Tokyo Kumagaï

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Tokyo Kumagaï ( Japanese 熊 谷 登 喜 夫 , Kumagai Tokyo ; born August 9, 1947 in Sendai , Japan , † August 25, 1987 in Paris , France ) was a Japanese shoe and fashion designer . Among his most famous designs belonging Shoes to eat - collection , which, like the ballerinas The Mouse and the Cat are exhibited in many museums of Applied Arts.

Life

After graduating from high school, he began his education in 1966 at the renowned Bunka College of Fashion in Tokyo , where fashion designers such as Kenzo , Issey Miyake , Yohji Yamamoto and Jun'ya Watanabe were trained before him . After completing his studies, he went to Paris and worked for the fashion houses Yves Saint Laurent and Jean-Charles de Castelbajac . While working at Castelbajac, he also designed shoes for Pierre d'Alby . During this time, the Italian designer Elio Fiorucci became aware of the Japanese shoe designer and invited him to Milan for a collaboration. Kumagaï designed gold and silver sneakers for the newly founded fashion label Fioruccis. At the same time he began working with Cerruti and Issey Miyake, for whose collections he designed shoes.

In 1981 he opened his own shoe shop in Paris on Place des Victoires . His extravagant shoe collections were inspired by modern painting - particularly by Dalí , Mondrian and Kandinsky -, photographs and nature. Many of his shoes are hand-painted and are characterized by applications , masks , braids , zippers and the use of unusual materials. In that year he designed collections of shoes with marble decorations using the trompe-l'oeil technique.

Due to his commercial success, he was able to open his second shop on Rue Saint-Honoré in 1982 . During these years he designed shoes with an animal skin look. The shoes were equipped with fur applications, ears, eyes, whiskers and tails. In 1983 he designed a drip painting shoe collection based on the paintings by Jackson Pollock .

In the same year he founded the label Tokio Kumagaï International in Tokyo and opened two boutiques in Tokyo and New York on Madinson Avenue . Large department stores in Paris, New York and Tokyo sold his collections exclusively. In 1984 Kumagaï introduced the Shoes to Eat collection. He designed pumps , traditional Geta sandals and men's low shoes in the style of Shokuhin Sanpuru , Japanese sample plates for dishes made of wax , resin and plastic . He placed realistic resin representations of thin slices of meat, ice cream scoops with waffles and rice with beans as decorations on the shoes.

In 1985 he presented his first ready-to-wear collection for men in Japan . In addition, he designed a small number of women's outerwear and leather accessories. In addition to his extravagant shoes, Kumagaï also created numerous creations of simple, elegant pumps, sandals and men's shoes.

Tokyo Kumagaï died of liver cancer in Paris in August 1987 at the age of 40 .

His shoe collections are now part of the holdings of numerous fashion museums and museums for applied arts and are shown at numerous international exhibitions. The Metropolitan Museum of Art , Kyoto Costume Institute , the Dutch Shoe and Leather Museum, Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris , the National Gallery of Australia, and the Powerhouse Museum of Science and Design have exhibits from Tokyo Kumagaï.

Works (selection)

His customers include Princess Diana , Caroline and Stéphanie von Monaco .

  • Pumps Glasses
  • Eye leather sandal
  • Pumps Cat
  • Ballerina Cock
  • Shoe series Taberu Kutsu ( "Shoes for Eating ")
  • Kandinsky shoe
  • Rolls-Roys shoe
  • Sandal African mask
  • Slingback Swan
  • Slipper grape
  • Sportscar slipper
  • Ballerina Mouse
  • Slipper Duck
  • Shoes Lion
  • Rabbit pumps

Exhibitions (selection)

  • A vision of fashion from the early 20th century to the present day , Contemporary Art Museum, Kumamoto (2011)
  • Shoeting Stars , Klagenfurt (2015)
  • Footprint: The Tracks of Shoes in Fashion , Antwerp (2015-2016)

Awards

  • Soen Prize (1968)
  • Endoh Prize (1970)

literature

  • Nederlands Leder- en Schoenenmuseum (ed.): Tokio Kumagaï: shoes , Waalwijk 1991, 227 pp. (In English)

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Tokyo Kumagaï | Shoes | French | The Met. In: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, ie The Met Museum. Retrieved November 12, 2016 .
  2. ↑ Tokyo Kumagaï | Pumps | French | The Met. In: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, ie The Met Museum. Retrieved November 12, 2016 .
  3. ↑ Paire de souliers | Paris museums. In: parismuseescollections.paris.fr. Retrieved November 13, 2016 .
  4. ↑ Guillaume Garnier: Dictionnaire de la Mode . In: Les Dictionnaires d'Universalis . tape 38 , 2015, ISBN 978-2-341-00220-2 .
  5. ↑ Tokyo Kumagaï | MOUSE INTERRUPTED. In: mouseinterrupted.wordpress.com. Retrieved November 12, 2016 .
  6. ↑ Tokyo Kumagaï | virtualshoemuseum.com. In: www.virtualshoemuseum.com. Retrieved November 12, 2016 .
  7. ↑ Glasses. In: virtualshoemuseum.com. Retrieved November 12, 2016 .
  8. ↑ Eye. In: virtualshoemuseum.com. Retrieved November 12, 2016 .
  9. ↑ MoMu presents footprint. The Tracks of Shoes in Fashion - MoMu Blog. In: blog.momu.be. Retrieved November 12, 2016 .
  10. ↑ Tokyo Kumagaï | Pumps | French | The Met. In: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, ie The Met Museum. Retrieved November 12, 2016 .
  11. ↑ a b c d Detail of collections 1980s | KCI Digital Archives. (No longer available online.) In: www.kci.or.jp. Archived from the original on December 21, 2016 ; accessed on November 13, 2016 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.kci.or.jp
  12. ↑ The Kyoto Costume Institute (ed.): Fashion - A fashion story from the 18th to the 20th century . Taschen, Cologne 2015, ISBN 978-3-8365-5716-0 , pp. 552-554 .
  13. ↑ Detail of collections 1980s | KCI Digital Archives. (No longer available online.) In: www.kci.or.jp. Archived from the original on December 21, 2016 ; accessed on November 13, 2016 . Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.kci.or.jp
  14. ↑ 97/126/3 Sandal, single, women's, 'African mask', leather / suede / calfskin / rubber, Tokyo Kumagai, designed in Paris, made in Italy, 1985. In: www.powerhousemuseum.com. Retrieved November 12, 2016 .
  15. ↑ 97/126/4 Shoe, single, women's 'Swan', leather, Tokyo Kumagai, designed in Paris, made in Italy, 1983. In: www.powerhousemuseum.com. Retrieved November 12, 2016 .
  16. ↑ 97/126/2 Slip on shoe, single, women's, 'Grape-vine', leather / suede / rubber, Tokyo Kumagai, designed in Paris, made in Italy, 1987. In: www.powerhousemuseum.com. Retrieved November 12, 2016 .
  17. ↑ 97/126/1 Slip on shoe, single, women's, 'Sportscar', leather / plastic / rubber, Tokyo Kumagai, designed in Paris, made in Italy, 1984. In: www.powerhousemuseum.com. Retrieved November 12, 2016 .
  18. ↑ 95/11/1 Shoes, womens, pair, 'Mouse', pony-skin / leather, designed by Tokio Kumagai, in Paris, France, made in Italy, 1986-1987. In: www.powerhousemuseum.com. Retrieved November 12, 2016 .
  19. ↑ Paire de souliers | Paris museums. In: parismuseescollections.paris.fr. Retrieved November 13, 2016 .
personal data
SURNAME Kumagaï, Tokyo
ALTERNATIVE NAMES 熊 谷 登 喜 夫 (Japanese); Kumagai Tokyo
BRIEF DESCRIPTION Japanese shoe and fashion designer
DATE OF BIRTH August 9, 1947
PLACE OF BIRTH Sendai , Japan
DATE OF DEATH August 25, 1987
Place of death Paris , France