Patrick Kelly (fashion designer)

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Patrick Kelly (born September 24, 1954 in Vicksburg , United States , † January 1, 1990 in Paris , France ) was an American fashion designer . He was the first American to be accepted into the Fédération française de la couture .

life and work

Patrick Kelly was born in Vicksburg, Mississippi in 1954. Kelly first developed an interest in fashion in elementary school when he was learning to sew. After graduating from high school in 1972, he briefly attended Jackson State University in Mississippi before moving to Atlanta .

In Atlanta, Kelly worked in a thrift store, where he got access to donated designer clothes and coats, which he modified and sold in addition to his own designs. He opened his own business in the city's Buckhead district. In 1979, he met supermodel Pat Cleveland , who admired his clothes and encouraged him to move to New York City . After an unsuccessful year in New York, he moved to Paris in 1980, again at Cleveland's suggestion. Kelly quickly found success in Paris and quickly caused a sensation with his light and colored jersey dresses, which he adorned with colored buttons and bows. In Paris, Kelly also met Bjorn Amelan, who became his lover and took on a leading role in Kelly's young company.

In 1985 Kelly began selling his designs in the prestigious Victoire boutiques in Paris. In an interview, a shop owner said: “In 1985 Patrick landed in my shop like a bomb. He was as gay and energetic as his clothes. ”The French edition of Elle dedicated a six-page article to Kelly in its February issue. Kelly's customers also included numerous stars such as Bette Davis , Paloma Picasso , Grace Jones , Madonna , Cicely Tyson and Goldie Hawn .

In 1987 the fashion group Warnaco signed an agreement to produce Kelly's clothing. With the support of Warnaco, Kelly Designs were soon available in stores around the world. With the support of designer Sonia Rykiel , Kelly was accepted into the prestigious Chambre syndicale du prêt-à-porter des couturiers et des créateurs de mode in 1988. Kelly's young label became an official partner of brands like Yves Saint Laurent , Chanel and Christian Dior . Kelly was the first American to join the organization, which is also the trade association for the French manufactured goods industry. Through this affiliation Kelly was able to present his catwalk shows in the Louvre , among other places .

Kelly was also a collector of items that display racial stereotypes that many individuals may find challenging, offensive, or demeaning. These include watermelon wedges, black baby dolls, bananas or golliwogs . He used these materials in his collections in an ironic way.

Patrick Kelly's grave

In a 1987 interview with People Magazine , Kelly said of the target audience for his fashion: “I design for fat women, thin women, all types of women. My message is that you are as beautiful as you are. ”At his fashion show in March 1987, one of his models was eight months pregnant.

In 1989 Kelly was at the height of his success and produced his fashion in addition to Warnaco, among others, for Benetton . He also developed plans for lingerie, perfume and menswear lines. In August 1989, Kelly fell ill with AIDS and was unable to complete preparations for his October show. He died on January 1, 1990. At Kelly's memorial service, his friend and client Gloria Steinem concluded her speech with the words: "Instead of sharing us with gold and jewels, he united us with buttons and bows." Kelly is in the Père Cemetery in Paris Bury Lachaise .

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Silva Horacio: Delta Force. New York Times, February 22, 2004, accessed February 27, 2018 .
  2. ^ Nina Hyde: From Pauper To the Prints Of Paris. Washington Post, November 9, 1986; accessed February 27, 2018 .
  3. ↑ Meggan Dissly: fashion An American in Paris. The Southern accent of designer Patrick Kelly. The Christian Science Monitor, August 25, 1988, accessed February 27, 2018 .
  4. ↑ Kathryn Sermak: Bette Davis and Designer Patrick Kelly Made Oddly Perfect Pals. Daily Beast, September 17, 2017, accessed February 27, 2018 .
  5. ^ Margot Hornblower: An Original American In Paris: PATRICK KELLY. Time, April 3, 1989, accessed February 27, 2018 .
  6. ^ Bonnie Johnson: In Paris, His Slinky Dresses Have Made Mississippi-Born Designer Patrick Kelly the New King of Cling. People Magazine, June 15, 1987, accessed February 27, 2018 .
  7. ↑ Patrick Kelly: A Retrospective. Brooklyn Museum, 2004, accessed February 27, 2018 .
personal data
SURNAME Kelly, Patrick
BRIEF DESCRIPTION American fashion designer
DATE OF BIRTH September 24, 1954
PLACE OF BIRTH Vicksburg , United States
DATE OF DEATH January 1, 1990
Place of death Paris , France