Tariq al-Wad

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The Tariq al-Wad , Arabic طريق الواد, DMG ṭarīq al-wād  'Valley Way', Hebrew רחוב הגיא rechov ha gai , German 'valley road' is a street in the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Old City of Jerusalem .

Road sign

Names

Both the Arabic and the Hebrew name means valley path or valley road: Arabic طريق, DMG ṭarīq  'way, road' or al-wād  /الواد / 'The valley', Hebrew רחוב rechov , German 'street' orהגיא ha gai , German for 'the valley' . Since the street is in the Muslim quarter of Jerusalem , the Arabic name al-Wad will be used in the following.

The name Tyropöon Valley comes from the Greek: Φάραγγι των τυροποιων = gorge of the cheese makers. This name is used by Flavius ​​Josephus . Its origin is derived from ga-ha-asschpot = "valley of dung", which leads to the dung gate , i.e. a sewer. This name was embellished to ge-ha-schefot = "valley of cheese" and then translated into Greek. In addition, the name tyropoion echoes the Hebrew expressions ge-ha-toref (Aramaic: hilleta de-turpa) = valley of nakedness and the outflow of all shamefulness = col turpot. Josephus tried to give the name a positive sound, but it contained an impossibility in terms of content. In ancient times, cheese was made where the milk came from, namely by the herd and not in the city.

geography

The al-Wad begins at the Damascus Gate and ends at the northern entrance to the forecourt of the Western Wall . It is about 670 meters long. Starting from the Damascus Gate, the al-Wad initially runs in a south-easterly direction. After about 400 meters you will cross a road running in an east-west direction. The western branch of this street is called at-Takiyyah Ascent, in Arabic عقبة التكية ʿAqbat at-Takiyya  'obstacle', Hebrew מעלות המדרשת Ma'alot ha-Midrasha , German for the rise of the schools . The eastern branch is called Ala'-ad-Din Street in Arabic,طريق علاء الدين / ṭarīq ʿAlāʾ ad-Dīn  / 'Ala-ad-Din-Weg', the Hebrew name remains the same. At this point the al-Wad bends slightly and now runs almost directly to the south at a distance of 110 meters parallel to the western wall of the Temple Mount. After another 270 meters, it leads to the forecourt of the Western Wall.

If you look south from the Damascus Gate along al-Wad, you can see that it runs slightly downhill on a valley floor. All that remains of the original Tyropoon Valley is a shallow depression that slopes slightly to the south. The streets that flow into al-Wad from the east and west lead, mostly with flat steps, gently uphill on both sides.

al-Wad in the Tyropoeon Valley

history

Time until the destruction of Jerusalem in 70

Jerusalem first arose on the two hills east and west of the Tyropoon Valley. The eastern hills were 770 to 744 meters (Temple Mount) high from north to south. The western hills were 777 to 789 meters high from north to south. Over time, the Tyropöon Valley was filled with more and more rubble, so that only a shallow hollow remained. Today's surface is about 10 to 20 meters higher than in Roman times. Even in David's time there were houses in the Tyropoon. However, this settlement was characterized by narrow, winding streets. The Tyropöon Valley was a typical urban valley that divided the city into a western and an eastern part. It was simply referred to as "The Valley", which is reflected in today's names.

At 21 BC When the Herodian Temple was built, the water flowed through the Tyropoon via an underground sewer system. A large access road ran over this through the valley.

Aelia Capitolina

Roman rule from 70 until the Arab conquest in 638

After the destruction of Jerusalem by Titus in the year 70, the Roman Emperor Hadrian founded the Roman colony Aelia Capitolina in this place around the year 130 . According to the urban planning scheme common to the Romans, a cardo maximus running in north-south direction and a decumanus running in east-west direction were laid out . Cardo and Decumanus crossed in the city center. The course of the Cardo is reflected in today's streets Suq Chan ez-Zeit , Triple Souq, Rechov Chabad, the course of Decumanus in the streets Tariq Bab as-Silsila , David Street.

Madabakarte, in the middle the Cardo, above the Cardo Secundus, today: al-Wad

In addition, a Cardo Secundus, a second Cardo, was put on, which led on the Herodian Road through the valley to the Temple Mount. This second cardo has been preserved in today's street al-Wad. On the mosaic map of Madaba from the 6th century, the Cardo Secundus is depicted (the upper white line with columns above). On the map of Madaba you can see that the east side of the Cardo Secundus was decorated with a continuous row of columns. During this Roman period, the main structures were in the area of ​​the Cardo and the Decumanus. At Cardo Secundus there were only a few bathhouses and the Hagia Sophia or Pilate Church.

From 638 to the 18th century

After the conquest of Jerusalem in 638 by the Arabs , the Dome of the Rock and the Al-Aqsa Mosque were built on the Temple Mount, which was now called Haram . This gave the al-Wad street a great deal of importance. Short side streets branched off from it to the east, leading to the entrance gates of the Haram and thus to the important Islamic shrines.

During the crusader era , al-Wad lost its importance again, as the Christian shrines were in the west of the city. The al-Wad was used more by artisans and traders at that time. The Gerbertor, the Kürschnergasse, the cattle market and the slaughterhouses were close by.

The Mamluk period began in the 13th century. Now the entire quarter around al-Wad was flourishing in Islam. Numerous pilgrim hostels, teaching houses, mausoleums, market halls, water systems and entrances to the haram were built on the al-Wad. At that time the Herodian Street was already about 10 meters below the surface and the new buildings were almost level with the Haram.

During the Ottoman period, the quarter was not changed much. Two hospices, two teaching houses, a mosque, a khan and a public kitchen were added. Suleiman built a new water supply with magnificent fountains, but this did not significantly change the overall appearance of the district.

View of the Wittenberg house from the south

19th century until today

In the 19th century the later Wittenberg house on the al-Wad was a Mediterranean hotel, a social and cultural meeting place. One of his guests was Mark Twain when he visited Jerusalem in 1867.

The Wittenberg house was bought by the Jew Mosche Wittenberg in the 19th century. It served as a residence for Jews, a library and a synagogue. Nehamia Rabin and Rosa Cohen, the parents of Jitzchak Rabin , met in the Wittenberg house . In 1948 the Wittenberg House was taken over by the Jordanian government as the property of the enemy. In 1986 it came into the possession of Ateret Kohanim . Now it was inhabited again by Jews. 10 Jewish families live in the Wittenberg house. 1000 Jews, half of them students of the yeshiva, live in the Muslim quarter. In 1987 Ariel Scharon bought an apartment in the Wittenberg house. Sharon later sold this apartment to the religious seminary.

Religious tensions are exacerbated by various temple-mount movements . Initially, pious Jews were prohibited from entering the Temple Mount. Since 2005 there have been various movements of devout Jews who visit the Temple Mount daily to pray. This contributes to the concern of the Palestinians , who view the Temple Mount as a kind of last refuge, granting them freedom, rights and dignity. Some temple-mount movements organize parades in which participants shout slogans such as: “May the Temple be built, built, built; may the mosque burn, burn, burn. " (German: may the temple be built, may the mosque burn.)

After 1967, several Jewish teaching houses, synagogues and bookshops were set up on and around al-Wad.

In 2008, Beit Roi was founded in al-Wad as a new Jewish residence. It was financed by the US businessman Irving Moskowitz.

Violence in the al-Wad

Religious Jews and Muslims meet in al-Wad every day and rush to their respective shrines. Although the al-Wad and its surroundings are closely guarded, there were repeated attacks by Muslims on Jews, sometimes with fatal results.

  • On April 5, 1920, Muslims stabbed Michael Gross on the al-Wad. Avraham Shmuel Haramati, who lived nearby, came to the rescue of Michael Gross and was also murdered.
  • In September and October 2015, al-Wad was the site of several knife attacks by Muslims on Jews. A 19-year-old Muslim from East Jerusalem stabbed a 15-year-old Jew near the Damascus Gate.
  • On October 3, 2015, Aharon Bennett and Nehemia Lavi were stabbed to death in al-Wad. Lavi was stabbed to death trying to help Bennett. In the following days, despite heightened security measures, there were four more knife attacks by Palestinians on Jews.

Buildings and sights in the area of ​​al-Wad

Damascus Gate to Via Dolorosa

If you enter Jerusalem's old town through the Damascus Gate, you come to a small square on which flat steps lead gently downhill. At the end of this square, 60 meters further south, two streets go off at an acute angle. The street on the right is the former Cardo maximus, today: Suq Chan ez time. It leads south. The street on the left is the former Cardo secundus, now al-Wad. It leads to the southeast.

At the fork in the road is the Ottoman fountain Sabil asch-Shurbadschi Arabic سبيل الشوربجي sabil asch-Shurbadschi  'Fountain of Shurbija', donated in 1685. It was converted into the small Shurbadschi mosque in 1969 Arabic مسجد الشوربجي Masjid asch-Shurbadschi  'Mosque of Shurbija'.

There is a souq in al-Wad, where the houses are partly built across the street and give the street a tunnel-like character.

After another 60 meters you can see a two-story house built across the al-Wad, on which the Israeli flag flies. This is the Wittenberg house. In the tunnel that is under this house, Ma'ale ha-Tut Street goes west in Hebrew מעלה התות Ma'ale ha-Tut , German for 'berry stairs' . It connects the al-Wad with the Suq Chan ez period. At the southern exit of the tunnel, the Al Asilah Ascent branches off in Arabic عقبة الاصيلة ʿAqbat al-Asila to the east. If you look back towards Damascus Gate from here, you have a good view of the Wittenberg House with a large menorah on the roof and a long Israeli flag on the front. On Al Asilah street you can go around the Austrian Hospice, a path that leads over many stairs through a Palestinian residential area.

Coming from the east, the Via Dolorosa joins 240 meters southeast of the Damascus Gate and runs for 70 meters with the 3rd to 5th stations of the cross on the al-Wad. Then it branches off to the west.

The Austrian Hospice is located on the northeast corner of the confluence . The address is Via Dolorosa No. 37. The property extends 60 meters along al-Wad to the corner of Via Dolorosa and then 70 meters along Via Dolorosa. From the street you can only see a massive wall about 5 to 7 meters high. Just on the corner, a few steps lead up to a small door in the wall. Here you can ring the bell and ask for admission.

The opposite southeast corner of the confluence is occupied by the Armenian Catholic Patriarchate . The 3rd station of the Way of the Cross is located here. Right next to it, you can go through an archway with a mostly open door across a courtyard to the Church of Our Lady of Sorrows , where the 4th station of the Cross is located and where an eternal adoration is held. The crypt of this church dates from the Crusader period and contains a mosaic from the 4th to 6th centuries.

A few meters further the Via Dolorosa branches off to the west. The 5th station of the cross is located on the southwest corner of the junction.

Via Dolorosa to Aqbat at-Takija

This is where the Aijubid , Mamluk and Ottoman quarters already mentioned in the History section begin , which nestles close to the Temple Mount on the north and west sides.

Aqbat at-Takija (Ma'alot ha-Midrasha Street) flows from the west.

In the Aqbat at-Takija there is a three-portal palace, built in 1388, house no. 32. Opposite a vaulted mausoleum built in 1398, the facade is very finely designed, next to house no. 31. It was built for Lady Tunschuq, who came from the Kurdish royal family.

To the east there is a soup kitchen for poor pilgrims, a Sufi monastery and a caravanserai with stables. This charity is called Haseki-Sultan-Imaret and was founded by Suleiman's favorite wife, Haseki Sultan , in 1552. An Islamic high school for Arab orphans has been set up in this building complex since 2015. In his courtyard is the Ottoman fountain Sabil Haseki Sultan , built in 1552 .

Near the southwest corner of the intersection is a school building with a cone at the top. It was built in 1540 by Amir Bairam Jawish. There are layers of lead between red and beige stones. This is why the building is also called the “University of Lead”.

The Aqbat at-Takija continues on the east side of the al-Wad to the east. It is called Ma'alot ha-Midrasha or Ala e-Din Street and is also called "Tariq Bab an-Nazir" and "Tariq Bab al-Habs". It leads to the council gate . This was also called “Bab an-Nazir” and “Bab al-Habs”. "Bab an-Nazir" means gate of the inspector and "Bab al-Habs" means gate of the prison. In this alley were buildings that belonged to the overseers of the haram and served as prisons.

Sabil an-Nazir

A fountain (Sabil) from Suleiman's time with winding columns and an arch decorated with rosettes and garlands is located at the northeast corner of the confluence of Tariq Bab an-Nazir with al-Wad. He is named Sabil an-Nazir and Sabil al-Haram . It was built in 1537 .

On the south side of the Tariq Bab an-Nazir is the Ribat al-Mansuri, an Aijubid pilgrims' hospice. On its north side stands the palace of the superintendent of the two haram and the Ottoman governor. To the east of it another pilgrims' hospice, the Ribat des Ala ad-Din. It was built in 1267.

Ala ad-Din was the chief overseer of the Haram in the Aijubid period. He went blind and was venerated as a sheikh and saint since the 16th century.

The Bab an-Nazir was built in its current form with the semicircular arch in the 13th century. Originally it probably goes back to the Umayyad times. Its gate chamber houses the entrance to the Waqf .

Aqbat at-Takija to Tariq Bab al-Hadid

The next street to the east is Tariq Bab al-Hadid Arabic طريق باب الحديد Tariq Bab al-Hadid  'Way of the Iron Gate', Hebrew שער הברזל Scha'ar ha-Barsel , German 'iron gate' . It is very narrow and slowly climbs with flat steps to the Bab al-Hadid (Gate of Iron). It is partly built over by the neighboring houses, so that it leads under them like a narrow, dark tunnel.

On its north side is the Department of Islamic Archeology. Originally this house was the Madrasa and Ribat Jawharija, built in 1440. To the east of it is the Ribat al-Amir Kurt al-Mansuri, built in 1293.

The Bab al-Hadid closes the street to the east. It is guarded by Israeli soldiers who only allow Muslims to enter the Temple Mount. The Bab al-Hadid was first mentioned by al-Umari in 1345, but probably goes back to pre-Mameluk times.

If you go to the left between Bab al-Hadid and Ribat al-Amir Kurt al-Mansuri, you come to a courtyard that is bordered to the east by a piece of the temple wall. This piece of temple wall becomes the Little Wailing Wall ( Hebrew הכותל הקטן ha-kotel ha-katan ) called. Especially in the evenings of festive days, e.g. For example, during the Feast of Tabernacles , Hasidic families can be seen holding religious dances and ceremonies. The women and children stand around on the edge and watch while the men in the middle dance and sing. Stronger units of Israeli soldiers guard the whole thing.

On the south side of the Tariq Bab al-Hadid there are three Mameluk houses of teaching. They bear the names of high officials Cairo sultans. The Madrasa Arghunija was built in 1358. In the years 1354-1380 was the Madrasa Chatunija and in the years 1480 to 1481, the Madrasa Muzhirija.

Sabil Al-Wad

Tariq Bab al-Hadid to square in front of the Western Wall

The Suq al-Qattanin , the alley of the cotton traders , branches off to the east and leads to the Bab al-Qattanim . This alley forms a 95 meter long market hall with 30 vaults. There are apartments above the shops on both sides of the alley. There are also two large bathhouses in the alley, fed by ancient water pipes. These were built according to the building inscriptions on the gate wings in the years 1335 to 1336 by the Syrian governor Saif ad-Din Tankiz. At the beginning of the alley on the south side is the entrance to Al-Quds University.

The alley was planned as the center of business life in the Mamluk city. At the same time, it should form the financial basis for other foundations of the builder. Its origins date back to the time of the Crusaders, as can be seen from the joint between the 15th and 16th yoke, the coarse masonry of the lower stone layers and the flat gable arches. Tankiz took over the old foundations, built residential floors on them and carried them on to the temple wall.

The alley first leads east to Bab al-Qattanim and then continues south along the west side of the Temple Mount. The Bab al-Qattanim is the most magnificent of the western gates, but can only be viewed from the Temple Mount as it is locked.

A few meters south of the confluence with the Cotton Merchants' Alley, al-Khalidija Street flows from the west . A church from the time of the Crusaders was rediscovered at the confluence in 1972. This church was identified as St. Johannes Evangelista Church based on a document from 1186 (initially erroneously as St. Julian Church).

To the south of the mouth of al-Khalidija Street, al-Wad runs under a broad vault. Directly south of the vault on the east side of al-Wad is another Ottoman fountain from the time of Suleiman. This fountain is named Sabil Suq al-Qattanim and Sabil al-Wad . It was built in 1536.

Tariq Bab as-Silsila , street of the chain gate , leads across the al-Wad on a bridge . Josephus writes that the old and the first wall were at this point and that a bridge was built here in Hasmonean and Herodic times, which led from the upper city through a double gate to the temple square.

The bridge and gate were destroyed in the 1st Jewish War and rebuilt in the Umayyad times. The Tariq Bab as-Silsila leads over this bridge to Bab as-Silsila , chain gate, and to Bab al-Sakina , gate of the indwelling of God.

The al-Wad leads under these bridge buildings in the form of a tunnel through to the square in front of the Western Wall. The original Roman road from the 2nd to 6th centuries can be viewed through shafts in this tunnel.

See also

literature

  • Max Küchler : Jerusalem: A manual and study travel guide to the Holy City (Places and Landscapes of the Bible, Vol. IV, 2) , Publisher: Vandenhoeck & Ruprecht; Edition: 2nd, completely revised edition. (January 22, 2014), ISBN 978-3-525-50173-3

Web links

Commons : Tariq al-Wad  - collection of images, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. a b c Max Küchler: Jerusalem: A manual and study travel guide to the Holy City (Places and Landscapes of the Bible, Vol. IV, 2) , Publisher: Vandenhoeck & Ruprecht; Edition: 2nd, completely revised edition. (January 22, 2014), ISBN 978-3-525-50173-3 , pp. 137, 354, 355, 363, 459, 534-537
  2. ^ Immanuel Benzinger: Hebrew Archeology , Academic Publishing Bookstore by JCB Mohr, Freiburg i. B. and Leipzig 1894, pp. 40-50
  3. ^ A b Nadav Shragai, Haaretz correspondent: Mark Twain and Ariel Sharon Shared the Same Roof in Jerusalem. In: Haaretz. July 14, 2008, accessed January 27, 2019 .
  4. ^ David Mark: Beit Wittenberg is the Key to Jerusalem. In: Israel Rising. October 8, 2015, accessed January 27, 2019 .
  5. a b c d e Nir Hasson: The Street That Encapsulates Jerusalem. In: Haaretz. November 11, 2015, accessed January 27, 2019 .
  6. ^ A b Yonathan Mizrachi: Why one Jerusalem street has seen so many stabbings. In: +972 Magazine . October 11, 2015, accessed January 27, 2019 .
  7. The "Imaret Haseki Sultan" in Jerusalem at theologische-links.de. Retrieved May 23, 2020.
  8. Ottoman Sabils of Jerusalem at drexel.edu. Retrieved May 12, 2020.