Beefsteak tartare

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Beefsteak tartare with egg yolk, capers and onions

Beefsteak Tatar ( English and French steak tartare ) or tartar (also chopped steak tartare ) is a ground meat dish of beef , the high quality of raw, crave-free and low-fat muscle meat such as tenderloin is prepared and is crushed finer than simple ground beef. A fat content of a maximum of 6% is customary in the market.

preparation

In Germany, the minced beef is usually salted and peppered, shaped in portions into flat balls and a depression is pressed in the middle, into which a raw egg yolk , finely chopped onions and anchovy fillets as well as capers and possibly parsley and diced cucumber are placed. The ingredients are then mixed directly on the plate. These are mixed pickles and brown bread served, possibly Worcestershire and Tabasco sauce and brandy .

Dishes similar to tartar are Mett ( minced meat ) made from seasoned raw pork , the so-called Filet Americain in Belgium and the Netherlands, which is already seasoned raw minced meat (often served with a sauce and on a baguette) as well as hackers made from salted herring or matjes , that too Matjestatar is called. Salmon tartare is made from gravlax or smoked salmon , but rather raw salmon.

In Italy, which is veal tartare Albese ( carne cruda all'albese ) very popular and from the Piedmontese hardly imagine of starters. Only very lean meat from the Fassone veal ( razza piemontese ) is used and minced with knives ( battuta al coltello ). It is usually only slightly seasoned with a little garlic, olive oil, salt, pepper and lemon, as the taste of the high-quality meat should be in the foreground. In the area around Verona is horsemeat non delicacy, and so there is often a Tatar horse meat ( tartare di Cavallo ) on the menu.

Since raw minced meat spoils very quickly, tartare should only be eaten on the day it is made, just like ground meat. In addition, the usual rules of kitchen hygiene are sufficient. In the commercial sector in Germany, including gastronomy, the Animal Food Hygiene Ordinance (Tier-LMHV) applies here , in which the provisions of the earlier Minced Meat Ordinance are incorporated. According to the guiding principles of the German Food Book, only egg yolks may be used for “prepared” scrap meat (beefsteak tartare, tartare, beefsteakhack) apart from seasoning ingredients.

History and etymology

Beef steak tartare with tartare sauce and watercress

The development of refrigerators and freezers towards the end of the 19th century made it possible to enjoy fresh meat all year round , which meant that raw minced meat could be offered in a variety of varieties. The beef steak tartare or tartare created by the French master chef Auguste Escoffier in 1921 became famous , in which fine raw minced beef from the hip is served with a tartare sauce based on mustard and egg. It also became popular in French-speaking Switzerland in the 1950s and can still be found on “every Valais restaurant card” today. The oldest known description of the dish to date can be found in the book Gastrosophie by Eugen von Vaerst , published in 1851 .

The dish is named after the Asian steppe people of the Tatars , who at that time were said to have ridden raw pieces of meat under their saddles and then consumed them. However, this stereotypical notion has already been declared a myth by contemporary historians, for example in 1911 in the first volume of the Cambridge Medieval History . The Turkologist and director of the Institute for Caucasica, Tatarica and Turkestan Studies Berlin-Magdeburg (ICATAT) Steffen "Mieste" Hotopp-Riecke dealt in 2011 in detail with the origin of the name minced meat tartar (or minced meat tartar ), which is widespread in Germany . According to him, it can no longer be determined [clearly]. He classified the ethnonym "Tatar" used as a secondary stereotype and a historically grown metaphor .

In many cases the name of the court and its emerging popularity with the 1876 published novel was Michael Strogoff by Jules Verne associated. Hotopp-Riecke sees “one kitchen historian after the other” repeating such claims that a dish called “Ta (r) tar” does not even appear in the novel. In fact, only "Kulbat, a kind of pie made from rice, egg yolks and beaten meat" is mentioned in the novel. Hotopp-Riecke assumes that this was in reality a cooked dish.

Reception in literature and the humanities

The playwright Carl Zuckmayer , who (after his exile in the USA) settled in Switzerland in 1957, set a literary monument to the court in his rhymed essay Das Essen : “Beefsteak tatare is almost as good as a sirloin roasted on the grill ... ". The writer Thomas Bernhard , whose regular consumption of beefsteak tartar is documented, fictionalized the “bloody meat dish” in his play The Ignorant and the Madman , published in 1972 , by depicting the food consumed by his protagonists as a “metaphorical reflection” of “destruction” and the "Thoughts of self-destruction" used.

According to the philosopher Roland Barthes , the consumption of the beefsteak tatare, especially in the context of French cuisine, is to be interpreted as “an evocative act directed against the romantic association of sensitivity and disease”: “This type of preparation contains all the germinal states of the matter: the bloody pulp, the slimy egg, the whole harmony of soft living substances, a meaningful compendium of the images of the prenatal. "

Web links

Commons : Tatar  - collection of pictures, videos and audio files

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Herings Lexicon of the Kitchen, 25th edition, page 41
  2. ↑ Herings Lexicon of the Kitchen, 25th edition, page 41
  3. ^ A b Henle, Eva, Ed .: Ricette di Osterie d'Italia: the best recipes from Italy's regions . Hallwag, 2010, ISBN 978-3-8338-2137-0 .
  4. ^ Tardi, Alan. Romancing the vine: life, love, and transformation in the vineyards of barolo . St. Martin's Press, 2013, ISBN 978-1-4668-6031-5 .
  5. ↑ Birgit Rehlender (Ed.): Guidelines 2015. German food book . Developed and approved by the German Food Book Commission at the Federal Ministry of Food and Agriculture . 4th edition 2015, revised new. B. Behr's Verlag , Hamburg 2015, ISBN 978-3-95468-234-8 , Principles for meat and meat products , LS: 2.507.1.3, p. 199–200 ( limited preview in Google Book Search).
  6. ↑ a b Carola Schnieper: The Valais for beginners . Myths, clichés and gentle irritations . 1st edition. Rothus Verlag, Solothurn 2013, ISBN 978-3-906060-10-1 , p. 48–51:  pure lust for meat .
  7. ↑ Petra Foede: How Bismarck got hold of the herring. Culinary legends. Kein & Aber, Zurich 2009, ISBN 978-3-0369-5268-0 , p. 207.
  8. ↑ Entry in Duden online , accessed on August 23, 2014.
  9. ↑ Gert v. Paczensky, Anna Dünnebier: Empty pots, full pots. The cultural history of eating and drinking. Munich 1994, p. 510.
  10. ↑ "That the Huns and Tartars ate raw meat softened by being carried under the saddle, is a mistake of the chroniclers. At the present time the mounted nomads are accustomed to put thin strips of salted raw meat on their horses' sores, before saddling them, to bring about a speedy healing. But this meat, impregnated with the sweat of the horse and reeking intolerably, is absolutely uneatable. " The Cambridge Medieval History, Volume 1, 1911, p. 340, digitized ; see also Craig S. Smith: The Raw Truth: Don't Blame the Mongols (or Their Horses) , New York Times, April 6, 2005.
  11. ↑ a b Mieste Hotopp-Riecke: The stigmatized 'other' in secondary stereotypes - 'Tatar message' and 'Hackfleisch Tartar' as German places of remembrance . In: Stephan Theilig (ed.): Historical conceptions of physicality . Interdisciplinary approaches to transformation processes in history (=  cultures - communication - contacts ). tape 5 . Frank & Timme , Berlin 2011, ISBN 978-3-86596-333-8 , pp. 107–136 ( limited preview in Google Book search).
  12. ↑ Jules Verne: Jules Verne - Collected works . 2015, ISBN 978-6-05038777-3 . (Hotopp-Riecke 2011 cites the sequence in a footnote p. 125)
  13. ↑ Christoph Gutknecht : Of stairs joke and pickle time . The craziest words in German (=  Beck'sche Reihe . No. 1845 ). Original edition. CH Beck, Munich 2008, ISBN 978-3-406-56833-6 , p. 186-187 .
  14. ↑ Jan Süselbeck : 'Strategic drinking' and other habits . Some additions on the subject of eating and drinking from Arno Schmidt , with special reference to Thomas Bernhard . In: Thomas Bernhard-Privatstiftung (Ed.): Thomas Bernhard Yearbook 2004 . Böhlau Verlag, Vienna 2005, ISBN 978-3-205-77355-9 , pp. 73-89 .
  15. ↑ Roland Barthes: Beefsteak and French fries , in: Roland Barthes: Myths of everyday life . Translated from the French by Horst Brühmann. Suhrkamp, ​​Frankfurt am Main 2010, ISBN 978-3-518-41969-4 , pp. 100-103 (French original text: Le bifteck et les frites , in: Roland Barthes: Mythologies . Editions du Seul, Paris 1957).