Serguey Samoilov
Serguey Samoilov (born January 4, 1958 , in the Kazakh SSR ; † May 26, 2009 at Lhotse , Nepal ), was a Kazakh mountaineer .
Life
Samoilov was a member of Almaty Mountain Rescue (051), had a higher education, was a candidate for a master's degree in sport and was awarded the Order of Snow Leopard . As a snow leopard , he defeated Pik Ismoil Somoni , Pik Korschenewskaja , Pik Lenin , Dschengisch Tschokusu and Khan Tengri in the course of his life. He also won the USSR and CIS mountaineering championships. The Kazakh military mountain sports group was significantly shaped by him. He was a mentor to its members, an active mountaineer and expedition leader himself. He was the head coach of the Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army , the Kazakh military mountain sports group. He was married with three children and lived in Almaty .
Eight-thousanders
In July 2005 Denis Urubko managed to climb Broad Peak in alpine style over a new difficult route through the southwest face. Urubko was on the summit for the second time. Mario Merelli , Domenico Belingheri , Stefano Magri , Marco Astori and Matteo Piantoni also took part in this Italian-Kazakh expedition , led by the Italian Roberto Piantoni , but they climbed Broad Peak using the normal route.
On April 25, 2006 the summit of Manaslu was reached via the normal route. This time the success was achieved together with Urubko in a two-man team. On May 8th of the same year, both stood on the summit again, this time via a new route in the northeast face.
It followed, again with Urubko, on May 1, 2007, the Dhaulagiri via the normal route and on October 2, 2007, the K2 via the Japanese route on the rarely used northwest ridge. For the first time, the summit of K2 had been reached at such a late point in the year.
In 2009 Samoilov tried his hand at traversing the Lhotse and Mount Everest together with Maksut Schumajew and Vasily Piwzow . However, the early monsoons thwarted the plans. Conditions were already bad on the Lhotse. A summit attempt had to be stopped by a snow storm at approx. 8000 m. In the descent to Camp 4, Samoilov remained a little behind. At about 7500 m, Shumayev and Piwzow lost it from view. Hours later he was found dead. There are contradicting information about the circumstances. On the one hand, he is said to have been found between camps 3 and 4, then lying next to a sleeping bag at 6,800 m. Presumably he was hit by an avalanche as he descended. He was temporarily buried next to Camp 2 at 6,400 m and is to be recovered after the end of the monsoon in autumn 2009.
Web links
| personal data | |
|---|---|
| SURNAME | Samoilov, Serguey |
| BRIEF DESCRIPTION | Kazakh climber |
| DATE OF BIRTH | 4th January 1958 |
| PLACE OF BIRTH | Kazakh SSR |
| DATE OF DEATH | May 26, 2009 |
| Place of death | Lhotse , Nepal |