Dreiherrnspitze

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Dreiherrnspitze
Dreiherrnspitze from the northwest

Dreiherrnspitze from the northwest

height 3499  m above sea level A.
location Salzburg and Tyrol , Austria and South Tyrol , Italy
Mountains Venediger group
Dominance 9 km →  Großvenediger
Notch height 581 m ↓  Obersulzbachtörl
Coordinates 47 ° 4 '9 "  N , 12 ° 14' 27"  E Coordinates: 47 ° 4 '9 "  N , 12 ° 14' 27"  E
Dreiherrnspitze (Alps)
Dreiherrnspitze
rock North-east wall: central gneiss of the Tauern window with feldspar , southwest flank: slate with garnet and hornblende
First ascent November 2, 1866 by the mountain guide Balthasar Ploner with M. Dorer and I. Feldner
Normal way from South Tyrol via Lahnerkees or Althauskees, from East Tyrol via the Umbalkees
The Dreiherrnspitze, seen from the rear Umbaltal in East Tyrol.

The Dreiherrnspitze, seen from the rear Umbaltal in East Tyrol.

Template: Infobox Berg / Maintenance / BILD1

The Dreiherrnspitze (also Dreiherrnspitze ; Italian Picco dei Tre Signori ) is 3499  m above sea level. A. high mountain in the western Tauern main ridge . It is located in the Venediger Group , part of the Hohe Tauern , exactly on the state border between Austria and Italy that has existed since 1919 . The slopes on the East Tyrolean and Salzburg sides are part of the Hohe Tauern National Park , while the South Tyrolean parts of the mountain are protected in the Rieserferner-Ahrn Nature Park .

In the 16th century, the summit was also called Dreyerherrenspitz , and until 1873 also called Dreiländer , because at this point the territories of the Counts of Tyrol , the Counts of Görz and the Prince-Bishops of Salzburg came together. At the Dreiherrnspitze, the Rosshufkamm branches off to the southwest . It has an eastern main summit and a western summit with a height of 3418 meters. The border runs over both measurement points on the connecting ridge. To the northeast, the mountain has a partially icy, 450 meter high and over 60 ° inclined northeast face.

The first secured ascent of the Dreiherrnspitze was carried out on November 2, 1866 by the mountain guide Balthasar Ploner with Michael Dorer and Isidor Feldner. There is a normal route from the East Tyrolean as well as from the South Tyrolean side , but all climbs are quite long. The other routes over ridges and walls can only be conquered with alpine climbing .

location

The mountain is surrounded by glaciers all around . In the north, at the foot of the north-east face, the Krimmler Kees stretches out with its many crevices and which is strongly fissured by ice breaks . In the east and south lies the Umbalkees , which reaches an altitude of 3400 meters, and in the west, finally, the Lahner Kees, which towers up to the summit region . Neighboring mountains in the course of the pronounced east ridge are the 600 meters away Umbalköpfl with 3426  m height and another 1000 meters east the 3481  m high West Simonyspitze , which is named after the Austrian alpine researcher and geographer Friedrich Simony . In the course of the south-western Rosshuf ridge, about 2200 meters away, is the Hohe Rosshuf at 3199  m . In the further course of the Tauern main ridge , which adjoins it in a north-westerly direction, there is still the Grasleitenkopf ( 2954  m ). The next significant settlements are the village of Kasern in the southwestern South Tyrolean Ahrntal, nine kilometers as the crow flies . The Austrian Hinterbichl near Prägraten in Virgental is also 9 km away to the south-east .

Hydrology

In keeping with its name, the Dreiherrnspitze is not only a triangle of three countries , but also a watershed point . From here the water flows into three different river systems: to the north over the Salzach to the Inn , to the southeast over the Isel to the Drau and to the west over the Ahr and Rienz to the Etsch . Inn and Drau go with the Danube to the Black Sea , the Adige to the Mediterranean . The main Alpine ridge and the Danube-Etsch watershed run from Monte Forcola over the Reschenpass and the Brenner Pass to the Dreiherrnspitze, from there to Vienna the main Alpine ridge, which separates the northern and southern roofs of the Alps, drains to the Danube on both sides. This ridge runs along the Drau-Inn watershed to the Faulkogel . The Danube-Etsch watershed then runs south from the Dreiherrnspitze to the Drei Zinnen .

Ascent history

According to questionable information, the Dreiherrnspitze was climbed as early as 1861 as part of the national survey by the Berger brothers from Prägraten am Großvenediger . However , clear documents are available for an ascent on November 2, 1866 by the mountain guide Balthasar Ploner with Michael Dorer and Isidor Feldner. Their route led from the south-west over the only slightly inclined and therefore comparatively easy-to-walk south-west ridge, from which their route corresponded to today's normal route from East Tyrol.

Thomas Maischberger and Paul Gelmo first reached the summit over the exposed east ridge in August 1902. The north-west face was conquered for the first time on July 22, 1905 by K. Jaschke. Another important first ascent on the Dreiherrnspitze was the ascent of the northeast face by A. Hein and Karl Schreiner on August 25, 1926. The northeast pillar was conquered for the first time a few years later, on June 19, 1931, by Hubert Peterka and Fritz Proksch. On September 17, 1947, Sepp Brunhuber and W. Schneider succeeded in climbing over the northeast divide, with climbing difficulties up to UIAA 5+ in the rock . On August 9th and 25th, 2012 Günther Ausserhofer and Thomas Gasteiger managed the first ascent of the Dreiherrnspitze over the west ridge, over the so-called Lahner Schneide , with climbing difficulties up to UIAA 6+ to be mastered.

Base and ascent

Since the Dreiherrnspitze clearly towers above all neighboring mountains, it has been a popular vantage point for tourists since the second half of the 19th century. The base in the 1860s was a primitively furnished alpine hut in the uppermost Umbal Valley . The Clarahütte has been in existence since 1872 at an altitude of 2036  m , from where tours to the Dreiherrnspitze are still made today. On the South Tyrolean side, there are two more huts, the Birnlückenhütte and the Lenkjöchlhütte , which can serve as a base when climbing the summit.

Icy rocks on the Lahner Kees

All routes to the summit are undertaken as alpine tours that cross the glacier and require appropriate equipment and experience. Today's normal route from South Tyrol leads from the Lenkjöchlhütte on marked paths with little gain in altitude to the Hinteren Umballtörl (2849 m), with a short, insured rock passage to be overcome. From the yoke we continue in a north-easterly direction, crossing the south-eastern block slope of the Hohen Rosshuf , down to the Althauskees , the western foothills of the Umbalkee . A long, gently sloping traverse leads to a striking rock pillar, which you bypass to the east, to a steep firn slope, over which you reach a flatter glacier ridge. From there it goes again steeply over the southwest ridge to the summit rocks and over them to the summit. 4 to 5 hours are specified for the ascent from the Lenkjöchlhütte. The ascent from the Birnlückenhütte leads over the Lahnerscharte and the Lahnerkees up to the flatter glacier ridge and from there, in line with the route from the Lenkjöchlhütte over the southwest ridge to the summit. Since the route over the Lahnerkees has to overcome a steep, often icy rocky area, it is usually climbed in the descent, whereby you can rappel over this rocky area. The easiest ascent in East Tyrol leads from the Clarahütte in a northerly direction up to the Umbalkees, then over the glacier to the southwest ridge and over this to the summit in, according to literature, a walking time of 3½ to 4 hours.

The northeast face of the Dreiherrnspitze offers challenging climbing. There are routes through this wall with levels of difficulty UIAA III to V + . The routes through the northeast face are, however, at great risk of falling rocks and are therefore rarely used.

Literature and map

Web links

Commons : Dreiherrnspitze  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. Clem Clements, Jonathan de Ferranti, Eberhard Jurgalski , Mark Trengove: The 3000 m SUMMITS of AUSTRIA - 242 peaks with at least 150 m of prominence , October 2011, p. 15.
  2. Federal Office for Metrology and Surveying Austria: Dreiherrnspitze on the Austrian Map online (Austrian map 1: 50,000) .
  3. Johannes Ortner: Blunt and pointed . In: Experience the mountains - The magazine of the Alpine Association of South Tyrol . No. 4 , 2018, p. 62-63 .
  4. a b Yearbook of the Austrian Alpine Club , Volume IV, Vienna 1868, p. 331
  5. a b c d e Willi End: Alpenvereinsführer Venedigergruppe , Munich 2006, pp. 380–393, margin no. 1408–1433
  6. faszination-berg.com: Dreiherrenspitze (3,499m) - West ridge "Lahnerschneid" ( Memento from January 3, 2014 in the Internet Archive )
  7. Eduard Richter: The development of the Eastern Alps , III. Volume, Berlin 1894, p. 152 f.
  8. Hanspaul Menara : The most beautiful 3000m in South Tyrol. Athesia, Bozen 2014, ISBN 978-88-8266-911-9 , pp. 190-193