Eugene Guido Lammer
Eugen Guido Lammer (born June 18, 1863 in Rosenburg am Kamp , † February 2, 1945 in Vienna ) was an Austrian alpinist , alpine writer and educator.
Life
Eugen Guido Lammer was born the son of a paper mill owner and spent the first years of his life in Rosenburg am Kamp. After the economic decline of the paper mill, the family moved to Vienna, where his father and older brother set up a paper wholesaler. From 1872 to 1880 Eugen Guido Lammer attended the Franz-Josefs-Gymnasium in Vienna and obtained his doctorate in philosophy in 1884 when he was only 21. After completing military service and a trial semester at a Viennese grammar school, his career took him back to the Horn district , where he taught at the Horner grammar school from 1889 to 1893 . He then worked for two years at the Waidhofen an der Thaya grammar school and in 1897 was appointed full professor of German and Classical Philology at the Stockerau grammar school . His mountaineering activities also fall into this phase of his life.
Lammer was one of the first leaderless mountaineers and an advocate of clean style. He was one of the first to climb the mountains for the sake of personal experience, to use the mountains as a source of self-awareness, and an early pioneer of adventure mountaineering. He has particularly distinguished himself by going it alone in the ice of the glacier regions.
"Such hours cannot be outweighed with years from everyday life, they are sweeter than morphine for culture-weary nerves."
Lammer achieved several first ascent and first ascents , including the Nördliches Türndl in the Dachstein group in 1884 , the Hinter Fiescherhorn and the Kleine Grünhorn in the Bernese Alps in 1885 , as well as several peaks in the Texel group at the turn of the century . Lammer's rope companions included the inventor of the ten-point crampons , Oscar Eckenstein , and the Saxon Dolomite pioneer Oscar Schuster . Mostly, however, Lammer was traveling alone. In 1895 Lammer married the merchant's daughter Paula Kienzl, who came from St. Pölten . A formative mountain experience shortly afterwards, in which he and his young wife almost died, and the birth of his three children finally led to the abandonment of mountain sports. Lammer, however, remained connected to alpinism, published relevant articles and was in correspondence with numerous other alpinists, but also with writers such as the German playwright Gerhart Hauptmann . From 1921 he lived with his family in Hadersdorf-Weidlingau .
The Guido-Lammer-Bivouac on the Milchseescharte ( 2707 m ) in the Texel group of the Ötztal Alps is named after Lammer . In 1962 the Guido-Lammer-Gasse in Vienna- Donaustadt (22nd district) was named after him. His grave is in the Hütteldorfer Friedhof in Vienna's 14th district of Penzing .
Works
- Eugen Guido Lammer: Jungborn - mountain trips and heights of a lonely path seeker . Bergverlag Rudolf Rother . Munich 1929
literature
- Karl Mägdefrau: Lammer, Eugen Guido. In: New German Biography (NDB). Volume 13, Duncker & Humblot, Berlin 1982, ISBN 3-428-00194-X , p. 447 f. ( Digitized version ).
- (Robert) Hösch: Lammer, Eugen Guido. In: Austrian Biographical Lexicon 1815–1950 (ÖBL). Volume 4, Publishing House of the Austrian Academy of Sciences, Vienna 1969, p. 416 f. (Direct links on p. 416 , p. 417 ).
- Reinhold Messner , Horst Höfler (eds.): Eugen Guido Lammer. Thirst for danger of death . Augsburg, Steiger Verlag, 1999. ISBN 3-89652-186-1
- Ronald Lutz: Triumph of the male will, heroes, fight and war in mountain sports. In: Forum Wissenschaft 2/2002. Association of Democratic Scientists , accessed on June 8, 2013 .
- Bernhard Purin: Eugen Guido Lammer (1863–1945). A pioneer of modern alpinism was born in Rosenburg 150 years ago . In: Rosenburg-Mold Aktuell , issue 6–9 / 2013, pp. 6–8 (available online at: http://www.rosenburg-mold.at/system/web/zeitung.aspx?menuonr=222848344 ).
- Martin Walkner: On the emergence of modern alpinism in Fin de Siecle Vienna. The meaning of Eugen Guido Lammer .. In: Zeitgeschichte , year 1996, No. 9-10 / 1996 (XXIII. Year), pp. 291-305. (Online at ANNO ). .
Web links
- Written material from the historical alpine archive of the alpine clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol:
- Personal folder (1) for Eugen Guido Lammer (collection of materials). (PDF; 406 kB) Historical Alpine Archive of the Alpine Clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol, accessed on January 23, 2011 .
- Personal folder (2) for Eugen Guido Lammer (collection of materials). (PDF; 29.3 MB) Historical Alpine Archives of the Alpine Clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol, accessed on January 23, 2011 .
- Personal folder (3) on Eugen Guido Lammer (collection of materials). (PDF; 30.5 MB) Historical Alpine Archives of the Alpine Clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol, accessed on January 23, 2011 .
- Literature by and about Eugen Guido Lammer in the catalog of the German National Library
Individual evidence
- ^ Ronald Lutz: Forum Wissenschaft 2/2002
- ↑ Personal folder (1) on Eugen Guido Lammer (collection of materials). (PDF; 406 kB) Historical Alpine Archive of the Alpine Clubs in Germany, Austria and South Tyrol, accessed on January 23, 2011 .
- ↑ Guido Lammer bivouac on the DAV's hut finder
personal data | |
---|---|
SURNAME | Lammer, Eugene Guido |
BRIEF DESCRIPTION | Austrian alpinist and alpine writer |
DATE OF BIRTH | June 18, 1863 |
PLACE OF BIRTH | Rosenburg am Kamp , Lower Austria |
DATE OF DEATH | February 2, 1945 |
Place of death | Vienna |