À la zingara

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Preparation of gypsy schnitzel

With À La Zingara (French; of zingara , Italian "for gypsy ", à la cuisine linguistically ) to Gypsy (formerly also by gypsies-type ), gypsy style or Tzigane is one since the 19th century common set of classic cuisine in Preparation of food called. As with other traditional kitchen-language garnishes, not only the side dish or sauce of a dish, but also the type of preparation and the naming are specified.

The actual culinary tradition of the Sinti and Roma is in no way depicted.

Preparation according to a classic recipe

The garnish is used in the preparation of dishes from braised or roasted veal and poultry . Typical meats are veal chop , veal brain and beef fillet . For this, a is tomatierte demi-glace flavored with tarragon and in butter angeschwitzten Julienne (stripe) of salted tongue , boiled ham , mushrooms and truffles mixed. The meat can be cooked in it or served as a side dish or sauce. Another variant also uses sweet peppers , onions and pickles .

Different colored egg sticks are used for the gypsy style poultry broth .

The garnish can also be used with other meat dishes with reference to the term "gypsy", such as gypsy goulash , gypsy roast and gypsy schnitzel . Another dish, also derived from the garnish, is the gypsy sauce ( sauce zingara ), in which peppers are used. This is already mentioned in Auguste Escoffier's Guide culinaire in 1903 as a gypsy sauce ( Côte de veau Zingara or Zingara sauce ).

origin

Singer in the opera role of the Spanish gypsy Carmen 1884

In the classic variant, dishes à la zingara were already part of the upscale restaurant and hotel kitchen in the 19th century. It is already included in The Modern Cook from 1858 and in the German-American illustrated cookbook from 1888.

Anna von Kuhlmann-Redwitz 'Tafelfreuden von 1910, however, cites Zingara à la Zingara in German in the manner of (Spanish) gypsies , the colorful decoration with slices of red tongue and truffles then refers to the costumes of gypsy girls, as they became popular with the opera Carmen . Corresponding Grill wu as the rden regional cuisine of the Austro-Hungarian Empire attributed. In the Hungary stereotype, which emerged at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century, csárdás , “gypsies” and peppers are associated with a peculiar “gypsy romanticism”. Since the beginning of the 20th century, these have been the basis for romantically charged compounds (cf. also Gypsy blood , Gypsy baron, etc.), just as the term was increasingly given racist connotations.

The naming later also rubbed off on dishes that are offered under the classic name, but now partially or no longer correspond to the original preparation. Simplified versions were suggested as early as 1927 in the famous French cookbook La bonne Cuisine de Madame E. Saint-Ange . Likewise in Edouard de Pomiane's Cuisine en dix minutes, ou l'Adaptation au rythme moderne from 1931 (German 1935).

In Germany, the original high-class preparation methods without sweet peppers compared to the simple gypsy schnitzel in the takeaways are hardly known. However, the sauce served with the simple gypsy schnitzel is basically the same as the gypsy sauce containing sweet peppers derived from the garnish .

The traditional garnish is much more common in France and Italy. Dirk Gabler , on the other hand, tried the gastronomy journalist Wolfram Siebeck , according to which "Gypsy" dishes could be assigned to "the popular ethnic wave". The term is not protected so that “every stupid recipe can be described as a gypsy variant”. In addition, as he quotes Siebeck, “the recipes ... are as similar to the eating habits of the gypsies as Winnetou and the Apaches ”. In his blog, Siebeck himself draws on euphemisms such as the alleged ban on the word gypsy in polemical mania. According to this, not only would the Austrian Mohr in a shirt result in various discussions among confectioners, political correctness had settled over the terms like a shower of ash. "What used to appear colorful and lively plastered suddenly had to wear plaster legs with the imprint: Contains well-intentioned intentions, is appetite-suppressing and can cause depression" ( Wolfram Siebeck ).

Concept and conceptual criticism

French poster for the operetta Der Zigeunerbaron

The term "Gypsy", which forms part of the name, is increasingly being rejected in German usage. The term gypsy per se is a foreign name, the self-name is “rom / romni”, plural “Roma” (“man / woman”), or “manuś” (“human”), in contrast to the “gadsche” (“ non-Roma, stranger ”). It is occasionally used as a self-designation, but is subject to criticism as discrimination with negative connotations. A positive use as a Geusen word has not caught on. From a linguistic perspective, a distinction is made between the meanwhile rejected individual term and the compositions that are still in use (in addition to gypsy schnitzel, the technical term gypsy language ). In 2003, the dictionary of proper names also differentiates between the use of the term gypsy, which was already established in the 16th century, as a swear word, a differentiated romanticizing glorification of the way of life and an almost completely established use of various word combinations in gastronomy.

The word combinations used in gastronomy have now been questioned more often. In 2013, for example, the term gypsy sauce was criticized in the German-speaking area by representatives of Sinti and Roma associations as discriminatory (see antiziganism ). An association called on manufacturers of gypsy sauces to rename them with a legal brief. Other associations of the Sinti and Roma, however, distanced themselves from such demands and described them as outrageous or nonsensical. In 2013 in Linz, posters and collages by Romni Marika Schmiedt also gave rise to a minor art scandal and controversy under the motto Why do you want to eat us . a. with the Hungarian embassy and Roma representatives.

While a term like chocolate kiss has already replaced the former negro kiss , this is still not the case with the word combinations with 'gypsy'. The sociological view, for example by the sociologist Wulf D. Hund, sees compositions such as "Gypsy schnitzel" or "Gypsy sauce" not only an unproven "taste of freedom" in the sense of gypsy romanticism, but also a "taste of discrimination".

Against this background, the alternative name "Paprikaschnitzel" was suggested for the simple recipe variants, but this does not correspond to the traditional, kitchen-related term paprika schnitzel , which is prepared with spiced paprika . The term is still used in professional gastronomy as well as in industrial food production (“Gypsy sauce”, “Gypsy stew”). Likewise, romantic racism and gypsy stereotypes are by no means called into question in popular musical theater pieces such as Carmen or the Gypsy Baron . The different perceptions are also reflected in the fact that antigypsyism has still not been recognized as an independent form of racism.

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Large restaurant cookbook: a manual and reference book for modern restaurant cuisine, published by the International Association of Chefs, 1910, p. 358
  2. ↑ a b c See Lemma Zigeunerart. In: Lexicon editorship of the FA Brockhaus publishing house (ed.): Der Brockhaus. Culinary arts. International dishes, ingredients, kitchen technology, methods of preparation. Brockhaus, Leipzig a. a. 2008, ISBN 978-3-7653-3281-4 , p. 594. Note: The Brockhaus editorial team uses the Tzigane spelling .
  3. ↑ The great Larousse Gastronomique. The standard work for kitchen, culinary art, food culture. 4000 entries, 1700 photos, 2500 recipes. Christian Verlag, Munich 2009, ISBN 978-3-88472-900-7 , p. 943. Note: The editorial staff of Larousse uses the spelling à la zingara .
  4. ↑ La cuisine gitane ou L'art de mettre en appétit ses invités / Esmeralda Romanez , 1993.
  5. ↑ a b c Herb and Hedgehog. In: The Standard. September 30, 2010.
  6. ↑ Erhard Gorys : The new kitchen dictionary. From Aachener Printen to intermediate ribs. 7th, completely revised and expanded edition. dtv, Munich 2001, ISBN 3-423-36245-6 .
  7. ↑ Richard Hering, F. Jürgen Herrmann (ed.): Herings Lexicon of the Kitchen . Internationally recognized reference work for modern and classic cuisine. 24th, expanded edition. Pfanneberg, Haan-Gruiten 2009, ISBN 978-3-8057-0587-5 .
  8. ↑ Udo Pini : The Gourmet Handbook . hf ullmann, Potsdam 2011, ISBN 978-3-8331-4302-1 , p. 1027.
  9. ^ English edition: A. Escoffier: A Guide to Modern Cookery . William Heinemann, London 1907, p. 421 (recipe 1261).
  10. ^ Charles Hellstern: German-American Illustrated Cookbook, E. Steiger, 1888
  11. ↑ Charles Elme Francatelli, The Modern Cook Richard Bentley, 1858
  12. ↑ Anna Von Kuhlmann-Redwitz Tafelfreuden from 1910
  13. ^ Edward Renold, David Foskett, John Fuller: Chef's Compendium of Professional Recipes, Routledge, 2012
  14. ↑ Gabriella Schubert : Hungary Pictures. Backgrounds. Myths. In: Zeitschrift für Balkanologie, Vol. 47, No. 2 (2011) pp. 202–217, here p. 212
  15. ↑ Winter Time: Memoirs of a German Sinto who Survived Auschwitz Walter Stanoski Winter, Struan Robertson, Univ. of Hertfordshire Press, 2004, p. 152 ff
  16. ↑ Herings Lexicon of the Kitchen . Fachbuchverlag Pfannenberg, Haan-Gruiten, 23rd edition. 2001, ISBN 3-8057-0470-4 .
  17. ↑ Erhard Gorys : The new kitchen dictionary . dtv, Munich 1994-2002, ISBN 3-423-36245-6 .
  18. ^ A b E. Saint-Ange (pseudonym of Marie Ébrard): La bonne cuisine de Mme. E. Saint-Ange. Huit cents recettes et cinq cents menus. Larousse, Paris 1927, p. 153 (French).
  19. ↑ Édouard de Pomiane:  La Cuisine en dix minutes, ou l'Adaptation au rythme moderne . Paul-Martial, Paris 1931, new edition 2015
  20. ↑ a b c Dirk Gabler: The taste of freedom. From roast hedgehog to gypsy schnitzel. In: Wulf D. Hund (Ed.): Zigeunerbilder. Pattern of racist ideology. DISS, Duisburg 2000, pp. 124-136, here: pp. 125f.
  21. ↑ a b THE MOOR IN THE HEAD , April 7, 2012, blog entry by Wolfram Siebeck at wo-isst-siebeck.de
  22. ↑ German Universal Dictionary 2006: 1978, quoted by Matthias Wermke: Women and other minorities: Political correctness as a programmatic requirement for lexicography in Lech Zieliński, Klaus-Dieter Ludwig, Ryszard Lipczuk: German and Polish lexicography after 1945 in the field of tension in cultural history, Peter Lang , 2011
  23. ^ Rudolf Köster: Proper names in the German vocabulary: Ein Lexikon, Walter de Gruyter, 2003, p. 194
  24. ↑ Felicitas Kock: Trouble with gypsy sauce. Not just a matter of taste . In: Sueddeutsche.de. August 14, 2013. Retrieved August 16, 2013.
  25. ↑ Hanover removes gypsy schnitzel from the menus. In: derstandard.at . October 9, 2013, accessed January 12, 2017 .
  26. ↑ Controversy over the designation: Sinti and Roma demand end for "Gypsy schnitzel". In: Stern . October 9, 2013. Retrieved October 14, 2013.
  27. ^ Roms d'Europe: le cas autrichien, Jérôme Segal 2014
  28. ↑ Hitler and the “half moon Turkish salami” made in Austria - HírTV close to the government about the “anti-Magyar” exhibition in Linz. In: Pusztaranger. Retrieved September 19, 2015 .
  29. ↑ Christoph Hamann: "Zigeunerschnitzel" and "Zigeunerstuben". The new online publication “German Sinti and Roma” for teaching. In: Senate Department for Education, Science and Research (Hrsg.): Fachbrief Intercultural Education and Upbringing. No. 13 Nov 2011, p. 9.
  30. ↑ Dirk Gabler: The taste of freedom. From roast hedgehog to gypsy schnitzel. In: Wulf D. Hund (Ed.): Zigeunerbilder. Pattern of racist ideology. DISS, Duisburg 2000, pp. 124-136, here: p. 136.
  31. ↑ So z. B .: Petra Laible: Chocolate kisses and paprika schnitzel taste better. In: Südwestpresse. January 25, 2013, see: [1] .
  32. ↑ Maria Hofmann, Helmut Lydtin: Bavarian cookbook. 55th edition. Birken-Verlag, Planegg 1998, ISBN 3-920105-03-6 .
  33. ^ Rudolf Köster: Proper names in the German vocabulary. A lexicon. Walter de Gruyter, Berlin 2003, p. 194.
  34. ^ Wulf D. Hund: Romantic racism. On the function of the gypsy stereotype. (Pp. 9-30); Sören Niemann: A nomadic culture of freedom. From the dream of tsiganology. (Pp. 31–50), both in Gypsy Pictures - Patterns of Racist Ideology.
  35. ↑ Markus End: Expert opinion on Antiziganism, on the state of research and counter-strategies. ( Memento of October 4, 2013 in the Internet Archive ) (PDF; 592 kB), published by RomnoKher - House for Culture, Education and Research on Antiziganism, December 2012.