Barre des Écrins

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Barre des Écrins
Barre des Écrins with Dôme de Neige (right) and Barre Noire (left).

Barre des Écrins with Dôme de Neige (right) and Barre Noire (left).

height 4102  m
location France
Mountains Pelvoux , Western Alps
Dominance 107.3 km →  Picco Luigi Amedeo
Notch height 2045 m ↓  Col du Lautaret
Coordinates 44 ° 55 '20 "  N , 6 ° 21' 36"  E Coordinates: 44 ° 55 '20 "  N , 6 ° 21' 36"  E
Barre des Écrins (Alps)
Barre des Écrins
First ascent June 25, 1864 by Adolphus Warburton Moore , Horace Walker , Edward Whymper , Christian Almer , Michel Croz
Normal way glaciated alpine tour from the north side

The Barre des Écrins is the highest peak in the mountain range known as the Écrins massif , Les Écrins or Pelvoux massif in the French Dauphiné Alps . With a height of 4102  m , it is not only the southernmost and westernmost four-thousand-meter peaks in the Alps , but one of the most prominent and dominant peaks in the entire Alpine region. Greater heights are only reached in the Montblanc massif more than 100 km away ; the height of the gap - measured over the Col du Lautaret - is more than 2000 meters. In terms of dominance and prominence, it ranks 3rd and 12th in the entire Alpine region. The Barre is also the highest point in the middle of the Écrins National Park, founded in 1973, south of the ski resort of La Grave . It is the border mountain between the departments of Isere and Hautes-Alpes . The border runs from north to south over the Dôme de Neige des Écrins and turns south at Pic Lory to the Col des Avalanches ( 3479  m ). The main summit itself is on the territory of the Hautes-Alpes department in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur region on the border with the Isère department ( Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region ).

The Barre des Écrins rises from four surrounding glaciers , the most famous of which are the long Glacier Blanc on the north side and the rubble-covered Glacier Noir on the south-east side. The rough mountain range around the mountain is referred to by German-speaking mountaineers (but not in France) as the Haut- Dauphiné and represents one of the wildest and most pristine areas in the Alps.

Dôme de Neige and Pic Lory are minor peaks.

  • Nevertheless, the 4015  m high Dôme de Neige des Écrins is often approached as an independent goal, especially since the magical four thousand meter mark is exceeded and the narrow ridge crossing to the main summit is not for everyone. It is sometimes referred to as the winter summit (it can be climbed on touring skis up to its highest point). In contrast to the Pic Lory, the Dôme de Neige was included in the list of 82 peaks of four thousand meter peaks in the Alps according to the UIAA classification. Its notch height - measured over the Brèche Lory , which separates it from the bar - is 41 meters.
  • At the 4086  m high Pic Lory , the three great ridges of the Barre des Écrins come together. The Pic is exceeded when climbing the main summit on the "normal route".

This normal route leads from Ailefroide in the southeast of the mountain to the Refuge des Écrins , 3170  m , above the Glacier Blanc and further over the glacier to the right foot of the wall just below the Col des Écrins , 3367  m . From there you cross the glaciated summit flank between crevices and Seracs from bottom right to top left, before turning right again towards the summit wall. The highest point today is not climbed over the north face, but over the west ridge and the Pic Lory for the last few meters. The descent leads either over the Glacier Blanc back to Ailefroide or over the Col des Écrins down to the Glacier de Bonne Pierre and on to La Bérarde . Further, but much more difficult climbs lead from Glacier Noir over the south face rib up to Pic Lory or from Refuge Temple-Écrins over Col des Avalanches into Brèche Lory between Dôme de Neige and the main summit.

The Barre des Écrins above the Bonne-Pierre glacier

The Barre des Écrins was first climbed by Adolphus Warburton Moore , Horace Walker and Edward Whymper - together with their guides Christian Almer and Michel Croz - on June 25, 1864 via the direct north face. D. Armand-Delille performed the first winter ascent on February 19, 1926.

Web links

Commons : Barre des Écrins  - Collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ^ List of the most prominent peaks in Europe. In: Retrieved June 8, 2010 .
  2. ^ UIAA directory of the four thousand meter peaks in the Alps. In: . Archived from the original on February 12, 2009 ; Retrieved June 9, 2010 .