Simony tips

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Simony tips
Simony peaks from the southeast (Muhsweg), left the two Gubach peaks.

Simony peaks from the southeast (Muhsweg), left the two Gubach peaks.

height 3473  m above sea level A.
location Salzburg and Tyrol , Austria
Mountains Venediger group
Dominance 1.6 km →  Dreiherrnspitze
Notch height 102 m ↓  Umbalscharte
Coordinates 47 ° 4 '21 "  N , 12 ° 15' 36"  E Coordinates: 47 ° 4 '21 "  N , 12 ° 15' 36"  E
Simony peaks (Alps)
Simony tips
First ascent July 28, 1871 by Theodor Harpprecht with leader Josef Schnell

The Simonyspitzen are two mountain peaks in the Venediger Group in the Austrian Central Alps. They are located in the Hohe Tauern National Park on the border between the Austrian federal states of East Tyrol and Salzburg . They were given their name at the meeting of the Austrian Alpine Club on March 15, 1865 at the request of the cartographer Franz Keil . He wanted to honor the geographer and alpine researcher Friedrich Simony . The peaks were first climbed on July 28, 1871 by the Stuttgart alpinist Theodor Harpprecht and the mountain guide Josef Schnell.

Position and height

According to the official survey of the Federal Office for Metrology and Surveying , the western Simonyspitze ( 47 ° 4 '  N , 12 ° 16'  E ) is 3473  m above sea level. A. the higher of the two peaks, the northeast Simonyspitze ( 47 ° 5 ′  N , 12 ° 16 ′  E ) reaches 3442  m . According to other information, both peaks are 3488  m high.

In the north, the mountains on the Salzburg side descend towards the Krimmler Kees above the Krimmler Achental , to the south (East Tyrol) the Simonykees flows above the Maurertal .

To the west, the ridge continues to the 3426  m high Umbalköpfl and the 3499  m high Dreiherrenspitze . Immediately in front of the western Simonyspitze is the 3440  m high Simonyschneide ( 47 ° 4 '  N , 12 ° 16'  E ). It is also often incorrectly called the Western Simony Peak. The 3415  m high ridge between the two Simony peaks is also referred to in some sources as "Simonyschneid" or "Simonyschneide".

To the northeast, the ridge continues to the 3225  m high Vorderen Maurerkeeskopf .

Alpinism

The firn-covered eastern Simonyspitze is considered to be of alpine importance, but is not climbed very often. The normal route over the southeast ridge has difficulty II (UIAA) . The starting point of the ascent, which takes around 4 hours, is the Essener-Rostocker-Hütte ( 2208  m ) in the Maurertal valley. Further routes lead over the southern flank (II), the eastern flank (III-), the northeast ridge (III) and the western hanging glacier (III +). The north face (IV) is considered the most difficult ascent; like the western hanging glacier, it can be reached from the Warnsdorfer hut ( 2336  m ) in the Krimmler Achental. The summit is climbed as a ski tour over the Simonykees in winter .

The western Simonyspitze is rarely visited, many alpinists only climb up to the Simonyschneide in front of it. The normal route leads from the southwest with difficulty II to the summit. The north-west ridge , an ice tour from the Krimmler Kees, the north face (combined terrain V-, 50 °) and the ice rise through the north face, at 65 °, are one of the steepest ice tours in the Venediger group. Other pure glacier climbs such as the southern flank or the northwestern hanging glacier are considered dangerous and often completely inaccessible. In winter, the Simonyschneide to the southwest is a popular ski touring destination.

The transition between the western and eastern Simonyspitze over a ridge that is often overgrown and the Harpprecht Tower has a degree of difficulty III.

Name and history of ascent

The name of the mountains was coined in 1865 by the cartographer and geoplastic artist Franz Keil , who named them after the geographer and alpine researcher Friedrich Simony . Previously, the eastern Simonyspitze was often incorrectly referred to as the great violinist . Today, in addition to the commonly used female, the male form western or eastern Simonyspitz can be found.

The first ascent of both summit succeeded on July 28, 1871 Theodor Harpprecht with Josef Schnell. They ascended via today's normal route to the eastern Simonyspitze, crossed the connecting ridge and descended from the western Simonyspitze over the southern flank. On August 2nd of the same year they also succeeded in the first ascent of the Simonyschneide. With Ludwig Purtscheller and Johann Grill , who first climbed the southern flank (1881) and the northeast ridge (1882) of the eastern Simonyspitze, two other well-known alpinists contributed to the history of the development of the Simonyspitze.

literature

Web links

Commons : Simonyspitzen  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Eduard Richter : The development of the Eastern Alps , III. Tape. Berlin 1894, p. 149 f.
  2. ^ Austrian map 1: 50,000, AMAP Online. Federal Office for Metrology and Surveying ; Retrieved July 2, 2012
  3. ↑ a b c Alpine Club Card No. 36, Venediger Group, 2007
  4. ↑ a b c d Willi End: Alpine Club Leader Venediger Group . Ed .: German Alpine Association , Austrian Alpine Association , Alpine Association South Tyrol . 5th edition. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2006, ISBN 3-7633-1242-0 , p. 371-377 .
  5. ^ Willi End, Hubert Peterka: Alpine Club Leader Venediger Group . Ed .: German Alpine Association , Austrian Alpine Association , Alpine Association South Tyrol . 4th edition. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 1994, ISBN 3-7633-1242-0 , p. 384, 389 .
  6. ↑ Mittheilungen des Alpenverein , Munich 1882, p. 188