Dutch sauce
Hollandaise sauce , often hollandaise sauce ( French [ Sos ʔɔlɑdɛːz called]), is a bright, whipped butter sauce and one of the basic sauces of classic French cuisine . It is usually served with fish , seafood and vegetables (e.g. asparagus).
preparation
It is based on an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W) , which is created by slowly stirring fat into egg yolk in drops.
After the classic Escoffier -Recipe from the early 20th century, there is a hollandaise sauce exclusively from egg yolk, clarified butter (only formed during the clarification clarified butter is used), salt and pepper .
In German-speaking countries, the term whipped butter sauce was used for this . With reference to the enormous costs (a hen's egg cost the same as a glass of beer (0.3 liters) in a restaurant in 1912 : 0.23 marks ), "stretches" with various means were recommended even then: The roux is brewed with broth in the first place of these methods.
Traditionally, butter is melted for preparation. In parallel, the egg yolk is supplemented with a little water; According to more recent recipes, whipped with white wine or a reduction of wine or wine vinegar , shallots and bay leaves and as a mixture in a water bath until the mixture gradually thickens. Then you add the lukewarm, liquid butter little by little while still beating, so that a creamy emulsion forms. It is seasoned with salt, white pepper and lemon juice and possibly a little Worcestershire sauce .
In parallel, other types of preparation have become established:
- If you avoid the water bath, a casserole with a thick base is suitable, in which the egg yolk and spice mixture is slowly heated until it leaves clear traces on the base: Now stir in the liquid butter (first carefully, drop by drop, each time after it has completely bonded, and after thickening then thread-wise) results in the emulsion. For the sake of simplicity, the whey portion of the liquid butter remains in the container in which the butter was heated.
- Rapid preparation in a kitchen mixer is also possible. Here the sauce is made by pouring the clarified butter, which should be at about boiling temperature (also first drop by drop, later in a thin stream) into the cold egg yolk and spice mixture while whipping it until it is frothy.
Curdled sauce can possibly be whipped again after adding a few drops of cold water: In stubborn cases, a new mixture of egg yolk and pure butter is necessary, into which the curdled mixture is finally stirred.
False Dutch sauce and industrial products
False Dutch sauce consists of a white base sauce (svw roux , which is cooked through with a broth ), which can then be supplemented with egg yolk, butter and lemon juice.
Dutch sauce is also offered by the food industry in various forms as ready-made products , none of which have anything in common with the original Escoffier recipe: Instead of concentrated butter, industrially produced Dutch sauces usually contain vegetable oils ; in addition to the egg yolk, other emulsifiers or thickeners are also added. Other components of industrial sauces are usually also flavorings such as diacetyl (butter flavor) and seasoning , and sometimes also colorings such as capsanthin or carotene .
In 1995, however, the European Court of Justice ruled that sauce containing vegetable fat instead of butter could be called “Sauce hollandaise”, and that there was and does not exist a protection claim for this term.
The powder mixes (industrial products) from various manufacturers also contain a considerable amount of starch and thickening agents in addition to dry egg yolks, so that despite the desired (generous) addition of butter (instead of the pure butter fat provided according to the classic recipe), no classic hollandaise sauce is achieved in the production but also this only results in a fake Dutch sauce .
history
According to the sources, the sauce is of French origin. It was probably created in Normandy in the 18th century . One of the oldest known recipes for sauce à la hollandaise appeared in the book Dons de Comus in 1758 , but was made only with butter, flour, bouillon and herbs, without egg. The name is supposed to be an allusion to the high quality of Dutch dairy products. Prosper Montagné , the first editor of Larousse gastronomique , preferred the name Sauce Isigny . Isigny butter has a very good reputation in France.
Variants and derivatives
A variant of the Dutch sauce is the béarnaise sauce , which is also based on egg yolk and butter, but has a spicier taste thanks to the use of a reduction of wine and herbs. Sometimes, however, it is viewed as an independent base sauce.
The hollandaise sauce is the basis of several derivations by adding other ingredients. Examples include:
- If you mix a little fish sauce (Velouté de poisson, not the seasoning sauce used in Asian cuisine ) with the Dutch sauce , as well as some caviar and whipped cream, you get the caviar sauce ( sauce au caviar ), which goes well with cooked salmon.
- The cédard sauce ( sauce cédard ) contains a reduced mixture of cooked mushrooms, lemon juice and poultry extract (glace de volaille) as a modifying flavor ingredient. It is primarily served with asparagus and artichokes.
- For the choron ( sauce choron ), and Aurora sauce , a little tomato paste is added.
- In the Dijon sauce ( sauce dijonnaise ), the hollandaise is seasoned with mustard and whipped cream. This variant is eaten with boiled fish and lost or soft eggs.
- For the Divine Sauce ( Sauce divine ) you use poultry extract and whipped unsweetened cream
- With the Maltese Sauce ( Sauce maltaise ), hollandaise blood orange juice or zest are added to the finished sauce . It is usually served with asparagus.
- For the romanov sauce , also known as caviar sauce , caviar is added
- As a cream sauce ( sauce mousseline ) is called the derivative, in the whipped unsweetened cream is added.
- The Venetian sauce ( Sauce vénitienne ) is also served with cooked fish or eggs , for which a puree of parsley, chervil, tarragon and a little spinach is added to the Dutch sauce.
literature
- Klaus Roth : Hollandaise sauce, with three stars or as a bag from the supermarket . In: Klaus Roth (Ed.): Chemical delicacies . Wiley-VCH, Weinheim 2010, ISBN 978-3-527-32752-2 , pp. 14–25 (first in: Chemistry in our time . 2008 (42), pp. 226–236).
- Klinger, Hermann Grüner, Reinhold Metz (ed.): The young cook . 25th edition, specialist book publisher Dr. Pfanneberg & Co., Gießen 1993, ISBN 3-8057-0386-4 , p. 346 ff.
Web links
Individual evidence
- ↑ a b c Elizabeth Wolf-Cohen: The ABC of Cooking - Over 250 Cooking Techniques and Basic Recipes Step by Step Quantum Publishing, London 2003 (German-language edition Gondrom, Bindlach 2005), ISBN 3-8112-2691-6 , pp. 39, 42 -44.
- ↑ ECJ, judgment of October 26, 1995 - C-51/94
- ^ Claudine Brécourt-Villars, Mots de table, mots de bouche , article Hollandaise , Paris 1997
- ^ Alan Davidson, The Oxford Companion to Food , Hollandaise article , 2nd ed. New York 2006
- ↑ Christian Millau et al. a., Les mots de la cuisine et de la table , Belin 1990, p. 231