Kesselwandspitze
| Kesselwandspitze | ||
|---|---|---|
 Kesselwandspitze from the north-northwest, on the descent from the Fluchtkogel |
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| height | 3414 m above sea level A. | |
| location | Tyrol , Austria | |
| Mountains | Ötztal Alps | |
| Dominance | 1.16 km → Fluchtkogel | |
| Notch height | 103 m ↓ Guslarjoch | |
| Coordinates | 46 ° 50 '56 " N , 10 ° 48' 0" E | |
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| First ascent | August 13, 1869 by Theodor Harpprecht and Josef Schnell | |
The Kesselwandspitze ( 3414 m above sea level ) is a rugged rocky peak in the Weißkamm of the Ötztal Alps in the Austrian state of Tyrol . It is located a good one kilometer south-southeast of the somewhat higher Fluchtkogel ( 3500 m ), in the ridge that borders the Kesselwandferner in the northeast. Some of the ascent routes to the summit lead over glaciers .
Location and surroundings
The Kesselwandspitze is separated from the Fluchkogel by the Guslarjoch ( 3311 m ) and the Obere Guslarjoch ( 3361 m ). To the southeast, the summit sends a long ridge made of brown granite , which runs from the summit to the Brandenburger Jöchl ( 3248 m ) almost in a southerly direction. In the further course it turns more to the east, at the eastern end the Guslar peaks rise up. In addition to this and the north-west ridge, the connecting ridge to the Fluchtkogel, there is also the striking east ridge, over which the Brandenburger Steig used to run, a path that is no longer maintained today.
To the southwest of the summit, the Kesselwandferner and the Gepatschferner form the largest contiguous glacier area in the Eastern Alps. Northeast of the summit is the Guslarferner .
Ascent history
In the period from August 27 to September 8, 1848, the Schlagintweit brothers stayed in the Weißkamm area and made numerous mountain trips. In their report they mention that they climbed the Guſſlar ( Langes s ), the Rofener Kögel and the Keſſelwand . However, the ascent on August 13, 1869 by Theodor Harpprecht and Josef Schnell is clearly proven and documented . But they actually wanted to climb the Fluchtkogel, which had been climbed for the first time just under a month earlier. When they reached the summit, they immediately noticed their mistake.
The southeast face, the climbing difficulties of III. Degree was first committed in 1934 by L. Sztrokay and G. Kmetonyi.
Climbs
There used to be a climbing system , the Brandenburger Steig , which has now completely fallen into disrepair. This route can brittle Schrofen the boiler wall tip from the Vernagthütte reached in about 2 hours.
An alternative option is the ascent over the northwest ridge from the Guslarjoch ( UIAA I ). According to the literature, the walking time from the Guslarjoch is about half an hour, the joch can be reached in about one hour from the Brandenburg House and about two hours from the Vernagthütte, both variants are serious high-altitude tours . Crossing the ridge from the Upper Guslarjoch to the north-west to the lower, actual Guslarjoch requires climbing in the IV or V degree.
literature
- Walter Klier : Alpine Club Guide Ötztal Alps. Bergverlag Rudolf Rother , Munich 2006, ISBN 3-7633-1123-8
- Alpine club map sheet 30/2, 1: 25,000, Ötztal Alps, Weißkugel. ISBN 3-928777-39-4
Individual evidence
- ↑ This and all information not specially marked are taken from the following source: Klier: Ötztaler Alpen. Marginal number 2760, see literature
- ↑ Alexander Hunderpfund: Zum Gepatsch. Uphill, February 2008 ( page no longer available , search in web archives ) Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.
- ^ Newspaper Bote for Tyrol and Vorarlberg , year 1848, No. 11
- ^ Eduard Richter : The development of the Eastern Alps. Volume 2, page 270, German and Austrian Alpine Association, Berlin 1893–1894
- ↑ according to Klier "Nordostgrat", but this is not possible according to the Alpine Club map.
Web link
- Panorama map of the Ötztal Alps near Vent (PDF; 2.7 MB)