Silk Road Fashion

from Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The Silk Road Fashion Project , which has been running since August 2013, is a German-Chinese interdisciplinary research project that has set itself the task of improving communication through clothing from the 1st millennium BC. Chr. In Ostzentralasien explore. It is hoped that this will provide insights into technical and physical knowledge, social structures , availability of resources, economic history and trade networks in East Central Asia around 1200 BC. To 300 AD

The project is part of the “Language of Objects” priority funding from the Federal Ministry of Education and Research (BMBF). It gained greater notoriety through the discovery of the world's oldest trousers .

Participating project partners

The project partners involved are the German Archaeological Institute , Eurasia Department, Beijing branch; Scientific department of the central office, the State Office for Monument Preservation and Archeology Saxony-Anhalt - State Museum for Prehistory , the Martin Luther University Halle-Wittenberg , Institute for Chemistry, Department of Organic Chemistry, the Free University of Berlin with the Art History Institute, specializing in East Asian Art History and the Institute for Geological Sciences, specializing in paleontology, the Leibniz Institute for Zoo and Wildlife Research (IZW) in the Forschungsverbund Berlin e. V., the Berlin-Brandenburg Academy of Sciences (BBAW), Turfanforschung and, on the Chinese side, the Chinese Academy for Cultural Heritage and the Monument Office of the Uygur Autonomous Region, Xinjiang. The contract for this cooperation project was signed on April 11, 2013 between the German Archaeological Institute, the Monument Office of the Uyguren Xinjiang Region and the Chinese Academy for Cultural Heritage in the presence of the State Office for Cultural Heritage of the People's Republic of China and the German Embassy in Beijing. The project is led by Mayke Wagner from the German Archaeological Institute.

Scientific approach

The research and excavations focus on two sites, burial grounds with several thousand graves from several centuries. The excavations , which usually have lasted for several decades, are to be scientifically integrated into the current state of research with the help of an interdisciplinary team. The cooperation between the different institutes enables complex research with methods of archeology , textile and leather research and dye, weave and pattern analysis , ornamentation, paleopathology , vegetation and climate research as well as linguistics . Approx. 20 complete furnishings with a total of around 100 objects and object groups that were found in the Turfan and Hami regions are examined.

The subject of investigation are the following questions: When was this clothing worn? Where did you wear what clothes? How was it made? Are there gender, age or status-specific characteristics? Are there special modes of individual groups? What conclusions can be drawn from the clothes to the former geo-climatic conditions and the former trade routes draw.

Comparative studies also include the neighboring regions in the analyzes. The Pazyryk culture in the Altai , graves of the Xiongnu nomads in Mongolia , Chinese textiles and cut models or Greco-Roman representations of clothing and accessories are examined .

research results

In the Uygur Autonomous Region , Xinjiang , in the Turfan Oasis in northwest China, textiles up to 3000 years old have been found in graves . At this time, nomadic grazing was expanding in Asia. The increasing extreme drought ensured natural conservation. A 3,200 year old woven woolen trousers, which consists of two leg pieces and a stepped gusset, has been officially considered the oldest trousers in the world since the beginning of 2014. The researchers found that the fabrics were not tailored, but instead were woven to fit each individual wearer. Based on the other finds in the graves, such as typical weapons and bridles , it is assumed that these trousers were worn by riders . This is also indicated by the wide crotch part, which enables the wearer to sit comfortably on the horse with his legs apart .

The clothing finds from the 7th to 3rd centuries BC BC could be assigned to local or immigrant pastoral groups. The more recent finds from the 3rd to 1st century BC BC show clear influences from immigrants and travelers from China, the Graeco-Roman Empire, Parthia , Sogdia , the Kushan- Empire in the Sakian city-states on the southern edge of the Tarim- Basin and document suspected contacts and trade routes. The Greeks advanced to the east, the Chinese to the west, trade flourished and this ensured frequent contact between these ethnic groups. The beginnings of these contacts and the mutual influences can be read in the clothing.

Analyzes of the fibers and dyes revealed the use of the dyes madder red (alizarin), purpurin , rubiadin, quinizarin , indigo and indirubin . Locally growing madder was mainly used for red tones , indigo for the blue tones was probably imported. This not only proves the trade, but also represents one of the oldest scientifically proven uses of madder and indigo for dyeing textiles in the Xinjiang region.

Material analyzes and documentation of finds help in the development of sustainable methods and conservation and restoration measures for the physical preservation of cultural heritage in Xinjiang as well as the expansion of virtual availability worldwide.

National historical findings brought not only the investigation of the burial grounds, but also the discovery of residential buildings, Buddhist monasteries and temples, stupas, roads, craft workshops, irrigation systems, city walls as well as gardens and fields in the vicinity. By examining the equipment of individuals, their climatic environment and the texts in local languages, primary data of unprecedented quality and quantity could be obtained.

In addition to teaching material and scientific articles about the results, six dissertations are also to be produced as part of the project. Several museum exhibitions are planned. Starting in 2017, the effect of the clothes on the moving body is to be presented in an international fashion show.

literature

  • Academia Turfanica Xinjiang, Xinjiang Institute of Cultural Relics and Archeology, Excavation on the Yanghai Cemetery in Shanshan (Piqan) County, Xinjiang. Kaogu Xuebao 2011, 1: 99-150.
  • Bunker EC, The cemetery at Shanpula, Xinjiang. Simple burials, complex textiles. In: Keller D., Schorta R. (ed.), Fabulous creatures from the desert sands. Central Asian woolen textiles from the second century BC to the second century AD (Riggisbergerberichte 10). Riggisberg: Abegg Foundation 2001: 15–45.
  • CACH 2009, Zhongguo wen hua yi chan yan jiu yuan [Chinese Academy of Cultural Heritage], Tian yi you feng - Zhongguo gu dai fang zhi pin bao hu xiu fu lun wen ji [Divine robes with stitching - Collection of essays on conservation and restoration of ancient textiles of China]. Beijing 2009.
  • Gong YW, Yang YM, Ferguson DK, Tao DW, Li WY, Wang CS, Lü EG, Jiang HG, Investigation of ancient noodles, cakes, and millet at the Subeixi Site, Xinjiang, China. Journal of Archaeological Science 2011, 38: 470-479.
  • Anthony François Paulus Hulsewé, China in Central Asia: The early stage: 125 BC- AD 23. An annotated translation of chapters 61 and 96 of the History of the Former Han dynasty, with an introduction by Michael Loewe . Leiden 1979.
  • Li WY, Yingpan 95BYYM15 hao mu chu tu zhi wu, fu shi de yan jiu yu bao hu [Research and conservation of excavated textiles and clothing from grave 95BYYM15, Yingpan]. In: Tulufan xue yan jiu [Turfanological Studies] 2006, 1: 84–95.
  • Liu J., Guo D., Zhou Y., Wu ZY, Li WY, Zhao F., Zheng XM, Identification of ancient textiles from Yingpan, Xinjiang, by multiple analytical techniques. Journal of Archaeological Science 2011, 38: 1763-1770.
  • Schorta R., A group of Central Asian woolen textiles in the Abegg Foundation collection. In: Keller D., Schorta R. (ed.), Fabulous creatures from the desert sands. Central Asian woolen textiles from the second century BC to the second century AD (Riggisbergerberichte 10). Riggisberg: Abegg Foundation 2001: 79–114.
  • Stauffer A., ​​Textile finds from Xinjiang - production and culture transfer along the trade routes on the Taklamakan. In: Wieczorek A., Lind Ch., Origins of the Silk Road: sensational new finds from Xinjiang, China. Stuttgart 2007: 73-86.
  • Wagner M., Wang B., Tarasov P., Westh-Hansen SM, Völling E., Heller J., The ornamental trousers from Sampula (Xinjiang, China): their origins and biography. Antiquity 2009, 83: 1065-1075.
  • Wang BH, The ancient corpses of Xinjiang. Urumqi 1999.
  • Wang B., Wang MF, Zagunluke mao xiu [wool textiles from Zaghunluq]. Wenbo 2010, 3: 77-85.
  • Wang B., Xiao XY, A general introduction to the ancient tombs at Shanpula, Xinjiang, China. In: Keller D., Schorta R. (ed.), Fabulous creatures from the desert sands. Central Asian woolen textiles from the second century BC to the second century AD (Riggisbergerberichte 10). Riggisberg: Abegg Foundation 2001: 47–78.
  • Zhao F., Sichou zhi lu: yi shu yu sheng huo [Silk Road: Arts and Life]. Shanghai 2007.
  • Zhong Ri., Gong tong Niya yi ji xue shu kao cha dui [The Sino-Japanese Joint Research of the Niya Site], Zhong Ri gong tong Niya yi ji xue shu diao cha bao gao shu [The Sino-Japanese Joint Research of the Niya Site - Scientific report]. Urumqi 1999.

Web links

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ a b c d e f g Bridging Eurasia ( Memento of the original from April 15, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. November 2014, accessed April 9, 2015 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / bridging-eurasia.org
  2. ↑ a b c d e Development of the Silk Road Fashion Project ( Memento of the original from April 14, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , accessed April 9, 2015 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.china.diplo.de
  3. ↑ a b c Oldest pants in the world discovered , article on scinexx.de from June 4, 2014
  4. ↑ a b Beginning of the Silk Road Fashion Project ( Memento of the original from April 14, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link has been inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , Representations of the Federal Republic of Germany in the People's Republic of China, accessed on April 9, 2015 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.china.diplo.de
  5. ↑ Kerstin Britta Henning: Comparison of cultures is also comparison of identity ( memento of the original from April 14, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link has been inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. , accessed April 9, 2015 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.china.diplo.de
  6. ↑ a b c The “Silk Road Fashion” project decodes the language of clothes ( memento of the original from April 7, 2015 in the Internet Archive ) Info: The archive link was inserted automatically and has not yet been checked. Please check the original and archive link according to the instructions and then remove this notice. Article dated February 20, 2015, accessed April 9, 2015 @1@ 2Template: Webachiv / IABot / www.bmbf.de
  7. ↑ a b c e research reports of the DAI 2014, fascicle 1 , accessed on April 9, 2015
  8. ↑ Annemarie Kramell, Xiao Li u. a .: Dyes of late Bronze Age textile clothes and accessories from the Yanghai archaeological site, Turfan, China: Determination of the fibers, color analysis and dating. In: Quaternary International. 348, 2014, p. 214, doi : 10.1016 / j.quaint.2014.05.012 .