Upper fork horn
Upper fork horn | ||
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Obergabelhorn and Wellenkuppe |
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height | 4063 m above sea level M. | |
location | Canton of Valais , Switzerland | |
Mountains | Valais Alps , Weisshorn Group | |
Dominance | 3.1 km → Zinalrothorn | |
Notch height | 536 m ↓ Triftjoch | |
Coordinates | 617 759 / 98588 | |
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First ascent | July 6, 1865 by Adolphus Warburton Moore , Horace Walker and Jakob Anderegg | |
Normal way | Glaciated alpine tour |
The Ober Gabelhorn (often also the Obergabelhorn , but not the Gabelhorn ) is a four-thousand-meter peak in the Valais Alps .
Starting points for an ascent are Zermatt or Zinal .
The first ascent was made on July 6, 1865 by Adolphus Warburton Moore , Horace Walker and Jakob Anderegg . The next day the losers followed in the race for the summit, Francis Douglas , Peter Taugwalder and Joseph Viennin on their third attempt. Francis Douglas was killed a week later on the first ascent of the Matterhorn .
The normal route leads from the Rothornhütte (3198 m) over the Trift glacier to the shoulder of the Wellenkuppe (3909 m), over this with easy climbing ( III- ) and following the pronounced east-northeast ridge over the large Gendarme (Kluckerturm, fixed ropes ) to the summit. It is a combined high-altitude tour ( III +, ice up to 50 °, ZS / AD ). Other interesting climbs are the Arbengrat ( Westsüdwestgrat, III +, ZS / AD ) and the heavily glaciated, rarely climbed north face ( ice 55 °, S / D ).
literature
- Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf, Hermann Biner, Vincent Theler: Matterhorn. Dent Blanche. Weisshorn. From Col Collon to Theodulpass. SAC-Verlag, Bern 2010, ISBN 978-3-85902-297-3 .
- Hermann Biner: Alpine tours in Valais. From Trient to the Nufenen Pass. 3. Edition. SAC-Verlag, Bern 2002, ISBN 3-85902-204-0 .
- Helmut Dumler, Willi P. Burkhardt: Four-thousanders in the Alps. 12th, updated edition. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2001, ISBN 3-7633-7427-2 .
- Erich Vanis : In the steep ice. 80 ice walls in the Alps. BLV Verlagsgesellschaft, Munich et al. 1980, ISBN 3-405-12158-2 .
- Michael Waeber: Valais Alps. Area guide for hikers, mountaineers, ski tourers and climbers. The most popular climbs to all important peaks with descriptions of all recommended ski tours. 12th edition. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 1999, ISBN 3-7633-2416-X .
Web links
- Ober Gabelhorn at 4000m - the four-thousand-meter peaks of the Alps
- Ober Gabelhorn at Peakware (English)
- The Ober Gabelhorn on Mount Wiki
- Video crossing Obergabelhorn