Costume book

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Depiction from the work Habiti antichi et moderni di tutto il mondo by Cesare Vecellio, 1589

Costume books or costume books describe in text and images the clothing fashions of individual regions and cities as well as past eras and foreign peoples.

history

Costume books emerged and remained popular in the sixteenth century. Extremely extensive costume works appeared in the nineteenth century. The first printed books on traditional costumes appeared in the second half of the 16th century. The Renaissance as the epoch of a “discovery of the world and of man”, the voyages of discovery in the 15th century, the historical research into humanism , had awakened a feeling for human individuality and aroused interest in strange, but also in one's own customs and costumes .

The first costume book was Francois Desprez's Le recuil de la diversité des habits qui sond de present en usage tant es pays d'Europe, Asie. Affrique & Isles sauvages , published by Richard Breton in Paris in 1562. This work and Ferdinando Bertelli's Omnium fere gentium nostrae aetatis habitus, nunquam antehac aediti (Venice, 1563), used costume engravings by Enea Vico as models . Other books on traditional costumes of the sixteenth century were Jost Amman's book of status, the actual description of all status on earth , with poems by Hans Sachs (Nuremberg, 1568), Hans Weigel the Elder Habitus praecipuorum populorum (Nuremberg, 1577) - in almost all and the most noble nations .. .Clothes ... to see-. Abraham de Bruyn's Omnium poene gentium imagines (Cologne, 1577) and his Imperii ac sacerdotii ornatus (1578), Jean-Jacques Boissard's Habitus variarum orbis gentium with engravings by Julius Goltzius (Mecheln, 1581), Romano Grassis, Dei veri ritratti degl 'habiti di tutte le parti del mondo (Rome, 1585), Jost Amman's spiritual costume book (1585) and his women's costume book Im Frauenzimmer Wirt reports of all sorts of beautiful clothes ... " with a Latin and a German edition by Sigmund Feyerabend (Frankfurt, 1586) and Cesare Vecellios Habiti anitichi et moderni (Venice, 1590). Another costume work by Ferdinando Bertelli in three small volumes is published in Padua from 1589 to 1596, a costume and family book in St. Gallen, 1600.

These books often had didactic rhyming captions. The forerunner of the genre can be seen in the fashion of traditional costumes in family books and in gender books . The Melemsche House Book mentioned in this context often. The house book Unico Manningas from East Frisia from 1561 shows magnificent gold jewelry and costumes. Albrecht Dürer and Hans Holbein the Younger , during his time in Basel, created costume designs. Dürer drew Nuremberg and Venetian costumes, Turks, South American objects and in 1521 Irish warriors and native women in the Netherlands. By Hans Burgkmair not only comes Augsburg Generation book , with Heinrich Vogtherr (1536, 1550), but also images of Moors and as Indians costumed Africans . Urs Graf , Hans Sebald Beham , Barthel Beham (from 1530) and Heinrich Aldegrever ( wedding dancer 1538) also created fashion representations. It was not until the twentieth century that the unprinted costume books by Matthäus Schwarz (1520–1560), with watercolors by Narziss Renner , Christoph Weiditz (from 1529 and 1531/32) and Lucas de Heere (1570–1577?) Became known, and drawings by Melchior Lorck ( around 1571). Sigmund Heldts extensive clothes book manuscript originated in the period from 1560 to 1580, Paul Hector Mair Memmorjbuch der Kley Tung vnnd a visa for the heaven and Fennlein already 1542. The Mannerist artist Jacopo Ligozzi from Verona presented the end of the century, a painted costume book on motifs printed dress works together .

Travel reports depicting the Ottoman Empire have been popular since the middle of the 16th century : by Luigi Bassano (printed 1545), Nicolas de Nicolay (Lyon, 1567) and Lambert de Vos (1574).

In Mexico around 1550 the costumes of the Codex Tudela were created. Aztecs playing ball at the Spanish Court in Seville were recorded in Christoph Weiditz's costume book. Weiditz was in Spain in 1529 and in the Netherlands in 1531/32.

  • Joost Amman: Women's Trachtenbuch , 1586–1591, title page

  • Joost Amman: Women's costume book , 1586–1591, citizen of Frankfurt

  • Ornatus mulieribus , 1640, title page

  • Ornatus mulieribus , 1640, illustration

17th century

A Danzig costume book with twenty women's costumes by the painter Anton Möller was published in 1601. In the same year Jean de Glen published a book with 104 woodcuts in Liège (mostly based on Vecellio). Giacomo Franco's book of Venetian women's costumes was published around 1610.

Wenzel Hollar's London costumes represent an artistically important costume work of the 17th century . His first costume book appeared in 1640, shortly after he moved to England in 1637: Ornatvs Mvliebris Anglicanus or The Severall Habits of English Women from the Nobilitie to the country Woman, as they are in these times, 1640 . 1643 he published his Theatrv Mvliervm immersive Varietas atq differentia.Please Habituum Foeminei sex, diuersorum Europae nationum hodierno Tempore vulgo in vsu ... . Shortly afterwards the Aula Veneris sive Varietas Foeminini Sexus, diversarum Europae Nationum, differentiag habituum, ut in quaelibet Provincia sunt apud illas nunc vsitati, ... (1644).

Around 1695 Sébastien le Clercs appeared in Paris : Divers Costumes Français du Règne de Louis XIV .

Fashion journals

Le Mercure François (1611–1648) included an annual chronicle with reports on festivals. Around 1670/80 Jean Louis Bérain published masked trains in Paris. The magazine Le Mercure galant (Paris, 1672–1723) seldom published fashion pictures (so 1678/79), but it remained a temporary phenomenon. The sequel Mercure de France (1724-1791) brought fashion reports until 1729, but was then a political magazine.

In the 18th century, single sheets or pictures were published in loose succession, such as the well-known 342 full-length fashion pictures (and 72 hat pictures) in the Gallerie des Modes et Costumes Française (1778–1787). The fashion coppers colored by Mme. Le Beau with short descriptions came from Claude-Louis Desrais , P.-T. Le Clerc , Moreau le Jeune , Francois Louis Joseph Watteau (after 1783), Augustin de Saint-Aubin (1786/87).

The first fashion periods were the French Cabinet des Modes , which was published three times a month in 1785/6: from November 1786 to 1789 as Magasin des Modes Nouvelles Françaises et Anglaises (according to Ingrid Loschek with excellent gouaches) also in Vienna and the monthly The Lady's Magazine, Or Entertaining Companion for the Fair Sex (London 1770–1837, intermittently). The Wiener-Moden-Zeitung ... appeared (with a change of title) 1816–1848.

In Erfurt a few issues of The New Fashion and Galanterie Newspaper appeared as early as 1758/59 , although fashion was not the focus of the engravings. In Germany, too, continuous development did not begin until the end of the 18th century. The Weimarer Journal des Luxus und der Moden (1786–1826), and the Leipziger Allgemeine Moden-Zeitung (1799–1903) and newspaper for the elegant world (Leipzig, 1801–1859) were long-lived publications. These fashion magazines introduced their readers to the latest clothing fashions through text, images and patterns.

However, around 1800 there were still beautiful new books on traditional costumes such as those by Sigmund Freudenberger , Franz Hegi or Gabriel Lory for Switzerland.

Individual evidence

  1. ↑ Isabel Kuhl Vecellio, 'Habiti antichi et moderni'. A costume book from the 16th century. (Cologne dissertation)  ( Page no longer available , search in web archives )  Info: The link was automatically marked as defective. Please check the link according to the instructions and then remove this notice.@1@ 2Template: Toter Link / kups.ub.uni-koeln.de  
  2. ^ Heinrich Doege (1903)
  3. ^ There are also Africans handling South American objects from Dürer.
  4. ↑ Bibliographical information at:
    • Ingrid Loschek : Reclams fashion and costume encyclopedia , Reclam, Stuttgart, articles fashion magazines , page 359 and 532ff.
    • Joanne Olian: Sixteenth Century Costume Books . In: Costume , 3, 1977, pp. 20-48;
    • Odille Blanc: Images du monde et portraits d'habits: les recueils de costume à la Renaissance In: Bulletin du bibliophile , 2, 1995, pp. 221-261.
  5. ^ Frances A. Yates : The Valois Tapestries . The Warburg Institute, London, 1959.
  6. ↑ Six examples from the Nuremberg edition with pictures by Conrad Saldörffer [1] .

literature

  • Entry costume . In: Meyers Kleines Konversationslexikon. Bibliographisches Institut, Leipzig / Vienna, 7th edition, 1908–1910, Volume 4, p. 161.
  • Entry modern times . In: Meyers Enzyklopädisches Lexikon . Bibliographical Institute, Mannheim / Vienna / Zurich 1973, Volume 17, p. 152.
  • Entry in fashion journals . In: Ingrid Loschek: Reclams Mode and Costume Lexicon . Reclam, Ditzingen 2005 (5th, updated, extended edition).
  • Moden Almanach - fashion images from four centuries: Haus Neuenburg, Cologne 1933.
Costume books
  • Heinrich Doege: The costume books of the 16th century . In: Contributions to book studies and philology: August Wilmanns dedicated to March 25, 1903 , O. Harrassowitz, Leipzig, 1903, pp. 429–444 (in the Internet archive ).
  • Ulrike Ilg: The Cultural Significance of Costume Books in Sixteenth-Century Europe . In: Catherine Richardson (Ed.): Clothing Culture, 1350-1650 . Aldershot, 2004, pages 29-47.
  • Gabriele Mentges: Vestimentary Mapping: Traditional Costume Books and Traditional Costume Manuscripts of the 16th Century . In: Waffen- und Costumekunde , 46, No. 1, 2004, pages 19–36.
  • Odile Blanc: Ethnologie et merveille dans quelques livres de costumes français . In: Marie F. Viallon (ed.): Parâitre et se vêtir au XVIe siècle , Université de Saint-Etienne, 2006.
  • Gabriele Mentges: Pour une approche renouvelée des recueils de costumes de la Renaissance. In: Apparence (s) [online], No. 1, 2007. [2] Mentges gives a comprehensive list of the secondary literature.
Pattern books
  • Juan de Alcega: Libro de geometria, practica y traça . Madrid 1589. 1st edition: 1569.
  • Facsimile: JL Nevinson (Ed.): Juan de Alcega Tailor's Pattern Book 1589 . Bedfors 1979.
    • Fritz Saxl : Costume and Festivals of Milanese Society under Spanish Rule . Annual Italian Lecture of the British Academy. London 1936.
    • Saxl's essay also translated into: Il libro del sarto della Fondazione Querini Stampalia di Venezia, 1987.
  • Benoît Boullay: Le Tailleur sincère . Paris 1671.
fashion magazines
  • Erika Thiel: artist and fashion . Henschel, Berlin (GDR), 1979.

Web links

Commons : Cesare Vecellio  - collection of images, videos and audio files
Wikisource: Das Frauen-Trachtenbuch  - Sources and full texts