Puncak Trikora

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Puncak Trikora
Puncak Trikora from the north; Summit (middle left) and west ridge (right).

Puncak Trikora from the north; Summit (middle left) and west ridge (right).

height 4730  m
location Papua Province , Indonesia
Mountains Maoke Mountains
Dominance 167.3 km
Notch height 1268 m
Coordinates 4 ° 15 '44 "  S , 138 ° 40' 54"  E Coordinates: 4 ° 15 '44 "  S , 138 ° 40' 54"  E
Puncak Trikora (Moluccan Papua)
Puncak Trikora
First ascent February 21, 1913 by a Dutch expedition
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The Puncak Trikora , formerly Wilhelmina summit , is a mountain in the Indonesian western part of the island of New Guinea ( Papua province ), it is located in the Jayawijaya chain in the central Maoke Mountains . According to current knowledge, 4730  m are given for the summit height , and 4750  m and 4711  m are or were height specifications used.

In the past, some sources have listed the Puncak Trikora as the second highest mountain on the island of New Guinea after the Carstensz pyramid with 4884  m . He was therefore considered in mountaineering as one of five candidates for the status of the Second Summit on the continent of Oceania . Today the Puncak Trikora is considered the fourth highest mountain on the continent. (see section geography)

Surname

The mountain was named Puncak Trikora after the Indonesian occupation of New Guinea in 1963 (Operation Trikora ). The name refers to Sukarnos (1901-1970) nationalist Trikora speech on December 19, 1961 in Yogyakarta . At this mass event, the dictatorial ruling President of Indonesia called for the "liberation" of West Papua . The term Trikora is an abbreviation for Tri Komando Rakyat (German roughly: "triple command to the people"). The three orders were: 1. to prevent the emergence of an independent state in West Papua , 2. to raise the Indonesian flag in West Papua and 3. to be ready for military mobilization. (see: Papua conflict )

In addition to Puncak Trikora (German: Trikora summit ), Osua Trikora , Gunung Trikora (German: Berg Trikora ) and the English Mount Trikora are common names. During the Dutch colonial era, the mountain was given the name Wilhelminatop (German: Wilhelmina summit ) around 1905 . The English name Mount Wilhelmina was also used. This name referred to the Dutch Queen Wilhelmina (1880–1962).

The local name of the mountain for the Dani tribe is Ettiakup .

geography

location

The limestone massif of the Puncak Trikora forms the highest point in the central section of the Maoke Mountains . The Jayawijaya main chain stretches in central western New Guinea from northwest to southeast; the lower mountains to the north and south are partly overgrown with dense tropical rainforests. About 30 kilometers northeast of the mountain is the Baliem high valley with the city of Wamena , the local infrastructure center with its own regional airport (IATA code: WMX). The Puncak Trikora is now accessible from the north via a trekking route and is thus one of the few relatively easily accessible mountains in New Guinea.

glacier

The summit area and the southern flanks of the Puncak Trikora were still heavily glaciated at the time of the first ascent in 1913. In the first half of the 20th century, a clear decline in all glaciers in the high mountains of New Guinea was documented. This process was described for the first time on the Trikora massif by the Dutch geologist Paul François Hubrecht, who climbed the summit in 1913 and again in 1922 and noticed a sharp decline in glaciation. By 1963, global warming had completely melted the glacier on the summit of Puncak Trikora.

height

The summit height of the Puncak Trikora decreased from the discovery of the mountain to the middle of the 20th century due to the melting of the ice cover; according to today's knowledge it is 4730  m . The altitude of 4750  m comes from the oldest surveys in the region around 1915. In 2000, radar measurements ( Shuttle Radar Topography Mission , SRTM) by the US space agency NASA gave an approximate value of 4711 m for the Trikora main summit.

In mountaineering , at the beginning of the 21st century, the height comparison between the Puncak Trikora and the Puncak Mandala became more important. The Puncak Mandala ( 4760  m ) is located in the inaccessible eastern section of the Maoke Mountains and has only been little explored. Both mountains were considered candidates for the status of the second highest mountain in Oceania (see Seven Second Summits ). Various evaluations, including by NASA, showed that the Puncak Trikora is about 30 meters lower than the Puncak Mandala.

Today the Puncak Trikora is considered the fourth highest mountain in Oceania after the Carstensz pyramid ( 4884  m ), the Sumantri ( 4870  m ) and the Puncak Mandala ( 4760  m ) .

history

The participants of the first South New Guinea expedition in 1907.

The exploration of the region of today's Puncak Trikora began in 1907 with the first Dutch South New Guinea Expedition (Dutch: Eerste Zuid Nieuw-Guinea Expeditie ), led by the diplomat and explorer Hendrikus Albertus Lorentz (1871-1944). The second South New Guinea expedition ( Tweede Zuid Nieuw-Guinea Expeditie ) from 1909 to 1910 was under his leadership. Both Lorentz expeditions advanced from the south coast of New Guinea into the inaccessible regions at the foot of the Puncak Trikora. During the second expedition on November 8, 1909, Lorentz, Jan Willem van Nouhuys (1869–1963) and five Dayaks were able to reach the beginnings of the large snowfields on the southern slopes of the Wilhelminatop at an altitude of about 4460 m . An attempt to advance even higher failed, three of the Dayak men died of cold and exhaustion during the descent and bivouac, Lorentz had broken ribs in a fall.

It was not until the Third South New Guinea Expedition ( Derde Zuid Nieuw-Guinea Expeditie ) that the Wilhelmina summit could be climbed , along with other research . This expedition lasted from September 1912 to April 1913. It was led by Alphons Franssen Herderschee (1872-1932), an officer of the Koninklijk Nederlandsch-Indisch Leger , and was supposed to examine the soil , flora and fauna above 2300  m . Other expedition participants were the zoologist Gerard Martinus Versteeg (1876-1943), the botanist August Adriaan Pulle (1878-1955), the geologist Paul François Hubrecht (1880-1929) and JB Sitanala, an Indonesian general practitioner . Herderschee also took on the role of ethnographer . As in the two previous expeditions, this expedition was also accompanied by soldiers, porters (prisoners) and Dayak from the island of Borneo, who provided important help because of their experience of living in the jungle (experts for boat trips and much more). The entourage comprised a total of 241 participants. These were divided up several times in order to be able to cope with different tasks in a time-saving manner. One group reached the summit of Puncak Trikora on February 21, 1913. Participants in this group were Herderschee, Hubrecht and Versteeg.

In the years 1920–1922 the Central New Guinea Expedition (Centraal Nieuw-Guinea Expeditie) under the direction of the Dutch General AJA van Overeem tried to reach the mountain from the north coast. It was possible to penetrate far into the highlands along the Idenburg River, but the Wilhelminatop was not reached.

With a subsequent expedition led by JHG Kremer, on December 4, 1921, the mountain could be climbed for the first time from the Baliem high valley to the north. On this second ascent, the geologist Paul François Hubrecht was at the summit again. For the nine years since the first ascent, Hubrecht has already documented a sharp decline in glaciers.

Alpinism

The development of the Baliem high valley made access to the mountain much easier; today you can reach the foot of Puncak Trikora from Lake Habbema (3300 m) on a trekking route. The normal route leads first over the north flank to the west ridge and then in an easterly direction to the summit. On the ridge, a number of steep pre-summits must first be climbed or bypassed. In the further course, the ascent takes place over the scree fields, on which the glacier stretched a few decades ago, to the main summit far to the east. The metal plaque of an Indonesian expedition has served as the summit marker since 1983 (inscription: "[...] Puncak Trikora Desember 1983 Ekspedisi Maoke" ). After the Carstentz pyramid, the Puncak Trikora is the most frequently climbed among the highest mountains in New Guinea and is also offered as a guided tour.

Apart from the route of the first ascent (southern flank) and today's normal route (north face / west ridge), for which there are a number of variants, no other routes are documented.

See also

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Bilveer Singh (2001): West Irian and the Suharto Presidency: a perspective , p. 86, download as PDF, accessed on May 8, 2015.
  2. ↑ Pim Schoorl: besturen in Nederlands-Nieuw-Guinea, 1945-1962 , Koninklijk Instituut voor Taal-, Land- en folklore (ed.), 1996, ISBN 90-6718-093-9 ECR 595.
  3. ↑ Archived copy ( Memento from March 4, 2016 in the Internet Archive )
  4. ↑ a b c d Ricky Munday: Puncak Trikora, 4730 m - summitpost.com (2012) , accessed on May 8, 2015
  5. ↑ a b gunungbagging.com: Puncak Trikora , accessed May 8, 2015
  6. ^ Andrew G. Klein, Joni L. Kincaid: Correspondence. On the disappearance of the Puncak Mandala ice cap, Papua . In: Journal of Glaciology . Vol. 54, No. 184 , 2008, p. 195 .
  7. ↑ The altitude of 4730  m comes from the middle of the 20th century and can be found in various topographical maps, including the US military maps (e.g. Series T401, US Army Map Service, Sheet SB54-1) and the Soviet ones General Staff Maps .
  8. ^ Ministry of Defense, UK (Ed.): Aeronautical Chart - Indonesia Sheet TPC-M13D , Ordnance Survey UK, 1971 ("OSUA TRIKORA 15518", corresponds to 4729.89 m).
  9. ↑ Joachim Hoelzgen: The last South Sea glaciers are melting away. In: Spiegel Online . August 19, 2010, accessed April 20, 2015 .
  10. ↑ Eberhard Jurgalski (2012): Kammerlander / Stangl: "Seven Second" and "Third" Facts , accessed on March 20, 2015
  11. ↑ Hans Kammerlander : Second Seven Summits ( Memento from December 25, 2012 in the Internet Archive ), archived from the original on chamberlander.com ( Memento from December 25, 2012 in the Internet Archive ) on December 25, 2012
  12. ↑ Christian Stangl : Puncak Trikora, 4730 m ( memento of April 7, 2012 in the Internet Archive ), accessed on May 8, 2015
  13. ↑ G. Kolff & Co (ed.): Map of the Dutch colony of New Guinea (1915) , Batavia / Jakarta, Dutch East India, December 1915; accessed on May 8, 2015
  14. ^ Hermann Haack (Ed.): Stielers Hand-Atlas , 10th edition, Gotha: Perthes Verlag , 1927, pp. 90f.
  15. ↑ Andreas Lesti: Kammerlander's "Seven Second Summits" on Spiegel Online accessed May 8, 2015
  16. ↑ The SRTM data evaluation at NASA (Tom Farr, "Earth and Space Sciences Division") showed a difference in altitude of 26 m (Puncak Mandala: 4737 m, Puncak Trikora: 4711 m, approximate values). Source: A. Lesti (2012): Kammerlanders "Seven Second Summits" , retrieved from Spiegel-Online on May 8, 2015.
  17. ↑ The alpine chronicler Eberhard Jurgalski gives the difference in altitude as 30 meters (Puncak Mandala 4760m, Puncak Trikora 4730 m). He also refers to the findings of the Ultras Project of 2005, in which the Puncak Mandala with 4760 m and 2760 m of topographical prominence was recorded as an "ultra-prominent mountain" . Sources: Indonesia Mountains Ultra-Prominence - peaklist.org (2005) ; Eberhard Jurgalski: Kammerlander / Stangl: "Seven Second" and "Third" Facts (2012) , accessed on May 8, 2015.
  18. ↑ The mountaineer Christian Stangl confirmed the difference in altitude in 2012 after climbing both mountains, he had used GPS or DGPS technology to measure and came to a value of 24 meters (Puncak Mandala: 4,769m, Puncak Trikora: 4,745m), source: Puncak Mandala ( April 14, 2015 memento in the Internet Archive ), accessed May 8, 2015.
  19. ↑ The map service Google Maps shows the Puncak Trikora about 40 meters lower than the Puncak Mandala on the topographic maps of the region. Google Maps topographic representation: Puncak Trikora and Puncak Mandala , accessed May 8, 2015.
  20. ^ Tweede Zuid Nieuw-Guinea Expeditie 1909-1910. In: tropenmuseum.nl. Archived from the original on May 18, 2015 ; accessed on May 8, 2015 .
  21. ↑ a b c west-papua.nl: Expeditions and Research Trips , West Papua , accessed on May 8, 2015.
  22. ^ The third South New Guinea Expedition (1912-1913). Papua Insects Foundation, accessed May 3, 2011 .
  23. ↑ OCEANIA NEWSLETTER. No. 56, December 2009. ( PDF ; 277 kB) Retrieved on May 3, 2011 (English).
  24. ↑ Tropenmuseum reject dagboek Versteeg. Papua Heritage Foundation, accessed May 3, 2011 (Dutch).
  25. ↑ Indonesia Mountain Guides: Mount Trikora Expedition (climbing information and photos), accessed March 20, 2015
  26. ↑ Gil Bretschneider and Peer Schepanski (2002): Am Ziel: The ascent of the Puncak Trikora , ascent report in the Freie Presse , Chemnitz ( download as PDF ) and New Guinea 2002 - An expedition into the past , report with photos , accessed May 8, 2015
  27. ↑ Christian Stangl (2010): Puncak Trikora ( memento from April 7, 2012 in the Internet Archive ), ascent report with photos, accessed May 8, 2015
  28. ↑ American Alpine Journal (1989): Oceania, Irian Jaya, Puncak Trikora, 1987 , In AAJ 1989, p. 181.
  29. ↑ American Alpine Journal (1995): Australasia, Irian Jaya, Trikora , In AAJ 1995, p. 328.