Aiguille de Bionnassay
| Aiguille de Bionnassay | ||
|---|---|---|
 Aiguille de Bionnassay from the east |
||
| height | 4052 m | |
| location | Haute-Savoie ( France ) / Aosta ( Italy ) | |
| Mountains | Mont Blanc massif , Savoy Alps , Western Alps | |
| Dominance | 1.8 km → Dôme du Goûter | |
| Notch height | 164 m ↓ Col de Bionnassay | |
| Coordinates | 45 ° 50 '9 " N , 6 ° 49' 5" E | |
|
||
| First ascent | July 28, 1865 , by Michel Payot, Jean-Pierre Cachat, EN Buxton, FC Grove and RJS Macdonald | |
The Aiguille de Bionnassay is a 4052 meter high mountain in the Mont Blanc massif in the Savoy Alps . The state border between France ( Haute-Savoie ) and Italy ( Aosta province ) runs across the summit .
Location and geography
The Aiguille de Bionnassay is just under four kilometers west of Mont Blanc . The direct eastern neighbor is the Dôme du Goûter , with which it is connected via the 3888 m high Col de Bionnassay. This means that their notch height is around 160 meters.
The mountain is surrounded by glaciers on all sides . To the north, the summit breaks off into an impressive ice wall, interrupted by a rock bar, onto the Glacier de Bionnassay. To the south lies the Ghiacciaio de Bionnassay on Italian soil, which merges into the Ghiacciaio del Miage . The Ghiacciaio del Miage is the longest glacier in Italy at over ten kilometers and extends into the Val Veny . To the southeast lies the Ghiacciaio del Dôme, which also flows into the Ghiacciaio del Miage. To the west, on French soil, are the Glacier du Miage and the Dômes de Miage of the same name .
Routes to the summit
The Aiguille de Bionnassay can be climbed from both Italy and France. Possible valley locations are Entrèves near Courmayeur on the Italian side and Les Houches near Chamonix on the French side .
From Italy
The easiest route to the summit is via the northeast ridge. The starting point is the Rifugio Francesco Gonella ( CAI ) at 3,071 m. From the hut the route leads over the ridge of the Auguilles Grises into the Col de Bionnassay. Up to this point the route is identical to the normal Italian route to Mont Blanc. From the Col you follow the partially overweighed firn ridge to the summit ( WS , II. Degree ).
Another way to climb from Italy is via the south ridge, which was first climbed in 1888. The base is the Refuge Durier ( CAF ) at 3349 m . The ridge offers places with climbing difficulties in III. Degree and is graded WS +.
The climbs on the Italian south side are considered lonely and rarely climbed, the summit to Mont Blanc is often crossed.
From France
The north-west flank, the route of the first to climb, is the normal route from the French side. The base is the Refuge de Tête Rousse at 3,167 meters. The ascent is a pure ice flank with a steepness of up to 55 °.
The most popular descent from the summit leads over the Dôme du Goûter and from there to the Refuge du Goûter at 3817 m.
First ascent
The Aiguille de Bionnassay was first climbed on July 28, 1865, by Michel Payot, Jean-Pierre Cachat, EN Buxton, Florence Crauford Grove and RJS Macdonald. The ascent took place over the north-west flank, which was difficult for the time, which is particularly remarkable, since significantly easier and less dangerous climbs were found later with the south ridge and north-east ridge.
Railway connection
In the 1930s, the French railway company PLM advertised the route of its subsidiary Chemin de Fer du Mont-Blanc and its branch from St. Gervais to Glacier de Bionnassay with a poster by the French painter Roger Broders .
Literature and map
- Hartmut Eberlein: Mont Blanc Group. Area guide for mountaineers and climbers. Written according to the guidelines of the UIAA. 10th edition. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2005, ISBN 3-7633-2414-3 .
- Institut Géographique National (IGN): Topographic map 1: 25,000, sheet 3630 OT, Chamonix Mont-Blanc .
Individual evidence
- ↑ Hartmut Eberlein: Mont Blanc Group. Area guide for mountaineers and climbers. Written according to the guidelines of the UIAA. 9th edition. Bergverlag Rother, Munich 2000, ISBN 3-7633-2414-3 , p. 81.
Web links
- Aiguille de Bionnassay at 4000m - the four-thousanders of the Alps