarmod, Lausanne, 1897
  • Album des cabanes du Club Alpin Suisse , Berne, Schmidt & Francke, 1898
  • Dans les Alpes de la Suisse primitive, L'Écho des Alpes , 1896, p. 211-217 and 335-345
  • Dans l'Himalaya, Suisse libérale , 1902, numéros 107 (May 9), 108 (May 10), 121 (May 26), 122 (May 27), 158 (July 8), 159 (June 9), 166 (May 17) juillet), 167 (18 juillet), 184 (7 août), 209 (5 septembre), 210 (6 septembre), 219 (17 septembre), 220 (18 septembre)
  • Un record dans l'Himalaya, Yearbook of the Swiss Alpine Club , n ° 38, 1902–1903, p. 212-227
  • Six mois dans l'Himalaya, le Karakorum et l'Hindu-Kush: voyages et explorations aux plus hautes montagnes du monde , Neuchâtel, W. Sandoz, 1904
  • Vers le Kangchinjunga (8585 m), Himalaya népalais, Yearbook of the Swiss Alpine Club , n ° 41, 1905–1906, p. 190-205
  • Au Mönch (4105 m) par l'arrête nord-ouest, Yearbook of the Swiss Alpine Club , n ° 43, 1907–1908, p. 364-371
  • Crampons et piolets, Yearbook of the Swiss Alpine Club , n ° 45, 1909–1910, p. 344-353
  • Au Kangchinjunga: voyages et explorations dans l'Himalaya du Sikhim et du Népal, L'Écho des Alpes , 1914, p. 389-406
  • À l'assaut des plus hauts sommets du monde, L'Écho des Alpes , 1921, p. 337-350
  • Les grottes des Dentaux, Bulletin de la Société vaudoise des sciences naturelles , n ° 203, 1921, p. 193-204
  • Les résultats de l'expédition de l'Everest en 1921, L'Écho des Alpes , 1922, p. 117-120
  • Esquisses topographiques du Chogori ou K2 et du Kangchinjunga (Himalaya), Bulletin de la Société neuchâteloise de Géographie , vol. XXXIV, Neuchâtel, 1925, p. 34-37.

literature

  • Aymon Baud, La haute Asie telle qu'ils l'ont vue. Explorateurs et scientifiques de 1820 à 1940 , 2003.
  • Charlie Buffet, La folie du K2 , 2004.
  • Charlie Buffet, Jules Jacot Guillarmond, Pioneer at K2: Explorer and Photographer in the Himalayas, 1902-1905 , Zurich 2012. ISBN 978-3-906055-02-2
  • Marcel Kurz, foreign mountains, distant goals. The work of Swiss researchers and mountaineers abroad , 1948.
  • Louis Seylaz, Jules Jacot Guillarmod, in: Les alpinistes célèbres , Henri de Segogne and Jean Couzy, 1956, pp. 123-135.
  • Georges Terrier, Jules Jacot Guillarmod, médecin, alpiniste et grand voyageur (1868–1925), in: Biographies neuchâteloises tome 4 (1900–1950), Michel Schlup, 2005, pp. 149–153.
  • Steve Swenson, Mountain Profile: K2, the Mountaineers' Mountain, Alpinist , 37, 2011-2012, pp. 42-46.

Web links

Commons : Jules Jacot-Guillarmod  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ a b Charlie Buffet: Jules Jacot Guillarmod. Pioneer at K2. Explorer and photographer in the Himalayas 1902–1905. AS Verlag , Zurich 2012.
  2. ↑ Urban Schertenleib: Jules Jacot-Guillarmod. In: Historical Lexicon of Switzerland . February 7, 2007 , accessed June 7, 2019 .
personal data
SURNAME Jacot-Guillarmod, Jules
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Swiss doctor, alpinist, expedition mountaineer, author and photographer
DATE OF BIRTH December 24, 1868
PLACE OF BIRTH La Chaux-de-Fonds
DATE OF DEATH June 5, 1925
Place of death Gulf of Aden , Yemen