Kyōto Fukushoku Bunka Kenkyū Zaidan

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The Kyoto Fukushoku Bunka Kenkyu Zaidan ( jap. 公益財団法人京都服飾文化研究財団, KÖKI zaidan Hojin ~ , dt "Charitable Foundation Foundation for the Study of clothing and Accessoirkultur"., Eng. Kyoto Costume Institute , shortly KCI) has been collecting 1978 in Kyoto systematically historical robes and modern clothing as well as fashion accessories of the western world and Japanese fashion of the 17th to the 21st century. The foundation designs fashion exhibitions that are shown in fashion and art museums around the world.

Foundation and organization

The founding of the KCI goes back to the first major Japanese fashion exhibition Innovative Clothes 1909-1939 at the Metropolitan Museum of Art . Inspired by the exhibition, the Vice President of the Kyoto's Chamber of Commerce and Industry and Director of Wacoal Holdings Corporation , one of the largest Japanese manufacturers of lineries , Koichi Tsukamoto, suggested the establishment of a fashion institute that systematically collects, researches, preserves and exhibits fashion from the western world .

The KCI was established in April 1978 after approval by the Japanese Cultural Authority . Today the institute is headed by Yoshikata Tsukamoto, the son of the founder. The philosophy of the institute is also expressed in the fact that it does not have its own large exhibition building. There are several smaller exhibition rooms at the Kyoto Costume Institute that show a cross-section of the collections. The financial means are concentrated on the purchase and conservation, if necessary restoration of the objects. The thematic exhibitions are designed at the KCI and are regularly loaned to internationally known museums or presented to the public in the National Museum of Modern Art Kyoto .

collection

The museum's collection ranges from court clothes from the 17th century to contemporary fashion from international fashion designers. The institute's collection includes around 12,000 items of clothing and 16,000 documents on fashion history. Most of the exhibits were donated by designers and fashion houses . Among other things, the institute received a donation of 1,000 items of clothing from the Comme des Garçons collection. The collection is stored in an air-conditioned environment at a temperature of 20 ° C and a humidity of 50%. The institute has set itself the task of making the objects accessible to the public. Conservationally sensitive objects are shown on displays today so as not to expose them to light.

In addition to a small gallery in which temporary exhibitions are shown, the museum has an extensive, internationally renowned library . The KCI examines fashion trends in different eras through research into western clothing.

A digital archive, in which 12,000 objects are recorded, is available to the public for research purposes. Around 300 representative objects are presented in the KCT Digital Archive on the Internet. The highlights of the collection include an iron corset from the 17th century, the court dresses of the 18th century, an extensive collection by Paul Poiret and Elsa Schiaparelli , the early Chanel dresses, the trend-setting creations by Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent , the Mondrian dress and the metal plate dresses by Paco Rabanne . The collection pays particular attention to the Japanese influence on Western European fashion development. The institute has extensive collections by Yohji Yamamoto , Kenzo , Comme des Garçons , Issey Miyake , Jun'ya Watanabe and Koji Tatsuno as well as shoe creations by Tokyo Kumagaï .

Exhibitions (selection)

The institute pays particular attention to the processing of fashion history and the presentation of the collection. From the beginning, they worked with renowned museums around the world. In order to be able to present the objects realistically, all historical garments were measured and five types of dolls developed, which do justice to the body shapes of the 19th and 20th centuries. The figurines developed at the Kyoto Costume Institute are now used by almost 70 museums worldwide for the presentation of clothing, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Musée de la Mode et du Costume or the Los Angeles County Museum of Art . The most important, internationally shown exhibitions include:

Publications of the institute (selection)

  • Dresstudy (series of publications by the institute), 1982–2014
  • Fashiontalks , (Institute's series of publications), from 2014
  • Evolution of Fashion , 1980
  • The Undercover Story , 1983
  • Mariano Fortuny 1871-1949 , 1985
  • Revolution in Fashion 1715-1815 , 1989
  • Japonism in Fashion , 1996
  • Visions of the Body , 1999
  • Fashion in Colors: VIKTOR & ROLF & KCI , 2004
  • Luxury in fashion reconsidered , 2009
  • Fashion: A History from the 18th Century to the 20th Century, Collection from the Kyoto Costume Institute , Taschen-Verlag, 2002 (in ten languages)
  • Fashion: A History of Fashion in the 20th Century , Taschen-Verlag, 2013
  • Icon series , Taschen-Verlag, 2004 (in seven languages)
  • Special Edition , Taschen-Verlag, 2005 (in four languages)
  • Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion , Merrell Publishers, 2010, (in English)

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. a b Kyoto Costume Institute (ed.): Fashion - A fashion history from the 18th to the 20th century . Taschen, Cologne 2015, ISBN 978-3-8365-5716-0 , pp. 7th ff .
  2. Japan Info: Love Fashion and History? 4 Fashion Museums to Visit in Japan | Japan info. In: jpninfo.com. Retrieved November 12, 2016 .
  3. ^ Kyoto Costume Institute . In: Fashion & Textile Museums . ( fashionandtextilemuseums.com [accessed November 12, 2016]).
  4. a b KCI Digital Archive | The Kyoto Costume Institute. In: www.kci.or.jp. Retrieved November 11, 2016 .