Schlieferspitze
| Schlieferspitze | ||
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 Schlieferspitze with the eastern Sonntagkees from the southeast |
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| height | 3290 m above sea level A. | |
| location | Salzburg , Austria | |
| Mountains | Venediger group | |
| Dominance | 4.5 km → Hinterer Maurerkeeskopf | |
| Notch height | 527 m ↓ Krimmler Törl | |
| Coordinates | 47 ° 7 '23 " N , 12 ° 14' 34" E | |
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| First ascent | August 22, 1871 by Eduard Richter and Johann Stüdl | |
| Normal way | from Warnsdorfer Hütte over the southwest ridge | |
The Schlieferspitze is a 3290 m above sea level. A. high mountain in the Krimmler Kamm of the Venediger group . The ridge is located in the northwest of the Hohe Tauern , part of the Central Alps in the Austrian state of Salzburg . The peak is the highest point in the Krimmler Kamm and is considered one of the most beautiful peaks in the Venediger group in literature. It is perceived as an extremely dominant mountain both from the Krimmler Achental in the southwest and to the Obersulzbachtal in the northeast . To the north-west, north-east, south-east and south-west, it sends out long, even ridges that each reach considerable lengths of around two kilometers. The mountain was first climbed on August 22, 1871 by Eduard Richter , professor of geography at the University of Graz, and Johann Stüdl , a businessman from Prague and a founding member of the German Alpine Association .
Surroundings
In the north, east and west of the Schlieferspitze glaciers stretch up to a height of over 3,100 meters. In the north lies the Hinterjaidbachkees , in the east the eastern Sonntagkees and in the west finally the western Jaidbachkees .
The northeast ridge runs out into Obersulzbachtal, the southwest ridge runs as a cattle wall down to the Krimmler Achental. Significant neighboring mountains can only be found in the northwest and southeast ridge. To the northwest, 1 km away, are the 3100 m high Jaidbachspitze and another 1000 m the Unlaßkarkopf with a height of 3074 m . During the Südostgrats and a half kilometers away, are roughly the two Schliefertürme ( southeastern tower with 3142 and northwestern tower with 3126 m height) and a few hundred meters away nor the 3136 m high Sunday head .
Significant settlements in the wider area in East Tyrol are the village of Ströden in the upper Virgental , which is a good 13 kilometers as the crow flies in the south-east, as well as in the Salzburg area, about 12 km in the north-northwest, Krimml on Gerlos Straße .
Base and ascent
The path of the first climbers from 1871 led from the Johannishütte , located far to the southeast in the Dorfertal , at an altitude of 2121 meters in a northeastern direction. According to the original description, it then went over the Obersulzbachtörl ( 2918 m ) and bypassing the extensive Obersulzbachferner in a large western arc almost to the Krimmler Törl ( 2776 m ). Then the western Sonntagskees was crossed, and over several rock ridges, not shown on the map of the Alpine Club at that time, with fissures and hollows, one penetrated further. Finally, the summit of the Schlieferspitze was reached after 7½ hours of walking via the southeast ridge. On the same day, the two alpinists finally reached Prägraten am Großvenediger . The first winter ascent of the Schlieferspitze was made by a group of skiers around F. Müller on April 17th, 1908.
Today's base for an ascent of the Schlieferspitze is the Warnsdorfer Hut , located south in the uppermost Krimmler Achental at an altitude of 2336 meters . The normal route to the summit leads in a northerly direction to the southwest ridge, then continues over a steep upswing in, according to literature, easy climbing with difficulty UIAA II- to the summit cross . The walking time is about 3½ hours. From 1904 to 1934 climbing routes were also opened through the walls and flanks of the peak, but they are no longer used due to the high risk of falling rocks.
Literature and map
- Willi End : Alpine Club Leader Venediger Group , Munich 2006, ISBN 3-7633-1242-0
- Eduard Richter : Development of the Eastern Alps , III. Volume published by the German and Austrian Alpine Club, Berlin 1894
- Alpine Club Map 1: 25,000, sheet 36, Venediger Group
Web links
Individual evidence
- ^ Federal Office for Metrology and Surveying Austria: Austrian Map online (Austrian map 1: 50,000) .
- ^ Eduard Richter: Development of the Eastern Alps , III. Volume, Berlin 1894, p. 161
- ^ Austrian Alpine Newspaper IX. Year, Vienna 1909, p. 445
- ↑ Willi End: Alpenvereinsführer Venedigergruppe , Munich 2006, p. 405 f., Margin no. 1470 ff.