Hungarian magnate costume

The Hungarian magnate costume was primarily a festive dress for the Hungarian nobility and the upscale and nationally conscious Hungarian bourgeoisie. The Hungarian name is Díszmagyar . This clothing was developed in the 19th century and was also known as the Hungarian gala costume .

Writer Maurus Jókai in the Hungarian magnate costume

history

As early as the 17th century there was a tendency in the former Kingdom of Hungary to wear distinctly Hungarian clothing or traditional costume. Clothes were created based on the patterns of the Turks, who had since been driven out of the country . But borrowings were also taken from folk costumes . But this clothing did not really become a success until the first half of the 19th century. In the time of reform , wearing typical Hungarian clothing was also intended to convey a political message to the world. With the end of the reform period, the foundations of a bourgeois Hungary were laid. During this time, efforts were also made to strengthen the Hungarian nation's sense of belonging with "artificially developed" clothing.

This clothing was presented to the public for the first time on November 14, 1814 in the Spanish Riding School in Vienna . Four women from society appeared for the first time in Hungarian magnate costume. Worn by Hungarian magnates , this clothing was also noticed at the coronation of Emperor Ferdinand the Benevolent (Hungarian V. Ferdinand) as King of Hungary on September 28, 1830 in St. Martin's Cathedral in Pressburg . Since then, pictures of these clothes have appeared regularly in various papers in fashion journals in Western countries. Even Emperors Franz Joseph I and Elisabeth , after the Austro-Hungarian Compromise, appeared on June 8, 1867 for the coronation as kings of Hungary in the Matthias Church at Ofen in Hungarian magnate costume.

Around the middle of the 19th century, this type of clothing developed into everyday clothing for the upper classes in Hungary. In later times, however, this clothing was only worn on special festive occasions (royal coronations, official holidays, audiences at court, etc.). Until the collapse of Austria-Hungary in 1918, these clothes were also regarded as the “gala clothes” of the Hungarian aristocracy . In the interwar period it was worn by conservative circles in Hungary, but its popularity fell rapidly. After 1945 there was no longer any place in “ people's democratic ” Hungary, which was ruled by the communists , it was frowned upon as clothing of the bourgeoisie and was completely out of fashion.

Magnate costume for men

The Hungarian magnate costume is first and foremost a festive clothing for men, as it is most likely to have retained its historical form, which dates back to the 16th century. The pants were originally developed from the Turkish " Pluder-Hose " (ung. Kaftán-nadrág). This includes the overskirt, a type of jacket often trimmed with fur (ung. Mente), which was usually only worn over one shoulder, connected with a decorative chain. Underneath they wore the so-called dolman , a tight-fitting jacket with a stand-up collar and set with strings. As headgear they wore a cap (ung. "Süveg"), with a plume was decorated. As accessories for costume included a tie , a belt , a sword with corresponding holder and up to his knees reaching boots. Orders and decorations and sometimes very expensive silver jewelry were worn for the gala costume . The Hungarian magnate costume was very expensive and only very wealthy people could afford such a costume.

Magnate costume for women

Hungarian magnate costume of Empress Elisabeth , which she wore on the occasion of her coronation as Queen of Hungary .

The magnate costume for women was much more variable than the very conservative forms for men. It was more adapted to current fashion. At the beginning of the 19th century, the forms were very much influenced by the Empire , followed by Biedermeier . By 1860, crinoline- like shapes became fashionable. Only the so-called “court gala” of the Hungarian magnate costume for women remained unchanged in its forms. It consisted of a dress from the Empire with a long train and a lady's apron (ung. Kötény). The so-called párta, a kind of wreath, was worn as headgear. In many cases the párta was replaced by a headscarf.

Picture gallery

Gyula Count Andrássy in Hungarian magnate costume
Archduchess Augusta in Hungarian magnate costume
Cabinet Gyula Gömbös in 1932 (Gömbös lower row in the middle)
Stephanie of Belgium
Coronation of Franz Joseph I and Elisabeth in the Matthias Church in oven
Count Sándor Teleki
Nicholas IV and Margit Esterházy
Empress Elisabeth of Austria-Hungary
Ida von Ferenczy
Emperor Ferdinand I on September 28, 1830 on the Coronation Hill in Pressburg. In the foreground, the Hungarian nobility in magnate costume.

literature

Magyar Néprajzi Lexicon. 5 volumes, Akadémiai Kiadó, Budapest 1977 to 1982, ISBN 963-05-1285-8 (Hungarian)

Web links

Brief history of the Hungarian magnate costume (Hungarian)

References and comments

↑ The Ottoman Empire occupied large parts of Hungary after the Battle of Mohács (August 29, 1526). It was not until the Battle of Zenta on September 11, 1697 that the Turks were finally driven out of Hungary.
↑ During the reform period, which took place in the first half of the 19th century, efforts were made to modernize the economically relatively backward Hungary. At the same time, this era was also referred to as the time of the "awakening" of the Hungarian nation.
↑ The mente is an overskirt made of wool or whale loden, which usually reaches to the knees. (Magyar Néprajzi Lexicon, Volume 3, p. 560; see literature)

↑ The dolman was originally a garment of the Hungarian hussars , it later became part of the Hungarian magnate costume. (Magyar Néprajzi Lexicon, Volume 1, p. 599; see literature)

↑ The Süveg is a headgear for men that was produced in various designs. Mostly it was a hat trimmed with fur and decorated with a plume. (Magyar Néprajzi Lexicon, Volume 4, p. 514; see literature)

↑ Originally, the aprons were used to protect the clothing underneath while working. In the course of time they became a garment of the Hungarian peasant costume, from where they found their way into the Hungarian gala costume. In most cases, the pieces were very elaborately crafted and embroidered by hand. (Magyar Néprajzi Lexicon, Volume 3, p. 312f .; see literature)

↑ The párta was a kind of maiden wreath, or silk wreath, which as a rule only girls and unmarried women were allowed to wear. This headdress was permitted at court because the ladies-in- waiting had to be unmarried. (Magyar Néprajzi Lexikon, Volume 4, pp. 198f .; see literature)

[1] The Ottoman Empire occupied large parts of Hungary after the Battle of Mohács (August 29, 1526). It was not until the Battle of Zenta on September 11, 1697 that the Turks were finally driven out of Hungary.

[2] During the reform period, which took place in the first half of the 19th century, efforts were made to modernize the economically relatively backward Hungary. At the same time, this era was also referred to as the time of the "awakening" of the Hungarian nation.

[3] The mente is an overskirt made of wool or whale loden, which usually reaches to the knees. (Magyar Néprajzi Lexicon, Volume 3, p. 560; see literature)

[4] The dolman was originally a garment of the Hungarian hussars , it later became part of the Hungarian magnate costume. (Magyar Néprajzi Lexicon, Volume 1, p. 599; see literature)

[5] The Süveg is a headgear for men that was produced in various designs. Mostly it was a hat trimmed with fur and decorated with a plume. (Magyar Néprajzi Lexicon, Volume 4, p. 514; see literature)

[6] Originally, the aprons were used to protect the clothing underneath while working. In the course of time they became a garment of the Hungarian peasant costume, from where they found their way into the Hungarian gala costume. In most cases, the pieces were very elaborately crafted and embroidered by hand. (Magyar Néprajzi Lexicon, Volume 3, p. 312f .; see literature)

[7] The párta was a kind of maiden wreath, or silk wreath, which as a rule only girls and unmarried women were allowed to wear. This headdress was permitted at court because the ladies-in- waiting had to be unmarried. (Magyar Néprajzi Lexikon, Volume 4, pp. 198f .; see literature)